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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-12-2019 02:02 PM
pitbullcruiser
Quote:
Originally Posted by arickvan View Post
very cool

hows the leg room with no dash?
07-12-2019 02:01 PM
mobil1syn
Quote:
Originally Posted by pitbullcruiser View Post
The tank placement was designed with tank change in mind. Tank change will be a quick drill like a tire change. I am 58 and when properly seated the harnesses run at the correct angle.
party on man ... im serious about shock tuning time.

get a turbo on that thing
07-12-2019 01:58 PM
pitbullcruiser The tank placement was designed with tank change in mind. Tank change will be a quick drill like a tire change. I am 58 and when properly seated the harnesses run at the correct angle.
07-12-2019 01:39 PM
mobil1syn
Quote:
Originally Posted by pitbullcruiser View Post
Thanks for the advice and the pic. Most of your concerns are currently being addressed. I am bringing every propane tank I can find and I will be getting contact info for the propane trucks on the lakebed. I am not messing with the bump pads again till the springs break in. I will do some more color coding on the wiring and add some frame tie in tube to the rear. Thanks again.
since you are keeping the propane, grab a buddy who would potentially go to the race with you (ie knows something about vehicles and isnt a dolt) tell him to swap your propane tank and time him. find ways to make it simpler, personally id swap the tank and spare location. looking at it getting to the tank with the number plates would be a PITA.

the other thing i noticed is worth checking out, is if your shoulder straps are high enough. unless you 5' 4" or the seats were custom made (which based on how much room is in the cab, id say they are standard ones) the slots are too low and will compress your spine instead of holding you in the seat.
07-12-2019 01:26 PM
pitbullcruiser
Quote:
Originally Posted by mobil1syn View Post
my .02

- id highly recommend going to EFI, you can always bum fuel off someone. a propane tank, not so much.
- changing a tank will take more time then dumping fuel and you are racing the clock in this class
- those bump pads concern me. they are tall and chances are the striker will slide off and get stuck under during articulation
- the rears being off center like they are will probably bend the spring plate
- budget for shock tuning, seriously like $1000 worth.
- your wiring is asking for your day to be done, clean it up and make it simple, easy to trace and labeled in the event you need to trouble shoot. in case you werent aware, they make other colors of wire besides red. if its near a sharp edge it needs protection. if you have fuses make sure they are labeled and easy to read.
- see pic below, the cage will not fair well in ass over tea kettle to the brow bar/roof situation, it will bend the long tube and junk the cage.
- it would appear you are missing gussets to be legal and some of the ones you have arent up to the task.
- wiring and plumbing are the two items regularly cheaped out on when building a race car and cause a lot of problems. its the end of the build and people are out of money from buying the cool fancy shiney items, get antsy to drive it and throw it together to 'test' and never go back to finish it. it cost a lot of money to get to the race, it would be a shame to have no fun because of you tried to save some money on something.
Thanks for the advice and the pic. Most of your concerns are currently being addressed. I am bringing every propane tank I can find and I will be getting contact info for the propane trucks on the lakebed. I am not messing with the bump pads again till the springs break in. I will do some more color coding on the wiring and add some frame tie in tube to the rear. Thanks again.
07-12-2019 01:00 PM
Provience right on, have somebody post pictures.

let me know if you want to go EFI, I still have all that stuff and it is just sitting in boxes taking up space
07-12-2019 12:55 PM
pitbullcruiser
Quote:
Originally Posted by Provience View Post
nice

are you going to be able to make reiter rock crawl?
Yea man, competing in the stock class.
07-12-2019 11:00 AM
ky scrambled This is a good build thread. Solid advice given and also taken.
07-12-2019 10:57 AM
mobil1syn my .02

- id highly recommend going to EFI, you can always bum fuel off someone. a propane tank, not so much.
- changing a tank will take more time then dumping fuel and you are racing the clock in this class
- those bump pads concern me. they are tall and chances are the striker will slide off and get stuck under during articulation
- the rears being off center like they are will probably bend the spring plate
- budget for shock tuning, seriously like $1000 worth.
- your wiring is asking for your day to be done, clean it up and make it simple, easy to trace and labeled in the event you need to trouble shoot. in case you werent aware, they make other colors of wire besides red. if its near a sharp edge it needs protection. if you have fuses make sure they are labeled and easy to read.
- see pic below, the cage will not fair well in ass over tea kettle to the brow bar/roof situation, it will bend the long tube and junk the cage.
- it would appear you are missing gussets to be legal and some of the ones you have arent up to the task.
- wiring and plumbing are the two items regularly cheaped out on when building a race car and cause a lot of problems. its the end of the build and people are out of money from buying the cool fancy shiney items, get antsy to drive it and throw it together to 'test' and never go back to finish it. it cost a lot of money to get to the race, it would be a shame to have no fun because of you tried to save some money on something.
07-12-2019 10:41 AM
arickvan very cool

hows the leg room with no dash?
07-12-2019 10:06 AM
Provience nice

are you going to be able to make reiter rock crawl?
07-02-2019 09:31 PM
pitbullcruiser Working on the co-driver area. iPad with LeadNav for finding my way through the desert.


06-30-2019 05:53 PM
pitbullcruiser Breaking in the diffs/ shakedown run.



06-27-2019 07:21 PM
pitbullcruiser
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnob View Post
May as weld those fuckers shut and call them Duke boys on over.
06-27-2019 06:53 PM
gnob May as weld those fuckers shut and call them Duke boys on over.
06-27-2019 06:19 PM
pitbullcruiser Correction, the doors kinda open.
06-27-2019 05:29 PM
pitbullcruiser
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfowlkes View Post
Those look nice! Will the passenger door open? Might just be an optical illusion..
Neither door will open now, race truck mode!
06-27-2019 03:49 PM
dfowlkes Those look nice! Will the passenger door open? Might just be an optical illusion..
06-27-2019 02:01 PM
CDA 455 Very nice!
06-27-2019 12:33 PM
pitbullcruiser I picked up some custom length sliders from XO Fab here in WA. I got them all welded up today.

06-21-2019 11:25 AM
pitbullcruiser Got my bling bling pitman arm from Sky Manufacturing and started working on the sliders.



06-14-2019 08:49 PM
pitbullcruiser Got the seats and harnesses in. I also did door bars and added some PRP triangle bags for in cab storage.



06-14-2019 06:44 PM
pitbullcruiser
Quote:
Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo View Post
You are missing out on like 5" of up travel in the the rear and at least 3-4" in the front.

You want to set the bumps for when the leaf is flat.

As it sits its going to ride like a buck board, especially once those leafs break in. It will be resting on the bumps.
Correct, they are currently being redone.
06-14-2019 01:59 PM
YotaAtieToo You are missing out on like 5" of up travel in the the rear and at least 3-4" in the front.

You want to set the bumps for when the leaf is flat.

As it sits its going to ride like a buck board, especially once those leafs break in. It will be resting on the bumps.
06-12-2019 07:11 PM
pitbullcruiser Nothing really to take pictures of lately. Filling engine oil, coolant, bleeding clutch/ brakes, filling trans/ t-cases, diffs and power steering. Tomorrow I am going to get all the air out of the steering and cooling systems.
FIRE!!!!! Extinguisher.
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