|08-09-2019 05:34 PM|
|08-09-2019 04:40 PM|
|08-08-2019 08:07 PM|
Well, sold my FF 8" and spacers to a friend going under a much milder rig
I built a FZJ80 rear with a Grizzly and Nitro shafts. That should hold up to 35s all day.
On the front i have a couple of directions... I bent Brians ear over at FROR for a good hour awhile back. He seems to think that FJ80 vs Mini was a moot point, because at the end of the day its still 30 spline inners. Well, i have a 30 spline rear, so whatever.
I have a friend in Kangaroo land sourcing me a H233 HP front diff. (31 spline carrier). I have a SD D50, 84 mini axle, and a FJ80 front for donor outers... Or I found a Dodge KP D60 collecting dust, but the weight and clearance penalty doesnt seem worth it.
Given those options, and only those options, discuss. Back in the day my last rig was a F350 with D60s on 35s. The gas peddle was binary and i never broke an axle shaft, because it couldnt go anywhere without full throttle. so (in my mind) 30 spline will work. Money not an option, i already know im spending $3500+ on the front.
|02-24-2019 02:18 PM|
|BadRep||After reading threw this post ive got a few questions. I just picked up an 86 4runner. I'm debating swapping out the toys for d44 and a newer chevy rear with discs. I'm in Idaho, I dont think I will have any issues with narrow hard turn trails, this is my first "trail" rig build and I'd rather not build it multiple times, hence going full width and dual cases from the start before I build drivelines. Does anyone still run toyota leaf springs with full width axles? I also noticed someone mentioning Ford axles, isnt the diff on the wrong side?|
|02-11-2019 08:01 PM|
60 up front
14-bolt out back
CRY ONCE orrrr cry twice.... your choice.
|02-10-2019 08:07 PM|
60s for me all day long. heavier, way more flex, overbuilt for most yota.
|02-10-2019 12:41 PM|
|DEER TICK||Heres my bitch after 15 years of breaking, and building better. Attachment 2919288|
|02-09-2019 11:47 PM|
|02-09-2019 09:08 PM|
|too tall||I'm partial to toyota parts I have beat on 9.5" thirds pretty hard and they have held up pretty good. I would think that on 35's they would survive. I made a 60 series housing close to the same width as an 80 series rear using the spacer you talked about earlier. Trail gear makes a +5 short side that works when the spacer is added. Quite a lot wider but not quite full width. Allows me to turn 40's on my rig lock to lock and not touch the front leaves. I run a full gusset past the perches on a stock front housing and it seems to stay straight a bit better than others I have seen. I have a set of bigger axles (60/14 bolt) I could have put in a long time ago but these ones just stay together somehow?|
|02-09-2019 06:30 PM|
|02-09-2019 05:51 PM|
|cryptic toy||I will agree and disagree My thoughts are the third is only as strong as it can be . If you take that same third and put it in a housing that has some beef to it ,seems like it will take some stress out of the third. In a stock housing all the minor bends and tweaks seem like it will eventually play havoc on the third. My third is still good but on its third housing (all toyota and changed asap ) and this one is torque /collapsed from spring perch to brake backing plate. So I'm on the fence of which way to go.|
|02-09-2019 02:48 PM|
|02-09-2019 01:45 PM|
Is the ARB that much superior in strength/runout/flex versus another full case locker? Ive put in some cheap spools that the back lash varied depending on where on the ring gear i was measuring
GRM - still running an HP e locker on the front?
|02-09-2019 01:02 PM|
|02-09-2019 01:00 PM|
|02-09-2019 12:46 PM|
|02-09-2019 12:13 PM|
The rear 8 elocker broke 9 of the pinion teeth. When it was in an FJ Cruiser, the same diff broke 3 ring gear teeth.
My guess is the 8 4cyl housing didnt have enough oil volume and the axle overheated.
But no issues now that I have a diamond 9.5 rear axle
|02-09-2019 09:27 AM|
Im not planning on it being a permanent solution. If I like the setup, then i can order a diamond and swap housing down the road. I also have a spare mini housing. If i need to be wider, i can add IFS hubs to the front and FJ80 hubs to the rear. Or just swap in an 80 rear. If i had a FJ60 front housing, id probably go 9.5s off the bat.
I just cant stomach spending $1000+ on a housing that i dont know 100% spec i want it built to. I wouldnt have thought FJ80 wheels would rub the springs.
|02-09-2019 08:06 AM|
The front end on the other hand... I worry about those extensions on a stock toyota mini axle. I bent 3 houings right under the spring perch in 6 months before I stepped up to the diamond. I’m at 10 years on the diamond with signifigantly more wheeling and still no issues.
And I had to add wheel spacers to my diamond to clear the 4.5” backspace wheels, making my truck 65” front and 64” rear.
|02-08-2019 10:17 PM|
|rockyota83||have fun replacing r&p's|
|02-08-2019 09:44 PM|
Restart the flaming. Truck is still in pieces, but next up. Shop has been tied up with work and other paying projects.
Dually full float Toyota rear. With BJ60 hubs its 61.5". Thought about starting a thread because theres a lot of misinformation out there on it.
Bought a couple axle sleeves (what cruiser guys call them). Theyre 2.650" long and meant to make a 40 housing 60 width. Itll make a mini housing 61.5" wide on stock hubs.
Yukon grizzly are $450 shipped each. RCVs are $775. Steering and such is $600. ARP 7/16" hubs studs all around.
I'll see what breaks and go from there. After seeing what rustynails truck has done (yes i know hes on 9.5s) and considering im NOT racing. It should hold.
|07-26-2018 09:45 AM|
|KyTrash||which axles did you choose to build ?|
|05-29-2018 01:30 PM|
Fab'd 9 housing from his favorite vendor, ECGS third, 05+ Ford Dana 60 outers and 16-17+ 1580 factory ford D60 shafts for $300.
|05-29-2018 01:27 PM|
|05-23-2018 03:38 PM|
Fixed that advice
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