Originally Posted by waterhorse

I'm glad you keep on here. I've never been on IG and don't really want to start a new media. I tried with FB and didn't like it. (Maybe I didn't give it a chance)

Anyways, just because you might not get a lot of comments doesn't mean a lot of people are not watching. Lots of times we just want to stare in awe.

When I win the lottery, you and JR will be employed for life. I've got lots of projects in my head that I don't have time or money or the ability to to do justice to. Lol.

Originally Posted by ajm8127

Matt, you do absolutely incredible work. I read through the Manche build and just finished this thread up to now. I love that you started out of necessity to support your hobby. Not everyone has the personality to develop the metal working skills you have and even fewer can also be effective designers with an eye for aesthetics. Keep it up!

I'm in research mode for an upcoming project and look forward to following your work for inspiration. Your openness to share should be admired and it really makes places like Pirate what they are.

Originally Posted by mcutler1

That's kinda what I figured.

Only issue I had with it was in checking the straightness of the housing with an alignment bar. Had to check at the tube end at the inner C, rather than through the unit bearings.

Good work following up with questions and knowledge on your parts[emoji106].

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Originally Posted by 06silverback

Good question. -3* camber seemed to have the best adjustability for me with testing. Ran as true negative camber it’s been shown to decrease scrub radius and the bushing can be turned to achieve different combinations of neg camber/neg knuckle caster

Originally Posted by mcutler1

I anticipated that would happen, non-issue.

Cool.

Is -3° camber a standard grind for you or was that customer requested? Strictly for better street manners or some other reason.

I like a neg degree or two for go fast, just curious.

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Originally Posted by 06silverback

Sometimes the cup can warp from welding slightly and need a little on the inside to slide the bearing in. If you have any questions or any issues don’t hesitate to reach me. I’m also going to offer the upgrade to the Race Series tapered split bushing for those with existing kits.

It’s going to appear in CRAWL in the “Proving Grounds” section for new products to the market. Been talking to them nearly a year about it. It will then have an installation and performance write-up (prob Spring).

Originally Posted by mcutler1

Everything went together well. Had to put a little finish on the cup once welding was complete. Looking forward to a long term report on them.

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Originally Posted by 06silverback

Were you happy with the Balljoint Delete Kit? That’s my product so I like following up when I see it out there. I’m releasing a Race Series soon that’s got a 7075 split bushing with a taper

Originally Posted by mcutler1

Yes, appear to be from f450. Couldn't say on fitment Chris. They were delivered to me directly from East Coast Gear with the c's installed and fully welded. I installed the 05 knuckles and ball joint eliminators.

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Originally Posted by chris demartini

Nice work as usual. Are those ultimate 60 inner C's on the trail gear axles? How was the fitment of those on the tubes?

Originally Posted by GiS

Nice work as always Matt, the I-Beam/Trailing Arm fixture station makes perfect sense and as you say .. way more efficient if you can jump back and forth between both arms when welding them out.

With a heim at each end, and the shock eyes mounting above center-line, what approach will you take to prevent wobble of the arms?

Originally Posted by AccuTune Offroad

Love it, thanks for the updates!

Originally Posted by giles45shop

Thanks for the extra details, I was going to ask about that as I was starting to do some research into what was needed to start playing. Time to order some more tools

Originally Posted by mcutler1

Forgot to mention,

Solid rivets are super cheap, pennies on the dollar versus nice button or panhead fasteners and nut certs. A little more labor to do them right, but the results are worth it.

Obviously provided the panel is to remain fixed.

And I'm using Eastwood cheapo rivet set and backer bar.

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Originally Posted by giles45shop

Awesome work as usual. Your tin work always makes me want to head out to the shop and play with my bead roller some more. What did you use to secure the triangular vent on the front inner fender? I couldn't blow up the image enough to tell? I like using stainless steel button heads, but always looking for new ideas. I've benn thinking about getting the stuff to do some actual rivets for something different.