|03-31-2020 03:11 PM|
|03-31-2020 12:03 AM|
cross-posting from GCC for exposure.
Certainly not our regular gig, but we are trying our best to help those that need it.
If you or your local hospitals are in need for N95 type respirator masks,
and have a hardware store close that stocks furnace filters...
Please check this out.
FYI, Ill update again once the 3rd and final video is uploaded and published.
Also, if somebody could help by embedding the videos, this idiot would appreciate it!
|03-24-2020 03:48 PM|
Not sure if you already have a cover for the foam, but if not i have used this on several supermotos and pit bikes. Really nice and grippy.
|03-24-2020 06:02 AM|
|03-23-2020 04:04 PM|
It's still a little 140cc, so nothing crazy.
But even being a "big wheel" version, it is geared pretty low.
Awesome for a tight trail, but you run out of RPM in 4th gear pretty fast.
A larger front sprocket showed up today that Ill add into the mix.
This will give the bike some longer legs, hopefully without running out of juice in 4th gear. Factory has a 15 tooth front. New is 17 tooth.
The seat foam portion came out GREAT as well.
After checking out the local fabric store for foam, I opted for nothing more than a $15 "athletic foam pad" roll. Something like a yoga mat, but thicker.
Laying it up was easy enough, and sculpting with an angle grinder w/ flap wheel made quick work of it. Still a bit of sculpting to do, but its close.
Now its up to the wife to stitch up the cover. I have another yard of seat cover fabric from the CT90 project that will be used. So matching seats
Im still considering a complete tear down and re-paint, similar to the old honda trail. Tan/black and camo seat.
|03-23-2020 03:25 PM|
Whats the power delivery like? is it rowdy or still trail bike?
The seat pan/irons are awesome. That should really help the second rider out. Pegs on swingarm or?
|03-22-2020 02:26 PM|
Seat pan turned out great.
Still have some trimming/cleanup to do with the grinder & flapwheel, but its going to work out great
|03-21-2020 10:26 PM|
Then off to the races with the new TIG machine and the rear framework.
Im a noob to TIG, and it shows. But the welds seem solid, just not pretty.
The rear of the frame actually unbolts from the main fame, which makes fabbing these bits much easier.
Rear hoops, that will serve as grab bars & tie down points.
Still have an upright hoop on the very rear, as well as passenger foot-peg mounts to work out.
Still far from done, but done enough to push forward with the custom, extended seat.
with stock seat installed
With the seat cover and pad removed, I added some threaded aluminum blocks for the seat brackets to bolt to. Factory were very small rivets, that were already failing.
Then the seat pan was trimmed a bit to clear the new framework. I also drilled a bunch of 3/16 hols in the seat pan to help the fiberglass resin key the plastic pan to the new fiberglass pan.
Then the entire bike was shrink wrapped, taped.
And the custom extended seat pan was started.
Now fingers crossed the resin cures properly, AND I can get the damn thing off the bike
|03-21-2020 10:14 PM|
Slow and steady. Although I have had some extra time, as all of our dance lessons are on hold due to coronovirus.
Carb rejetted and installed.
Fired on 3rd kick, and idled.
Still needs a bit of tuning, but seems to run MUCH better already.
Protaper Pillow Grips installed
Had some 1/4" aluminum laying around, so I whipped this plate up for the front headlamp, and front fork tie-down points.
It will also serve as a mount for the horn, and front fender brace.
simple alum bracket fabbed for the ignition switch
Opted for a different control assembly.
This one is aluminum, and seems to be much better quality
Blinkers, horn, and headlamp controls.
And tail lamp / plate assembly, installed with another custom bracket.
|02-25-2020 08:16 PM|
|02-25-2020 06:48 PM|
A few little bits done this evening.
simple mods really make a difference...
New Mikuni carb torn apart to check factory jetting.
Research tells me that I should have a 17.5 or 20 pilot and a 155 to 165 main.
Factory the carb was assembled with a 22.5 pilot & 190 main.
So new jets ordered...
Experience with these horizontal engines has prompted a few simple mods.
Like the intake bolts, replaced with studs. These motors vibrate enough that the bolts tend to work loose. You dont really want to loctite the bolts in place, so over time as they work loose they tend to ruin the threads in the head. So studs are loctited in the head instead, and nuts are used. Read loctite on the studs, and blue on the nuts.
Similar scenario at the handlebar mounts. The handlebars will have to be removed every time the bike is loaded into the box on the truck. So in stead of wearing out the aluminum threads in the handlebar risers, studs were installed. I then turned down some threaded couplers, that will thread onto the studs and fasten the clamp down.
Threaded couplers painted....
This harness that passes thru the case is a known leak point. Dirt, water, etc... So its been sealed up with toyota black RTV.
And finally, all chain guides on, new chain installed, wheel and chain aligned, and side cover off in preparation for a valve adjustment
|02-23-2020 03:38 PM|
And before anyone mentions the fancy ice chest bike stand....
yes, I made one out of Baltic Birch ply
Had some around, and the table saw was still out from a remodel job, so here we are. Makes for one heck of a stool too!
But all the bearings have been swapped out, new cables installed, swing arm installed, and wheels/tires on.
Frame was drilled and tapped for two 10-32 scews, to mount the new rectifier.
case vent hose was replaced with silicone hose, and high mounted under the rear fender stay with a small uni filter.
And brake switch. Very simple aluminum bracket that holds the switch and fastens to the bike with one of the existing motor mount bolts. It just clears the swing arm, and according to the multimeter, works as it should.
Simple hole was drilled in the foot brake lever, along with a simple stainless wire with sleeve to prevent it digging into the case over time.
Typically these switches have a spring instead of a wire. But here the overall throw of the foot brake lever is short enough to do with just a wire.
|02-23-2020 10:55 AM|
And on to the little moto...
This is the SSR140TR-BW (big wheel)
Its a chinese bike, rolling on 14" rear & 17" front wheels, powered by a YX140CC thumper.
This bike has less than 20 hours on it when I picked it up.
While being pretty clean, it did need some things already.
It is chinese afterall. And the kid that owned it sure had fun with it.
Some obvious evidence of that... Ridden hard and put away wet.
here is a shot of it mid-tear-down.
I want to bring it back up to speed 100%, so all maintenance items will be addressed, then reassembled, then work out the mods.
The bike will have to be assembled to do the custom seat and rear rack.
Every single bearing was toast. I honestly couldnt believe this.
Front and rear wheel bearings, swingarm bearings,& chain guide bearings.
So new SKF bearings were ordered.
While I ha the swingarm off and torn down, I also decided to order an aluminum replacement.
The OE bearings were shielded, Ill upgrade these to double sealed. The aluminum swingarm should also shed a few pounds.
Headset bearings were suspect, but after flushing & repacking I can live with them. At least for now.
The bike also needed both throttle and clutch cables. Again, chinese.
So new cables were ordered.
From OE, the bike was fitted with a knock-off Mikuni carb.
The bike was VERY cold blooded, so I tore it apart to see what jets were being used. Turns out out the jets were non-standard.
Wasnt totally impressed with the choke on it either (could have been related)
So a new Mikuni VM26-606 with all the fun bits was ordered.
So... on order
**Front and rear wheel bearings (SKF)
**swing arm bearings (SKF)
**chain guide tensioner bearings (generic, but double shielded)
**chain guide tensioner
**swingarm chain slide
**chain guard guide
**#420 HD chain (RK)
**fresh tygon fuel lines
**cheap ebay replacement skid plate
That sums up the maintenance items.
The following is also on order for upgrades....
**Aluminum 18" swingarm
**silicone tubing & UNI filter for remote crank vent
**Mikuni VM26-606 carb
**Minkuni carb adapter
**another slip on muffler.... would like to make it a bit more quiet somehow.
Going to try repacking a new muff, perhaps changing the baffle.
The following on order for electrics & street legal stuff...
** 4700uf 50v capacitor (bike will not have battery)
**cheap LED headlamp
**cheap LED tail lamp
**brake lamp switch
**backlit bike battery powered speedo
**2-wire ignition switch
**handlebar control (switch control for headlights, horn, turn signals, etc)
|02-20-2020 04:58 PM|
It worked out 110%
Its really hard to explain how well it works, but I can feel it and I can see it watching others move on it.
The rest of the basement level is still slab on grade though, so its VERY evident walking from the next room which is nothing but an epoxy coated concrete slab onto this floor. The difference is incredible
|02-20-2020 05:25 AM|
|CarterKaft||That does look excellent, does it work like you hoped?|
|02-19-2020 06:19 PM|
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
|02-19-2020 06:07 PM|
Next project is the SSR140 moto
|02-19-2020 05:53 PM|
Very nicely done. Finished product looks great!
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
|02-19-2020 05:42 PM|
Been a while, and it shows. Studio is done and already in use.
Only bits left is to re-do one of the carpet stair treads, and the $800 mirror that will be installed on the long wall. Small one.... 6'x10'
Pics tell most of the story.
Note the ramp used to transition from concrete slab level to the elevated finished floor. Ramp is located at the bottom of the stairs.
Elevation change is roughly 3" in 40"
Also, floor system is vented thru the baseboards, so no holes in the floor it self.
|01-25-2020 10:35 AM|
Couple of update pics for the dance studio project.
Second and final layer of BalticBirch ply is down, completing the subfloor.
A couple of coats of sanding sealer will help prep the floor for primer, then adhesive, then flooring.
Coming together though.
|01-20-2020 03:45 PM|
Yep, 12" centers
Not sure if it has enough give for that.... but what do I know...
I have no idea what a floor for that requires. Perhaps??
The idea is to have give, but not be noticeable.
Once sheeted it will feel like a traditional framed floor, but with imperceptible "give". I assume it will have a "break in" period as well, as the materials normalize with the temp/humidity of the room, and traffic.
I currently have it sheeted with the first layer of baltic birch, and movement is noticeable, but I believe it is the 3/8 ply on 12" centers that I'm feeling....
Glue isnt set either.
|01-20-2020 08:07 AM|
What's the grid size? Looks like about 12" square?
looks neat. With a mat, could it double for gymnastics/tumbling/MMA training?
|01-18-2020 06:57 PM|
MRI results are in...
Lumbar Stenosis, Acquired and Congenital.
As well as disc problems, L2-3 & L4-5
Regular doc didnt even bother to call me back, just sent out a referral.
So I have my first consultation with a neurosurgeon this week.
Been fighting this stuff for years though, so I knew something would finally come to pass.
Not terribly sure I want to go for surgery right away. But will hold any kind of thoughts, good or bad best I can until the wife and I talk to the doc.
That said, basement remodel efforts continue.
Broken back and all....
I have managed to get all the floor framing in.
"pads" are 1/2" baltic birch ply, wet set with PL Premium, with every other being fastened to the concrete slab with ramset nails & 22 gauge gun.
They two courses of 1x2 VG fir, glued & brad nailed.
So if you look close, there is no direct path between the top surface and the concrete slab, except for the perimeter.
The field is "sprung", flexing happening between each of the birch ply pads.
Perimeter is "hard" fastened to avoid any kind of floor-baseboard molding movement/noise.
Laying the two-layer of 3/8 baltic birch (to serve as subfloor) is up next.
|01-06-2020 05:37 AM|
Nice, I will need something like that as well. Wanting a light bike (can be bigger than what you have, bigger truck), with saddle boxes and an extended seat for two (for short trips).
I am enjoying your builds..... always appreciate the pictures and write ups.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|01-05-2020 08:43 PM|
Fitting 2-up for short distances is part of the plan.
It will take some work, but its on the list of mods for it.
If the little 125cc swapped CT90 can handle 2-up, this thing sure the hell can.
Its considerably more bike. Looking forward to it, it is a very fun little bike
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