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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-24-2018 12:32 PM
Diesel_Brad My bad I must have read it wrong
07-23-2018 09:41 PM
gregj50
Quote:
Originally Posted by [486] View Post
'along the length of the tube' is pretty clear to me, maybe it seems like I'm saying to scab on weld on the unbent portion? w/e






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
07-23-2018 08:45 PM
Beat95YJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad View Post
OK, thats fine but thats not what you originally said.
His post has not been edited.
07-23-2018 08:38 PM
[486]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad View Post
OK, thats fine but thats not what you originally said.
rofl what
look at the shit you quoted. What's it say, exactly that which I copy/pasted out of it.
07-23-2018 08:03 PM
Diesel_Brad
Quote:
Originally Posted by [486] View Post
'along the length of the tube' is pretty clear to me, maybe it seems like I'm saying to scab on weld on the unbent portion? w/e
OK, thats fine but thats not what you originally said.


I am working on getting a shaft and collars made to fit the carrier caps
07-23-2018 08:06 AM
[486] 'along the length of the tube' is pretty clear to me, maybe it seems like I'm saying to scab on weld on the unbent portion? w/e
07-23-2018 07:33 AM
SLOWPOKE693 180* from the bend
07-23-2018 06:14 AM
Diesel_Brad
Quote:
Originally Posted by [486] View Post
reread the quote you quoted
so 90*?
07-22-2018 06:35 PM
[486]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad View Post
Parellel or 90* to the tube?
reread the quote you quoted
07-22-2018 06:17 PM
Diesel_Brad
Quote:
Originally Posted by [486] View Post
weld some real hot beads along the high side of the bend on the tube, like 1/8" 7018 at 170a or so, along the length of the tube

they'll pull that side of the tube shorter and the bend out of it
Parellel or 90* to the tube?
07-22-2018 06:02 PM
[486]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad View Post
Will that brittle the metal?
low carbon steel does not quench

ETA: run a file over it afterwords, if it cuts the same it's the same hardness, if it is hardened, nbd, just reheat it to where a cleaned off (with a flapper wheel) section turns dark blue.
07-22-2018 02:05 PM
Beat95YJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad View Post
Will that brittle the metal?
A little, but I have seen it done without any failures afterwards.
07-22-2018 01:57 PM
Diesel_Brad
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beat95YJ View Post
Yes. You can speed up the process by putting a cold wet towel on the hot area to get it to shrink faster.
Will that brittle the metal?
07-22-2018 01:37 PM
Beat95YJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad View Post
Yes. You can speed up the process by putting a cold wet towel on the hot area to get it to shrink faster.
07-22-2018 01:31 PM
Diesel_Brad
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beat95YJ View Post
Weld or use a torch/wet rag.
Something like this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqT0hWfXbVg
07-22-2018 09:31 AM
Beat95YJ Weld or use a torch/wet rag.
07-22-2018 07:56 AM
Diesel_Brad Thanks for the input guys. I was not sure if 5/16 was a lot or not. And in reality There has to be A LOT of axle that are out there bent that are still in use.

I was thinking about straightening like mentioned in a press, but I dont have the pucks or access to any machinery to make them with any real precision
07-22-2018 01:55 AM
Dr.Danger 5/16" isn't all that much, and you could weld to get it to pull back, but you might make it worse or have a hard time seeing where to put it without a proper truing bar set. The set consists of a long, straight steel bar and two round pieces with holes in the middle for the bar to pass through. The two round pieces are bolted in where your carrier bearings ride, and you can tell how far off it is by looking at the bar and where it comes out of the ends of the tube.

From there, hyraulic power and some sort of frame are used to push and pull things back into place, and maybe some welding. Realistically, if you ever weld your tubes to the diff housing, you should probably have this done.

A lot of racers and wheelers are probably rolling around on axles that are bent to some degree. You try to weld the tubes evenly to prevent that, but years of abuse, heavy loading, wheeling, etc. makes things move. To me if it's visible, it ought to go to a shop with the tools that I don't have. If you have some machining equipment you could probably turn some pucks and find a straight bar to make your own truing kit.
07-22-2018 12:06 AM
[486] weld some real hot beads along the high side of the bend on the tube, like 1/8" 7018 at 170a or so, along the length of the tube

they'll pull that side of the tube shorter and the bend out of it
07-21-2018 11:01 PM
billybob_81067 I straightened one once that was bent pretty badly. Machined up some pucks to fit the ends of the axle tubes and also where the diff bearings mount. had a 1" or 1.25" hole in each puck. Then I slid a shaft of the same diameter into the end and used a hydraulic press to press the housing straight until I could slide the shaft all the way through all 4 pucks. Dunno how "hobbyist" that is to you, but that's the kind of shit I'm used to.
07-21-2018 08:29 PM
Diesel_Brad
bent axle housing

Hey guys, I'm working on converting a 97 F250 to 4wd.

I picked up a wrecked 95 F350 last year and parted it. It hit a car with the right front tire shearing the spring center pin off, kinking the frame and (now I find out, bending the axle 5/16")

Does anyone have a hobbiest way of straightening the housing or a suggestion of a local show in NE PA or Western NJ that can straighten it?

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