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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-16-2019 06:01 PM
zachwrench nice and tight cage I dig it
05-16-2019 12:56 PM
shomsky462 School has been keeping me crazy busy as usual.

Finished up the cage over the cab. Its really tight over the cab, touching in some areas. Painted it by rolling on rustoleum hammered finish (black).

Tig welding this thing had me in some crazy positions, definitely some good practice.



02-21-2019 09:25 PM
shomsky462
Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Truck View Post

If you're going DSP...
Run your sub to 100-120hz. 18db slope. Solid and tight.
Bring your midbass in at 100hz to 2500hz 18db slope.
Tweets at 2500 and up 18db

Passive, set your high pass around 100-120 and experiment from there.

I'm taking the TWK88 out soon. EZ DSP that I'll be selling on DIYMA.

Nice, solid work on your rig.

Keep the build going....
I dont know if ill be running a DSP or not. Honestly I never even considered it until you mentioned it. Seems expensive and time consuming, but what isnt when you want to do it right? I will definitely research it more and see if its the direction I want to go.

I very much appreciate the advice. Your builds/work is insane and quite inspiring. I cant believe I havent seen any of it before. I definitely planned to make a carbon dash panel(s). It mostly depends on how much time I want to spend on making the tooling. Realistically I was thinking of making a shittier version of what you got going. The organic contours of the panels are what have held me up mostly.

Anyways, thanks for the advice and compliments!

*edit: forgot to ask you... are your carbon parts primarily wet layups or pre-preg?
02-21-2019 02:56 AM
Green Truck Couple old build threads.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...storation.html

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...ash-panel.html

If you're going DSP...
Run your sub to 100-120hz. 18db slope. Solid and tight.
Bring your midbass in at 100hz to 2500hz 18db slope.
Tweets at 2500 and up 18db

Passive, set your high pass around 100-120 and experiment from there.

I'm taking the TWK88 out soon. EZ DSP that I'll be selling on DIYMA.

Nice, solid work on your rig.

Keep the build going....
02-20-2019 11:42 PM
shomsky462
Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Truck View Post
Killer build. The audio is very similar to mine.
https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...vo-2410-a.html

Now you gotta make a carbon dash panel.
That is some killer detail put into your box and system! Looks amazing, very cool. I swear I didnt see this previously before I made mine. I had many different designs in mind before I settled on this and its crazy to see how similar ours are! I for sure would have cut out the hump in the back wall like you did, had I have known that I was going to try and put a full 12" sub right there. But I really didnt want do any more body/sheet metal work.

Couple of questions for you:
Do you have more of a buildup of your truck and/or system?
Did you lay that carbon up yourself and how?
Where did you get that dash topper?
02-19-2019 08:30 PM
Green Truck Killer build. The audio is very similar to mine.
https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...vo-2410-a.html

Now you gotta make a carbon dash panel.
02-18-2019 12:02 PM
shomsky462 School continues to kick my ass. But at least I get to make carbon fiber stuff if I want/have time.

I made some carbon fiber plates to mount the amplifiers. Isolated them from the rear wall of the cab with some rubber feet made for big speaker cabinets I got on amazon for about $5 (for 8). This was done in hopes of reducing the amount of vibration the amps see. Both sides of the mounting hardware has stainless bonded sealing washers as well.

Amps are:
- Alpine MRV-F300 4 channel. For the speakers/tweaters.
- Alpine MRV-M500 mono. For the sub.

Pics of the passenger side: (The driver side looks identical)




02-18-2019 11:50 AM
shomsky462
Quote:
Originally Posted by byron4 View Post
very clean looking truck; you're getting close to finishing- we're all excited to see the first dents!
Thanks. I'm excited to smash it as well. Its closer but still a lot of work to be done and lots of money to be spent.
02-07-2019 01:31 PM
byron4 very clean looking truck; you're getting close to finishing- we're all excited to see the first dents!
01-27-2019 01:31 PM
shomsky462 School has been keeping me busy and stressed as usual. However I managed to make some time to build a sub woofer box. The original plan was to put a shallow mount 10" behind the driver seat because space is incredibly limited behind the seats. Then I decided I could probably squeeze a 12" shallow mount in there somewhere. I ordered the wrong sub (I ordered a 2 ohm dual voice coil, instead of a 4 ohm), after lots of searching and pricing amps, subs, etc, I decided on a somewhat regular mounting depth 12" sub.

I knew it wasnt going to fit behind the seat and didnt really want the face of the sub almost touching the back of the seat anyways. So I decided it was going to directly in the center for an even better hearing loss experience. This way I will also be able to brand match the entire stereo, not that it really matters.

I knew space was going to be really tight and the box needed to at least have about .6 ft^3 minimum. After taking a million measurements I drew the box up in Solidworks to see what the volume was going to be and to see if the sub would even fit in the box and not contact the back.

Since the box was such a strange shape it has lots of weird angles so I used the Solidworks drawing to get all the measurements and angles and just hoped that it would actually go together. Out come the Skillsaw (since I dont have a table saw) and I just started going for it. Glued, screwed, sanded, sealed, and wrapped in some vinyl I got at a local fabric/upholstery store.

This was the first sub box Ive made. came out pretty decent I think and Ill have to wait a while to see how its going to sound. I have a feeling this sub is going to pound the shit out of this tiny single cab.

If anybody has any recommendations or advice concerning car audio please let me know. Im just going off of what Ive researched from the interwebs.

Tech Specs:


Box: 1/2" MDF inside volume: .665 ft^3 glued, screwed, sealed(caulked inside corners),
wrapped with vinyl. Mounting: Tee-nuts are secured on the
inside of the box, bolts go through the tranny tunnel from
underneath with a series of rubber washers/o-rings to seal the
holes completely and to cut down on vibration

Sub: Alpine S-W12D4 12" 600 watt RMS 4ohm dual voice coil.
It will be powered by an Alpine mono amp 500 watt RMS at 2ohms





01-27-2019 12:44 PM
shomsky462
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grronk View Post
Holy cow that interior is gonna be super nice! Id be afraid of getting mud in there! I might have to use some of that raptor stuff in my cab though
Thanks. I definitely went a little overboard on the interior but I think it should be worth it in the end.

The Raptor liner was fairly easy to shoot. It is extremely tough and cures super hard.
01-21-2019 02:54 PM
Grronk Holy cow that interior is gonna be super nice! Id be afraid of getting mud in there! I might have to use some of that raptor stuff in my cab though
01-08-2019 09:01 PM
shomsky462 Ive been working on the cab stuff here and there when I have a break from school.

I made some carbon fiber trans tunnel and door panels then clear coated them. I remade the window cranks. Put some Alpine speakers and tweeters in the doors.

The trans shifter boot was purchased from JB fabrication. No one seems to make any twin sticker shifter boots that would allow a lot of forward and backwards travel so I decided to make it myself. Sewed up some vinyl, cut some stainless plate, and that black strip around each stainless plate is 'door edge gaurd' from autozone.

The roof got a full treatment of sound deadener, some 1/2" foam. then a pirate flag

Put the rear window in. That thing was a major pain in the ass.

The one piece rear window is 1/4" Lexan. I took the frame apart, caulked the groove, flexed the Lexan in, and screwed the frame back together. Then I tinted the window with some 15% tint.

I had a new windshield installed professionally. I dont think I would have been able to do that myself.














09-10-2018 10:04 PM
shomsky462
Quote:
Originally Posted by toyjoeta View Post
Looks great, donít want it to pretty then youíll never want to push it. Keep up the good work.
Thanks man.

Ill take some pretty pictures before it inevitably becomes a raisin and eventually, probably a buggy. It was a good learning experience, but I'd probably hit it with the ol scuff and shoot next time.
09-10-2018 04:53 PM
toyjoeta Looks great, donít want it to pretty then youíll never want to push it. Keep up the good work.
09-10-2018 11:40 AM
shomsky462 Painted the truck this weekend. Its the original color, Toyota beige 464. Went with a single stage paint out of a harbor freight spray gun. Cost me $130 for the quart of paint, some reducer and activator. Paint brand is Nason.

A LOT of prep lead up to this, just so I can go smash it on some rocks eventually. This is the first time I've painted any vehicle or just anything with a gun. I could have done way more, but I had to draw the line somewhere. Honestly I should have done less to save a lot of time.

It came out pretty decent for a half assed makeshift paintbooth in the garage, youtube videos guiding me through this process and just plain guessing. Theres dust in it everywhere if you look close but oh well. Thats kind of how I expected it to be. It probably didnt help that the girlfriend decided she wanted to come in and out of the garage to do about 4 loads of laundry WHILE I was painting. But of course Im the asshole for telling her not to do that.







09-05-2018 10:22 AM
rugburn Nice to see you using an in line filter on the Schutze gun....
09-02-2018 10:24 AM
the_white_shadow
Quote:
Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo View Post
That's because most people want thier wipers to work and be able to open thier hood I made mine so tight that I have to cut the hood to open it all the way.
I understand why people have to do it, but that doesnt mean it doesnt still look like ass.
09-02-2018 01:34 AM
YotaAtieToo
Quote:
Originally Posted by the_white_shadow View Post
Thats one of the best windshield cross bars i have ever seen. Most stick out waaay far away and look like ass. Slick work.
That's because most people want thier wipers to work and be able to open thier hood I made mine so tight that I have to cut the hood to open it all the way.
09-01-2018 09:22 PM
dfowlkes
Quote:
Originally Posted by shomsky462 View Post
2" x .250 wall US DOM. Its hard shit. It broke the follower on someones bender then my local steel supplier/fabricator said it was a bitch to bend it only 15 degrees.
nice, that ought to be plenty strong then. I learned the hard way why a bent upper link is a bad idea
08-31-2018 11:31 AM
shomsky462 Raptor lined the interior of the cab today. Im most likely going to carpet the floor and possibly leave the tranny tunnel sides exposed.

The raptor liner is pretty easy to use. I used a full 4 liter kit to make sure it was thick, 2 heavy coats. Apparently different PSI's will provide different textures. I set it at 45 PSI and went for it. Turned out great.





08-30-2018 09:20 PM
shomsky462
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfowlkes View Post
What material is the upper link?
2" x .250 wall US DOM. Its hard shit. It broke the follower on someones bender then my local steel supplier/fabricator said it was a bitch to bend it only 15 degrees.
08-30-2018 04:20 PM
dfowlkes What material is the upper link?
08-30-2018 05:39 AM
pennsylvaniaboy Top notch notching.....
08-28-2018 05:28 PM
Trevorg6 Awesome build, looking forward to seeing it complete.
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