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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 11:52 AM
JNHEscher
Quote:
Originally Posted by [486
;44612396]

any time a detroit is run without enough load you'll get oil in the exhaust, it's just natural
I know the two-strokes blow oil from every orifice regularly. Ours is currently burning far more than it should. Huge cloud of blue smoke when I fired it up the morning we were leaving the hotel in TX and I smoked out our entire block in Alamosa when I started it up to go get plates.
Today 06:25 AM
[486]
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNHEscher View Post
Pulled all the up piping, the turbo, manifolds and compressor outlet elbow. She juicy. The need for valve stem seals here and there is evident. The turbo was obviously dumping oil out of the turbine side. I'm making my way to the center of this beast one step at a time.
any time a detroit is run without enough load you'll get oil in the exhaust, it's just natural
Today 12:54 AM
JNHEscher Pulled all the up piping, the turbo, manifolds and compressor outlet elbow. She juicy. The need for valve stem seals here and there is evident. The turbo was obviously dumping oil out of the turbine side. I'm making my way to the center of this beast one step at a time.

A few small knicks readily visible on the blower lobes. Nothing detrimental that I can see yet. A little too much backlash in the blower. I've been anticipating maintenance adjustments to every component on this since purchasing it. It's all just a matter of getting to it.

I'm not sure what I'll get around to tomorrow yet. Soon enough, I'll start measuring the exhaust for a flange layout and what pipe assortment to assemble. I kinda want to fire it up without the exhaust on so I can see if it still blows a bunch of burnt oil. I still suspect something is pooling oil in the air box after the engine is shut off. Gotta pull the drain hoses too to see if they're clogged at all.
Yesterday 09:05 PM
JNHEscher A lot going on at once. Kinda the theme of the thread, eh? Picked up a couple 1/4" NPT caps today and a fuel hose adapter with 14mm-1.5 threads is on the way. Modified the caps so that I can solder them to a copper or brass pot. I still want to test these senders to see if either one will work to control the PWM radiator fan controllers. It's a shot in the dark, but a helpful bit of info for anyone looking once I map them.
Yesterday 05:19 PM
JNHEscher Special delivery from Tom Nelson. Time to knock the Garrett off.

Edit: Had some Polaris 3/8" wheels studs next to my laptop and the turbos beside me. The wheel studs are a perfect fit on a T4 flange.
Yesterday 04:55 PM
JNHEscher
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02rexwi View Post
This would be a nice rear axle for you: https://www.govplanet.com/for-sale/P...rm=&pnLink=yes
Originally came on a BAE RG31. Might be a little light for what you're building, but it's got the right wheel bolt circle and tons more ground clearance.
I've been looking over the Pierce/Oshkosh Tak-4 stuff again -
https://www.govplanet.com/for-sale/P...,1569022811231
https://www.govplanet.com/for-sale/7...rm=&pnLink=yes

Not exactly what I would like to use, but they come up often and don't appear to be as sought after as Axletech. I would be more tempted if I could get disc brake versions that don't have Rzeppa cv's. Rzeppa's are always my preference on other vehicles. On a bus equipped with military suspension, though, replacing Rzeppa parts would be hell as opposed to double-cardan that uses a relatively standard u-joint. I'm still poking around for some Axletech 4500's while we have a bit of time.
Yesterday 01:41 PM
02rexwi
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNHEscher View Post
Stainless. Gearing up to work on the water tank pit. Took some glass cleaner, a scotch brite and half an hour of elbow grease to remove all that USPS packing tape. Some newspaper between the steel and tape would have been courteous. Moving along.

As much as I want to and as much as I don't want to, I'll probably yank the steer axle out so I have free rein to move about and weld. Now would be the time to slip an Axletech in. 4500 preferred, but nowhere to be found.
This would be a nice rear axle for you: https://www.govplanet.com/for-sale/P...rm=&pnLink=yes
Originally came on a BAE RG31. Might be a little light for what you're building, but it's got the right wheel bolt circle and tons more ground clearance.
09-19-2019 05:51 PM
JNHEscher Stainless. Gearing up to work on the water tank pit. Took some glass cleaner, a scotch brite and half an hour of elbow grease to remove all that USPS packing tape. Some newspaper between the steel and tape would have been courteous. Moving along.

As much as I want to and as much as I don't want to, I'll probably yank the steer axle out so I have free rein to move about and weld. Now would be the time to slip an Axletech in. 4500 preferred, but nowhere to be found.
09-17-2019 02:27 PM
JNHEscher
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02rexwi View Post
I use Absolute Supply a lot at work and every now and then for custom parts for myself. They are good about stocking materials and turning around parts in a few days if you're in a rush.
I find their prices have been going up, but they're still very reasonable (for their quality) in my opinion.
I've got other local shops that are cheaper, but their quality and communication are nowhere near as good.
I'll jot them down. Because we'll be highly mobile in the bus, I'd like a good list of go-to places for services such as these so that I'm not throwing money at testing out unknowns.

$225.68 shipped for all four battery cradle plates laser cut from 3/16" hot rolled. I'd spend that much trying to hack them together myself with the plasma and a file. It's on.
09-17-2019 05:09 AM
02rexwi
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNHEscher View Post
I sent them a message earlier today. Brian got back to me within an hour. Emailed him my file with specs for a quote. Hopefully its reasonable. I really wanted to support one of the online outfits that support prototyping, one-offs, and single run parts. My experience with email correspondence with other semi-local shops hasn't been the best, but I was ready to do so if SCS didn't come through.

The 1x1 ss tubing shipped out today. This is for filling in a gap on the underside of the front pit framerails where I am lowering the pit floor by 1" to accommodate the diameter of the corny tanks. With the stacks of funding now handy, we're grabbing all the materials to finish up the assemblies that are best built before the floor gets laid down. Trying our best to get the floor closed up to beat the next blizzard. Snow already hit Utah, Colorado, and Wyoming the other day. FML.
I use Absolute Supply a lot at work and every now and then for custom parts for myself. They are good about stocking materials and turning around parts in a few days if you're in a rush.
I find their prices have been going up, but they're still very reasonable (for their quality) in my opinion.
I've got other local shops that are cheaper, but their quality and communication are nowhere near as good.
09-16-2019 07:33 PM
JNHEscher
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02rexwi View Post
I know it's probably not as close as you want, but try Absolute Supply in Little Chute, Wisconsin. You'll have to email them a DWG or DXF file with your reference dimensions for scale. They typically quote in a matter of hours with very fair prices. I've never had to have them ship though.
I sent them a message earlier today. Brian got back to me within an hour. Emailed him my file with specs for a quote. Hopefully its reasonable. I really wanted to support one of the online outfits that support prototyping, one-offs, and single run parts. My experience with email correspondence with other semi-local shops hasn't been the best, but I was ready to do so if SCS didn't come through.

The 1x1 ss tubing shipped out today. This is for filling in a gap on the underside of the front pit framerails where I am lowering the pit floor by 1" to accommodate the diameter of the corny tanks. With the stacks of funding now handy, we're grabbing all the materials to finish up the assemblies that are best built before the floor gets laid down. Trying our best to get the floor closed up to beat the next blizzard. Snow already hit Utah, Colorado, and Wyoming the other day. FML.
09-16-2019 01:39 PM
02rexwi
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNHEscher View Post
Got my Battle Born battery rack DXF all set to submit and the sendcutsend.com file uploader isn't working at all. I tried a few other online laser cutters and their quote said my piece was too large. It's 8x48. I'll try Send Cut Send some more tomorrow afternoon. Until then, anyone know of another? I was hoping to try out one of these online quotes rather than emailing local shops.
I know it's probably not as close as you want, but try Absolute Supply in Little Chute, Wisconsin. You'll have to email them a DWG or DXF file with your reference dimensions for scale. They typically quote in a matter of hours with very fair prices. I've never had to have them ship though.
09-16-2019 02:01 AM
JNHEscher Got my Battle Born battery rack DXF all set to submit and the sendcutsend.com file uploader isn't working at all. I tried a few other online laser cutters and their quote said my piece was too large. It's 8x48. I'll try Send Cut Send some more tomorrow afternoon. Until then, anyone know of another? I was hoping to try out one of these online quotes rather than emailing local shops.
09-14-2019 03:01 AM
JNHEscher
Quote:
Originally Posted by DT75FLH View Post

back to page 1. where are the updates<a href="https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="" >:-)</a>
Thought somebody might ask soon. Updates are on the way. Stuff happened.

Soooo - budget has been stupid tight. Hard to build a home on $300 a month, ya know? I've been working on the house. We talked about a shop some more. Wife got a 30k loan for the shop, but we ditched that after I tallied her finances. Credit card debt is getting paid and we're throwing the rest at the bus so we can get the fawk out of Colorado.

My daily had some problems and they got worse, so I've been busy with that (and upgrading). In the meantime, we bought a mirror image pair of turbos from Nelson Racing Engines that should on their way soon. I'll finally be yanking the junk Garrett and building the manifolds. Bought a couple big drops of stainless sheet to build the water tank pit floor with and I'm waiting on some stainless less 1x1 tubing to ship from fleabay.

I think that sums it up. Pics and schtuff to come.
09-12-2019 09:02 AM
DT75FLH
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNHEscher View Post
Doing just that. I still need to order the other fan blades so that I can do the test run again. Wanted a mock-up to give me a general idea. Dart Controls PWM is supposed to be here today. Shroud clearance is likely to be after everything else is fitted up.

Agree. From front to back, I want to set it up as motors, rads, fans. That way the coolest air will pass over the motors.
back to page 1. where are the updates
08-16-2019 05:01 PM
CarterKaft Here are some pix of a Spartan RV frame with a 605 hp cummins in our truck shop.
To be honest this fan drive seems so simple I can't imagine doing it any other way but it's been so long since I've seen this thread there may be obvious issues.
Sorry the pix blow I guess I had finger prints on the lens...




08-16-2019 04:55 PM
CarterKaft
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNHEscher View Post
These are always set up with rubber gaskets on the ends that get compressed when the end tanks sandwich the cores. I won't be using that as the gaskets are the #1 failure, according to every article I've read on these.
Man I can't really agree with that. The seals are seals and can fail but it's not a normal thing and you are talking about 10-20,000 hours of full load mining operation when they do. I think your use will be much different.
Building normal tanks will be super easy for you and will make mounting etc. easy with robust steel or aluminum tanks for mounting.
08-06-2019 03:45 AM
JNHEscher Not wild about the Dart terminal block. As long as it's a good connection, it works.
08-05-2019 03:50 PM
JNHEscher
Quote:
Originally Posted by Satan's_Minion View Post
You will want to repeat your load testing with the installation as the current draw will likely increase with the pressure load of the air restriction of the heat exchanger. Tip clearance to the shroud is your efficiency so you want that to be good.

Just guessing as no idea on the specs but from my experience I think if you want to run that electric motor you will need to put it on the cold side to keep from overheating it. Most HVAC apps like what it came from are lower temp than engine cooling.

If there is no ram air consideration you are not giving up much with a pusher from a airflow/geometry side. With fixed rpm electric cooling fans most times working on the cold side is best as the fan is volumetric so you end up with a higher mass flow rate. Your setup is not brushless fixed rpm so that does not directly apply.
Doing just that. I still need to order the other fan blades so that I can do the test run again. Wanted a mock-up to give me a general idea. Dart Controls PWM is supposed to be here today. Shroud clearance is likely to be after everything else is fitted up.

Agree. From front to back, I want to set it up as motors, rads, fans. That way the coolest air will pass over the motors.
08-05-2019 08:29 AM
Satan's_Minion You will want to repeat your load testing with the installation as the current draw will likely increase with the pressure load of the air restriction of the heat exchanger. Tip clearance to the shroud is your efficiency so you want that to be good.

Just guessing as no idea on the specs but from my experience I think if you want to run that electric motor you will need to put it on the cold side to keep from overheating it. Most HVAC apps like what it came from are lower temp than engine cooling.

If there is no ram air consideration you are not giving up much with a pusher from a airflow/geometry side. With fixed rpm electric cooling fans most times working on the cold side is best as the fan is volumetric so you end up with a higher mass flow rate. Your setup is not brushless fixed rpm so that does not directly apply.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JNHEscher View Post
Pullers it is! I'm still planning to fab some cool scoops that will force some air into the compartment between the back wall and cores. That won't be as much forced air as a front-mounted radiator, but possibly enough to minimize the need for the fans to run. The PWM controllers will be controlled by the coolant temp sensors. I may have to adjust the impedance of the sensors with some fixed resistors.
08-02-2019 07:58 PM
JNHEscher Crude drawing depicting the desired arrangement. Hot coolant up the center, diverted between six cores (three on each side). First pass through the three upper cores on each side, second pass returning through the three bottom cores on each side.
08-01-2019 07:40 PM
JNHEscher
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sask466 View Post
Sorry if I missed this part, I am having a hard time keeping up! What size of motor are to using to turn that cooling fan? Did you settle on electric or hydraulic?
Data plate numbers make it a 1.5kW motor. It's the OE condenser fan motor. Four-pole brushed with a 3/4" shaft which made it the perfect fit to try the Multi-Wing fan on. Works great, so I'm sticking to it as long as the Dart Controls PWM controller does its job. This setup is working out to be much less expensive than hydraulic. More efficient, too. They'll only turn on when the coolant reaches a certain temperature and speed up when needed. Hydraulic would have been a bit of a parasitic draw as the pump has to turn any time the engine is turning. The alternator also has to turn, but will only put more drag on the engine when the sensing wire detects a draw.
08-01-2019 07:18 PM
Sask466 Sorry if I missed this part, I am having a hard time keeping up! What size of motor are to using to turn that cooling fan? Did you settle on electric or hydraulic?
08-01-2019 05:42 PM
JNHEscher There's only enough depth for one core assembly because the motor case itself is 11" long. It's all a tight fit so I'm going to cut out the upper rails that make up the shelf structure at the top of the back wall. The rails are lapped steel that is rather rusty. Much like how the rest of the rear floor and wall has been, easier to chop it out and put fresh in. I'll raise the shelf a little so the radiator assembly has room.

Six cores bunched together and bolted without gaps is 22.75" wide and 6" deep. The center support tabs on the cores are slotted. About 0.25" of play in each tab. I picked up a 1" copper union at HD today. The OD of the copper slips right in to the ID of the core ports once the rolled lip of the port is reamed off. I'm contemplating the idea of setting these up so that individual cores can be swapped in and out without removing an entire end tank to do so. 1" copper fittings are kinda pricey when you need a cart full.

Edit: I was able to get some measurements pretty easily to plot centers between ports. 3.735". I'm still torn on what to do for plumbing them together. These are always set up with rubber gaskets on the ends that get compressed when the end tanks sandwich the cores. I won't be using that as the gaskets are the #1 failure, according to every article I've read on these.
08-01-2019 08:44 AM
GLTHFJ60 If you have the depth, you could plumb two rows of cores in, with air being pulled through both sets. Run engine water through the cores closest to the puller fan first, then through the inner cores last, then back to the engine. Would help shed more heat I'd think, as the water flowing through the inner cores would be relatively cool.
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