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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-05-2019 08:54 AM
Gozuki Call LKQ Canada. Their southern brethren located a matching set for close to $500 delivered.
12-04-2019 06:55 PM
F*** ROADS After some research, it looks like getting one of these to Canada is not cost effective. And the dealers here want $1132 canadian. So the only option would be getting lucky at a JY.
12-01-2019 07:47 PM
Pt_Ranger_V8
Quote:
Originally Posted by F*** ROADS View Post
Anyone know how strong these lockers are? I'm considering grabbing one of these. It would be in a heavyish rig with up to 40" tires one day. Just don't want to find one and grenade it on the trail...
For a factory locker, it's probabaly gonna be inexpensive as a takeout. Run it.
11-29-2019 06:51 PM
F*** ROADS Anyone know how strong these lockers are? I'm considering grabbing one of these. It would be in a heavyish rig with up to 40" tires one day. Just don't want to find one and grenade it on the trail...
11-21-2019 12:23 PM
Curt's_97
Quote:
Originally Posted by D_engel View Post
Did anyone ever get confirmation on whether or not you can throw an older 31 spine pinion into a 2011+ housing with a pre-2011 bearing kit? If the inner and outer pinion race diameters are the same, 3" in older Sterlings I believe, shouldn't everything drop right in?
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarolinaCrawler1 View Post
I was hoping @snowracer could help us out with this one. He is one of the few people I know that could hold each bearing in his hands at no personal cost.

On another note, if it was different between the two pinions I wonder if you could look through the bearing books and find a conversion bearing with the right od and id?
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowracer View Post
ok let me try to help but have some shitty tools here at work so be close measurements

outer bearing on 11 and up diff

race OD is 4.125 and bearing ID is 2 inch

outer bearing

race OD is 3.25 and bearing ID is 1.625
Anyone ever get to bottom of this? I've searched everywhere looking for a way to get some 5.38's in.
08-09-2019 09:55 PM
CarolinaCrawler1
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowracer View Post
ok let me try to help but have some shitty tools here at work so be close measurements

outer bearing on 11 and up diff

race OD is 4.125 and bearing ID is 2 inch

outer bearing

race OD is 3.25 and bearing ID is 1.625
Thank you so much for that! Looks like it's time to hit the bearing books....
08-09-2019 09:35 AM
snowracer
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarolinaCrawler1 View Post
I was hoping @snowracer could help us out with this one. He is one of the few people I know that could hold each bearing in his hands at no personal cost.

On another note, if it was different between the two pinions I wonder if you could look through the bearing books and find a conversion bearing with the right od and id?
ok let me try to help but have some shitty tools here at work so be close measurements

outer bearing on 11 and up diff

race OD is 4.125 and bearing ID is 2 inch

outer bearing

race OD is 3.25 and bearing ID is 1.625
08-09-2019 03:12 AM
Subybaja https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gene...-problems.html
08-08-2019 06:33 AM
CarolinaCrawler1
Quote:
Originally Posted by D_engel View Post
Did anyone ever get confirmation on whether or not you can throw an older 31 spine pinion into a 2011+ housing with a pre-2011 bearing kit? If the inner and outer pinion race diameters are the same, 3" in older Sterlings I believe, shouldn't everything drop right in?
I was hoping @snowracer could help us out with this one. He is one of the few people I know that could hold each bearing in his hands at no personal cost.

On another note, if it was different between the two pinions I wonder if you could look through the bearing books and find a conversion bearing with the right od and id?
08-01-2019 09:38 AM
D_engel Did anyone ever get confirmation on whether or not you can throw an older 31 spine pinion into a 2011+ housing with a pre-2011 bearing kit? If the inner and outer pinion race diameters are the same, 3" in older Sterlings I believe, shouldn't everything drop right in?
05-13-2019 01:25 AM
bobbywalter normal spiders.



nice deal.
05-12-2019 06:46 PM
Monstermiler That probably some type of shot preening to stress relieve the surface after machining.
05-12-2019 06:44 PM
Monstermiler Thanks for the heads up.
05-12-2019 06:39 PM
Subybaja https://www.waldorffordparts.com/oem...mbly-bc3z4026b
05-12-2019 06:27 PM
Subybaja I just got mine for $480 from Waldorf Ford in MD.

EditToAdd- Waldorf, because Sneed and the others below $500 have TERRIBLE online feedback ratings, both as dealers and parts. Waldorf didnt, and were friendly and helpful when I talked to Jerry, their internet parts guy. The 2 sellers on ebay at $530 have bad ebay feedback, and worse dealership reviews outside ebay.

Shipping to Ak was $100 since they were willing to do USPS (far cheaper up here). Shipping to Wa was showing $50.

The packing could have been better.

I'm going to get an actual amp draw later.

Are the spiders supposed to look like that? Rough cast doesn't seem right.
05-12-2019 05:30 PM
dieselboy740 Called my ford dealer and he quoted me 575$. I may do that. Everywhere wants like 80-150$ shipping
05-09-2019 10:58 AM
Dr.Danger
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbywalter View Post
or just use pass thru bulkheads on the diff cover to eliminate leakage.
I'd bet Right Stuff would seal that up no problem. I have yet to see a leak using it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Subybaja View Post
Through-hull insulated stud, for mounting sacrificial zincs on boats.

https://www.boatcorrosion.com/product-zi-series.html
The oilfield cement testing high pressure high temperature machines we used in the lab I used to work in had 3 of these in the side of the chamber to connect to the potentiometer inside. It was always fun when one at over 300 and 20,000 PSI decided to blow out the side.

We were putting them through pretty rough conditions, so I would absolutely feel good about them in this situation.
05-08-2019 06:50 PM
Subybaja Through-hull insulated stud, for mounting sacrificial zincs on boats.

https://www.boatcorrosion.com/product-zi-series.html
05-06-2019 01:52 PM
Monstermiler
Quote:
Originally Posted by Subybaja View Post
I like the idea of only one wire, but aren't you worried about putting junk metal under the cap bolt?
Good point about junk metal, actually soft metal. The Adel clamps I use are usually either steel or stainless so not worried about them being soft and losing bolt torque. However ring terminals are soft metal and not ideal for placing under the bolt head.
05-06-2019 01:18 PM
Subybaja I like the idea of only one wire, but aren't you worried about putting junk metal under the cap bolt?
05-06-2019 12:07 PM
Subybaja Well, my local idiots want $800, plus a $750 core. Nope. Ordered from Waldorf Ford. Now, waiting for Brown Santa.
05-06-2019 05:44 AM
Monstermiler If you use his wiring method you should make sure the large heat shrink you use has the adhesive inside. Lube will wick up inside regular heat shrink. Also make sure you make it long enough to go all the way thru the cord grip. He did, but just barely, I would have made it longer.

In looking closely at the video you could add an adel clamp on the bearing cap bolt to hold the wire back from hitting the ring bolts.

A word about the type of cord grip he used. If it is labeled PG# then it is metric threads, but German standards. PG7 is M12.5x1.27. Very odd size and takes a special tap.
PG stands for Panzergewinde.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panzergewinde

The cord grips are available with NPT threads so easier than locating a high dollar special tap. When tapping for NPT threads of the cord grip make sure that you tap them deep enough to compress the rubber gasket. I would use metal cord grip instead of the plastic ones.

Here is the metal cord grip I would use. Very cheap @ $16.00 for a pack of 5.
https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...(npt)/bnbcx-01

It is 3/8" NPT so a tap is not expensive and easy to get.

Me I would put an adel clamp on the bearing cap and put the tab wire connectors inside the housing.

You only really need one wire if you ground the other wire with a ring terminal under the bearing cap bolt. The ring terminal would probably be too big to pass thru the cord grip but might pass thru the pipe threads in the housing.
05-06-2019 01:07 AM
bobbywalter i would pig tail the wire. gives ya a bit of room to drop the spades.



if it were on the other side of the ring gear it would not be a issue.

but in this case it is indeed risky to use the pigtail method, so the method the guy chose in the video is likely the most cost effective solution.


those fittings are less then 30 bux and accommodate 2 wires so...
05-06-2019 12:54 AM
Monstermiler
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbywalter View Post
or just use pass thru bulkheads on the diff cover to eliminate leakage.
This is what I was thinking about but haven't found a suitable bulkhead sleeve that has a connector on each end. This way you could unplug the outside connector, remove diff cover, unplug inside connector, set diff cover to the side.
05-06-2019 12:44 AM
bobbywalter
Quote:
Originally Posted by cooleysix View Post
Skip machining/drilling the housing, skip the fancy connector with the o-ring, cut a small groove into where the diff cover seals using a grinder and cutoff wheel. Run the e-locker wire there and RTV it in place when you seal up the diff cover.

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
or just use pass thru bulkheads on the diff cover to eliminate leakage.
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