Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum - Reply to Topic
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Miscellaneous > General Chit-Chat > walk in cooler help
Notices

Thread: walk in cooler help Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
05-30-2019 05:12 PM
SHERPA lotta speculation in here, and lots of solid info. I'd say go a bit more if the system isn't operating that great.
definetly clean and inspect the indoor evap fans. and check the coils for debris and clean if needed. check the connectivity of the sensing bulb after the evaporator. inspect insulation on the system piping. fix and replace as needed.
that defrost timer is needed to de-ice the evap. sounds like a smaller hermetic sealed compressor if it's a 120VAC unit.......

just having gauges to put on the system isn't quite enough. you could do more damage by having no low-loss fittings on them, and possibly dump the refrigerant if something goes wrong pulling the gauges off.
temp sensing meter for subcool and superheat..

--Sherpa
05-30-2019 11:10 AM
Murder Yota I work at an institution that has at least 20 refers and freezers. We are required to maintain between 38 to 41 degrees on the refers and below zero on the freezers. None of the refers here have timers and they often run below 35. The only time they freeze up the Evaps is when the doors get left open for extended periods of time or when excess moisture is present. ie. mopping out the floors.
05-16-2019 12:59 PM
waterhorse
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bo185 View Post
You stated" not true", when in fact defrost may very well be needed. Reread the part about factors, I mentioned. Just cause it worked for you, doesn't mean it will work anywhere. And yes coolbots work, but most large (this mean fucking decent commercial size) coolers you need something alot larger than a window A/C unit, which yet again plays into those aforementioned factors.
The "not true" was in reference to Grumpy's "blanket" statement that all freezers and coolers need a defrost timer. In reviewing his post, I'm not sure he's really saying that. If he is just saying it needs some kind of defrost, well that would be true. Mine defrosted everytime the compressor shut down. If it worked for me and the previous school in Florida, I can't see how it wouldn't work anywhere.

As far as the coolbot, I was very skeptical at first. But it is making a believer of me. The AC unit is a 24K BTU in a 8' by 12' box. I've got about $700 in it. The compressor that failed was going to cost about the same. (And would require me to recover and reuse the freon.) I do have the equipment, so not terrible for me.

I liked the fact that I get rid of the giant inside evaporator and the outside box. (Both of which were thirty years old.) I took a gamble and it's worked for two years. I'm guessing the AC unit will fail eventually, but the Coolbot should last for years. I can replace a $500 window unit every four or five years.
05-16-2019 10:33 AM
Bo185
Quote:
Originally Posted by waterhorse View Post
I wasn't making a "blanket" statement. Just saying that's how our walkin cooler works and worked for several years. (It worked that way for many years in an elementary school before we bought it.)

As mentioned, now we use a Coolbot.
You stated" not true", when in fact defrost may very well be needed. Reread the part about factors, I mentioned. Just cause it worked for you, doesn't mean it will work anywhere. And yes coolbots work, but most large (this mean fucking decent commercial size) coolers you need something alot larger than a window A/C unit, which yet again plays into those aforementioned factors.
05-16-2019 08:34 AM
waterhorse
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bo185 View Post
"Freezer" will have defrost heaters. "Cooler" (35-44*) will not need heaters, hence the need for a timer in most cases, the thermostat cycling can make freeze up even worse, hence again timers. There are several factors which include box temp, door traffic, system sizing, and humidity. So a blanket statement a timer is not need is asinine in the least.
I wasn't making a "blanket" statement. Just saying that's how our walkin cooler works and worked for several years. (It worked that way for many years in an elementary school before we bought it.)

As mentioned, now we use a Coolbot.
05-16-2019 08:15 AM
Bo185
Quote:
Originally Posted by waterhorse View Post
Not true. I have a walkin cooler that the fans run 24/7. The compressor runs when needed. Yes, the evaporator is below freezing and collects some ice, but whenever the compressor shuts down, the fans are blowing "above freezing" air through it. It melts the ice, drips on a pan and drains out the side.

We also have a walkin freezer. It has a much more complicated system because there is no "above freezing" air to defrost the coils.
"Freezer" will have defrost heaters. "Cooler" (35-44*) will not need heaters, but will need for a timer in most cases, the thermostat cycling can make freeze up even worse, hence again timers. There are several factors which include box temp, door traffic, system sizing, and humidity. So a blanket statement a timer is not need is asinine in the least.
05-16-2019 07:00 AM
Bo185
Quote:
Originally Posted by B-rock View Post
So as it tuned out the timer never did work, The circuit it was on was off and has been for"a long time" as the owner stated. Im thinking the condenser was so plugged up that it never needed the timmer?? so the story goes that it has been running 50 degrees for months and months. I repaired the circuit and got the timmer going again, all seems to be good so far.

I think by cleaning the condenser coils like I did the system was able to work properly and shed heat, then freezing the coil.
Also make sure the Evaporator coils inside are clean, the inside fans work, and the drip condensate pan is clean and dip lines are free. If you can't get air flow across evp either then its pissing in the wind too. Also if the evap drip pan holds water it ups the humidity and makes the freeze ups worse more often.

I would be more worried about a restaurant owner using a cooler that isn't working for a long time, sure the health dept or who ever yall have would love that. Here they will test the coolers temps at least once a year on inspections.
05-15-2019 08:28 PM
waterhorse
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy356 View Post
Call it a freezer, call it a cooler, it doesnít matter,

A 35 degree chamber temp (which he said it was maintaining ) will require a coil temp of less than 32. Which means defrost.
Not true. I have a walkin cooler that the fans run 24/7. The compressor runs when needed. Yes, the evaporator is below freezing and collects some ice, but whenever the compressor shuts down, the fans are blowing "above freezing" air through it. It melts the ice, drips on a pan and drains out the side.

We also have a walkin freezer. It has a much more complicated system because there is no "above freezing" air to defrost the coils.
05-15-2019 04:51 PM
Grumpy356
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murder Yota View Post
Is it a refer or a freezer? Freezers have defrost timers. Refers generally do not.
Call it a freezer, call it a cooler, it doesnít matter,

A 35 degree chamber temp (which he said it was maintaining ) will require a coil temp of less than 32. Which means defrost.
05-15-2019 03:34 PM
Murder Yota Is it a refer or a freezer? Freezers have defrost timers. Refers generally do not.
05-15-2019 07:03 AM
Gittinwidit I paid an AC repairman to come wash off my coils once... Was the most wasteful check I ever wrote. The dude could have done it with a beer in hand it was so simple. It's the first thing I check nowdays.

As for a walk-in, I swear every summer I'm going to buy one for the ultimate man-cave and put a TV and Ping-Pong table in it.
05-15-2019 06:59 AM
B-rock So as it tuned out the timer never did work, The circuit it was on was off and has been for"a long time" as the owner stated. Im thinking the condenser was so plugged up that it never needed the timmer?? so the story goes that it has been running 50 degrees for months and months. I repaired the circuit and got the timmer going again, all seems to be good so far.

I think by cleaning the condenser coils like I did the system was able to work properly and shed heat, then freezing the coil.
05-15-2019 06:27 AM
det107
Quote:
Originally Posted by brewchief View Post
Has the condenser coil been properly cleaned? I mean with water and probably coil cleaner if it's that nasty, you really can't get it clean enough if you're trying to blow it out with air
So much this... Cleaning out the refrigeration unit(s) is a neglected job. It does get dirty depending on traffic; open/close door, sneaking in a cigarette smoke & storing dusty stuff-
05-14-2019 11:00 PM
billdacat Dude.... you bring back nightmares of my Navy days. 60ton three compressor R12 unit cooling a computer room. Fucking condenser fans would knock you off the check stand if they were not disabled. Us squids knocked a big fucking hole in the ozone thingy... no problem and no thanks needed..
05-14-2019 09:32 PM
Thatg9659
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bo185 View Post
Those old systems with timers are designed to defrost the evaporator. They turn the compressor off every 2-3 hrs for 10-15 mins then back on.

So the evaporator may be freezing up, temp in cooler then gets warm it thaws out then starts working. I bet that is the case reconnect timer and make sure its set and evaporator isn't freezing up. Should have a temp bulb on the the evaporator as well to the thermostat make sure its in right location.

Also make sure the condenser fan out side is blowing air over coils and not just loose on shaft too.
17 years in the food biz, Bo185 is spot on about the timer.
05-14-2019 07:32 PM
IEATRKS84
Quote:
Originally Posted by B-rock View Post
I understand its a touchy thing with restaurant and food and stuff. but also money is hard to come by, Thank you all for the insight the magic of cooling is starting to make sence.
how............


how do you have a set of gauges without understanding the Carnot cycle?
05-14-2019 07:23 PM
wizard_Drd First think I would do is check for an iced up evaporator. We normally have the timer set to defrost for 2 hours in the middle of the night. If it doesn’t have a defrost timer, add one. Make sure condenser and evaporator fans running. Next I would use a foam cleaner coil cleaner on the evaporator to get out the gunk.

If you still have a problem and don’t know the history, you are probably screwed. Most of these I’ve dealt with were changed over using Hot Shot R12 replacement. Now it’s Hot Shot 2. Since you don’t know what is really in it, it would need to be recovered and charged with a R12 replacement and hope there it’s just low. The replacements aren’t charged to a clear sight glass so you need to check your superheat.

Does this have a thermostat inside the walkin or does it use cut in/ cut out pressures?
05-14-2019 02:52 PM
brewchief Has the condenser coil been properly cleaned? I mean with water and probably coil cleaner if it's that nasty, you really can't get it clean enough if you're trying to blow it out with air.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
05-14-2019 02:52 PM
welndmn
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tizken View Post
It's most likely been charged with 409 or one of the replacement for r12. Like said above, check to see if it's iced up. A cooler defrost clock will usually shut it off for an hour once a day. 2 hours if the doors leak alot and it Frost's up more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bo185 View Post
Those old systems with timers are designed to defrost the evaporator. They turn the compressor off every 2-3 hrs for 10-15 mins then back on.

So the evaporator may be freezing up, temp in cooler then gets warm it thaws out then starts working. I bet that is the case reconnect timer and make sure its set and evaporator isn't freezing up. Should have a temp bulb on the the evaporator as well to the thermostat make sure its in right location.

Also make sure the condenser fan out side is blowing air over coils and not just loose on shaft too.

So much this, put the timer back.
05-14-2019 01:02 PM
Tizken It's most likely been charged with 409 or one of the replacement for r12. Like said above, check to see if it's iced up. A cooler defrost clock will usually shut it off for an hour once a day. 2 hours if the doors leak alot and it Frost's up more.
05-14-2019 12:50 PM
cj5.5
Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Cautionary tail about trying to help people. I know a guy that was in a bar band that was playing a gig in a restaurant/bar back in the 80's. There was a mouse in the kitchen and he went and killed it with a broom handle under the stove. The place burned to the ground about 5am the next morning. lots of hassle
I remember when I was in trucking one of our guys had the rear brakes lock up and flop it off the road leaving a stop light. No other vehicles, nobody hurt. It was about -25* and the air dryer froze up. Turns out the heater element failed. One of the insurance companies went after the last guy who serviced the brakes, some 3 months/30k miles before.

[Attorney voice] "Who serviced your walk-in last?" [/voice]

And if you're doing this to make ends meet, I definitely respect your work ethic. Just be aware of the worst case scenario.
05-14-2019 12:35 PM
B-rock I understand its a touchy thing with restaurant and food and stuff. but also money is hard to come by, Thank you all for the insight the magic of cooling is starting to make sence.
05-14-2019 12:29 PM
BIG-O If you have a manifold gauge set, get your pressure and temps. Look online for how to calculate superheat (low side) and subcooling (high side) will tell you where if any problems you have. Its been a long time since I've messed with r-12 but I believe your low side should be in the low 20's and the high side should be in the mid 150 range. Superheat of the evap should be 5-8, subcooling should be 5-15. PM me your address and I will send you some literature.


I just sent you some info. Good stuff. It doesn't cover anything about defrost though.
05-14-2019 11:40 AM
Doc Holiday13
Quote:
Originally Posted by B-rock View Post
as in? can you give me a little more to go on here?

I saw it was setup on a timmer that would kill power at night. we dissabled that so It will run all the time. Looks like its a 110V unit??
manufacturers spec for coolant type, capacity, wiring diagram to possibly show something you're missing(ie a temp switch or pressure switch)

Hell they might even have retrofit kit that will update the innards and make the thing run even better
05-14-2019 11:30 AM
Jackie Treehorn Iím a little disappointed. I read the thread title and thought maybe you were trapped inside of one.
This thread has more than 25 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.