|Today 12:29 AM|
|Kevin82||Theres a few full float toyota rear axles out there, in my experience and from what ive read, they use the same thickness as any other toyota axle, around 3/16”. I dont think the 60 series full float is much bigger dimensionally but i could be wrong. Im gonna be adding a gusset on the backside that the runs from the diff cover all the way to the ends, so that will add some strength but time will tell if there are any issues i suppose|
|Yesterday 05:05 PM|
|Aisin||I wouldn’t have went full float in the back. The semi float housing isn’t designed to support the weight of the truck. A factory full float housing is thicker than a semi float housing.|
|11-08-2019 08:24 AM|
Wet blasted the frame and hit it with some epoxy primer before boxing in the frame for good
Got the crossmembers in. I put a notch in the fuel tank crossmember for running brake lines, air lines etc. I had to push and pull the frame a bit to where i wanted since it relaxed with no crossmembers in there at all. Im planning to add some corner gussets as well.
Mocked up the underbed box to get an idea of how she looks. The shackles are really tight but they should just clear, i got lucky there but it will be a bit of a pain to work on the shackles
|10-02-2019 07:04 PM|
Edit. Figured out the image hosting thing!
Thanks for the motivation. I made an effort to figure out posting directly in the forum but got frustrated and gave up. I will give it a go again.
Small update. Still havent been able to get to fabbing due to circumstances but i got some painting done and figuring out the details.
I brushed the steel-it on wheels and im not really happy with how it turned out. Very obvious brush stroke. I had read that it lays down really nice once it dries after being brushed on but that wasn't the case for me. Also not happy with the color but it will do for now. It looks good in pic but its much lighter in person.
I got lucky and stumbled on the fact that the 100 series cruisers came with 10mm studs for the drive flanges rather than the usual 8mm so i ordered up some gaskets and found that they just barely cleared my 7/16 bolts that i drilled n tapped for.
I decided on running double or tripple convoluted air bags along with daystar cradles directly above the leaf spring perches and then frenching the bumpstops into the frame just behind the airbags. Im gonna run some GM bumpstops in cans to start with but it will be laid out so that i can just change them to airbumps down the road if i so choose. I carry a fair bit of weight at times for camping or work or whatever and i figure this is the best to way compensate for varying loads and uses. I plan to run a very minimal leaf pack. Probably just a 2 leaf pack along with an antiwrap bar. Might just do one leaf but idk if thats a good idea. I figure you need a certain amount of spring to help with pushing the axle downwards over the terrain. Im planning to grab some accutune shocks and im gonna pick their brain on the subject before committing to that layout
|09-15-2019 12:24 PM|
Nice work in here! keep on kicking ass. and figure out how to post pics so i dont
have to click links
|09-06-2019 10:58 PM|
A few pics from when i moved it. Rear suspension is sitting on leaf springs but the front is just tack welded on blocks so i could roll it around. https://imgur.com/a/W70jgfn
I swapped the SC400 fuel pump in place of the 2RZ one. It was 100% plug n play so that was easier than expected https://imgur.com/a/QWboCm6
|09-06-2019 12:47 AM|
Haven't got much done on the truck lately but that should change soon. My welder is at a buddys until his project is done and ive just been getting garage set up in the new place. Anyways some of my progress...
Prefabbed a t-case mount for the Dana 300. https://imgur.com/a/sHgUUf3
I suddenly realized my later model FJ80 bigger brakes might not clear my Iroks on 15”s since the 80s all came with 16s but i was relieved to find they cleared...by about 1/8” but that’ll do https://imgur.com/a/bF2yVar
I picked up a 3k psi 4GPM pressure washer to use with a wet sandblasting attachment. It works but not as well as i’de hoped. I will be using it to blast my frame and axles etc. I blasted a couple of my rims right away to try it out. These are 17” 4runner sport rims. Gonna wrap them with 34x10.5 KO2’s for daily driver duty. They have a lot of backspacing and with 10.5s i shouldn't have too much poke to attract attention. Gonna hit them with grey steel-it in the next few days. https://imgur.com/a/YwaI0O5
I picked up a pre-bent sheet of plastic for my skidplate. It came from my brothers never completed project. Its bent to wrap around the outside of the frame. It was originally for a 3rd gen pick up but evidently taco’s are the same width. Frame will get a few removable crossmembers and gussets for a nice flat bottom. When mocking up the driveline I realized a small body lift was going to be necessary to achieve the flat bottom, so i just took it out of the skid since i have an 8’ sheet and i only need a few feet. Its only 1/2” but that should be all i need to keep the t case from hitting the floor https://imgur.com/a/IUBIP8P
|06-12-2019 12:18 AM|
Hardware for the front and rear hubs were beefed up to 7/16 fine thread 12 points for strength and convenience of not using cone washers. I saw it done on pirate before but looking at the pics im not sure if its gonna clear the rotors and rims around the hub circle diameter. I will have to check that and grind bolts in necessary.
|05-29-2019 10:44 PM|
Some pics and details on the adaptor setup. 3VZ flywheel with 5/16” shaved off the crankshaft mating surface and the bolt pattern slightly enlarged. I had a spacer made for internal slave, unfortunately it was needed. Im fortunate that i have a machinist buddy who doesnt mind helping 👌 The stock slave fittings dont work and i want a remote bleeder anyways. The plan is to use AN fittings and run a couple 90° bulkhead fitting through the bell housing. I want to do hardlines from slave to the bulkhead then run stainless braided lines from there.
So far these are old pics but im almost caught up now. I havent touched the truck in awhile. Im moving into a new place with a double garage soon though 🤘🏼 So i can make some progress and get it done soon
|05-09-2019 04:22 PM|
Yeah i was gonna cover the adaptor soon. My adaptor was cheap ($300 cad) but it isnt really available anymore. Im using a North West Fabworks Adaptor. It adapts the tranny to the auto bell housing and uses a T-56 internal slave cylinder. They only made a few and they arent making them anymore. Other companys make the same adaptor plate though, albeit much more expensive. I had a lot of problems with the adaptor plate but i think its sorted now after swapping plates a few times with NWF.
Im using a machined 3VZ flywheel and marlin clutch. In hindsight i wish i would have done my own research to see if a 5VZ clutch and flywheel would work because i feel like it could work but i couldnt find any decent info online
|05-09-2019 09:28 AM|
|05-09-2019 08:43 AM|
|05-09-2019 08:30 AM|
You use your bellhousing and any R-Series transmission.
|05-09-2019 05:57 AM|
|DMG||I would like to see some detail about putting the manual trans behind the V8. I have an 03 tundra that would love a manual trans.|
|05-08-2019 01:12 PM|
Mocked up the 79 Bronco steering box and clearanced the sheet metal. I didnt want to run hydro assist but i wouldnt mind some extra power, and in the end i think the reversed ford box is a better fit anyways. It puts the input shaft higher to clear to the headers better and im able to keep the the front cab mount more intact since the hole i cut out is higher than it would be for an IFS box.
The local company i contacted to rebuild my steering box quoted me the same price to reverse it vs a basic rebuild so that was a bonus
When i bought the Iroks on 15s i wasnt thinking about clearing the brakes. Im going to use the FROR full float kit on a gusseted stock tacoma axle.
I mocked up my rear brake set up and it will clear by at least a 1/4” so that was a relief. Still not sure if they will clear my FJ80 front with the later model bigger brakes. The rear brake set up uses 4th gen 4runner rear rotors and mustang COBRA caliper/pads with integrated e brake. Hoping this set up works well. I can always change to the integrated 4runner ebrake from FROR if im not happy but that set up costs a fair bit more. I was originally thinking of using 1st gen taco rotors on the rear. Nice thing about the 4runner rotors is no machining/grinding was necessary on the hubs to clear and these rotors are larger diameter than the taco fronts
|04-24-2019 08:47 AM|
|04-24-2019 07:58 AM|
|stephen wilson||I like it. Curious to see the details of your rear bed box install and lid. I plan to do the same thing with my '89 eventually, possibly with the inclusion of a hidden rear winch.|
|04-24-2019 12:31 AM|
Used plywood to mock up a few different shackle lengths. iirc i settled on 9" C to C. The shackles clear the frame by 3/8" each side. I might add some UHMW for them to rub on. I will see how things look once its driving.
I was planning to french the front hanger but if i ever get Deavers or something im gonna go with a reverse eye so i couldn't french much anyways
Boxed frame with 1/8” and redid the crossmembers. I was debating using 3/16” but considering the frame is less than 1/8” in the thickest spots and even thinner on that part of the older boxed frames, it seemed overkill and way more work. Everything was cut my trusty angle grinder, it wasn't as bad as i thought it would be.
Everything is just temporary/tacked because i plan to have the whole frame sandblasted and then paint inside the C channel before i seal it up.
The rear part of factory fuel tank was held up by a strap, but that would have been a lot of work to duplicate so i sandwiched the rear flange like the earlier pickups. 1 bolt goes though the flange and the other is just there for clamping force.
|04-18-2019 11:40 PM|
Frame all cleaned up. I used sawzall as much as possible, it beats eating sparks. Diablo carbide blades are great.
Mocking up the motor. Massaged the firewall a bit and pushed the motor as far back as possible. Had to notch the valve cover to clear brake booster so i can get the up travel i want. Shooting for 24” frame height on 37s with 5” uptravel. I realized the SC400 pan isnt gonna work, even if i modified the steel lower pan. The aluminum base is just too wide https://imgur.com/a/FhMVa5k
|04-17-2019 12:02 PM|
I had more time than money initially and winter is pretty boring, so i built a lot parts rather than buying.
Im going to run chev bump stops in these cans, but they will fit air bumps when i can upgrade
I prefabbed the shackles before i was sure of the length so they were left blank for awhile. Rear shackle hangers are going on top of the frame
I made U bolt eliminator perches because im expecting a lot of trial and error dialling in the leaf pack. Im using the chevy main leaf and a bunch of thinner leaves for the rest of pack and its just makes sense imo to use grade 8 bolts rather than u bolts.
When i did the diff cover/shave, i used a string line referenced to the pumpkin to keep track of any movement. It didnt move as far as i can tell. I am planning to check it with alignment bar eventually though. The 3rd member flange did warp a bit on both front and rear axles but it shouldn't be too difficult to fix
Im relocating the crossmembers and putting a box in place of the spare tire. The box will house dual batteries, air compressors and water storage pump. I will be cutting a hole in the bed and the cut out will become the lid of the box so it will look pretty factory and be water tight. Going to use a barrel lock and some gas charged shocks to push the lid open. Ive got all the details worked out for lid sealing/gaskets, but too much work to describe so wait and see. So much welding on that box, in hindsight i wish i had half welded everything and used seam sealer
|04-16-2019 10:20 PM|
|Kevin82||PS image hosting advice...is there a way (or company) for posting pics so they show up directly in forum? Without spending $|
|04-16-2019 10:03 PM|
Ive gotten so much off pirate over the years I figured I should give a little something back.
2003 2wd ext cab taco
1992 SC400 1UZ motor
FJ80 front, 4.10 Elocker with hellfire knuckles
Tacoma rear, 4.10 ARB with full float conversion
4WU 3 link or radius arm front (TBD)
64” chevs out back
1979 F150 reverse swing steering box
Dual batteries in rear underbed storage
OBA electric pump(s)
Underbed water storage (40 litres ish) with coolant heat exchanger for showers etc.
It will be my daily driver. Im building it to be a versatile rig for crawling and hauling. I do a fair bit of exploring, camping and occasionally harder trails. I will be driving it down to moab etc once she is done.
Original plan was some 34x10.5 ATs for DD, and 37s for wheelin but i really like snow wheelin so i jumped on a set of 39.5 iroks with internal beadlocks. So now im going to have 3 sets of tires. Keeping it as low as possible with 39.5 so it doesnt look retarded with 34s. I might have to lower the bumpstops when i put on the 39.5s to accomplish this
Unfortunately i don't have a shop of my own so im using a friends shop and i have to work around its availability. My truck is currently sitting in storage but i still have plenty of prep work i can do without having truck in shop.
I bought the axles about a year or so before i found the right truck for swap and started working on getting axles etc ready. I already have a bunch of pics from build, so pics will come fast until the thread is up to speed.
Picked up front axle from a wreckers
Rear axle. When i built the diff cover i massaged the factory cover to help with clearance for my cover, hence using playdoh to check for clearance
Still plenty more pics, but thats it for today