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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-12-2018 01:21 PM
fl0w3n When it comes to Ruff Stuff vs WFO, it looks like their arms are pretty much the same, but Ruff Stuff has rod ends on frame side and factory rubber bushings on axle side. WFO looks like a Johnny joint or something on frame side, but doesn’t say if it reuses factory rubber bushings at axle side.

There’s a big price difference, but by the time you complete the Ruff Stuff to make it comparable to WFO kit,, I’m guessing it’ll basically be the same price as the WFO.

Am I missing any other significant difference? Does the factory bushings at the axle side hold up well, or can those be swapped out for something better? Does the F250/350 05+ D60 come with the 1550 joints, or is that only the “super” F450/550 D60?
05-22-2018 04:07 AM
Van_Diesel I also feel that the 05+ super duty is the best option. Lets look at what you have listed first
1. The chevy is a passenger side drop. The duramax drive line is offset towards the passenger side. You will need to fit exhaust, drive shaft, T case shifter and leaf spring hanger all in a tight space. Between northwest fab and ORD you can get any adapter and speed sensor modification needed to use the 205.
2. The 77-79 HP dana 60 is 40 years old expensive to purchase ($1000-1200) . It will need to be rebuilt , the brakes modified to except the duramax rotors and calipers. you can also add the ABS speed sensor. You will have $2000 - $2500 in just the axle alone. You can keep the 261 just install a SYE from northwest fab and you can use a 1350 CV joint flange.

Now for the 05+ super duty. I just finished installing one in an express van and it is a lot easier than any of your other options. I used all the factory mounts and components including the factory ford coil spring frame brackets. As long as you keep it at 6" or less of lift you can keep all of the ford steering components. The only thing I had to modify is I had to shorten the factory drag link and re-thread. I even kept the factory radius arms and just fabricated my own frame mounts. You also keep the factory GM ABS speed sensor. Just pull the ford unit and install the GM one. I also used a 261 since I had a known good low mileage unit. I installed the pump rub kit and the SYE kit. The only down side to this swap is the wider axle width and 8x170 lug nut spacing. You will need to install 1.5" spacer/adapters on your stock rear axle.
So to give you an example of the cost. Axle with spring mounts $600, half sheet 1/4 steel $150, pitman arm $100, New coil springs $200, rear axle spacers $100 and the SYE from Northwest fab is $480 with the yoke. This is the basic cost for the components. Your cost may very depending on how mild or wild you go. If you search Ruff stuff, WFO, Northwest Fab and ORD you can get everything you would need for the install.
Good luck.
05-21-2018 04:19 PM
purduecrew
Quote:
Originally Posted by fl0w3n View Post
I guess I was just looking for a easier and simplistic route going with leafs and ORDs brackets. Tried and true. Coilovers and radius arms is wayyyy more than this bare bones truck deserves.

I also figured if stuff did get extreme, the leafs are going to take me further than the stock ford geometry radius arms.

There's a site that cuts and ships Tims kit for about 12-1400 bucks, I don't remember exactly. I guess I'm back to that route, and getting a new welder and practicing up...

On second look, does the WFO kit come all pre welded? Just the frame plate, shock towers, and track arm need to be welded to the frame?
I feel your pain. I was in the same boat. Don't have the shop or the proper welder. I truly lucked out finding a good friend who gave up a LOT of his time to help me with my truck. All in all, WFO makes a great kit, higher price though. Tim's looks better, but weighs a ton more and you gotta do a lot of welding. It is also however more servicable and over engineered.

All that being said, if you can swing it, I would do WFO kit to minimize your welding and see if you can find someone to help you do the minimal welding that will be needed.
05-21-2018 03:35 PM
wahlstrom1 If you want to do it on the cheap, grab an 05'+ ford 60 and RuffStuffs radius arm kit. Use the factory coil buckets and just bolt them to the frame. All you'll have to fab is the upper track bar bracket.
05-21-2018 11:41 AM
fl0w3n I'm reconsidering the WFO kit now, I can probably manage getting the frame plates and shock towers on.

I've researched 05+ 60s with leafs, not really possible with how close the diff is to the C on the driver side.
05-21-2018 08:45 AM
YotaAtieToo Go leafs then, it can't be that hard to strip the radius arm brackets off.
05-20-2018 11:46 PM
fl0w3n I guess I was just looking for a easier and simplistic route going with leafs and ORDs brackets. Tried and true. Coilovers and radius arms is wayyyy more than this bare bones truck deserves.

I also figured if stuff did get extreme, the leafs are going to take me further than the stock ford geometry radius arms.

There's a site that cuts and ships Tims kit for about 12-1400 bucks, I don't remember exactly. I guess I'm back to that route, and getting a new welder and practicing up...

On second look, does the WFO kit come all pre welded? Just the frame plate, shock towers, and track arm need to be welded to the frame?
05-20-2018 12:26 PM
sterlingfire I'm with @YotaAtieToo, can the kingpin axle and go 05+sd60. You don't need Tim's kit to make it work. Building a nice set of radius arms from tube is easy peasy. Plus the kingpin axles are outdated, and out performed by the new gen of 60's. You'll always have water intrusion into your wheel bearings on the older axles, and have to service them after every water crossing. The newer axle will make it easier to get tone rings hooked up as well if you must keep abs. Drop an np241 in, or keep your 261. You should be able to sell your Chevy 60 and 205 to get 3/4 of the way to getting the sd60 built and installed. I have a 91 ford 60 and hate it. When i build my new beater it's getting a sd60 no ifs ands or buts. Never again will i own a kingpin axle. They're not worth the money or the headache of constant maintenance. Plus i can get sd60 for around 200 complete with less than 100k on it.
05-20-2018 10:58 AM
YotaAtieToo
Quote:
Originally Posted by fl0w3n View Post
I was real confused there for a second, my name is Trevor. I didn't mean WFO Trevor, I meant Tim from here on Pirate, the "multipurpose duramax" guy.

So it seems like you're really leaning away from my Chevy 60/205 combo by suggesting all these Ford axles... just curious what issues do you see with the Chevy setup
Nothing really wrong with the Chevy 60, it's just out dated and the wrong drop. Have you looked to see if a pass drop is even possible?

What about width, I feel like the gm 60 will be kinda narrow under a late model Chevy.
05-20-2018 07:50 AM
fl0w3n
Quote:
Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo View Post
It's Trevor

You could always strip the radius arm stuff off and go with leafs.

Or get a 99-04 superduty axle.

The 78-79 axles are getting super rare and insanely overpriced.
I was real confused there for a second, my name is Trevor. I didn't mean WFO Trevor, I meant Tim from here on Pirate, the "multipurpose duramax" guy.

So it seems like you're really leaning away from my Chevy 60/205 combo by suggesting all these Ford axles... just curious what issues do you see with the Chevy setup
05-19-2018 11:48 PM
YotaAtieToo
Quote:
Originally Posted by fl0w3n View Post
Don't have the welding skill to safely do that, and not paying someone to do it. Otherwise I would use Tims kit. Plus I'm looking at $2,600 for the kit, another $1k for coilovers, not including what ever welding needed.

I should be all in with the leafs setup/axle/etc for about the price of just the wfo kit and coil overs. Not putting down the kit at all, it's a bitchen setup.

If I was confident I could weld it up myself and not risk killing my family or strangers on the road, I would strongly consider Tims kit.
It's Trevor

You could always strip the radius arm stuff off and go with leafs.

Or get a 99-04 superduty axle.

The 78-79 axles are getting super rare and insanely overpriced.
05-19-2018 10:45 PM
fl0w3n
Quote:
Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo View Post
Neither, get an 05+ Ford 60. Wfo makes a kit to put them in duramax's
Don't have the welding skill to safely do that, and not paying someone to do it. Otherwise I would use Tims kit. Plus I'm looking at $2,600 for the kit, another $1k for coilovers, not including what ever welding needed.

I should be all in with the leafs setup/axle/etc for about the price of just the wfo kit and coil overs. Not putting down the kit at all, it's a bitchen setup.

If I was confident I could weld it up myself and not risk killing my family or strangers on the road, I would strongly consider Tims kit.
05-19-2018 10:27 PM
YotaAtieToo Neither, get an 05+ Ford 60. Wfo makes a kit to put them in duramax's
05-19-2018 10:12 PM
fl0w3n
Chevy vs Ford 60, 205 vs 261hd

I'm still collecting parts and mentally planning for a SAS on my Duramax, and I've been tossing back and forth between a Chevy 60 and 205 (which I already have), and a 78-79 Ford 60 and keeping the floor shift 261hd.

This is going to be on leafs, using ORDs new mounts for GMT800 8lugs - hence the axle choices. It's a crew cab short bed manual truck, I don't see getting into extreme rock crawling with it... but you never know. I'm more interested in just a solid all around go anywhere adventure truck. Planning on 37" tires

The pros/cons of the Chevy 60/205
- already have the axle, 4.56s, crossover arm, and modified/twin stick 205
- 205 can get a doubler/magnum/eco box in the future if needed or wanted
- probably more expensive to build up, need a 29 spline input for 205 + adapter ring + vss machining
- only big brake option is the dodge rotor/caliper, more expensive than big brakes on the Ford axle by keeping the 2500hd calipers
- no option for keeping tone ring and abs
- not sure I really need a twin stick 205 for my application, or 3 shifters in the floor for this rig... but already have it
- less gearing than the 261
- some of the Duramax forum guys say the 205 is weak and won't hold up with the torque and low gearing, I'm assuming the comments come from sled pull trucks that have tried them and cracked cases

The pros/cons of Ford 60/261
- can keep the 261 and just do a pump rub kit and save $$ on adapters/input
- more "bolt in", don't need to cut up floor or mess with cross members
- big brakes can reuse a lot of the parts off the current ifs
- tone ring to keep abs
- need to scrap current process on collecting parts and start all over
- probably need gears for the 60 too


Would like to get input on which direction to go, and probably things I haven't thought of

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