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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-22-2019 07:07 PM
paulhead
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsawduste View Post
If that's the case than move the TR under the arm. Yes it sets a bit lower but there isn't a high steer setup that will give you the Ackerman you want.

The trade off in ground clearance is well worth the better handling good geometry will give you.
I'm thinking that would be most cost efficient and looking at the arm I have now it may sit too low to go full hi-steer without adding an inch to the current arm plus getting the drivers arm, cutting the tie rod end, etc. Yeah plus the handling.
09-22-2019 05:44 PM
jsawduste
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulhead View Post
Haven't got a chance to fully flex it out yet but I may face a chance of the tie rod hitting the springs because I'm over the knuckle. I guess because of most of your guys' set ups the solution is to go full hi-steer? Or I could get the inserts to go under the knuckle too.
If that's the case than move the TR under the arm. Yes it sets a bit lower but there isn't a high steer setup that will give you the Ackerman you want.

The trade off in ground clearance is well worth the better handling good geometry will give you.
09-21-2019 06:58 PM
RANGERROD
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulhead View Post
Haven't got a chance to fully flex it out yet but I may face a chance of the tie rod hitting the springs because I'm over the knuckle. I guess because of most of your guys' set ups the solution is to go full hi-steer? Or I could get the inserts to go under the knuckle too.
I think if you went with a t steering unless your steering box is mounted stupid low the draglink will hit the springs no matter what. Go full high steer.
09-21-2019 05:57 PM
paulhead Haven't got a chance to fully flex it out yet but I may face a chance of the tie rod hitting the springs because I'm over the knuckle. I guess because of most of your guys' set ups the solution is to go full hi-steer? Or I could get the inserts to go under the knuckle too.
09-17-2019 02:00 PM
jsawduste
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulhead View Post
Thanx for your help guys, here's the route I took. Thanx @jsawduste

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep...l#post44606806
09-17-2019 09:43 AM
paulhead Thanx for your help guys, here's the route I took. Thanx @jsawduste

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep...l#post44606806
02-02-2019 10:47 AM
paulhead Thats probably close to what mine will look like with waggys SOA, so basically set up everything then determine what my clearance is. Got it, thanx guys
02-02-2019 09:57 AM
RANGERROD Im running re 1445s 1.5 springs and have drivetrain in these photos. My perches are level to the ground.
02-02-2019 09:47 AM
RANGERROD
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulhead View Post
How tall a high steer arm should I use? I'm seeing there's different heights
It really depends on your setup. If the front on the spring is up and the back is lower you’ll need taller arms to clear the springs. In my build I kept my front spring hanger and rear close to the same and I’m still running skys tall arms. You can see in my photo I have a ton of clearance above my springs. This is with 1.5” springs and no weight.
02-02-2019 08:59 AM
jsawduste You only need to clear the frame at full compression and the spring anytime else.

Parallel to the ground at ride height is idea but not as critical as other suspension types. Concentrate on keeping the DL out of harms way as the suspension cycles.
02-02-2019 01:48 AM
paulhead
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsawduste View Post
On the Bill Vista link. The bottom picture........crossover........is the correct way to go on a dual purpose rig. DL to a passenger HS arm. TR to the cast in arms on the knuckle.

The pitman arm length and the DL to ball joint length should be the same or close to the same to keep steering angle.

Mounting the TR to the knuckle arm preserves Ackerman and adds to straight line stability. If you running a ram than this type of mounting will also help with TR roll.

Look up and grasp what Scrub Radius is. Measure your Scrub Radius and fit wheels with correct backspacing based on your SR number.

If your game, bumping up the torsion bar in the steering box is another worthwhile mod.

Play with toe and don't be afraid to set it outside of what most consider specs. Like 0 or even a little toed out.
How tall a high steer arm should I use? I'm seeing there's different heights
02-01-2019 02:57 PM
jsawduste On the Bill Vista link. The bottom picture........crossover........is the correct way to go on a dual purpose rig. DL to a passenger HS arm. TR to the cast in arms on the knuckle.

The pitman arm length and the DL to ball joint length should be the same or close to the same to keep steering angle.

Mounting the TR to the knuckle arm preserves Ackerman and adds to straight line stability. If you running a ram than this type of mounting will also help with TR roll.

Look up and grasp what Scrub Radius is. Measure your Scrub Radius and fit wheels with correct backspacing based on your SR number.

If your game, bumping up the torsion bar in the steering box is another worthwhile mod.

Play with toe and don't be afraid to set it outside of what most consider specs. Like 0 or even a little toed out.
01-31-2019 01:03 AM
paulhead thanx guys
01-30-2019 09:27 AM
Tipped
Quote:
Originally Posted by RANGERROD View Post
I did exactly this. I used a flat waggy pitman arm. I was using 1.5 springs. About the same height as saggy springs.
Yep, I used a flat waggy pitman arm too. It was redrilled for the large, high angle GM double pivot drag link ends.

LINK: Re-tapered Pitman

Quote:
Originally Posted by paulhead View Post
Didn't have frame hitting drag link issues?
Never had a problem hitting frame with draglink or tie rod. My rig is a little on the tall side, so I have that problem instead. I get a buttload of flex.



01-30-2019 08:01 AM
RANGERROD
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tipped View Post
Don't have YJ specific experience, but it can't be that much different than a CJ. I went high steer cross over waggy soa and have no regrets. I used sky manufacturing tall arms to get the tie rod up away from the springs and closer to level with the drag link. Been awesome. Used WFO concepts for custom made to order length .219" wall X 1.25" diam threaded tie rod/drag link. Very happy with all of it.
I did exactly this. I used a flat waggy pitman arm. I was using 1.5 springs. About the same height as saggy springs.
01-30-2019 06:59 AM
SanDiegoCJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulhead View Post
Didn't have frame hitting drag link issues?
I did a Waggy front D44 on my CJ7 with flat top knuckles and the tie rod & draglink on top of the steering arms. Never had a problem with the drag link hitting the frame.
01-30-2019 01:14 AM
paulhead Didn't have frame hitting drag link issues?
01-30-2019 01:08 AM
Tipped Don't have YJ specific experience, but it can't be that much different than a CJ. I went high steer cross over waggy soa and have no regrets. I used sky manufacturing tall arms to get the tie rod up away from the springs and closer to level with the drag link. Been awesome. Used WFO concepts for custom made to order length .219" wall X 1.25" diam threaded tie rod/drag link. Very happy with all of it.
01-29-2019 11:04 PM
paulhead
Ideal steering for SOA YJ,

F250 D44, waggy SOA so gonna move the axle forward 2" with the 1" foward steering box mount. Anybody's past experience, which of these is the ideal setup? https://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billa...ngresearch.htm

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