|09-22-2019 10:04 AM|
Most of what I replaced was not due to mileage but age.
Nothing lasts forever, even if it sits unused.
These old explorers are among what I consider some of the last legit 4x4 people haulers. Cab on chassis, solid rear axle, locking hubs, xfer case, and a bulletproof motor.
They certainly have their quarks though, as well as the silly TTB front end.
But even it is solid in stock form. And in this platform perform well.
|09-22-2019 10:03 AM|
|09-22-2019 09:47 AM|
|bigun||Mom had a 93 Explorer, my brother's daughters ran the wheels off of it, to which their parents bought her a new 2007 it now has a 194K on the odometer. I have no idea what the 93 had on it, transfer case quit and even the guys at the 4 wheel shop couldn't get it to work, near the end mom was the only one that could get it to shift into OD, but she drove it all over NM, Az and TX visiting family. Tires, oil changes, a set of shocks, front springs and replacement of some part of the A/C (can't forget that because there was a problem with the radio ever after hit a bump and it would go off, and you had to thump the dash to get it back on.) Those are the only things I know that were done to the 93.|
|09-22-2019 09:17 AM|
I might be able to do that sometime this fall.
Im in the middle of projects at the moment though.
Just finished up prepping the "beater" Explorer for winter duties.
And I have a house remodel up next.
Further I dig into this thing the more I like it.
Always loved the first gen explorers.
I feel real fortunate to have found one that wasnt beat to shit and/or rusted out.
Zero rust on this one. Even swapping out the rear leafs, All it took was a breaker bar to crack loose the nuts/bolts and things came apart no worries.
Didnt even have to replace leaf spring bolts, or axle U-bolts.
This thing is pretty clean. Still needs a few things, but very close to 100%
Certainly doesnt look it, but Ive got $1200 and 20+ hrs of labor into it at this point.
The valve covers, intake manifold, oil pan, low oil level sensor, were all leaking. And had been for a LONG time.
I used up 4 gallons of superclean & hours on the pressure washer on this...
Front Wheel bearings
Front Coil springs
Axle Pivot bushings
Manual Locking Hubs (OEM junkyard set)
Oil pan gasket
Low oil level sensor (deleted)
Vale covers gaskets (glue'd w/ toyota black RTV)
Intake manifold gaskets
Coolant temp sensor (gauge)
Now just have to get it off to get aligned
What it still needs...
Front passenger and drivers rear window motors.
Replace the cracked hood deflector
Sort out AC system (not working)
Passenger door pin bushings
|08-27-2019 08:19 AM|
Kenny, this might be a lot to ask, but could you do a video tour of the whole setup as it is now?
|08-27-2019 08:12 AM|
|08-26-2019 11:13 PM|
Shakedown trip went great.
And was able to nab a few good shots backpacking.
Some unreal alpine glow at one of the lakes this trip
|08-26-2019 09:45 PM|
Still considering it though, along with some custom cradles to allow the suspension to droop without overextending the bags.
|08-26-2019 09:38 PM|
For 6200# on the rear (3100 per tire), SRW, these tires call for 55PSI
|08-25-2019 10:36 AM|
|WOODZUK||What about reducing the overall travel of the bags, in other words lifting or putting a spacer block under or above them so that the top an bottom are closer together and you get more lift with less air pressure? I used to work at a shop and install lift kits on rigs with bags and we would have to install lift pucks from the air bag manufacturer's in order for the bags to be in the right positions to work. Just a thought and fairly inexpensive, more time consuming then anything else.|
|08-25-2019 09:38 AM|
Hey, did you find an inflation table for those tires? That seems like a lot of weight on the rear axle for only 55 psi. I don't know what size your tires are, but Michelin would tell you that you need something closer to 70psi in the rear tires for a 275/70/18.
Edit--went back and found your weights. Looks like they'd tell you 65.
|08-16-2019 04:12 PM|
Thought about it, but since I'm already at add-a-leafs + bags, I may as well just swap out the (probably) soggy OEM leafs, ditch the add-a-leaf, and go with a fresh high(er) capacity leaf pack.
Just dont want to spend any more at this point, not just yet
|08-16-2019 12:57 PM|
You could always do a 1" block in the rear, or zero rate as the kids are calling them. Might be a good compromise of minimal height and lower bag pressure to keep the ride good.
|08-16-2019 11:42 AM|
|IDASHO||Leveling blocks were added to provide a touch more clearance to run chains.|
|08-16-2019 08:02 AM|
I personally think leveling kits are for trucks that don't get used as trucks. If your front tires fit without it, there's no need to run it. Trucks are designed with a rake so they level out when loaded, why mess with that. Everyone that I have known that put a leveling kit on their truck ended up with bags to level the rear once they put something in the bed. That is counter-intuitive to me.
|08-15-2019 05:15 PM|
The angle of the photo helps. Bags are also @ 80PSI, and we are still shy of a decent amount of weight.
Ill run it as is, and see how it does. If the front end settles with the weight of the bumper and winch, I think Ill be okay. If not, Id much rather loose some height out the of the front (remove leveling blocks) then go to different leafs.
It wouldnt cost me a penny, and tossing brand new leafs on anything is always a gamble, if you are particular about right height as I am
|08-15-2019 06:38 AM|
|GLTHFJ60||Looks just killer man.|
|08-15-2019 05:17 AM|
Looks great! Excited to hear about the shakedown run. The front to rear leveling in the pics looks good to me. It seems like it's more about bed design than sag in that last pic--the bed looks like it's simply not cut as high as the front fender. But the running boards look perfectly level...
I'm sure there's a difference between a pic and the in-person view. But do you think another person would tell you it's squatted, or is it just your view?
|08-14-2019 09:57 PM|
Well, together enough for its first shake down trip.
Still not too excited about the ride height front to rear. Rear is still lower than Id like (relative to front)
But I really dont want to increase height any more.
So currently considering removing the front leveling blocks to bring things back into spec.
but for now Ill run it. The big bumper and winch might suck the front down a bit after some road time.
|08-13-2019 04:15 PM|
Personally, Ive yet to have any significant problems with the mid 90's autos.
Certainly not the best, but FAR from the worst. That's including multiple high mileage explorers, a ranger, as well as the OBS powerstroke thats still in my fleet. It has near 300k on it, I picked it up around 200k, have zero service records for the E40D, and it runs and shifts great.
This Explorer is high mileage as well. Shifts are solid and fluid smells great.
Zero reason to worry.
|08-13-2019 11:18 AM|
Those Explorers were nice little rigs.
The achilles heel of all Ford products of that vintage is the lousy automatic transmission. I don't know how many of those got sidelined due to a dead transmission.
If you want a reliable daily driver I would spend some time on making sure the transmission doesn't leave you stopped by the side of the road in the middle of the winter.
|08-12-2019 05:52 PM|
Yes, provided the valve is in the correct orientation, and the switch is in the ON position, then the in-cab switch can/will control transfering fuel from AUX to main while driving.
Though Im certain that will toss any "Miles until empty" and estimated MPG readings right out the window.
I didnt design it specifically to work while in motion, but it certain can work that way.
|08-12-2019 06:53 AM|
That mobile fill setup for the aux tank is pretty damn cool.
Can the aux tank transfer to the main tank while riding down the road? Seems like you'd have to pull over and manually transfer fuel from aux-->main if your main runs low on a long stretch of highway.
|08-11-2019 06:14 PM|
And the business end of the fuel fillers and aux tank controls.
Upper filler is for main tank.
Lower for aux tank.
Lower filler has LED indicator (lit when in cab switch is in ON position)
Only then will the switch to the right of the indicator work, turning on the fuel pump. Pump is a facet cube 12v pump.
Upper filler has fuel valve control that controls flow of aux fuel tank.
One position will transfer fuel from AUX to main tank.
Opposite position will allow the use of the fuel fill hose, to fuel a generator, motorcycle, whatever.
Middle position (down) is off.
|08-11-2019 06:09 PM|
Sometimes work isnt totally productive....
Last week I fabbed and installed this "flush" andersen connector into the front wall of the camper. This is a 200A rated connector that ties the truck battery to the camper house bank.
Seems my tape measure let me down. To be perfect, it has to move over about an inch and a half.
Cable and truck end of the circuit mount here when not in use with the camper.
Yes, thats a cake pan and a 5" round threaded boat access panel
Missed it by that much.....
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