|09-11-2019 05:24 PM|
I hope what he told me is true. Ive talked with him before about this build and hes helped me with a few things.
But theres no way the stock downpipes to the cat are going to fit.
Theres also another big potential problem... a manual behind this motor.
|09-11-2019 05:29 AM|
|Chkn||Unless you know a ref and can bribe him, you won't be able to pass smog with that exhaust. You have to have unmodified OE exhaust from the exhaust manifold to the catalyst. After that it's fair game.|
|09-10-2019 11:45 PM|
Downpipes are 2.25" and they Y into a 2.5" then there is an 8" flex pipe then a 3 bolt flange.
After the flange there will be a california legal catalytic converter, 2.5" in/out then the plan is to go to 3" after the cat and a magnaflow 14" muffler somewhere above the axle then dump. Im doing what I hope will be acceptable to pass a referee.
The driver side down pipe needed to be routed around a lot of things, the upper link, clutch slave, oil pan, etc.
I made up some heat shields for the clutch slave and the gas tank. Ill probably make another under the passenger floor and the Y. The downpipes are going to get wrapped all the way to the flex pipe.
|09-10-2019 11:14 PM|
|09-07-2019 09:49 PM|
|Green Truck||Nice fab work. Keep the pictures flowing....|
|09-07-2019 08:34 PM|
|09-06-2019 08:52 AM|
|]4RunnerKid[||you're making solid progress on this thing, nice work. let me know if you want to plan a trip once it's trail ready|
|09-05-2019 09:46 PM|
|Rubirunner85||Fab work is nice! What spring pack is that?|
|09-05-2019 07:55 AM|
Amazing tig work Ryan!
Trucks coming along great!
If you ever need an extra set of hands give me a call.
|08-30-2019 11:46 AM|
|Provience||looks nice as always|
|08-30-2019 11:18 AM|
I have plans to make a small bed in the back, got the steel, wood and everything but Im going to focus my efforts on the things that are going to make it go.
Next up is the fuel tank, mounting and plumbing.
The fuel tank obviously couldnt interfere with the driveshaft and I wanted the filler neck to be somewhat consolidated and pushed closer to the cab to make more room for spare fuel, water, batteries etc.
Fuel tank straps are made from 1/8" x 2" flat bar. Made some keyholes for the 'not so accessible' side and a stainless 5/16" stainless 't-bolt' for the other. A 2.5" thin rubber strip will go in between the straps and tank (Its actually rubber garage door seal, for the bottom).
I had to cut, rotate and weld the filler neck to be positioned correctly. Welded with silicon bronze.
And of course, a stainless filler neck mount for extra bling.
|08-30-2019 10:58 AM|
I was doing the rear tube work and the rear shock mounting around the same time.
Here are some shots of the the rear shock mounts, rear bumpstop mounts, and the rear spring perches welded in.
Ill be going with a double cardan rear driveshaft because the angle at ride height is around 13 degrees, so at full droop I felt that the double would be necessary.
I pulled out the smallest leaf at the bottom of the pack. It wasnt even the full length of the spring perch and I figured they would only aid in axle wrap considering how little contact was being made between the leafs and the perch.
|08-30-2019 10:45 AM|
I finished up most of the front tube work. Mounted the front coilover reservoirs. I still need to mount the top radiator support somehow.
But it was on to the back half.
I rearranged the garage to have a much better "shop flow" and its worked out much better and Ive been going to town on this thing. Im sure the neighbors love me...
|08-30-2019 10:35 AM|
Ive been pretty busy working on the rig over the summer. I worked for a month at Cal Poly teaching middle school and high school kids about mechanical engineering and doing various engineering activities for a summer camp thing they have going on.
Here are some pics of the progress so far. Its getting closer...
I knew I had to reinforce the front coilover mounts and running a bar over/around the engine was not an option. Nothing would fit under the hood.
BTW Ive been rolling and bending all this DOM (most of it is cold rolled) by hand. Fun stuff.
This is what I came up with:
|05-16-2019 06:01 PM|
|zachwrench||nice and tight cage I dig it|
|05-16-2019 12:56 PM|
School has been keeping me crazy busy as usual.
Finished up the cage over the cab. Its really tight over the cab, touching in some areas. Painted it by rolling on rustoleum hammered finish (black).
Tig welding this thing had me in some crazy positions, definitely some good practice.
|02-21-2019 09:25 PM|
I very much appreciate the advice. Your builds/work is insane and quite inspiring. I cant believe I havent seen any of it before. I definitely planned to make a carbon dash panel(s). It mostly depends on how much time I want to spend on making the tooling. Realistically I was thinking of making a shittier version of what you got going. The organic contours of the panels are what have held me up mostly.
Anyways, thanks for the advice and compliments!
*edit: forgot to ask you... are your carbon parts primarily wet layups or pre-preg?
|02-21-2019 02:56 AM|
Couple old build threads.
If you're going DSP...
Run your sub to 100-120hz. 18db slope. Solid and tight.
Bring your midbass in at 100hz to 2500hz 18db slope.
Tweets at 2500 and up 18db
Passive, set your high pass around 100-120 and experiment from there.
I'm taking the TWK88 out soon. EZ DSP that I'll be selling on DIYMA.
Nice, solid work on your rig.
Keep the build going....
|02-20-2019 11:42 PM|
Couple of questions for you:
Do you have more of a buildup of your truck and/or system?
Did you lay that carbon up yourself and how?
Where did you get that dash topper?
|02-19-2019 08:30 PM|
Killer build. The audio is very similar to mine.
Now you gotta make a carbon dash panel.
|02-18-2019 12:02 PM|
School continues to kick my ass. But at least I get to make carbon fiber stuff if I want/have time.
I made some carbon fiber plates to mount the amplifiers. Isolated them from the rear wall of the cab with some rubber feet made for big speaker cabinets I got on amazon for about $5 (for 8). This was done in hopes of reducing the amount of vibration the amps see. Both sides of the mounting hardware has stainless bonded sealing washers as well.
- Alpine MRV-F300 4 channel. For the speakers/tweaters.
- Alpine MRV-M500 mono. For the sub.
Pics of the passenger side: (The driver side looks identical)
|02-18-2019 11:50 AM|
|02-07-2019 01:31 PM|
|byron4||very clean looking truck; you're getting close to finishing- we're all excited to see the first dents!|
|01-27-2019 01:31 PM|
School has been keeping me busy and stressed as usual. However I managed to make some time to build a sub woofer box. The original plan was to put a shallow mount 10" behind the driver seat because space is incredibly limited behind the seats. Then I decided I could probably squeeze a 12" shallow mount in there somewhere. I ordered the wrong sub (I ordered a 2 ohm dual voice coil, instead of a 4 ohm), after lots of searching and pricing amps, subs, etc, I decided on a somewhat regular mounting depth 12" sub.
I knew it wasnt going to fit behind the seat and didnt really want the face of the sub almost touching the back of the seat anyways. So I decided it was going to directly in the center for an even better hearing loss experience. This way I will also be able to brand match the entire stereo, not that it really matters.
I knew space was going to be really tight and the box needed to at least have about .6 ft^3 minimum. After taking a million measurements I drew the box up in Solidworks to see what the volume was going to be and to see if the sub would even fit in the box and not contact the back.
Since the box was such a strange shape it has lots of weird angles so I used the Solidworks drawing to get all the measurements and angles and just hoped that it would actually go together. Out come the Skillsaw (since I dont have a table saw) and I just started going for it. Glued, screwed, sanded, sealed, and wrapped in some vinyl I got at a local fabric/upholstery store.
This was the first sub box Ive made. came out pretty decent I think and Ill have to wait a while to see how its going to sound. I have a feeling this sub is going to pound the shit out of this tiny single cab.
If anybody has any recommendations or advice concerning car audio please let me know. Im just going off of what Ive researched from the interwebs.
Box: 1/2" MDF inside volume: .665 ft^3 glued, screwed, sealed(caulked inside corners),
wrapped with vinyl. Mounting: Tee-nuts are secured on the
inside of the box, bolts go through the tranny tunnel from
underneath with a series of rubber washers/o-rings to seal the
holes completely and to cut down on vibration
Sub: Alpine S-W12D4 12" 600 watt RMS 4ohm dual voice coil.
It will be powered by an Alpine mono amp 500 watt RMS at 2ohms
|01-27-2019 12:44 PM|
The Raptor liner was fairly easy to shoot. It is extremely tough and cures super hard.
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