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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-27-2020 09:31 AM
Action Fab
Quote:
Originally Posted by billybob_81067 View Post
Did you grease your battery terminals with a M18 grease gun?
I installed the batteries with old analog hand tools. All that wasted time!
01-26-2020 10:02 PM
billybob_81067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Action Fab View Post
I took them back and used the warranty with success. The process was a pain though. First they failed the test. But of course they were at 11.6 and 11.8 volts. So they put them on the charger for an hour. Then they load tested again and both failed again.

Both were Korean. I got Maxican batteries the second time. Maybe they will work harder.

Definitely no issues, just chitty batteries. I already had the alternator rebuilt (rewound from 70a to a 165a) and added a new gear reduction starter along with all new cables.
Did you grease your battery terminals with a M18 grease gun?
01-26-2020 05:21 PM
PROJECTJUNKIE
Quote:
Originally Posted by Action Fab View Post
I took them back and used the warranty with success. The process was a pain though. First they failed the test. But of course they were at 11.6 and 11.8 volts. So they put them on the charger for an hour. Then they load tested again and both failed again.

Both were Korean. I got Maxican batteries the second time. Maybe they will work harder.

Definitely no issues, just chitty batteries. I already had the alternator rebuilt (rewound from 70a to a 165a) and added a new gear reduction starter along with all new cables.
Cool, when I pulled Mexican and Korean $50 group 65s off the shelf, both fresh dates and charged, the Mexican battery was good for an extra 200cca
01-26-2020 04:52 PM
Action Fab
Quote:
Originally Posted by fredycruger View Post
got same 650's in my 99 7.3 and it starting just fine in this 10-20 weather

they been in there since last spring
I took them back and used the warranty with success. The process was a pain though. First they failed the test. But of course they were at 11.6 and 11.8 volts. So they put them on the charger for an hour. Then they load tested again and both failed again.

Both were Korean. I got Maxican batteries the second time. Maybe they will work harder.

Definitely no issues, just chitty batteries. I already had the alternator rebuilt (rewound from 70a to a 165a) and added a new gear reduction starter along with all new cables.
01-21-2020 05:59 AM
fredycruger
Quote:
Originally Posted by Action Fab View Post
Update after 3 weeks with these in my 7.3.

I put these in with a new gear reduction starter and 240amp alternator from DB electric. Engine is new, glow plug system works perfectly. I installed new battery cables at the same time.

I get one shot after the glow plugs cycle to start the truck. Usually that's plenty. However, if it doesn't fire off after about 5 rotations, the cranking amps fall on their face and the starter begins to slow substantially, to the point that I end up having to jump the truck.

These were the $50 650 CCA batteries. Granted, I do understand these trucks are better off with 950-1200cca. But it's remarkably hard to find CCA ratings that high anymore.

I give these a "1 star, do not buy for a diesel" rating.
got same 650's in my 99 7.3 and it starting just fine in this 10-20 weather

they been in there since last spring
01-20-2020 11:39 PM
billybob_81067
Quote:
Originally Posted by PROJECTJUNKIE View Post
I'm thinking you've got something going on there, even a low quality battery shouldn't shit the sheets that early, clearly more CCA is better, but I'm spinning my 7.3s easily, are you starting out with 12.6v? Drawing when sitting? Starter motor suspect? One defective battery? Bad connection on one battery? I'd pull them, charge and load test, I'm curious.
This... Sum Ting Wong...
01-20-2020 02:03 PM
PROJECTJUNKIE
Quote:
Originally Posted by Action Fab View Post
Update after 3 weeks with these in my 7.3.

I put these in with a new gear reduction starter and 240amp alternator from DB electric. Engine is new, glow plug system works perfectly. I installed new battery cables at the same time.

I get one shot after the glow plugs cycle to start the truck. Usually that's plenty. However, if it doesn't fire off after about 5 rotations, the cranking amps fall on their face and the starter begins to slow substantially, to the point that I end up having to jump the truck.

These were the $50 650 CCA batteries. Granted, I do understand these trucks are better off with 950-1200cca. But it's remarkably hard to find CCA ratings that high anymore.

I give these a "1 star, do not buy for a diesel" rating.
I'm thinking you've got something going on there, even a low quality battery shouldn't shit the sheets that early, clearly more CCA is better, but I'm spinning my 7.3s easily, are you starting out with 12.6v? Drawing when sitting? Starter motor suspect? One defective battery? Bad connection on one battery? I'd pull them, charge and load test, I'm curious.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2big bronco View Post
Hmm I just bought a pair of the $100 last night in prep for the trip out to your house... I'm wondering if i should return them and get the $50s now before I install them

Well I popped my hood to have a look and I already had the $100 walmart batteries with a date of 10/15. 4years plus is longer then the previous Deka batteries went so I just threw the new ones in. The take outs are still more then good enough for any of my beaters so now I need to go through the barn and find a couple to get my $26 core back
I missed this earlier, keeping the truck aroubd, I could see the value in the warranty
01-18-2020 02:54 PM
rockyota83
Quote:
Originally Posted by 87manche View Post
I'd assume, and we all know what that means, that they make so many batteries a day using the same equipment.
some turn out better than others when they are QC'd.
those get fancy labels and warranties and ratings, and the lesser ones become value batteries.
id assume they arent testing every battery so theyre not classifying them upon the results


im gonna have to agree with projectjunkie, i think the batteries are the same and the price difference is due to the sticker and warranty length. they do this same thing in plenty of other industries, pay more for a longer/better warranty for the same product
01-18-2020 02:06 PM
2big bronco
Quote:
Originally Posted by PROJECTJUNKIE View Post
There could be differences, but at this point in time, I'm satisfied it's the exact same battery, marketed at a different price, with a different sticker, with a different warranty.

If you've got info on some additive, added on the assembly line, that doesn't affect weight, appearance, or CCA, I'd listen


I have a friend that owns a fuel additive company. His products varry from $5-15 and are for gas and diesel engines..... they are all the exact same product with different color dye in them
01-18-2020 09:34 AM
87manche I'd assume, and we all know what that means, that they make so many batteries a day using the same equipment.
some turn out better than others when they are QC'd.
those get fancy labels and warranties and ratings, and the lesser ones become value batteries.

like semiconductors.

You make a silicon wafer and you don't know what you've got until you start testing cpus.

but that's all conjecture on my part.
01-18-2020 08:45 AM
PROJECTJUNKIE
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaluhn View Post
Bottom line, there's unfortunately no real way to know short of real life testing for life, and even then I'd expect quite a lot of variation from cheap cells - some may have quite good life and some may be junk.
There could be differences, but at this point in time, I'm satisfied it's the exact same battery, marketed at a different price, with a different sticker, with a different warranty.

If you've got info on some additive, added on the assembly line, that doesn't affect weight, appearance, or CCA, I'd listen
01-18-2020 08:23 AM
jaluhn
Quote:
Originally Posted by PROJECTJUNKIE View Post
Wbut more lead is very likely to mean more capacity.
Not true. That's about as accurate as saying that an engine that weights more likely makes more power without paying any attention to displacement, gas vs diesel, year, etc. The plate design, active material formulation and formation process are what really control battery capacity and life, and the physical weight of lead has only an indirect relationship to that. Purity of the materials and variability in the process are probably the biggest things that should determine life. Even very small amounts of contaminants or small reductions in certain desired additives can have significant impacts, and there's no good way to know that short of expensive lab tests. I would even go so far as to say that more lead may mean lower life, since it could mean thicker grids with less active material (lower capacity) or thicker plates with less open space between (more likely to short).

Bottom line, there's unfortunately no real way to know short of real life testing for life, and even then I'd expect quite a lot of variation from cheap cells - some may have quite good life and some may be junk.
01-17-2020 05:06 PM
[486] just get group 31s
they fit the ford trays perfectly, just gotta space them down a couple inches so the terminals aren't in the hood
oh and make a different holddown because the wedge won't hold a 31
01-17-2020 03:58 PM
87manche
Quote:
Originally Posted by Action Fab View Post
Update after 3 weeks with these in my 7.3.

I put these in with a new gear reduction starter and 240amp alternator from DB electric. Engine is new, glow plug system works perfectly. I installed new battery cables at the same time.

I get one shot after the glow plugs cycle to start the truck. Usually that's plenty. However, if it doesn't fire off after about 5 rotations, the cranking amps fall on their face and the starter begins to slow substantially, to the point that I end up having to jump the truck.

These were the $50 650 CCA batteries. Granted, I do understand these trucks are better off with 950-1200cca. But it's remarkably hard to find CCA ratings that high anymore.

I give these a "1 star, do not buy for a diesel" rating.

it's not hard to find 1000CCA batteries with a high reserve capacity (which is a shit metric for measuring batery performance BTW, like PMPO wattage), they just cost money.
I just put a 900CCA battery in my wife's volvo, and a 1100CCA battery in my BMW.
both with hefty reserve capacity/AH numbers.

but they're also $150+ dollar batteries.
01-17-2020 02:58 PM
2big bronco Hmm I just bought a pair of the $100 last night in prep for the trip out to your house... I'm wondering if i should return them and get the $50s now before I install them


Well I popped my hood to have a look and I already had the $100 walmart batteries with a date of 10/15. 4years plus is longer then the previous Deka batteries went so I just threw the new ones in. The take outs are still more then good enough for any of my beaters so now I need to go through the barn and find a couple to get my $26 core back
01-17-2020 09:46 AM
Action Fab Update after 3 weeks with these in my 7.3.

I put these in with a new gear reduction starter and 240amp alternator from DB electric. Engine is new, glow plug system works perfectly. I installed new battery cables at the same time.

I get one shot after the glow plugs cycle to start the truck. Usually that's plenty. However, if it doesn't fire off after about 5 rotations, the cranking amps fall on their face and the starter begins to slow substantially, to the point that I end up having to jump the truck.

These were the $50 650 CCA batteries. Granted, I do understand these trucks are better off with 950-1200cca. But it's remarkably hard to find CCA ratings that high anymore.

I give these a "1 star, do not buy for a diesel" rating.
01-15-2020 03:04 PM
Black Sheep
Quote:
Originally Posted by [486] View Post
swap them out with god's intended lead and grease them up good with silicone grease

also, on the terminals, get the "milspec" ones that are huge and square. They have a 3/8-16 load terminal bolt rather than the dinky 1/4-20 that the cheap ones give you, crimp on eyelet terminals to your cables, again with dielectric in the crimped end (hydraulic cable crimper is $30 from china)
all my trucks have lead (molded) terminals. Need to cut them down, put on eyelets, and run those milspec terminals though.

AGMs still doing just fine, no corrosion like the others.
01-15-2020 02:50 PM
billybob_81067 Good to know. I should have bought a couple Group 65 batteries from wal-mart for my 7.3IDI but I needed them right then and there to get some shit done, so I went to Napa and got some at like $125 a piece... OUCH!

Went to start it one morning and it was cranking real slow. Batteries were like 7 years old so i figured it was about time. Put new ones in and it cranked like a mofo. That is when I noticed the dome light was left on. Oh well I took some real old shit batteries in for cores, charged up the two that I pulled and one of them actually was bad. The other one got thrown in my folks 2011 F-150 that the original battery shit the bed on a week later, so it all worked out fine in the end.

Still coulda saved like half the cost if I got the value batteries at wally world!
01-14-2020 07:45 PM
Provience that's solid to know. I've been putting off buying a battery for my truck for a little over a year.

i'm about over hooking it up to the charger if it sits for more than 3 days
01-14-2020 07:07 PM
PROJECTJUNKIE Update

Sent the 7.3 down the road, lots of sitting, lots of test drives, lots of being fired up cold and moved around the yard. Truck also had an intermittent charging issue, bad pigtail on alternator, batteries never missed a beat.

The 2nd pair I bought have been moved all over, used to start this, jump that, then used it to fire anther 7.3psd that had been sitting for months, cranked like mad and fired off, I'm real happy with these
12-17-2019 03:23 PM
PROJECTJUNKIE Bump this up, I hauled in a used and abused $93 group 65 for warranty, it may or may not have been bad, that's not the point here

The data

The replacement was rated at 700cca and tested at 835cca

I bought 2 made in Mexico $50 batts, each rated at 650cca

One tested at 892 and the other at 865cca

All 3 cases were identical and had the exact same numbers melted into them

These are going in a clean 97 12 valve Cummins 2wd 5 speed extra cab that's for sale, hint hint
11-23-2019 01:42 PM
PROJECTJUNKIE I took my cores back today, and it looks like they are now selling the shitty Korean batteries as the premium
Caveat Emptor
11-22-2019 03:25 PM
Action Fab It would be a fun experiment to put the $100 battery with the better warranty in one vehicle and the $50 battery with the shit warranty in the other.

Then see which one costs you more in the long run.

The way I see it, you have just as much chance of the $50 battery lasting the same amount of time as the $100 battery. The part of the equation that's unknown is whether the $100 battery would last past its warranty terms. Theoretically, you could get two batteries for the cost of your one warranty that might never do you any good.
11-22-2019 03:12 PM
rockyota83
Quote:
Originally Posted by PROJECTJUNKIE View Post
I'm certain this $50 battery is identical to the $100 battery, so I'm pretty sure it's worth the price.
i agree and the price difference is due to different warranties between the two
11-22-2019 09:15 AM
87manche put the $50 walmart battery in a buddy's explorer a few days ago.

seems good.
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