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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-20-2020 12:20 PM
DMANbluesfreak
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twmdodge99 View Post
This thing is sweet. I don’t get in the Chevy forum often but I’ll be watching yours for sure. Definitely different like my build. The short wheel base looks awesome.
Thanks man! Means a lot coming from you. Your build is fantastic.
02-20-2020 06:38 AM
Twmdodge99 This thing is sweet. I donít get in the Chevy forum often but Iíll be watching yours for sure. Definitely different like my build. The short wheel base looks awesome.
02-12-2020 06:20 AM
DMANbluesfreak
Quote:
Originally Posted by Subsrule View Post
Great build and great build thread. You have done a great job and should be very proud. I live close to C-U, surprised I never saw the truck around. Good luck going forward with it.
I haven't lived in Champaign for 5 years now, which is probably a big part of it. It was never on 40s while I lived in Champaign, either - only 37s.

I do visit often though and I'll be down there with the truck for a meet on March 21, so come check it out!

Thanks for the kind words!!
02-11-2020 07:21 PM
Subsrule Great build and great build thread. You have done a great job and should be very proud. I live close to C-U, surprised I never saw the truck around. Good luck going forward with it.
01-27-2020 07:54 AM
DMANbluesfreak Went to move the truck to the driveway last week and noticed a puddle of gas on the ground. One of the extended fuel lines had ruptured (not at a bend or rub area from what I could tell).

Instead of messing with the same method I used to extend the lines the 1st go around (boiling water to soften nylon line, tapping the quick connect to get it to slide in, etc.), I found this method online somewhere. It worked awesome.

Modified Quick-Grip clamp (or a caulk gun would also probably work) and brake flaring kit clamp which I rented. A tiny bit of petroleum jelly to make it slide in nicely. No drama and way faster.



I also noticed that the fuel line repair kits were just push-to-connect nylon fittings: https://smile.amazon.com/Fuel-Connec...dp/B07CYFJNM9/

Snagged one of each size to toss in the truck in case this were to happen remotely.
01-23-2020 03:24 PM
sterlingfire
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMANbluesfreak View Post
No worries, that's what this thread is for!



Good point. Maybe it's solely to do with the locking hubs? I know they won't slide freely if overpacked.
I could definitely see the locking hub being an issue if packed with grease. Maybe if you're using drive flanges it's an ok idea?
01-23-2020 11:36 AM
DMANbluesfreak
Quote:
Originally Posted by wvracer821 View Post
That makes sense. Sorry for the derailment


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No worries, that's what this thread is for!

Quote:
Originally Posted by sterlingfire View Post
Yes there is. You put a zerk into your hub near the wheel mount surface... using a needle zerk so it's low profile. You change it to a normal zerk when you need to grease. I was going to do this, but never got around to it.



If the over heating idea was true, then you wouldn't be packing trailer bearings full with a grease gun, i wouldn't think. Same style bearing, same principle spindle wise. I think it would be fine, but I've been wrong before...
Good point. Maybe it's solely to do with the locking hubs? I know they won't slide freely if overpacked.
01-22-2020 03:37 AM
sterlingfire
Quote:
Originally Posted by wvracer821 View Post
Isnít there some tech on here about adding a grease fitting to the hub so that you can pull the lockout and pump in clean grease and drive out the water and trash?
Yes there is. You put a zerk into your hub near the wheel mount surface... using a needle zerk so it's low profile. You change it to a normal zerk when you need to grease. I was going to do this, but never got around to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DMANbluesfreak View Post
Only for the spindle bearing/bushing. It threads onto the spindle once the locking hub is removed. I just made mine out of some scrap plastic at work and it self threaded itself the first time I threaded it on the spindle. The hub itself should not be packed full of grease otherwise it will overheat I believe.
If the over heating idea was true, then you wouldn't be packing trailer bearings full with a grease gun, i wouldn't think. Same style bearing, same principle spindle wise. I think it would be fine, but I've been wrong before...
01-21-2020 07:22 PM
wvracer821
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMANbluesfreak View Post
Only for the spindle bearing/bushing. It threads onto the spindle once the locking hub is removed. I just made mine out of some scrap plastic at work and it self threaded itself the first time I threaded it on the spindle. The hub itself should not be packed full of grease otherwise it will overheat I believe.


That makes sense. Sorry for the derailment


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
01-21-2020 09:15 AM
DMANbluesfreak Only for the spindle bearing/bushing. It threads onto the spindle once the locking hub is removed. I just made mine out of some scrap plastic at work and it self threaded itself the first time I threaded it on the spindle. The hub itself should not be packed full of grease otherwise it will overheat I believe.
01-21-2020 08:53 AM
wvracer821 Isnít there some tech on here about adding a grease fitting to the hub so that you can pull the lockout and pump in clean grease and drive out the water and trash?
01-20-2020 06:30 PM
wes761 Another trick that's helped significantly is applying rtv between the hub and lockout, better sealing of the o-ring.... absolutely zero water gets inside. I try to pump grease into my spindle bushings once a year to help seal the next obvious point of intrusion.
01-20-2020 12:32 PM
billy bones Same here. Been using marine grease in my junk for a long time without issue

The truck looks great, it has progressed nicely over the years. I can't always see the pics but still following along
01-20-2020 11:53 AM
DMANbluesfreak
Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthernWolf View Post
Run BRP PN 0775778 in the wheel bearings. The triple guard will work ok but the other PN is a marine grade wheel bearing grease. You can run it in the bushings as well if you only want to have one grease on hand. We use both being a BRP dealer we have ample stock of each. Triple guard in steering components and bushings, The marine WB grease on trailers and anything that may see excessive pressure and heat. They both can be found for about the same price adn just about every marine manufacturer offers both types, different names and PNs of course.
Sounds good. I'll likely make the switch when I do my next bearing service. This stuff isn't any more expensive than the Valvoline Synthetic EP I'm currently buying at the local parts store - I just need to plan ahead and stock some.
01-20-2020 10:21 AM
NorthernWolf
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMANbluesfreak View Post
Will do. You run marine grease in the wheel bearings too? No issues with it overheating?

I will say that the Energy suspension bushings I replaced these with have a seemingly solid (no visible weld seam) sleeve and are yellow-zinc plated. I don't think the old ones were. So these ought to last longer. I used the provided energy suspension grease which is super tacky (like marine grease), so again - these will probably last longer.

Still, I've gone 5-6 years on my front springs before I needed to replace the rubber bushings and it wasn't due to rust - they had just finally worn out due to all the flexing and whatnot. I'd much prefer a rubber bushing on my leaf spring shackle if at all possible.

I got the truck back together last night. Ended up taking out the cut-down overload from the pack since the rear measured higher than the front hub to fender when I set it down on jack stands. Didn't get a level-ground measurement, but it looks close to where it was before.



Yesterday on my lunch break, I went down the rabbit hole of leaf spring slider boxes for the next iteration of my rear suspension. I'm seriously considering this route, now. Looks like a lot of people have good luck with these even on a street-driven rig. The biggest thing would be making sure to plate the bottom of the slider box so that they don't get damaged coming down on them off-road, but that should be no problem. They'd be a fully custom design if I go this route so I can run really beefy UHMW sliders (or upgrade to bronze if those don't last long enough). It started out as a brain exercise but now I'm really liking this as an option.
Run BRP PN 0775778 in the wheel bearings. The triple guard will work ok but the other PN is a marine grade wheel bearing grease. You can run it in the bushings as well if you only want to have one grease on hand. We use both being a BRP dealer we have ample stock of each. Triple guard in steering components and bushings, The marine WB grease on trailers and anything that may see excessive pressure and heat. They both can be found for about the same price adn just about every marine manufacturer offers both types, different names and PNs of course.
01-15-2020 12:58 PM
DMANbluesfreak Got it finished up and fully welded/painted last night after flexing it out to make sure things cleared. Also got one of the two quick disconnects prototyped, but I'll be redoing it with stainless so it doesn't rust.










First impressions are that the truck is WAY more stable on sweeping turns. I'm very happy with it and now wish I added this years ago.
01-14-2020 01:56 PM
DMANbluesfreak It's 1.25" OD, but it's hollow. I never measured the ID, but I estimate it is around .2" wall thickness. I'll try and measure tonight.

The overall length is 36".
01-14-2020 01:51 PM
wvracer821 What are the dimensions of the bar? I have now been looking at the universal antirock bars to put in the same place as yours.
01-14-2020 12:25 PM
DMANbluesfreak
Quote:
Originally Posted by wvracer821 View Post
Killer setup for the swaybar. Iím sure it will help out a ton on the road.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks man! I just hope its not too stiff. Then again, my daily is a Mazdaspeed 3 that lifts a tire when I turn into my work parking lot ramp... so there's probably no such thing as too stiff

Quote:
Originally Posted by ]4RunnerKid[ View Post
sway bar setup is looking good so far. maybe go quick release on both sides at the axle side and weld another set of mounts to the shock hoops for when it's disconnected? pretty common setup on Jeeps
Well hot damn, that was my exact thought. It really comes down to if I need to remove both links offroad. If I remove just the driver's side, I need to tie the link up onto the arm somehow (should be easy).

If both need to be removed to accommodate full articulation, I'll tie them both into the frame or shock hoop like pictured there.

Something like this would be super cool, but overly complicated if I'm being honest with myself. https://www.quadratec.com/products/56016_300_07.htm

01-14-2020 11:38 AM
]4RunnerKid[ sway bar setup is looking good so far. maybe go quick release on both sides at the axle side and weld another set of mounts to the shock hoops for when it's disconnected? pretty common setup on Jeeps
01-14-2020 11:27 AM
wvracer821 Killer setup for the swaybar. Iím sure it will help out a ton on the road.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
01-14-2020 11:19 AM
DMANbluesfreak After getting the leaf springs installed and some friendly ribbing from @BigLBZPower08 , I got a wild hair about installing the Custom/Prototype WFO Sway Bar I've had for over 5 years (!!) that they pulled off a GMT400 they were parting out.

It's a splined torsion bar style (like Currie) with clamp-on thick arms and uses UHMW bushings at each end of a tube to support the torsion bar. In the interest of saving weight, I didn't see the point in running a tube across the frame to support only the ends of the torsion bar, so I found some 1.5" and used it as an alignment bar. I calculate around 5lbs saved by eliminating the material between the mounts.



I also determined that due to my shock hoop design that the straight arms wouldn't clear no matter what I did, and I figured out that bent arms would work quite well.



I tried bending them with my home-fabbed (SWAG style) press brake and they wouldn't budge. But I was able to quickly whip up a die with more separation between the two sides and get the 3/4" thick w to bend with my 20t press. I upgraded my test arm to aluminum from cardboard to be doubly sure.



Trial 1 on the wider die was the right piece. Didn’t help. Trial 2 was adding the angle iron which increased the span almost double and I was finally able to get them to bend. I can’t do 90į, but I got them bent enough (with room to go further if I needed).


Final mockup and measurement/marking before tacking things in.


After confirming on the truck that things fit, I cut off the unnecessary stuff and welded the pieces together, reinsering the alignment bar for final weld.


And put some hefty tacks on the frame mounts and axle mounts:




Last steps are to remove one link at a time and flex the truck out to make sure there’s no unexpected interference with other components. I know for a fact that even flexed that the shocks will limit the travel before the arms hit the shock hoops, so I’m good there. The only thing I’m concerned with is if I leave the passenger side connected offroad (only remove the driver’s side link for simplicity) the link may interfere with the drag link under heavy droop. Time will tell, though. Locally I doubt I can get it to fully droop.

I'd also like to make the axle mounts tool-less quick disconnect - I've got some ideas on this. Oh, and tear everything apart for paint.
01-10-2020 01:23 PM
DMANbluesfreak
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06 H3 View Post
I enjoy the leaf spring tech of spring rates! I enjoy any of that odd tech...Looking good as always.

I have never been sold on slider boxes. What is the actual benefit to them?
More lateral stability (especially on the road) and more linear/controlled spring rate modification than shackles. Since the shackles move in an arc, they affect the spring rate of the leaf spring as it changes from arched to flat and vice-versa. Slider boxes don't do this at all.

For my application, they also yield a better departure angle than a tension shackle and essentially the same departure angle as with compression shackles (since the spring eye is more or less the lowest point).

I'm still not fully sold on going this route, but it's worth exploring or maybe even trying out. I have a line on some 3" lift Alcan springs used from someone, which aren't quite arched enough for a tension shackle, but would be a good candidate for a slider box (or compression shackle setup).
01-10-2020 01:07 PM
06 H3 I enjoy the leaf spring tech of spring rates! I enjoy any of that odd tech...Looking good as always.

I have never been sold on slider boxes. What is the actual benefit to them?
01-10-2020 11:38 AM
Grohe
Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthernWolf View Post
If you can't get the bushings you're looking for, try marine grease on whatever you do toss in there. It works great up here in NH with all the salt and weather we see. The BRP brand is called Triple Guard and the grease gun tube is PN 775776.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wes761 View Post
I second this.

Since switching to marine grease 3 years ago i haven't had to replace a u-joint, rod end, or bearing..... or even repack front wheel bearings.
Good feedback. I was going to start doing some maintenance items soon, like pulling apart my hubs and packing the front bearings, and the use of marine grease keeps popping in my mind.
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