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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-23-2020 04:02 AM
Muckin_Slusher
Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl Kostman View Post
I am in a very similar situation, our county is buying my warehouse and when I build a new one this year after I get paid it will have the following.
1, 6000 sq ft 4000 for storage rental area, boats travel trailers etc. non heated
2, 2000 sq ft finished shop all concrete with heated floor
3, Office in the with heat, shower bathroom small meeting area
4. AWESOME LIGHTING I hate shadows when working on vehicles
5, 9K bendpak vehicle hoist 4 post so I can move it around
6, lots of outlets
7, Drains in the floor
8, it will be fully plumbed for air with multiple connection points and at least 1" air lines
9, A good way to seal the heated part from the non heated part (dont have this figured out yet)
10, A decent amount of space around the shop to park vehicles when friends come over etc.
11, well insulated (I live in ND)
12, good alarm system with CCTV uploaded to the net live! Anything to keep the meth heads from stealing my stuff
13, great benches with great storage/shelving
14, nice yard/grass area around the shop!

God this is fun!
Karl
What do you need 1 inch air for?
01-22-2020 07:43 PM
aczlan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl Kostman View Post
12, good alarm system with CCTV uploaded to the net live! That way I can watch the meth heads stealing my stuff
You had a typo on #12...

Aaron Z
01-22-2020 05:32 PM
Karl Kostman
Wants for a mans shop!

I am in a very similar situation, our county is buying my warehouse and when I build a new one this year after I get paid it will have the following.
1, 6000 sq ft 4000 for storage rental area, boats travel trailers etc. non heated
2, 2000 sq ft finished shop all concrete with heated floor
3, Office in the with heat, shower bathroom small meeting area
4. AWESOME LIGHTING I hate shadows when working on vehicles
5, 9K bendpak vehicle hoist 4 post so I can move it around
6, lots of outlets
7, Drains in the floor
8, it will be fully plumbed for air with multiple connection points and at least 1" air lines
9, A good way to seal the heated part from the non heated part (dont have this figured out yet)
10, A decent amount of space around the shop to park vehicles when friends come over etc.
11, well insulated (I live in ND)
12, good alarm system with CCTV uploaded to the net live! Anything to keep the meth heads from stealing my stuff
13, great benches with great storage/shelving
14, nice yard/grass area around the shop!

God this is fun!
Karl
01-21-2020 07:36 PM
dmaxguy2 Some shop items i used:

Shop is 50 x 84 x 14' high. White liner steel on ceiling. 1/2" OSB painted white on the walls. R24 blown Cellulose in walls, R50 in ceiling. North facing 20 x 12 and 10 x10 overheads insulated, windows in the big door so i can see what's going on. 6" slab throughout. I can drive the 21K forklift anywhere and not worry and 6" fiber over 3000 psi is plenty for a lift.

I did framed walls 2' OC and striped the outside for the steel. Makes for much better cavity to insulate. No insulation other than foam likes to be on its side for 8 to 10' stretches. Roof trusses 4' OC. Make sense with framed walls, roof perlins can then be 2 x 4's flat on top of trusses.

Used 8 5' x 3' sliding windows 8' up on the east, south, and west for natural light. Decent vinyl Low E.

When it got to -25 here last winter the coldest i saw in the shop was 38. Most of the time it stays around 43. It didn't get much above 75 in August. I keep the doors shut as much as possible. I put 2" foam on the inside of the frost walls and under the outside 4' of the floor. I I have slight regret for not doing the whole floor. At the time 2k more cost seemed like a lot. That was b4 I added everything up, not sure 2k more would have really mattered. I get a little floor sweat.

I run a dehumidifier for a bit in late spring and early summer to combat the humidity difference, again I mostly keep the doors shut. I have an opener in/on everything.

I have these lights,(they have actually bumped up the lumens since i bought) they put out great light at a good price.

https://www.menards.com/main/lightin...731-c-7539.htm

I have this exhaust fan, DELHI AX20-1V Exhaust Fan, 20 In, 115/230V, 1/3hp, 1700rpm CANARM. Sucks the walk door right out of your hand. Have it on a variable speed controller.

For heat I used a 250K BTU Modine. I don't keep it on all the time so forced air on demand is the only way to go for me. Probably overkill on BTU, it was hard to get a good answer going in.when the fan runs i can feel the air move in the opposite corner 90 ft away. I have a 200k also that would have done the job just fine. It heats up to 55 - 60 in no time. 2 ceiling fans help push the air back down. With the size of the building and the solid insulation I think the expanse of concrete keeps the middle at a fairly constant temp.

My .02 anyway.

And for the house, most good ideas have been said.

Scott
01-21-2020 05:54 PM
Tjoes Wow there are so many good idea's, many of which I tried...like the main floor master bedroom and others in the 1/2 story above. Did that while kids were home but now it's mostly unused. One of the best things with our house is 2 -16' greenhouses on the south basement. The entire basement has natural sunlight.

Heat goes up and cold falls. Don't try and take the AC from the basement to the top of the second floor. Put in a heat system that mostly heats the lowest areas and an AC that cool the top of the house. We have water in the basement floor. I wish the AC was in the attic.

Just having a shop is a goal for me. We used money from my shop sale to get 43 acres, so am starting over myself on the shop....(electric distribution, motors and controls) .....it's on a commercial highway, so won't be totally private.
01-21-2020 07:36 AM
[486]
Quote:
Originally Posted by arse_sidewards View Post
You can't hang a beam trolley from a spancrete beam.
I'm talking just the panels, not the beams
not gonna be a hundred foot span
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADD View Post
Always thought that was fucking gross.....I don't wanna brush my teeth where I piss.

On the other hand, I love licking my lady's butt hole all the time...

So I dunno
my sink is probably cleaner than yours
because I piss in it and therefore make the effort to rinse it out
01-21-2020 04:47 AM
arse_sidewards
Quote:
Originally Posted by [486] View Post
or spancrete
You can't hang a beam trolley from a spancrete beam.
01-20-2020 10:33 PM
ADD
Quote:
Originally Posted by [486] View Post
wut
just use the sink
Always thought that was fucking gross.....I don't wanna brush my teeth where I piss.


On the other hand, I love licking my lady's butt hole all the time...

So I dunno
01-20-2020 09:22 PM
[486]
Quote:
Originally Posted by fredycruger View Post
clear space basement, use metal I-beams, to carry your joists, no lally columns.
or spancrete
01-20-2020 09:20 PM
[486]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADD View Post
I put one in my house. Best 1000 bucks I ever spent. No I'm not kidding
wut
just use the sink
01-20-2020 09:14 PM
RusM What's with the recirculating hot and after and instant on heater? We currently have a has instant on that takes forever to get hot water. Would tye recirculating feature fix this?
01-17-2020 09:28 AM
arse_sidewards
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johann View Post
Do you mean equipment sweating or people? Cause in my old unheated shop in NC my anvil would sweat in the cooler months when there would be 30* temp swings. Some of that has to do with the humidity but I'd rather not have large temp swings in my shop in general. It's hard on things and promotes rust.
Equipment. Yeah it's the temp swings that do it.

Everything in my garage stays moisture free until you have increasing daytime temps at which point opening the doors results in every heavy piece of metal sweating from the warm air (which is why my machine shop is the basement). A well insulated shop will do this a lot more days out of the year. If you have a huge shop and are just opening a small garage door then you might get away with it but every time you change out a lot of the air in the shop and the stuff in the shop is colder than the air coming in it will sweat. You can probably get away with it if you air-condition but that's a lot of money up front and a lot of recurring cost.
01-17-2020 08:54 AM
Johann
Quote:
Originally Posted by arse_sidewards View Post
Around here I wouldn't even consider insulating a personal garage/shop. It would just lead to more sweating when the temperature changes rapidly. A heated shop would be nice but is not in any way necessary in New England.
Do you mean equipment sweating or people? Cause in my old unheated shop in NC my anvil would sweat in the cooler months when there would be 30* temp swings. Some of that has to do with the humidity but I'd rather not have large temp swings in my shop in general. It's hard on things and promotes rust.
01-17-2020 08:28 AM
Priest I'm just finishing my new home and shop build. I haven't moved in yet, but the things I really like are:

- High ceilings. Makes rooms feel bigger. Great room is vaulted to 12' and the rest of the house is 9'.

- Layout. I have the mudroom, laundry, master closet, master bath and master suite all connected and it flows really nicely.

- Pull through bay on the shop.

- plenty of outlets in the ceiling of the shop.

Edit: this is actually the old plan I just realized. I swapped the closet and bathroom positions...and added a man door to the back yard opposite the basement stairs.
01-17-2020 08:10 AM
SLC97SR5 For sure a whole house fan and high cfm (300cfm) fans for the bathrooms. 2x6 exterior walls.
01-17-2020 05:46 AM
45acp
Quote:
Originally Posted by arse_sidewards View Post
Around here I wouldn't even consider insulating a personal garage/shop. It would just lead to more sweating when the temperature changes rapidly. A heated shop would be nice but is not in any way necessary in New England.
I'm not following.

My last shop (30x60) had uninsulated doors, one end (3020) uninsulated walls and torn/damaged insulation everywhere else. It sweated like a pig. I insulated the doors, the rest of the interior, and walled up the inside. The sweating stopped completely.

Sure, if I had the doors open all day and there was a big temp swing it may sweat a little... but only with the doors open.

In this part of the US an uninsulated shop is a rust sauna.
01-17-2020 05:08 AM
72blazer My thread with a lot of great input:

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gene...-welcomed.html
01-17-2020 12:46 AM
50blues
Quote:
Originally Posted by djljeep View Post
Question though: For those of you with exhaust fans for heated space - do the regular louvered ones lead to crazy heat loss when they aren't running? I want to install one, but I'm afraid of it causing cold spot problems in the wall....
My old house in the winter the metal frame of the exhaust fan would condense moisture and drip. I would have to put a sheet of plastic and insulation over it
01-16-2020 05:44 PM
oldcars The shop will be a pole barn with steel sides & roof, and the house will be a steel snap lock roof with no gutters. Most likely a 4:12 pitch.
01-16-2020 05:07 PM
Muckin_Slusher
Quote:
Originally Posted by jps4jeep View Post
More power. If you think 200 amp service will do, get 400 amp.

This might depend on your location but for me, central air in both house and shop are a must, also in-floor radiant heating in the shop with a lift.
What could you possibly need a 400 amp service for?

That's 96000 watts, or 128 horsepower.

You cannot afford to need that much power.
01-16-2020 04:03 PM
djljeep Question though: For those of you with exhaust fans for heated space - do the regular louvered ones lead to crazy heat loss when they aren't running? I want to install one, but I'm afraid of it causing cold spot problems in the wall....
01-16-2020 04:00 PM
djljeep I'm working on building a shop with living space above (I don't need to hear about how awful of an idea this is - I'm aware, and working with what I've got)

In-slab radiant - anybody who has worked in one in a cold climate knows why.
Took a cue from a friend and used 1" foam as a bond break on the inside between the slab and the frost wall. Intentionally left the insulation higher than the slab when it was poured, and I'll cut it down later. The frost wall essentially has a french drain under it, so once I cut the insulation flush with the floor, it'll act like a ghetto floor drain (because local code prevents me from having a real drain).
Concrete poured thicker than needed with the tubing routed to allow drilling for anchors for a 2 post with out fear of hitting one. I used Crete-Heat insulation for the tubing.

Ridiculous light and outlet density. A friend of mine installed wall lights in his shop that he likes a lot.

Welding receptacles. Also ran 3 wire to one of the welding receptacles just in case I ever need 3 wire for something (or need to rig a generator the fun way).

my Power is run overhead to a pole with a meter/load center combo unit on a backer board on the pole. This allowed me to get connected and have outlets/pole mounted lights long before the house was up. The house has a 200A breaker box treated as a sub panel.

Ran the water line in 3" conduit under the slab,+ 14 feet away from the house for when I build my car port/lean-to off the side. That way I can pull a new line in without breaking concrete if I ever had to.

Structured Media box in the garage with a 1.5" conduit back to the pole to collect Coax/Cat6 with room to spare for modem/switches.

Going to run a 2" conduit from the top of the breaker box and 1.5" from the media box through the top plate into the trusses so that if I ever need to pull something new, I don't have to F with the wall cavity.

Going to run a 240V circuit to the utility room for a compressor so I don't have to listen to it. Also running a spare 30A 240V circuit to the utility room for future utility needs or to hook Solar stuff to should a future president AOC decide to buy me solar panels for my south facing roof.

Wall mount Garage door openers.

Ran 3 lights to the outside of the front wall - 1 above each garage door for bright as hell switchable lights controlled from a 3 way circuit between the man doors and one in the middle for an always powered motion sensor light (probably with a camera).

One light in the middle of the garage separate from the rest of the circuit to stay on all the time for security/being able to walk through without invoking the luminosity of a thousand suns.

If you live in a winter climate, consider snow removal. I can get my plow within inches of every door. I see many people screw this up.

Horseshoe driveway for easy trailer access.

Eventually I want to write a build thread, but I'm close to 18 months behind, so I figure my time is better spent, you know, building.

Also-I agree with the comments about Gutters - They don't work too well up here with lots of snow. Maybe everyone I've seen was just poorly installed, but they always seem to end up on the ground.
01-16-2020 02:22 PM
thefishguy77
Quote:
Originally Posted by apeters89 View Post




Why would you NOT want gutters?


Snow removes them around here. Every fucking year.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
01-16-2020 02:18 PM
arse_sidewards
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sledhooligan View Post
Not sure what is up with new home construction but it seems that they put the toilet in some little cubby. Its like trying to take a shit in a phone booth
It's so you can push on the walls to brace yourself.
01-16-2020 01:48 PM
Sledhooligan A bathroom you can actually take a comfy shit in. Not sure what is up with new home construction but it seems that they put the toilet in some little cubby.
Its like trying to take a shit in a phone booth
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