|01-31-2020 02:36 PM|
My advice is to make sure you have a good amount of room around the trans/transfer-case/bell housing etc. With enough space to take the trans out and down if you need to. Mine is probably a little too tight in areas.
And if you want to put in a sub similar to where mine is placed, or just want more room for storage or an ammo box or something, just cut out that lump in the back wall and make the entire back wall flush.
|01-31-2020 01:32 PM|
|bump530||Bad ass build man. I like the tunnel. I need to do something like that with mine.|
|01-30-2020 11:30 PM|
This is one of the coolest live builds I've ever read.Nicely written,and fantastic work!
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|01-30-2020 02:49 PM|
It sounds kind of dumb but since there is such little original Toyota left of the entire truck I wanted to leave some kind of old rusty piece in tact to "display" the original frame. I'm not concerned about the strength of the cross member given the other tube work and such that surrounds that area.
I mean how can it be a first gen Toyota build without some kind of nasty rust issue going on.
|01-29-2020 01:04 PM|
all this awesome work and you leave this in there?
|01-22-2020 05:26 PM|
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|01-21-2020 10:36 PM|
|01-21-2020 08:08 PM|
When I went to put the passenger side axle shaft in it was contacting the inside of the ARB, so it needed to be trimmed down about 1/8". I could have just used a cut off wheel or something like that (didnt want to destroy a bandsaw blade, if it would even cut it). My initial idea was to use a manual lathe at school but couldnt find a lathe with a big enough through spindle. My friend wanted to get some more experience on a fancy cnc lathe so we chucked it up on a Hass TL, he did some quick programming and boom it was done. Horrendously unnecessary, but it was a cool learning experience and pretty easy.
Im currently working on getting all the wiring sorted (when I get a chance between school stuff).
Can anyone recommend a good brand of ARB style toggle switches that wont break the bank? I will be making a switch panel here real soon... and have almost no idea what I'm doing.
Some shots of the batteries fully mounted and the axle shaft being trimmed/faced on the TL:
|01-18-2020 10:16 AM|
The pattern looks good, excellent - nicely done. Having set up quite a few third members I know what a PIA they can be.
I really appreciate your talents sir - makes me strive harder on my '83. Keep up the good work and be encouraged. I've subscribed.
|01-07-2020 01:55 PM|
Still working on things here and there.
Made some battery boxes, one for an optima, one for a full throttle. Both are group 34. They'll go behind the cab flanking the gas tank.
Mounted a small Rigid light bar on the front I got for fairly cheap.
Up next is to mount the batteries and battery boxes, and run some 1/0 wire to the engine bay and some 4 gauge into the cab to the amps. Then work on getting the dash panel bent. I'm going to need to find a brake at school that can do some 20 ga. stainless, 54" wide.
I was setting up the gears for the rear 14 bolt. Never done it before, Just followed the 14 bolt gear install write up on here. Seemed to go OK besides everything being huge and heavy and all the bolts needing a ton of torque. Also the passenger side axle shaft needs to be trimmed down about an 1/8" so hopefully I can find a lathe at school to do it nicely or Ill have to find another method. Had to grind down the inside of the diff (ribs that stiffen the carrier bearing journal right by where the cap bolts go in) a little to clear the ARB carrier.
Please feel free to critique the gear mesh pattern. The pics below show the current pattern with .007" backlash.
|12-20-2019 03:15 PM|
I've been working on some things here and there. Finally had some time to cut out the carbon panel I made and clear coat it. Incredibly unnecessary, but it was more of an experiment than anything. Chopped fiber comes out looking pretty cool I think. Might have to consider something like this for the top of the dash...
Also I whipped up this Christmas present for someone thats into bikes.
|12-20-2019 03:06 PM|
|12-18-2019 08:36 AM|
|Stevsie||I wish half the work i do was as clean as yours|
|11-30-2019 05:31 PM|
Got some little things done. Time is scarce. Money is scarcerer.
I got this pretty neat tool that uses wire to clamp hose of any size and it comes out really clean! Wish I had it earlier for all the exhaust wrap and other various hoses etc.
Those red standoff/line isolators were about $1. they were on the clearance section of anplumbing.com so I got a few of them. looks clean and helped me standoff the fuel lines from rubbing on the sharp edges of the fuel tank, as well as isolating the pass. side rear brake line so its not just flopping around.
|11-20-2019 12:58 PM|
|shomsky462||How important is a sway bar (sway bars) with this application? Should I think about incorporating one on the front? rear? How much would it matter?|
|11-01-2019 11:56 AM|
This build is amazing. So good to still see this level of quality on here.
@94toytruck check this shit out!
|11-01-2019 11:33 AM|
The next biggest obstacle is the dash and wiring, I have the materials, just need the time.
The next biggest money pit items are driveshafts and ring and pinions. I have a set of ARB's for the front and rear and a compressor but need new ring and pinions installed.
|11-01-2019 10:27 AM|
|]4RunnerKid[||damn dude, nice work on that exhaust. when's the maiden voyage?|
|10-31-2019 11:18 PM|
Downtubes to the "Y" are 2.25" aluminized steel. After the "Y" it goes into 2.5" aluminized steel then an 8" flex pipe, then a 3-bolt flange. After the flange there is a 2.5" in/out cal legal cat. Immediately after the cat it goes into 3" aluminized 400 series stainless steel, then to a 14" magnaflow muffler. The steel tubing was painted with rustoleum high heat spray paint.
I still need to make the turnout right after the muffler and hang/mount it there as well.
Parts and pieces:
Muffler: MagnaFlow 14419 Exhaust Muffler
Catalytic converter: Walker 80906 CalCat Pre-OBDII Universal Catalytic Converter
V-bands: EVIL ENERGY 3 Inch Stainless Steel Exhaust V Band Clamp Male Female Flange
Flex-pipe: RP Remarkable Power, RK7546-2.5" x 8" Heavy Duty Stainless Steel Exhaust Flex Pipe 12" OL
Wrap: Design Engineering 010123 2" x 25' Pipe Wrap Kit with 4 Locking Ties - Titanium
Locking ties: SunplusTrade 100pcs 11.8 Inches Stainless Steel Exhaust Wrap Multi-Purpose Locking Cable Metal Zip Ties
o2 Sensor bung: Vibrant 11105 Oxygen Sensor Weld Bung
Rubber mounts: Energy Suspension 9.8101G SHOCK TOWER GROMMETS
|10-29-2019 04:20 PM|
Ive been chippin away at things here and there on the truck. Ill get some more pics up later of the current progress with more technical info of what I used etc.
-Exhaust is almost completely done, I just have to make the final turn down/out after the muffler and hang it in one more spot.
-Rear brake calipers turned out to be a 7/16" banjo bolt, so I had to re-do the rear lines to have the appropriate sized banjos on them. After that brake plumbing will be complete.
-Fuel plumbing is done.
-Shoulder harness bar attached and bolted through the cab, just needs to be welded to the exterior tube then cleaned up a bit.
Lots of things to finish up but my next big focus will be the dash and wiring.
I got a big piece of stainless sheetmetal at a swap meet for $5 so Ill most likely be using that for the dash and possibly use it as a mold to make a carbon fiber dash...
This rounded brake/roll/bend I have planned seems like it wont be easy to do without going to great lengths to get it done.
Front cover plate that will go underneath the frame in the front, under the winch and radiator:
Made it out of some .095" Aluminum, used it as a mold for some chopped carbon fiber. Ill cut it out, sand it and clear coat it. Should come out looking pretty cool. The dimples face down for drainage reasons.
|09-19-2019 03:07 PM|
|09-19-2019 12:17 PM|
Upper radiator mount done. Radiator is fully mounted. The shiny part is stainless, the black part is some 2" rectangular tube I cut then dimpled.
School starts today so the build is going to slow down but ill still be chipping away at it. I have a long list of smaller things I can take care of here and there when I get the chance.
The next major obstacle will be the dash and wiring. Ive decided to make a new dash, the stock dash is trashed and would take too much effort to reconfigure how I need it. I wont be using any of the vents or any stock gauges, switches etc. The plan, for now, is to make a simple, flat, 2-bend, aluminum dash, with gauges in the center.
|09-11-2019 06:24 PM|
I hope what he told me is true. Ive talked with him before about this build and hes helped me with a few things.
But theres no way the stock downpipes to the cat are going to fit.
Theres also another big potential problem... a manual behind this motor.
|09-11-2019 06:29 AM|
|Chkn||Unless you know a ref and can bribe him, you won't be able to pass smog with that exhaust. You have to have unmodified OE exhaust from the exhaust manifold to the catalyst. After that it's fair game.|
|09-11-2019 12:45 AM|
Downpipes are 2.25" and they Y into a 2.5" then there is an 8" flex pipe then a 3 bolt flange.
After the flange there will be a california legal catalytic converter, 2.5" in/out then the plan is to go to 3" after the cat and a magnaflow 14" muffler somewhere above the axle then dump. Im doing what I hope will be acceptable to pass a referee.
The driver side down pipe needed to be routed around a lot of things, the upper link, clutch slave, oil pan, etc.
I made up some heat shields for the clutch slave and the gas tank. Ill probably make another under the passenger floor and the Y. The downpipes are going to get wrapped all the way to the flex pipe.
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