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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-30-2019 10:16 AM
06silverback
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcutler1 View Post
That's kinda what I figured.

Only issue I had with it was in checking the straightness of the housing with an alignment bar. Had to check at the tube end at the inner C, rather than through the unit bearings.

Good work following up with questions and knowledge on your parts[emoji106].

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Not a problem, Iím happy to answer questions when I can. Good looking build, Iíll be following it.
11-30-2019 08:02 AM
mcutler1
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06silverback View Post
Good question. -3* camber seemed to have the best adjustability for me with testing. Ran as true negative camber itís been shown to decrease scrub radius and the bushing can be turned to achieve different combinations of neg camber/neg knuckle caster
That's kinda what I figured.

Only issue I had with it was in checking the straightness of the housing with an alignment bar. Had to check at the tube end at the inner C, rather than through the unit bearings.

Good work following up with questions and knowledge on your parts[emoji106].

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
11-30-2019 07:17 AM
06silverback
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcutler1 View Post
I anticipated that would happen, non-issue.

Cool.

Is -3į camber a standard grind for you or was that customer requested? Strictly for better street manners or some other reason.

I like a neg degree or two for go fast, just curious.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Good question. -3* camber seemed to have the best adjustability for me with testing. Ran as true negative camber itís been shown to decrease scrub radius and the bushing can be turned to achieve different combinations of neg camber/neg knuckle caster
11-29-2019 08:05 PM
mcutler1
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06silverback View Post
Sometimes the cup can warp from welding slightly and need a little on the inside to slide the bearing in. If you have any questions or any issues donít hesitate to reach me. Iím also going to offer the upgrade to the Race Series tapered split bushing for those with existing kits.

Itís going to appear in CRAWL in the ďProving GroundsĒ section for new products to the market. Been talking to them nearly a year about it. It will then have an installation and performance write-up (prob Spring).
I anticipated that would happen, non-issue.

Cool.

Is -3į camber a standard grind for you or was that customer requested? Strictly for better street manners or some other reason.

I like a neg degree or two for go fast, just curious.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
11-29-2019 07:25 PM
06silverback
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcutler1 View Post
Everything went together well. Had to put a little finish on the cup once welding was complete. Looking forward to a long term report on them.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Sometimes the cup can warp from welding slightly and need a little on the inside to slide the bearing in. If you have any questions or any issues donít hesitate to reach me. Iím also going to offer the upgrade to the Race Series tapered split bushing for those with existing kits.

Itís going to appear in CRAWL in the ďProving GroundsĒ section for new products to the market. Been talking to them nearly a year about it. It will then have an installation and performance write-up (prob Spring).
11-29-2019 11:20 AM
mcutler1
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06silverback View Post
Were you happy with the Balljoint Delete Kit? Thatís my product so I like following up when I see it out there. Iím releasing a Race Series soon thatís got a 7075 split bushing with a taper
Everything went together well. Had to put a little finish on the cup once welding was complete. Looking forward to a long term report on them.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
11-29-2019 11:03 AM
06silverback
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcutler1 View Post
Yes, appear to be from f450. Couldn't say on fitment Chris. They were delivered to me directly from East Coast Gear with the c's installed and fully welded. I installed the 05 knuckles and ball joint eliminators.

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Were you happy with the Balljoint Delete Kit? Thatís my product so I like following up when I see it out there. Iím releasing a Race Series soon thatís got a 7075 split bushing with a taper
11-27-2019 02:18 PM
waterhorse I usually like the way you keep your work shop neat, but I can't agree with the way you store clamps.
11-27-2019 10:19 AM
mcutler1 Works like a charm...





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11-26-2019 05:36 PM
mcutler1
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris demartini View Post
Nice work as usual. Are those ultimate 60 inner C's on the trail gear axles? How was the fitment of those on the tubes?
Yes, appear to be from f450. Couldn't say on fitment Chris. They were delivered to me directly from East Coast Gear with the c's installed and fully welded. I installed the 05 knuckles and ball joint eliminators.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
11-26-2019 03:44 PM
chris demartini Nice work as usual. Are those ultimate 60 inner C's on the trail gear axles? How was the fitment of those on the tubes?
11-26-2019 07:45 AM
mcutler1
Quote:
Originally Posted by GiS View Post
Nice work as always Matt, the I-Beam/Trailing Arm fixture station makes perfect sense and as you say .. way more efficient if you can jump back and forth between both arms when welding them out.

With a heim at each end, and the shock eyes mounting above center-line, what approach will you take to prevent wobble of the arms?
Thanks buddy.

It's been done successfully with just having bushings in the shock tabs to lock the tabs to the shock eye. I do run a couple small beads between the jamb nut and the insert on the leading hiem for security.

I've prepped a couple u4 cars with this implemented, bomber car and an Ifs car.

Something like this bushing...



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11-26-2019 07:37 AM
GiS Nice work as always Matt, the I-Beam/Trailing Arm fixture station makes perfect sense and as you say .. way more efficient if you can jump back and forth between both arms when welding them out.

With a heim at each end, and the shock eyes mounting above center-line, what approach will you take to prevent wobble of the arms?
11-25-2019 04:22 PM
mcutler1 So much to catch up with... tail gear rock assault 9's going under Watford buggy.























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11-25-2019 04:20 PM
mcutler1 Custom parts require custom homemade tools. Having #cncplasma for a year now has really expanded my thinking and love of fixturing to easier build more accurate and distinctive parts. I recently built this kick ass I- beam axle housing fixture along with fixtures for the @weldtables . And rather than having this large apparatus take up space when not in need, I decided it could double as a rotisserie for building trailing arms. I came up with this so I may simultaneously build and weld both arms at the same time with the cooling time between welds being shared. Not to mention spun around for the most comfortable welding position.



Trailing arms incoming..
















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11-25-2019 04:18 PM
mcutler1 Man I've fallen behind..

Mo work




















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09-13-2019 08:40 PM
mcutler1
Quote:
Originally Posted by AccuTune Offroad View Post
Love it, thanks for the updates!
Thanks Ryan!

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09-13-2019 05:21 PM
AccuTune Offroad Love it, thanks for the updates!
09-12-2019 09:46 PM
mcutler1
Quote:
Originally Posted by giles45shop View Post
Thanks for the extra details, I was going to ask about that as I was starting to do some research into what was needed to start playing. Time to order some more tools
No problem. After I did my first panel or two, I did spend a little more on layout tools- rivet fan, counter sinks, auto center punch, rivet cutter- so you can order 1/2 length and cut to cover nearly any thickness you may fasten.

This stuff certainly isn't needed for the do it yourself, but to be more efficient for profit.

Good places to start: and get ready if your a tool freak to be overwhelmed...

www.rivetsinstock.com

www.aircraft-tool.com

www.hansonrivet.com

And of course mcmaster-carr

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09-12-2019 08:43 PM
giles45shop
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcutler1 View Post
Forgot to mention,

Solid rivets are super cheap, pennies on the dollar versus nice button or panhead fasteners and nut certs. A little more labor to do them right, but the results are worth it.

Obviously provided the panel is to remain fixed.

And I'm using Eastwood cheapo rivet set and backer bar.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Thanks for the extra details, I was going to ask about that as I was starting to do some research into what was needed to start playing. Time to order some more tools
09-12-2019 04:43 PM
mcutler1
Quote:
Originally Posted by giles45shop View Post
Awesome work as usual. Your tin work always makes me want to head out to the shop and play with my bead roller some more. What did you use to secure the triangular vent on the front inner fender? I couldn't blow up the image enough to tell? I like using stainless steel button heads, but always looking for new ideas. I've benn thinking about getting the stuff to do some actual rivets for something different.
Forgot to mention,

Solid rivets are super cheap, pennies on the dollar versus nice button or panhead fasteners and nut certs. A little more labor to do them right, but the results are worth it.

Obviously provided the panel is to remain fixed.

And I'm using Eastwood cheapo rivet set and backer bar.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
09-11-2019 09:01 PM
mcutler1
Quote:
Originally Posted by waterhorse View Post
Great work as always.

Where did you get that hexagon metal?
Thank you!

I cut that on the plasma table, hence the pattern being stopped on the triangle sides. I also bead rolled a flange to raise the honeycomb flush with the cutout.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PintoBeans View Post
Awesome work.

How much travel will this buggy be getting in the rear end with the shorter coilovers and trailing arms?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I haven't cycled the suspension yet, chassis came to me as a roller from M & M fab, Pj knows what he's doing!

I'll cycle it soon, before I build the actual trailling arms, just to double check clearances. But it should net 20"~ wheel travel in the rear, easily.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twmdodge99 View Post
God it looks so good what do you sand the panels with?
3-400 grit wet/ dry paper. If it's all scratched up, I use a grinding wheel of solid red scotchbrite. Then I final the grain with red scotchbrite by hand.

Thanks guys!

CutlerFab

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09-11-2019 08:01 PM
Twmdodge99 God it looks so good what do you sand the panels with?
09-11-2019 07:16 PM
PintoBeans Awesome work.

How much travel will this buggy be getting in the rear end with the shorter coilovers and trailing arms?


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09-11-2019 06:56 PM
waterhorse
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcutler1 View Post
Thanks!

1/8 alum solid rivets



And I thoroughly enjoy doing them.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Great work as always.

Where did you get that hexagon metal?
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