|10-31-2019 07:05 AM|
This is what I want! You got anymore pics of the top?
|02-12-2019 09:33 AM|
I was just going over your Willys build too, cool to see you're still building badass rigs.
|02-12-2019 09:05 AM|
|02-11-2019 07:39 PM|
Itís a Jeep with a truck cab right
Thing went through hell, I saw it up close after the race, took a hell of a beating.
|02-10-2019 10:24 PM|
|02-10-2019 06:17 PM|
1991 YJ, 120" wb stretch, 37s
All body parts and mods are in steel. Body and paint to come once the temp warms up. Was a fun project that is now up to the owner to finish.
|02-02-2019 01:29 PM|
|818scrambler||Bringing this back from the dead. Any new cab truck builds out there?|
|03-14-2018 06:32 AM|
im just learning as i go
|03-09-2018 12:28 PM|
Love your builds. You really have an awesome talent.
|03-09-2018 12:05 PM|
got the cab in primer
i hate doing bodywork but its really rewarding to see finished project
|03-01-2018 11:31 AM|
The Willys grille/clip on a TJ/LJ doesn't look quite right to me, but some may like it. I do like "retro" looking Jeeps though, I've got a CJ grille on my LJ...
|03-01-2018 09:26 AM|
One of the projects that I've been trying to find time for, for years, is a Willys wagon on an unlimited chassis like the one the Mopar Underground did. I may never get around to it, but some of the mix-and-match bodywork on this thread suggested another way. I'm wondering about a Willys front clip on an Unlimited.
As usual with projects that sound like a good idea, it probably won't fit. And if it does, it probably won't look right anyway. Do you know of anyone who's tried it and taken pictures (whether it worked or not)? Failing that, is there someone who's better at manipulating images than I am, who could put together a picture of what the result would look like if it could be made to fit?
|02-26-2018 01:28 PM|
The cj8 slider is too wide at 47" i only have 43" available so im going to cut it out of plexiglass for now and use that as a template for real glass
i ordered 2 piece gasket from amazon
i have been trying to find solid glass for the cj8 half cab with no luck
i found cj8 slider for around 150 on amazon and gasket similar to your link
all for around 220$ i think ill go with it unless something else comes up
|02-26-2018 12:14 PM|
Here's one source I often use for window gasket: AS1216-WS (Sold By The Foot) - Restoration Specialties and Supply, Inc.. They have several different variants based on how thick your cab wall is. This type has a separate lockstrip, which in my experience provides for a better seal than the type with an integrated lockstrip. The lockstrip is most easily installed with this tool: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-47000-W.../dp/B000COA1CQ
I had the glass for my cab done at a local auto glass place. I brought them a cardboard template and they cut it for me out of laminated safety glass. I don't recall what I paid but I think it was $125 or less.
|02-26-2018 06:47 AM|
thanks for the info
where did you get your window and gasket i wouldn't mind having solid window instead of slider
i went and somewhat followed your technique and created fiberglass panel that i later glued into the opening
i was lazy and instead of paint and wax the mold i used poly bag as mold
and panel ended up being wavy but thats ok ill fix that later
most of it will be cut out anyways
i didnt have much fiberglass mat so i used carbon fiber i bought in 2011 for project
this is where i got before i ran out of epoxy and fiberglass
|02-25-2018 05:49 AM|
|02-24-2018 08:22 PM|
India's got the U.S. beat when it comes to factory-made Jeep pickups, these are Mahindra "PikUps".
|02-23-2018 07:53 PM|
I used fiberglass when I made the hardtop for my Gaucho project, and I used a gasket like the one you pictured to mount my window, although my window was a simple piece of laminated safety glass, not a slider.
You can make a sheet of fiberglass as follows:
1. A piece of masonite makes a good mold. Use a piece a bit larger than the panel you need to make and varnish or paint the smooth side to seal it.
2. After the paint/varnish fully dries, apply at least 4 layers of a good quality paste wax to the painted surface of the masonite.
3. Apply a coat of polyester resin to the waxed surface using a soft paintbrush, and then apply successive layers of fiberglass mat to the board, soaking each layer thoroughly with resin applied with the brush. Build up layers until the fiberglass is about 3/16" thick - probably 4 layers of 1.5 oz. mat. To save on fiberglass materials, you don't need to make a full sheet, you just lay up the fiberglass around the edges and leave the window opening without fiberglass. To do this it would help to draw the window opening on the painted/varnished masonite with a sharpie marker before waxing it. You'll be able to see the line as you begin laying up the fiberglass and can avoid putting layers in the window opening.
4. After letting the fiberglass cure overnight, remove it from the masonite and clean any wax off it.
5. Trim it to shape to fit in the hatch opening in the hardtop and bond it in place with fiberglass resin and mat. Apply the mat as reinforcement on the inside of the joint. Bodywork the outside of the joint with ordinary body filler. Then cut the window hole.
You could tint the fiberglass white like mine although since you'll be painting the hardtop that really isn't necessary.
An alternate way would be to make a masonite panel as above that you could attach to the hardtop shell with screwed (painted/varnished side facing in), and then do the fiberglass layup on the inside of the hardtop - this will result in a filled hole that's already bonded in place. Once the fiberglass has cured, remove the screws holding the masonite to the hardtop and peel it off. The joint will be somewhat rough, so fill that and the screw holes with body filler.
I've made panels both ways, but if this is your first time with fiberglass it might be easier to make the sheet separately as first described above and then trim it/bond it in place.
You can also use either technique to fill the remains of the window holes in the sides of your cut hardtop. For small openings like that it's often easier to use the second method of securing a masonite "mold" to the outside of the top and 'glassing it from the inside.
Happy to provide more advice and guidance if you decide to take this route. It's really a much better and longer-term solution than making the filler panels from wood, and it's really not difficult, don't be afraid of fiberglass .
|02-23-2018 11:46 AM|
on amazon w i found RV sliding windows
2 piece sliders
that are meant for new install and for wall thickness 1"
i can just use plywood and make the flange 1" thick
size is 48 x 15 about 230$
i do like the 4 piece slider
from those guys gre8tops cj-8 replacement slider window
this uses rubber gasket to hold the window in
ive never installed any windows
in their gasket drawing pic they show the panel thickness needs to be 1/8 to 3/16 thick (or im i looking at it up side down)
if i go this route what do i use as filler panel
thin luan and few layers of fiberglass? to make it 3/16" thick,
or whats the right way to go about it
price would be about the same
|02-23-2018 11:33 AM|
|02-23-2018 11:27 AM|
TO BUMP THIS UP
What you guys using for windows and filler material for the rear panel ?
im in the middle of cutting mine down
|01-27-2017 06:22 PM|
Back from the dead
I have a fiber glass CJ5 body and one peace hood, I also a regular cab 2000 superduty F350 with a way rusty body and bed. Was thinking jeep hood /cab and flat bed with the superduty frame and running gear?
|04-27-2016 07:24 AM|
|j20brett||You know they used to sell these right?|
|04-26-2016 08:43 AM|
|04-26-2016 08:38 AM|
|contractordad||Thanks for the info, ill do some asking around,i live in arizona.|
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