|05-30-2019 05:12 PM|
lotta speculation in here, and lots of solid info. I'd say go a bit more if the system isn't operating that great.
definetly clean and inspect the indoor evap fans. and check the coils for debris and clean if needed. check the connectivity of the sensing bulb after the evaporator. inspect insulation on the system piping. fix and replace as needed.
that defrost timer is needed to de-ice the evap. sounds like a smaller hermetic sealed compressor if it's a 120VAC unit.......
just having gauges to put on the system isn't quite enough. you could do more damage by having no low-loss fittings on them, and possibly dump the refrigerant if something goes wrong pulling the gauges off.
temp sensing meter for subcool and superheat..
|05-30-2019 11:10 AM|
|Murder Yota||I work at an institution that has at least 20 refers and freezers. We are required to maintain between 38 to 41 degrees on the refers and below zero on the freezers. None of the refers here have timers and they often run below 35. The only time they freeze up the Evaps is when the doors get left open for extended periods of time or when excess moisture is present. ie. mopping out the floors.|
|05-16-2019 12:59 PM|
As far as the coolbot, I was very skeptical at first. But it is making a believer of me. The AC unit is a 24K BTU in a 8' by 12' box. I've got about $700 in it. The compressor that failed was going to cost about the same. (And would require me to recover and reuse the freon.) I do have the equipment, so not terrible for me.
I liked the fact that I get rid of the giant inside evaporator and the outside box. (Both of which were thirty years old.) I took a gamble and it's worked for two years. I'm guessing the AC unit will fail eventually, but the Coolbot should last for years. I can replace a $500 window unit every four or five years.
|05-16-2019 10:33 AM|
|05-16-2019 08:34 AM|
As mentioned, now we use a Coolbot.
|05-16-2019 08:15 AM|
|05-16-2019 07:00 AM|
I would be more worried about a restaurant owner using a cooler that isn't working for a long time, sure the health dept or who ever yall have would love that. Here they will test the coolers temps at least once a year on inspections.
|05-15-2019 08:28 PM|
We also have a walkin freezer. It has a much more complicated system because there is no "above freezing" air to defrost the coils.
|05-15-2019 04:51 PM|
A 35 degree chamber temp (which he said it was maintaining ) will require a coil temp of less than 32. Which means defrost.
|05-15-2019 03:34 PM|
|Murder Yota||Is it a refer or a freezer? Freezers have defrost timers. Refers generally do not.|
|05-15-2019 07:03 AM|
I paid an AC repairman to come wash off my coils once... Was the most wasteful check I ever wrote. The dude could have done it with a beer in hand it was so simple. It's the first thing I check nowdays.
As for a walk-in, I swear every summer I'm going to buy one for the ultimate man-cave and put a TV and Ping-Pong table in it.
|05-15-2019 06:59 AM|
So as it tuned out the timer never did work, The circuit it was on was off and has been for"a long time" as the owner stated. Im thinking the condenser was so plugged up that it never needed the timmer?? so the story goes that it has been running 50 degrees for months and months. I repaired the circuit and got the timmer going again, all seems to be good so far.
I think by cleaning the condenser coils like I did the system was able to work properly and shed heat, then freezing the coil.
|05-15-2019 06:27 AM|
|05-14-2019 11:00 PM|
|billdacat||Dude.... you bring back nightmares of my Navy days. 60ton three compressor R12 unit cooling a computer room. Fucking condenser fans would knock you off the check stand if they were not disabled. Us squids knocked a big fucking hole in the ozone thingy... no problem and no thanks needed..|
|05-14-2019 09:32 PM|
|05-14-2019 07:32 PM|
how do you have a set of gauges without understanding the Carnot cycle?
|05-14-2019 07:23 PM|
First think I would do is check for an iced up evaporator. We normally have the timer set to defrost for 2 hours in the middle of the night. If it doesn’t have a defrost timer, add one. Make sure condenser and evaporator fans running. Next I would use a foam cleaner coil cleaner on the evaporator to get out the gunk.
If you still have a problem and don’t know the history, you are probably screwed. Most of these I’ve dealt with were changed over using Hot Shot R12 replacement. Now it’s Hot Shot 2. Since you don’t know what is really in it, it would need to be recovered and charged with a R12 replacement and hope there it’s just low. The replacements aren’t charged to a clear sight glass so you need to check your superheat.
Does this have a thermostat inside the walkin or does it use cut in/ cut out pressures?
|05-14-2019 02:52 PM|
Has the condenser coil been properly cleaned? I mean with water and probably coil cleaner if it's that nasty, you really can't get it clean enough if you're trying to blow it out with air.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
|05-14-2019 02:52 PM|
So much this, put the timer back.
|05-14-2019 01:02 PM|
|Tizken||It's most likely been charged with 409 or one of the replacement for r12. Like said above, check to see if it's iced up. A cooler defrost clock will usually shut it off for an hour once a day. 2 hours if the doors leak alot and it Frost's up more.|
|05-14-2019 12:50 PM|
[Attorney voice] "Who serviced your walk-in last?" [/voice]
And if you're doing this to make ends meet, I definitely respect your work ethic. Just be aware of the worst case scenario.
|05-14-2019 12:35 PM|
|B-rock||I understand its a touchy thing with restaurant and food and stuff. but also money is hard to come by, Thank you all for the insight the magic of cooling is starting to make sence.|
|05-14-2019 12:29 PM|
If you have a manifold gauge set, get your pressure and temps. Look online for how to calculate superheat (low side) and subcooling (high side) will tell you where if any problems you have. Its been a long time since I've messed with r-12 but I believe your low side should be in the low 20's and the high side should be in the mid 150 range. Superheat of the evap should be 5-8, subcooling should be 5-15. PM me your address and I will send you some literature.
I just sent you some info. Good stuff. It doesn't cover anything about defrost though.
|05-14-2019 11:40 AM|
Hell they might even have retrofit kit that will update the innards and make the thing run even better
|05-14-2019 11:30 AM|
|Jackie Treehorn||Iím a little disappointed. I read the thread title and thought maybe you were trapped inside of one.|
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