|12-05-2019 08:27 AM|
Yea, I'd sleeve over that for sure, even with the truss. That spot is a huge weak spot on these axles. Iirc its 3" sch 40 pipe that fits over it perfectly when its sliced in half.
Plus if you need to pull the ends straight, its easy to hide the weld nuggets in that neck down spot that you add to shrink
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|12-05-2019 12:51 AM|
Thats a good trick to know with the laser 👍 The 8.4 housing narrows just the same. Heres a few shots of the truss i made awhile back. I need to cut the perches to get the truss sitting in place, but it gives you the idea.
I decided to go with radius arms because 3 link would be a ridiculously tight squeeze (IDK if possible) with exhaust/links/tcase clearance and with radius arms essentially having a built in sway bar i dont mind losing a bit of crawl ability for better high speed manners. The original plan was to actually use the FJ80 radius arms flipped to the topside of the axle but i quickly realized it wasn't gonna work for the up travel i wanted and they are far rom ideal anyways so i settled on building jeep style radius arms where the uppers are canted in towards the middle
I spent a bit of time mocking things up and humming and hawing tonight. Threw the headers on, the dana 300 mount and placed axle at full bumpish. Exhaust to upper radius arm link is gonna be tight but it looks doable. Since im planning to disconnect one upper radius link when crawling im gonna shoot for the general rule of 1/4 of tire size for link separation. More separation will give me more of a sway bar effect and better high speed manners and then i can down tune it by using a spring loaded upper radius link if i wanted. One nice thing about a radius arm vs 3 link setup is i dont need strictly vertical separation on the uppers/lowers. Horizontal separation counts too, so i dont have to go so high with the uppers.
The axle is sitting at 6” up from a ride height of 24” frame height on 37s so my goal of 5” uptravel is looking very possible
I put some 1.5 DOM in there to give me an idea of how the panhard will look
|12-03-2019 02:31 PM|
Here's a good shot from my build of the elock housing ends. They neck down just before welding to the end. You can see thr piece that I welded in there to beef it up
You can also kinda see it here too. This was when I tensioned the housing to weld it
I did not check alignment with an alignment bar. Instead I used a laser. You can check the straightness by assembling the hubs onto the axle, and place thr jack stands on the end where the hubs are (on the hubs, not onto the housing) Place the laser (i just used one of those magnetic ones that shine a dot) on the brake rotor and shine the laser at something far away. I used the wall 20' away.
Spin the housing 360 degrees. If the laser moves, its bent.
I was able to get the housing straight enough that the laser moved maybe 1/16 or less" over a 20' distance.
Just an idea if you cant source an alignment bar. I'm confident its damn close since before I could never assemble the hubs onto the wheel hubs without a hammer but I could easily get them into place loaded or unloaded.
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|12-02-2019 10:12 PM|
My incentive for doing the full float is more so the ease of servicing and so i can get home if i break a diff or shaft. It also conveniently widens my rear axle to 63.5ish WMS so i dont have run wheel spacers either. When i had the to do the rear wheel bearings on my current daily driver taco i didnt have a shop space to do the press work and i had to rely on a shop to do it. Of course it was on a long weekend and no one was open, it was a major pain in the ass and i vowed to do full float on my build.
Thanks for the detailed reply NorCal, what do you mean by an 8.4 housing holding holding up but an Elocker not though?
My truss runs all the way and will be welded to the flange inserts on the ends. I may add a brace on the front side of axle too since deflection seems to be such an issue. I plan on picking up an aligning bar for checking the axles so i can check it on the truck with it loaded too. I can always switch to a beefier housing down the road, hopefully before it wrecks my shafts. The new TG 8.4 housings look pretty good, might be in my future but not really in the budget and i figure i can make this work.
|12-02-2019 07:52 PM|
Fwiw I ran a full float kit on my last rig. It was on a tacoma elock housing.
The housing was not bent, and after years of running it I wore away the outer splines. I found that on jackstands the axle was straight. Under its own weight the housing deflected enough to wear away the splines. My theory is the stock housing is fine for a semi float since the load is spread between the carrier bearing and the end (and the error in striaghtness can be larger) In a full float, all the weight is at the ends, so a lot of load is between the perch and the end.
If its a 8.4 housing you may be ok, but if its an elock housing it wont hold up. I gusseted the top of the housing from perch to perch, and sleeved the outside of the tube between the perch and the end with some schedule 40 pipe. I ran it like this for a year or so and sold the truck. But gusseted like this the housing did not deflect.
It also helps to pretension the housing before welding the truss. Keep it tensioned while welding and release it when its cool. I did restraighten the ends after welding but it didnt move much.
Build is looking good, keep up the solid work!
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|12-02-2019 07:33 PM|
Working on getting the motor/trans mounts done. I hate the big notch that people do on the passenger side frame rail for the draglink/panhard so im planning to cut a section of frame and raise it an inch or two. Im gonna plate the outside of the frame anyways so its not much more work to plate the inside and i will incorporate the steering box mount on the drivers side too.
Im not sure how much and exactly where the cut and raise will be so i left the inside plates long for now so that i can get my motor mounts done and keep progressing with mock up. The inside plates are just tacked for now because they will be coming off again.
Its a 2 piece oil pan, the bottom of the aluminum pan is sitting flush with the bottom of the frame. Im gonna have to notch the lower steel pan. Currently the aluminum oil pan is sitting on 2x10 and the t cases are held up by a ratchet strap through the shifter hole. I was using the hoist from the side because its cold outside haha.
|12-01-2019 07:47 AM|
|11-25-2019 01:24 PM|
Thanks Scuba Tacos
I got the airbag mounts placed and welded, im just gonna add a couple gussets. I originally tacked them centered over the axle but I ended up moving them back 1” because of possible interference with the airbag/cradle to the fuel tank mount.
I built new bump cans because the ones i prefabbed just werent gonna work. Also i decided having big cut outs in the cans isnt a good idea for a daily driver in the PNW, especially if i plan to change the bumpstop heights every time i put the snow wheeling tires on. Im gonna build some caps for the top to keep mud/water/salt out.
I originally centered the rear tire in the wheel well at full stuff but i may end up moving it back 1” to match the airbag placement because i would prefer them centered and also when its time to cut the fenders out i want to keep the fuel door area intact. Not sure if i will be cutting that much out of the fenders but i would like to have that option. I dont want to move the spring hangers so if i choose the move the axle back i will just drill the spring perch ahead 1”. The axle will be getting 1.5” wider per side with the full float kit and IFS hubs so i dont think i will have any tire to can clearance issues. The bump cans was just tacked for the sake of taking pics, they will get boxed in
I checked a stock driveshaft for length and it seems i can run it as is, or 1” further back, either way will work. I will probably be running a thicker wall shaft but i want the option of throwing a stock shaft in if it should break outta town
|11-21-2019 10:01 AM|
|ScubaTacos||Nice work so far.|
|11-16-2019 04:23 PM|
It Just clears at full compression
The rears are 64” chevys. I was planning to use the factory main along with some higher arch leafs i picked up. I think i will still use them to start with, but i may upgrade to Deavers later on
|11-16-2019 10:25 AM|
Does your rear shackle clear the frame on full spring compression?
what spring are you running in rear? maybe i missed it, sorry
|11-12-2019 12:29 AM|
|Kevin82||Theres a few full float toyota rear axles out there, in my experience and from what ive read, they use the same thickness as any other toyota axle, around 3/16”. I dont think the 60 series full float is much bigger dimensionally but i could be wrong. Im gonna be adding a gusset on the backside that the runs from the diff cover all the way to the ends, so that will add some strength but time will tell if there are any issues i suppose|
|11-11-2019 05:05 PM|
|Aisin||I wouldn’t have went full float in the back. The semi float housing isn’t designed to support the weight of the truck. A factory full float housing is thicker than a semi float housing.|
|11-08-2019 08:24 AM|
Wet blasted the frame and hit it with some epoxy primer before boxing in the frame for good
Got the crossmembers in. I put a notch in the fuel tank crossmember for running brake lines, air lines etc. I had to push and pull the frame a bit to where i wanted since it relaxed with no crossmembers in there at all. Im planning to add some corner gussets as well.
Mocked up the underbed box to get an idea of how she looks. The shackles are really tight but they should just clear, i got lucky there but it will be a bit of a pain to work on the shackles
|10-02-2019 07:04 PM|
Edit. Figured out the image hosting thing!
Thanks for the motivation. I made an effort to figure out posting directly in the forum but got frustrated and gave up. I will give it a go again.
Small update. Still havent been able to get to fabbing due to circumstances but i got some painting done and figuring out the details.
I brushed the steel-it on wheels and im not really happy with how it turned out. Very obvious brush stroke. I had read that it lays down really nice once it dries after being brushed on but that wasn't the case for me. Also not happy with the color but it will do for now. It looks good in pic but its much lighter in person.
I got lucky and stumbled on the fact that the 100 series cruisers came with 10mm studs for the drive flanges rather than the usual 8mm so i ordered up some gaskets and found that they just barely cleared my 7/16 bolts that i drilled n tapped for.
I decided on running double or tripple convoluted air bags along with daystar cradles directly above the leaf spring perches and then frenching the bumpstops into the frame just behind the airbags. Im gonna run some GM bumpstops in cans to start with but it will be laid out so that i can just change them to airbumps down the road if i so choose. I carry a fair bit of weight at times for camping or work or whatever and i figure this is the best to way compensate for varying loads and uses. I plan to run a very minimal leaf pack. Probably just a 2 leaf pack along with an antiwrap bar. Might just do one leaf but idk if thats a good idea. I figure you need a certain amount of spring to help with pushing the axle downwards over the terrain. Im planning to grab some accutune shocks and im gonna pick their brain on the subject before committing to that layout
|09-15-2019 12:24 PM|
Nice work in here! keep on kicking ass. and figure out how to post pics so i dont
have to click links
|09-06-2019 10:58 PM|
A few pics from when i moved it. Rear suspension is sitting on leaf springs but the front is just tack welded on blocks so i could roll it around. https://imgur.com/a/W70jgfn
I swapped the SC400 fuel pump in place of the 2RZ one. It was 100% plug n play so that was easier than expected https://imgur.com/a/QWboCm6
|09-06-2019 12:47 AM|
Haven't got much done on the truck lately but that should change soon. My welder is at a buddys until his project is done and ive just been getting garage set up in the new place. Anyways some of my progress...
Prefabbed a t-case mount for the Dana 300. https://imgur.com/a/sHgUUf3
I suddenly realized my later model FJ80 bigger brakes might not clear my Iroks on 15”s since the 80s all came with 16s but i was relieved to find they cleared...by about 1/8” but that’ll do https://imgur.com/a/bF2yVar
I picked up a 3k psi 4GPM pressure washer to use with a wet sandblasting attachment. It works but not as well as i’de hoped. I will be using it to blast my frame and axles etc. I blasted a couple of my rims right away to try it out. These are 17” 4runner sport rims. Gonna wrap them with 34x10.5 KO2’s for daily driver duty. They have a lot of backspacing and with 10.5s i shouldn't have too much poke to attract attention. Gonna hit them with grey steel-it in the next few days. https://imgur.com/a/YwaI0O5
I picked up a pre-bent sheet of plastic for my skidplate. It came from my brothers never completed project. Its bent to wrap around the outside of the frame. It was originally for a 3rd gen pick up but evidently taco’s are the same width. Frame will get a few removable crossmembers and gussets for a nice flat bottom. When mocking up the driveline I realized a small body lift was going to be necessary to achieve the flat bottom, so i just took it out of the skid since i have an 8’ sheet and i only need a few feet. Its only 1/2” but that should be all i need to keep the t case from hitting the floor https://imgur.com/a/IUBIP8P
|06-12-2019 12:18 AM|
Hardware for the front and rear hubs were beefed up to 7/16 fine thread 12 points for strength and convenience of not using cone washers. I saw it done on pirate before but looking at the pics im not sure if its gonna clear the rotors and rims around the hub circle diameter. I will have to check that and grind bolts in necessary.
|05-29-2019 10:44 PM|
Some pics and details on the adaptor setup. 3VZ flywheel with 5/16” shaved off the crankshaft mating surface and the bolt pattern slightly enlarged. I had a spacer made for internal slave, unfortunately it was needed. Im fortunate that i have a machinist buddy who doesnt mind helping 👌 The stock slave fittings dont work and i want a remote bleeder anyways. The plan is to use AN fittings and run a couple 90° bulkhead fitting through the bell housing. I want to do hardlines from slave to the bulkhead then run stainless braided lines from there.
So far these are old pics but im almost caught up now. I havent touched the truck in awhile. Im moving into a new place with a double garage soon though 🤘🏼 So i can make some progress and get it done soon
|05-09-2019 04:22 PM|
Yeah i was gonna cover the adaptor soon. My adaptor was cheap ($300 cad) but it isnt really available anymore. Im using a North West Fabworks Adaptor. It adapts the tranny to the auto bell housing and uses a T-56 internal slave cylinder. They only made a few and they arent making them anymore. Other companys make the same adaptor plate though, albeit much more expensive. I had a lot of problems with the adaptor plate but i think its sorted now after swapping plates a few times with NWF.
Im using a machined 3VZ flywheel and marlin clutch. In hindsight i wish i would have done my own research to see if a 5VZ clutch and flywheel would work because i feel like it could work but i couldnt find any decent info online
|05-09-2019 09:28 AM|
|05-09-2019 08:43 AM|
|05-09-2019 08:30 AM|
You use your bellhousing and any R-Series transmission.
|05-09-2019 05:57 AM|
|DMG||I would like to see some detail about putting the manual trans behind the V8. I have an 03 tundra that would love a manual trans.|
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