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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-30-2019 07:15 PM
xjtony Get a divorced 205 for a cheaper option of making this work. Factory case will work like a doubler. Driveline problem solved.
06-29-2019 08:14 AM
Elwenil
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenfred10 View Post
Yeah, I was really caught off guard when I went on a few of the websites that sell these transfer cases......not what I was expecting at all!
I didn't think they'd be cheap butt, holy!............
It gets worse, some of the transfer cases for rock crawling are in the $5k range. If you can't do the work yourself, even a rebuilt NP205 can be well over $1k. Much more with upgrades.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenfred10 View Post
Lots of good info here that I was unaware of.
Fortunately our local junkyard if we find any of those axles they all will be the same price.....very possible even cheaper being my husband is friends with them and they always hook him up haha.
Just looked it up...... truck axles with core charge are $130.

I was also kind of thinking the same thing. I have been seeing complete trucks with these axles quite cheap!
I'd verify what they mean by "axles". They could mean just axle shafts or they probably have piles of old rear axles laying around that aren't worth much. Front axles, especially an older kingpin D60 are usually at least in the $600-$1000 range in used core condition. Due to that most places that would have sold them cheap would have been picked clean long ago. Around here I usually buy a complete truck to get a front D60 as it's usually more economical that way since I can get the truck for not much more than what the D60 goes for and part out or scrap the rest.
06-28-2019 11:21 PM
Jenfred10
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4seasons View Post
Short answer "yes."

A truck doesn't know what brand it is nor does it care what the axle/transmission/transfer case came from, unless it is a new computer control everything truck. Stuff like antilock brakes, transmission shift points, and electronic speed sensors complicate drivetrain swaps. But your truck is old enough it shouldn't have any of those things.

When Chevy switched to IFS in 88 they changed from a passenger side differential and transfer case to a driver's side. Dodge did the same thing in 94 when they changed body style and went to coil springs. Ford has always been driver's side drop regardless of solid axle, TTB, IFS, coil or leaf spring. So unless you want to custom order an axle for your truck, you should be looking for pre 88 GM and pre 94 Dodge one tons. You may still run into spring perch differences and definitely lots of brake, hub and track width options, but anything knuckle out is easy to swap. My experience is that junkyards want a premium for front Dana 60's. Sometimes I can find a complete truck for sale locally for what people think just the axle is worth. I have also had luck responding to "free to someone willing to haul it off" ads. Also when I buy a car/truck or even tractor from an individual I look around for other parts I might get them to include in the deal. If you are having trouble finding a Dana 60 you just haven't been to enough farms with old trucks sitting around.
Lots of good info here that I was unaware of.
Fortunately our local junkyard if we find any of those axles they all will be the same price.....very possible even cheaper being my husband is friends with them and they always hook him up haha.
Just looked it up...... truck axles with core charge are $130.

I was also kind of thinking the same thing. I have been seeing complete trucks with these axles quite cheap!
06-28-2019 11:14 PM
Jenfred10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elwenil View Post
In addition, the short distance from the transfer case to the front axle and the extreme lift on trucks like this make it near impossible to have a front driveshaft as the angles are more than a U-joint can take. This is why most of the better built trucks like this will use a transfer case that drops straight down like an SCS or similar, but you are looking at a couple grand for the transfer case alone.
Yeah, I was really caught off guard when I went on a few of the websites that sell these transfer cases......not what I was expecting at all!
I didn't think they'd be cheap butt, holy!............
06-28-2019 11:10 PM
Jenfred10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aisin View Post
People convert 2wd trucks because they are cheaper to buy and usually not as beat as a 4wd truck.
Never thought of that.....that's makes sense though.
06-28-2019 10:09 PM
Jenfred10
Quote:
Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla View Post
This is just an idea but you could possibly fix a couple issues in 1 go here. Instead of throwing an older chevy 1 ton Dana 60 under it and dealing with the passenger drop transfer case, lowering suspension hangers and buying new leaf spring to replace broken one just to end up with a similar setup to current one why not buy a pair of 05+ ford F250-F350 axles? This would get you a easy setup for link or radius arm front suspension that you can go sky high with and still have decent ride, it also gets you a strong front axle that was built and has parts made within the past 30 years along with better steering\brakes. I know you havent gotten your wheels yet so the 8x170 bolt pattern wont be big deal since you can just have wheels made in that pattern. If you didnt already buy the 16.5 tires I would have suggested F550 Super60 front and dana 110 or 135 rear which are insanely strong but require a 18+ wheel easily unless you have very little backspacing to place where wheel is out past the brakes.
I am going to send you a pm. Not sure I understand everything.
06-27-2019 03:21 PM
350TacoZilla This is just an idea but you could possibly fix a couple issues in 1 go here. Instead of throwing an older chevy 1 ton Dana 60 under it and dealing with the passenger drop transfer case, lowering suspension hangers and buying new leaf spring to replace broken one just to end up with a similar setup to current one why not buy a pair of 05+ ford F250-F350 axles? This would get you a easy setup for link or radius arm front suspension that you can go sky high with and still have decent ride, it also gets you a strong front axle that was built and has parts made within the past 30 years along with better steering\brakes. I know you havent gotten your wheels yet so the 8x170 bolt pattern wont be big deal since you can just have wheels made in that pattern. If you didnt already buy the 16.5 tires I would have suggested F550 Super60 front and dana 110 or 135 rear which are insanely strong but require a 18+ wheel easily unless you have very little backspacing to place where wheel is out past the brakes.
06-27-2019 09:04 AM
4seasons
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenfred10 View Post
So I should figure out what transfer case is in it then?
When you say " If the transfer case is from an older model Chevy then you need an axle from one as well."
Is that for the reasoning of what side the axle drop is on?
Short answer "yes."

A truck doesn't know what brand it is nor does it care what the axle/transmission/transfer case came from, unless it is a new computer control everything truck. Stuff like antilock brakes, transmission shift points, and electronic speed sensors complicate drivetrain swaps. But your truck is old enough it shouldn't have any of those things.

When Chevy switched to IFS in 88 they changed from a passenger side differential and transfer case to a driver's side. Dodge did the same thing in 94 when they changed body style and went to coil springs. Ford has always been driver's side drop regardless of solid axle, TTB, IFS, coil or leaf spring. So unless you want to custom order an axle for your truck, you should be looking for pre 88 GM and pre 94 Dodge one tons. You may still run into spring perch differences and definitely lots of brake, hub and track width options, but anything knuckle out is easy to swap. My experience is that junkyards want a premium for front Dana 60's. Sometimes I can find a complete truck for sale locally for what people think just the axle is worth. I have also had luck responding to "free to someone willing to haul it off" ads. Also when I buy a car/truck or even tractor from an individual I look around for other parts I might get them to include in the deal. If you are having trouble finding a Dana 60 you just haven't been to enough farms with old trucks sitting around.
06-27-2019 06:59 AM
Elwenil In addition, the short distance from the transfer case to the front axle and the extreme lift on trucks like this make it near impossible to have a front driveshaft as the angles are more than a U-joint can take. This is why most of the better built trucks like this will use a transfer case that drops straight down like an SCS or similar, but you are looking at a couple grand for the transfer case alone.
06-27-2019 05:51 AM
Aisin
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenfred10 View Post
So I should figure out what transfer case is in it then?
When you say " If the transfer case is from an older model Chevy then you need an axle from one as well."
Is that for the reasoning of what side the axle drop is on?

Also I do know if I were to put a front drive shaft on , everything would line up and is in the correct location.
But, yes 4 wheel drive is a must!!

Never understood why some people have these big lifted trucks and either make them out of 2 wheel drive trucks and leave them that way or never finish the 4wd And ultimately have a 2wd truck.
Doesn't make sense.
People convert 2wd trucks because they are cheaper to buy and usually not as beat as a 4wd truck.
06-26-2019 09:05 PM
Jenfred10
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4seasons View Post
If it still has the factory tranny and case it will be driver's side drop and need a Ford Dana 60. If the transfer case is from an older model Chevy then you need an axle from one as well. This of course is assuming that you want four wheel drive.
So I should figure out what transfer case is in it then?
When you say " If the transfer case is from an older model Chevy then you need an axle from one as well."
Is that for the reasoning of what side the axle drop is on?

Also I do know if I were to put a front drive shaft on , everything would line up and is in the correct location.
But, yes 4 wheel drive is a must!!

Never understood why some people have these big lifted trucks and either make them out of 2 wheel drive trucks and leave them that way or never finish the 4wd And ultimately have a 2wd truck.
Doesn't make sense.
06-26-2019 08:59 PM
Jenfred10 You guys are really giving some good info and I'm learning !
The truck with 44's and 5:13 gears seems to have a lot of power. I have no idea how much power the Chevy 400 engine makes, but it seems pretty healthy. I'm planning at this point sticking with the same gear ratio with the 49's.
06-26-2019 08:53 PM
Jenfred10 I do know it is a manual 5 speed, the transfer case has definitely been changed and the 4 wheel drive shifter is now to the right of the 5 speed shifter and completely different than the factory shifter for 4wd.

There is no front drive shaft because the truck wasn't finished when we bought it.
But the axle drop is on the right ( passenger side)
06-26-2019 12:44 PM
4seasons If it still has the factory tranny and case it will be driver's side drop and need a Ford Dana 60. If the transfer case is from an older model Chevy then you need an axle from one as well. This of course is assuming that you want four wheel drive.
06-26-2019 10:37 AM
xjtony Yeah the ifs trucks where driver drop tcases. So that might be the case
06-26-2019 10:21 AM
Elwenil By the pics the axle in there now is a passenger side drop, but in typical "big gay truck" fashion, there is no front driveshaft, so it's hard to say what else in under there. It honestly would not surprise me if there were no transfer case at all or a driver side drop one in it, lol.
06-26-2019 08:56 AM
Beat95YJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenfred10 View Post
Ok, that should be too bad and until a few days ago our junkyard was right besides our property.
My husband knows the guys that work there so he pays next to nothing usually for parts......,
Next on our list is front axle assembly........we are going to put a 1 ton in first. I have no idea why they used a 3/4 front axle. Not quite sure what truck to look for to buy one from?
I really appreciate all the guidance you are giving us.
What side is your front driveshaft on? Makes a big difference.
06-26-2019 08:44 AM
xjtony
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenfred10 View Post

Ok, that should be too bad and until a few days ago our junkyard was right besides our property.
My husband knows the guys that work there so he pays next to nothing usually for parts......,
Next on our list is front axle assembly........we are going to put a 1 ton in first. I have no idea why they used a 3/4 front axle. Not quite sure what truck to look for to buy one from?
I really appreciate all the guidance you are giving us.
80’s model Chevy 1 ton Dana 60 front axle, Chevy CUCV military truck Dana 60 fronts is what you find for sale. That’s the ones to get as they are all geared 4.56 and maybe Detroit lockers in them. Don’t buy a dually axle because single rear wheel hubs can get expensive.
Although there are folks that can take dually front hubs and machine them down to singe rear wheel hubs. But the new wheel mounting flange is actually the brake rotor mount and not really designed for that. But it does work in the off-road world. I would not run it on the street though for fear of killing the bus load of nuns and chilrenz.
Google “DRW Dana 60 hub machining” or “difference between Srw and Drw Dana 60 hub” to see what I’m talking about.
06-25-2019 08:53 PM
Jenfred10
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4seasons View Post
88+ model trucks with IFS came from the factory with a sway bar. It should be easy to find in a junkyard but make sure you get all the mounts and bushings as well. Depending on how the SAS was done on your truck you probably will have to fab up some upper mount locations, will definitely have to make some lower mount points and some links to connect them.
Maybe someone else knows if a kit, but I am unaware of one. Regardless there is going to be some level of fabrication required.
Ok, that should be too bad and until a few days ago our junkyard was right besides our property.
My husband knows the guys that work there so he pays next to nothing usually for parts......,
Next on our list is front axle assembly........we are going to put a 1 ton in first. I have no idea why they used a 3/4 front axle. Not quite sure what truck to look for to buy one from?
I really appreciate all the guidance you are giving us.
06-25-2019 07:51 AM
4seasons 88+ model trucks with IFS came from the factory with a sway bar. It should be easy to find in a junkyard but make sure you get all the mounts and bushings as well. Depending on how the SAS was done on your truck you probably will have to fab up some upper mount locations, will definitely have to make some lower mount points and some links to connect them.
Maybe someone else knows if a kit, but I am unaware of one. Regardless there is going to be some level of fabrication required.
06-24-2019 09:32 PM
Jenfred10 Possible another dumb question lol ......
Is there some way to make a sway bar or do they sell them?
Seems as if I have read about custom ones before , but don't know what they look like on trucks or if they can be purchased?
I'd like to be able to keep the truck driving as straight as possible considering all the things done to it.
06-24-2019 09:26 PM
Jenfred10
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4seasons View Post
That brings up something else to check into when replacing the springs/ lowering the mounts. Most SAS kits move the front axle forward an inch or two. Even with cutting the fenders to clear huge tires you can run into clearance issues with the cab near the door opening. The bumper however is easy to move/ replace so the farther forward the axle is the easier the tire clearance issue is on the front to address. Depending on the steering setup though you can go too far and run into drag link/ pitman arm clearance problems.
Ok, thanks for the information! That's something I will look into and keep in mind.
06-24-2019 07:00 AM
4seasons
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenfred10 View Post
If you look at the front wheel and tire, it looks pushed back and not centered in the wheel well anymore.
That brings up something else to check into when replacing the springs/ lowering the mounts. Most SAS kits move the front axle forward an inch or two. Even with cutting the fenders to clear huge tires you can run into clearance issues with the cab near the door opening. The bumper however is easy to move/ replace so the farther forward the axle is the easier the tire clearance issue is on the front to address. Depending on the steering setup though you can go too far and run into drag link/ pitman arm clearance problems.
06-23-2019 10:33 PM
Jenfred10
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4seasons View Post
Without going into a full geometry lesson, this is how a shackle works. A leaf spring with significant arch will get longer as it flattens. The shackle moves back to let the suspension flex. Also since your spring is broken and separated by an inch or more along with being flatter, your shackle is maxed out. It also causes the front axle to more rearward as the suspension compresses which can further complicate driveshaft length. This is also why these guys are bashing high lift leaf springs.

Not knowing who did that SAS there are several things that need to be checked out. The front axle appears to be clocked up for less driveshaft angles which requires a CV joint. Also if the knuckles were not cut and rotated back down then you have a negative caster angle. If the plan is one tons and bigger lift then all these issues can be addressed then. In the mean time the broken spring, bent tie rod, and possible negative caster make this thing unsafe to drive.

Now if we ignore the horrible idea of going higher instead of cutting fenders and just focus on clearing the tire size:
If you have rear springs up front, just buy taller rear springs and install huge bump stops and accept that you have no suspension and will ride like a forklift. You can also add body lift which will keep everything as is but with more tire clearance. Neither of these are good mods nor will they make the truck more capable.
Speaking of what you said here...........we had to move the truck because we sold our house for more acres and our going to live in this trailer for a year and build a new house.............

Anyways........check out this new pic I posted. You are right on the money! If you look at the front wheel and tire, it looks pushed back and not centered in the wheel well anymore.
That's since the spring broke on that front side.
Also, it's probably hard to tell in that pic, but the front on that side is sitting a good 4-5 inches lower since it broke.
06-23-2019 10:22 PM
Jenfred10
Quote:
Originally Posted by 99HoE View Post
I reconsider going with less lift and trimming the fenders. Section them properly and they'll look factory and proportional to the 49" tires. Otherwise it'll look odd with the new/larger tires.

Also, what size wheel are you running with the new tires? Looks like iroc's come in 16.5's, 17's & 20's.

What steering setup do you have currently?
I know exactly what you mean! Seems even worse to me on the shorter wheel base Chevy trucks.
We dont have the wheels yet for the 49"s, but we got tires for the 16.5 inch wheels. It's looking like we are going to be having custom wheels made.

As far as the steering set up......as dumb as I sound.....I have no idea. I no it's not hydraulic is all I really know. It's steers pretty well with the 44"s unless the truck isn't moving, then it strains a bit.....I'm open to recommendations though?
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