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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-11-2019 03:02 PM
BronsonJeep
Quote:
Originally Posted by charlieboyd65 View Post
The mid 90s 3/4 ton suburban had a 65" WMS full float 8 lug 14 bolt. I have one in my heep.
That's a good find - 65" front and rear would suit me nicely but I've already got a set of 60's and I'm going to just un them as-is. 69" wide front, 67" wide rear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by charlieboyd65 View Post
Linked suspensions CAN control that if set up properly. If setup incorrectly, it can create a lot of unwanted issues. Make sure you do your homework.
The guys that would be setting up the geometry for me know what they're doing. They've built and raced buggies and are all running killer rigs. They did my front 3-link and I couldn't be happier with the street and trail manners. I like working on my own shit but I also know when to pull the experts in...
04-11-2019 12:54 PM
Tipped
Quote:
Originally Posted by charlieboyd65 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tipped View Post
63"
The mid 90s 3/4 ton suburban had a 65" WMS full float 8 lug 14 bolt. I have one in my heep.
That’s great. Cab and chassis 14 bolts are 63” wms to wms. Srw 14 bolts like yours can be narrowed to 63” with c/c hubs. Look it up.
04-10-2019 09:21 PM
charlieboyd65
Quote:
Originally Posted by BronsonJeep View Post
It seems to me that there is WAAAY more purposeful geometry going on in a four link, designed to provide control of any and all axle movement, than in a trac bar for SOA.
Linked suspensions CAN control that if set up properly. If setup incorrectly, it can create a lot of unwanted issues. Make sure you do your homework.
04-10-2019 09:19 PM
charlieboyd65
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tipped View Post
63"
The mid 90s 3/4 ton suburban had a 65" WMS full float 8 lug 14 bolt. I have one in my heep.
04-08-2019 04:12 AM
BronsonJeep
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beat95YJ View Post
Length, angle, etc. similar to how a 4 link does the same.
You may be right and you probably know a lot more about this than I do.

It seems to me that there is WAAAY more purposeful geometry going on in a four link, designed to provide control of any and all axle movement, than in a trac bar for SOA. These things are advertised to control axle wrap, period.

I think with the right combo of soft springs SOA, 37x15" tires at ~20psi, horsepower, pavement traction, locked rearend, 97" wheelbase, and a boneheaded drop clutch launch from 3mph, I can induce axle hop even with a well setup traction bar.

Sort of the same vibe as the tagline in your sig...
04-07-2019 10:57 PM
Beat95YJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by BronsonJeep View Post
it's basically an off-the-shelf unit from M.O.R.E.

the trac bar is there to limit wrap... how does it limit axle hop??
Length, angle, etc. similar to how a 4 link does the same.
04-07-2019 06:53 PM
BronsonJeep
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beat95YJ View Post
If the axle hopped, your traction bar geometry is not good.
it's basically an off-the-shelf unit from M.O.R.E.

the trac bar is there to limit wrap... how does it limit axle hop??
04-03-2019 08:27 AM
Tipped
Quote:
Originally Posted by posford View Post
Chevy cab and chassis 14 bolt is 65" I think, fronts stupid easy to narrow
63"
04-03-2019 08:22 AM
posford
Quote:
Originally Posted by BronsonJeep View Post

I have a set on the way and TBH I'm gonna miss the narrower stance once they're in. If I have the $$ I'd order up a set of 65" wms somethings from one of the manufacturers but I don't.

I may shorten my ford kp60 and matching rear 60 in the future if the full width look really rubs me the wrong way.
Chevy cab and chassis 14 bolt is 65" I think, fronts stupid easy to narrow
04-03-2019 08:12 AM
Beat95YJ If the axle hopped, your traction bar geometry is not good.
04-03-2019 08:06 AM
BronsonJeep
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beat95YJ View Post
Linking the rear wonít make your differential stronger. You will break it just the same with a linked rear end as a traction bar. Upgrade your shit!
My thinking is that it was the earth shaking axle hop that caused the issue.
An 8.8 with chromoly shafts is plenty strong to roast 37" rubber without all the up and down movement.

Either way there are a set of 60's getting crated and sent my way as I type this so my shit is for sure about to get upgraded....

Quote:
Originally Posted by posford View Post
Should have just done tons
I have a set on the way and TBH I'm gonna miss the narrower stance once they're in. If I have the $$ I'd order up a set of 65" wms somethings from one of the manufacturers but I don't.

I may shorten my ford kp60 and matching rear 60 in the future if the full width look really rubs me the wrong way.
04-03-2019 07:24 AM
posford Should have just done tons
04-03-2019 07:18 AM
Beat95YJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by BronsonJeep View Post
No More Burnouts!
(until I link the rear.....)
Linking the rear wonít make your differential stronger. You will break it just the same with a linked rear end as a traction bar. Upgrade your shit!
04-03-2019 04:44 AM
BronsonJeep
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beat95YJ View Post
Pull the cover and look. If it was pinion preload, there would have been play in the pinion.
Yessir, there sure was.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Weezul View Post
The 8.8 uses a crush sleeve on the pinion unless whoever did your gears did a crush sleeve eliminator. Be careful not to crush the sleeve any more if itís still using the crush sleeve.
So I did the thing you said not to do, leading to more damage and replaced guts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3nuts View Post


Sorry. But that shits too funny
Should call this thread "How to perform a $700 burnout" lol.
Learning experience I guess.
04-03-2019 04:40 AM
BronsonJeep There was still noise at higher speeds, and around 65mph a new vibration set in.

Finally got off my ass and pulled the arb and ring gear out, noticed some scoring on the teeth. Pinion had play, bearings were shot. I replaced the R&P and bearings, had a local shop set them up.

No More Burnouts!
(until I link the rear.....)
03-31-2019 04:12 PM
3nuts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BronsonJeep View Post
I was pretty happy with the results and indulged myself in a small celebratory burnout.

After the burnout I have gear noise on coast or deceleration.

...


Sorry. But that shits too funny
03-31-2019 03:43 PM
Weezul The 8.8 uses a crush sleeve on the pinion unless whoever did your gears did a crush sleeve eliminator. Be careful not to crush the sleeve any more if it’s still using the crush sleeve.
03-31-2019 08:19 AM
Beat95YJ Pull the cover and look. If it was pinion preload, there would have been play in the pinion.
03-31-2019 06:32 AM
BronsonJeep So I disconnected the driveshaft and torqued the pinion nut, put shaft back in and went for a test drive. Much better. Still some noise at highway speed so I'm going to add a little more to the nut.
03-21-2019 06:50 PM
BronsonJeep
Quote:
Originally Posted by denverd1 View Post
any play in the pinion?
Nothing noticeable from working the driveshaft by hand....
I'm going to pull the diff apart, check pinion bearing preload, and give everything a good visual once over. Just waiting on a dial in/lbs torque wrench to arrive in the mail.
Anything else I should check out while I'm in there?
03-20-2019 12:00 PM
denverd1 any play in the pinion?
03-20-2019 05:33 AM
ky scrambled Open the diff and have a look.
03-20-2019 04:56 AM
BronsonJeep
What did I just break

After doing some work on the Jeep and getting the brakes, traction bar, and air lines dialed in I took her for a test drive.

I was pretty happy with the results and indulged myself in a small celebratory burnout.

After the burnout I have gear noise on coast or deceleration.

Yj, rear SOA, Super 88, 5.13 gears, 37" tires.

I've seen articles pointing to pinion bearing preload, others citing carrier bearing issues.

I've never set up the innards of a differential before - What should I look for here? Hopefully someone has done this same boneheaded move and has experience fixing it....

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