|Today 07:26 PM|
Hey look what I found
|Today 04:53 PM|
|YotaAtieToo||Ya, I remember seeing someone cut and sleeve some cv's for something and not have an issue.|
|Today 03:35 PM|
I'm pretty sure its Nissan Sentra shafts that people regularly cut and sleeve as a stronger then stock option. Even then the welded portion isnt what breaks.
I think the itty bitty steering links will buckle before the rack has issues. I just put the cheapest amazon rack one I could find on mine and it looked substantially better then the factory one I pulled off
|Today 09:38 AM|
|YotaAtieToo||On another note, one thing I was a little worried about was steering power. Surprisingly, even now locked in the front with the nobby tires at low pressure, it steered great. We'll see how the rack holds up to crawling though.|
|Today 09:22 AM|
Hopefully it won't take that long to build some arms. I may be under thinking it, but it doesn't seem to terribly hard. At least for the standards of this rig.
I still want to build a arms, but it would be nice to get out there at least a few times while I gather parts.
|Today 07:28 AM|
|2big bronco||Cut and sleeve them for now to get on the road|
|Today 05:16 AM|
|Yesterday 07:31 PM|
Well, test drive was a bust. What I feared, but ignored happened. The Toyota diff is actually narrower than the suzuki diff, which left the cv's too short. The boot seemed over extended, but I figured fuck it, see what happens. 5 mins of 2 mph and this happens.
So now, do I have spacers made or just go with t100 cv's (exactly the same but 3 1/4" longer) and make my +2 wide and +3 a arms?
|Yesterday 07:18 PM|
|Yesterday 01:59 PM|
I just love how cheap everything is. Brand new tire is $120 instead of $650
Going to see soon how it does on rock trails. Hopefully it will be fun.
Once I get it going, I really want to build some lower a arms to push the axle forward 2-3" oddly enough that wi actually make the cv's and steering line up better. I'm hoping to cram some 35s under it for snow and rocks.
|Yesterday 01:50 PM|
|snowracer||not sure how i missed this build but love it was just an event and there was a guy there with a 2 door kick on baby vtreads and it was turbo'd and that thing kicked ass all weekend. was blown away buy it for how basic it was and how well it worked|
|Yesterday 09:48 AM|
Kinda disappointed with lowrange right now. I decided to just order the last few parts I need for the sami tcase swap (intermediate shaft and Toyota driveline adapters)
I figured I'd grab the pair of limit straps too.
So for 2 ~4" round by 1/2" thick adapters and 2 14" limit straps they wanted $42 for shipping
So I said fuck that and got the adapters from zor (which was hard to find that they even made them) and with shipping it was the same price as just the adapters from lowrange. Then I got the limit straps on Amazon prime for half the price.
|07-18-2019 10:09 AM|
Got 1 side together last night, I thought I had more pics, but I guess only took 1 of how far the hub sticks out. Not terrible with the 1" spacers. Might go to 1.5" and throw the 1" in the back.
I want to put the longer struts on at the same time, but they are a little too long and the cv binds up at full droop. I'm thinking about getting limit straps.
|07-18-2019 07:23 AM|
|07-17-2019 08:41 AM|
My idea was to cut the end off the 1st Gen a arm and move it forward but it would be more work than it's worth imo.
|07-17-2019 08:13 AM|
2nd gen arms are also narrower and the pivot points are slightly wider. documented alot of this in my thread as i built the arms
use the 2nd gen knuckle if at all possible. the bump steer from factory already isnt all the great, no need to amplify it with those 1st gen knuckles. if the 1st gen spindle fits the 2nd gen knuckle, you are already well ahead since the bushing will fit. just becareful putting the bushing in, its thin and the material deforms real easy.
|07-16-2019 10:49 PM|
Pulled the 4 door back in and tore the front end apart. Turns out the 1st Gen spindles are interchangeable with the 2nd Gen. So the bushings will work as is.
I was also curious about the 1st Gen a arms since they are steel and have a bolt on ball joint instead of the stupid 1 piece cast a arm on the 2nd gen. Well the mounts lined up, but the ball joint is way further back on the 1st Gen a arm. I am really thinking about making my own a arms. It really doesn't look that complex to me. Might try to use a 7/8" hiem to replace the ball joint.
One thing that may interest some is putting 2nd Gen a arms on a 1st Gen to move the tire forward.
Another thing I noticed is that the knuckles look interchangeable, but have a few differences. The caliper ears are further out on the 2nd Gen, the 2nd Gen looks beefier in general, and the most interesting is the steering arm is way higher. Which interests me because my ends are bind before I get full droop. My plan was to just drill the knuckles for hiems and run them on top. As I type this, I'm realizing that may fuck with the toe through travel, but I'd probably never notice anyway
Got the pass side CV fitted, seems like it fits like it should.
|07-14-2019 10:08 PM|
Worked on this bastard all day today.
I used the piece of 4x4 tube that I cut off to patch the spot in the rear crossmember. Worked out well.
Pinion mount was pretty simple
The stock breather stuck up and was hitting the oil pan. I actually happen to have my burnt 60 right there with the perfect solution. You can also see how much I cut off the diff flange.
All finalized, it's tight as shit in there. I lifted the motor about an inch, and probably should have done it more.
Also did an SAS on the 2 door
I pulled all the ifs out of it and wanted it to remain a roller. I'm hoping to use the 1st Gen spindles so the Toyota cv conversion bushings I have will work.
|07-14-2019 09:50 PM|
|07-14-2019 03:14 PM|
|2big bronco||You still have the trackick tcase in it?|
|07-14-2019 12:06 PM|
Yes, I tried to smog it the last time I had a day off but the batt had died so obviously the monitors weren't ready. I didn't want to drive it around with the front driveline zip tied up, so I figured I just need to get this stupid diff in so I can drive it and have a reason to register it.
Just now got all the plates with the nuts welded on the back welded to the crossmembers. Just need to att the pinion mount and a little piece to replace the section of the rear crossmember I cut out.
|07-14-2019 08:38 AM|
Looks good, my future sidekick is coming along nicely.
Any plans of registering it?
|07-13-2019 09:36 PM|
So this is what I came up with using my (not so) broad selection of steel. Started as 4x4x.188 the plan is to weld the piece to the diff tube and then make it bolt to the crossmembers.
It will wind up just shy of an inch lower than the stock one. It looks a lot lower, but it's probably partially because the diff is bigger. It only hangs about 1/4" lower than the stock crossmember, so I didn't really loose anything. I do feel like a skid plate might be a good idea with the cover being aluminum. I'll deal with that later.
I still need to make the mount for the pinion, but that will just be a piece of plate with 2 holes welded to the side of the rear a arm mount.
|07-13-2019 03:25 PM|
|07-13-2019 02:32 PM|
He needs a new 4spd auto before he needs a locker
I'll go see what I can measure with minimal effort :flipoff2
On driverside directly under the front of the shock tower I got 3-3/4" down to centerline of cv output
|This thread has more than 25 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|