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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-23-2020 11:15 AM
Java
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNHEscher View Post
Had in my head a crisscross type of frame, but I gotcha now.

That would be heavy. More coolant weight than mine, even. I put in a few numbers and got around 215 pounds worth of coolant. Seems to me there would a way to set it up from underneath so you wouldn't have to redo the interior. Laying on top of the metal plate floor might be the better way to get more even heating, though.

Edit: And I'd get those tubes under the floor capped off if they aren't already. Keep the cold air out from inside them. You'll be loosing a lot of heat through those.
They are mostly capped. ~1/8" open across the bottom edge of the tube IIRC

What a difference a week makes! Same place without the snow, and 65 and sunny. Absolutely gorgeous spring weather.





Nice to be out on the rocks again.
03-19-2020 10:19 PM
JNHEscher
Quote:
Originally Posted by Java View Post
The ends are all open on the drivers and passenger side sadly. That that would be a lot of weight in the heater liquid. The tunes are 2x2.5 on 24" centers.

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Had in my head a crisscross type of frame, but I gotcha now.

That would be heavy. More coolant weight than mine, even. I put in a few numbers and got around 215 pounds worth of coolant. Seems to me there would a way to set it up from underneath so you wouldn't have to redo the interior. Laying on top of the metal plate floor might be the better way to get more even heating, though.

Edit: And I'd get those tubes under the floor capped off if they aren't already. Keep the cold air out from inside them. You'll be loosing a lot of heat through those.
03-19-2020 09:11 PM
Java
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNHEscher View Post
I'd go with a tank too. Really efficient for your setup.

What's inside the 2x2 grid of floor frame tubing underneath? I assume the grid is all hollow square tubing welding together. This is just me and my hair-brained ideas, but I'd explore the possibility of plumbing coolant through those tubes if the ends are accessible at all. Maybe they're laid out in such a way that you could manifold two groups of them together to make a feed and return. Might need to bore through the length of one perpendicular tube to manifold all tubes together to create the full loop. That's the best way to get heat transfer that I can think of right now. I would guess that your floor plate is welded to the tubes and you already have the tubes buried in foam.

Again, that's the hamster wheel in my head spinning off its axle. I have a tendency to make everything work double duty, if not triple duty. You might have the option of utilizing the structure that already exists. Hollow tubing is a favorite of mine. It takes up space, so might as well fill it with something.
The ends are all open on the drivers and passenger side sadly. That that would be a lot of weight in the heater liquid. The tunes are 2x2.5 on 24" centers.

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03-19-2020 09:03 PM
JNHEscher
Quote:
Originally Posted by Java View Post
Yeah I wish I had done it!!! I may rip the floor out and do it at some point.... Id probably do a tank instead of the hot water heater also. and recirc back to the water tank.

Under my floor wont work well. Its a 2x2 grid of tubing underneath. And I foamed the shit out of the bottom side too.

My thinking is laying 3/4" foam over the steel floor, routing for 3/8" tubing, and then laying a similar vinyl plank over the top. I would have to figure out door transitions, raise the fridge, and transition to under the kitchen area as I built it on top of the floor.....
I'd go with a tank too. Really efficient for your setup.

What's inside the 2x2 grid of floor frame tubing underneath? I assume the grid is all hollow square tubing welding together. This is just me and my hair-brained ideas, but I'd explore the possibility of plumbing coolant through those tubes if the ends are accessible at all. Maybe they're laid out in such a way that you could manifold two groups of them together to make a feed and return. Might need to bore through the length of one perpendicular tube to manifold all tubes together to create the full loop. That's the best way to get heat transfer that I can think of right now. I would guess that your floor plate is welded to the tubes and you already have the tubes buried in foam.

Again, that's the hamster wheel in my head spinning off its axle. I have a tendency to make everything work double duty, if not triple duty. You might have the option of utilizing the structure that already exists. Hollow tubing is a favorite of mine. It takes up space, so might as well fill it with something.
03-19-2020 11:36 AM
Java
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNHEscher View Post
Pretty sure you've seen some of the floor I'm building for the bus. Not to say that's the way you'd want to or should do it, but if it gives you ideas, ask away. If I had a better look at the underside of your box, I think I'd be all over it. The way I've seen it, warm floors are worth damn near any effort they take to achieve.

Ours will use propane heat while boondocked. Maybe diesel later on. I'll keep it open to the swap. Return from the floor will pass through the engine block for easy winter starts. About 280 square feet of heated floor solves a crap load of problems. No temperature differentials between rooms. Of course, you don't have as much space to heat or as much wall separation, so yours would be fairly cheap and easy to set up. Wish all us current camper builders on PBB were closer together so we could each lend a hand.
Yeah I wish I had done it!!! I may rip the floor out and do it at some point.... Id probably do a tank instead of the hot water heater also. and recirc back to the water tank.

Under my floor wont work well. Its a 2x2 grid of tubing underneath. And I foamed the shit out of the bottom side too.

My thinking is laying 3/4" foam over the steel floor, routing for 3/8" tubing, and then laying a similar vinyl plank over the top. I would have to figure out door transitions, raise the fridge, and transition to under the kitchen area as I built it on top of the floor.....
03-19-2020 11:13 AM
JNHEscher
Quote:
Originally Posted by Java View Post
Yeah the fan coils work just fine. I want warm floors though! You can do it for much less than 3". Just loose a little efficiency. I can make it happen in 3/4" probably. 1" at most.
Pretty sure you've seen some of the floor I'm building for the bus. Not to say that's the way you'd want to or should do it, but if it gives you ideas, ask away. If I had a better look at the underside of your box, I think I'd be all over it. The way I've seen it, warm floors are worth damn near any effort they take to achieve.

Ours will use propane heat while boondocked. Maybe diesel later on. I'll keep it open to the swap. Return from the floor will pass through the engine block for easy winter starts. About 280 square feet of heated floor solves a crap load of problems. No temperature differentials between rooms. Of course, you don't have as much space to heat or as much wall separation, so yours would be fairly cheap and easy to set up. Wish all us current camper builders on PBB were closer together so we could each lend a hand.
03-18-2020 08:00 AM
Java Well it seems that the Corona virus has killed the rest of the ski season.



But we did get two more days in in Idaho.

Spent Friday night social distancing ourselves..... this is one of our normal climbing spots, weird to see it in snow.




Heading East on Saturday, it was windy, windy enough to be spinning the tractor trailers around and shoving them in the ditch. We passed 8 that were aiming the wrong way and jacknifed. I am SO happy with our trucks performance, I could tell it was windy, but it wasn't shoving us around at all. I think the articulation just killed the semis. It was super icy too. Long stretch of 35 in a 70 zone....







But we made it over to Sandpoint ID just fine.

It was certainly beautiful, but 9 degrees, and REALLY windy.*







Ski in ski out lodging!

]


And overall it was a really good year. We got a ton of great snow days. Ignore the speed since I forgot to turn the tracker off one day..... But thats a good year! The speed from last year is my personal best though*

03-06-2020 03:19 PM
Java
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarterKaft View Post
Dumb question alert...

Could you do it now under the box? Jack up box to allow radiant tube carved xps foam to be installed? I have no remembrance of what the underside of your floor looks like.
Ha no worries.

Not really. The floor is 3/16" plate steel on 2x2.5" tubing on 24" centers. Going under all that would suck. My thinking is 3/4" xps routed out for 3/8" pex with the same vinyl over it. 1" height gain, warm floors.

The issue comes at the door and kitchen cabinets.... I built the kitchen on top of the flooring (stupid) and the door is set for the current foolr height. It could absorb another 1/2" maybe, but not an inch.

I could use 1/2" foam, but there wouldn't be much insulation under the tubing that way.

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03-06-2020 02:19 PM
CarterKaft Dumb question alert...

Could you do it now under the box? Jack up box to allow radiant tube carved xps foam to be installed? I have no remembrance of what the underside of your floor looks like.
03-06-2020 06:58 AM
Java
Quote:
Originally Posted by DE Jeeper View Post
We have an espar coolant heater in the pete but it runs through coil in the ac/heat to air exchanger. Its nice and super efficiant. I looked at floor heat but couldnt spair the 3" in flooring to make it work. We also loop it into a ate exchanger for hot water.
Yeah the fan coils work just fine. I want warm floors though! You can do it for much less than 3". Just loose a little efficiency. I can make it happen in 3/4" probably. 1" at most.
03-06-2020 06:45 AM
DE Jeeper We have an espar coolant heater in the pete but it runs through coil in the ac/heat to air exchanger. Its nice and super efficiant. I looked at floor heat but couldnt spair the 3" in flooring to make it work. We also loop it into a ate exchanger for hot water.
03-06-2020 06:43 AM
Java
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarterKaft View Post
I could see that for your use. I stayed in a house with radiant floors one time in NM, and it was glorious to put your feet down in the morning on warm wood.
Yeah, I'm kicking myself for not doing it the first time.

Add heat loop for batteries, pre heat engine, preheat floor from engine.... Ugh. Should have done it!

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03-06-2020 06:32 AM
CarterKaft I could see that for your use. I stayed in a house with radiant floors one time in NM, and it was glorious to put your feet down in the morning on warm wood.
03-05-2020 05:23 PM
Java
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarterKaft View Post
Yeah that would be a tad warm LOL, the intent of the "coolant" based ones (i didn't elaborate) is to use a diesel fired heater in a hydronic loop to heat these various modules with a radiant manifold just like a normal radiant residential system. The temp of the battery would be maintained to the ideal temp that way no FIRE temp haha.

That was my intention for listing it here. The hydronic systems seem to be game changers for RV type construction as the space saving and fuel consumption are so efficient.
The new Airstreams use a Alde system, definitely more costly than the system I would build though.
https://www.alde.us/alde-heating-system/
Ah I see.... Lol

I reallllllly wish I had done radiant floor. I'm debating retrofitting.....

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03-05-2020 02:34 PM
CarterKaft Yeah that would be a tad warm LOL, the intent of the "coolant" based ones (i didn't elaborate) is to use a diesel fired heater in a hydronic loop to heat these various modules with a radiant manifold just like a normal radiant residential system. The temp of the battery would be maintained to the ideal temp that way no FIRE temp haha.

That was my intention for listing it here. The hydronic systems seem to be game changers for RV type construction as the space saving and fuel consumption are so efficient.
The new Airstreams use a Alde system, definitely more costly than the system I would build though.
https://www.alde.us/alde-heating-system/
03-05-2020 11:53 AM
Java
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarterKaft View Post
65mph #$$%^$%& LOL holy shit


Side not I stumbled on a "heating company" that sells coolant heated accessories for cold weather. I am going to drop the link here just for the sake of remembering someday.
https://www.arctic-fox.eu/products/battery-heater
Yup, don't crash.....

Interesting idea. But I am not sure 200+ degree coolant under a battery is good, a bit hot no?
03-04-2020 04:16 PM
CarterKaft 65mph #$$%^$%& LOL holy shit


Side not I stumbled on a "heating company" that sells coolant heated accessories for cold weather. I am going to drop the link here just for the sake of remembering someday.
https://www.arctic-fox.eu/products/battery-heater
03-04-2020 05:07 AM
Java
Quote:
Originally Posted by vetteboy79 View Post
Ever play with FatMaps?

I used to run Skitracks...my ski buddy and I would always compete for top speed. I got one in the high 60's one day (legitimate), showed it to him (winning for the season), and the app then crashed before I could save it he's the only one who ever saw it and to this day denies it to everyone that it ever happened. Jerk

Just got back from a week in Chamonix, we had some pretty epic weather there too hello from 12,000 ft!
Never used FatMaps.

Yeah I like the top speed too [emoji1787]

That's my record



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03-03-2020 09:03 PM
vetteboy79
Quote:
Originally Posted by Java View Post
It's just a phone app. Used it for years. It was $2 iirc. Works great. Overlays GPS tracks onto a map of runs and stuff too. Pretty neat.
Ever play with FatMaps?

I used to run Skitracks...my ski buddy and I would always compete for top speed. I got one in the high 60's one day (legitimate), showed it to him (winning for the season), and the app then crashed before I could save it he's the only one who ever saw it and to this day denies it to everyone that it ever happened. Jerk

Just got back from a week in Chamonix, we had some pretty epic weather there too hello from 12,000 ft!
03-03-2020 06:55 PM
Java
Quote:
Originally Posted by 87manche View Post
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I picked up one of those for a titanium project and it's pretty solid for $20.
How big is it? I need something like less than 1/2 thick by a couple inches at most.... I'll have to look now tho, may be able to get it down by the fuse block also.

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03-03-2020 05:33 PM
87manche https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I picked up one of those for a titanium project and it's pretty solid for $20.
03-03-2020 04:59 PM
Java
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarterKaft View Post
That app/device? is cool really.

I wondered about the high voltage issue, I have heard allot of worry wart types talk about equalizing there batteries with everything off for that reason, I had not put much thought into it.
It's just a phone app. Used it for years. It was $2 iirc. Works great. Overlays GPS tracks onto a map of runs and stuff too. Pretty neat.


I'm guessing that's the issue. I need to find a tiny little DC regulator it seems....


Quote:
Originally Posted by 87manche View Post
indeed it is.



I would see if medeco has a cam/cabinet lock that would fit your handle.



commonly used on retail display cases and such.
Interesting idea! I'll have to tear it Down and see. It's still a plastic (although glass fiber reinforced it seems) body.

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03-03-2020 04:06 PM
87manche
Quote:
Originally Posted by Java View Post
Can't be worse than the tool box key?

Back door is a good lock [emoji1787]

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indeed it is.

I would see if medeco has a cam/cabinet lock that would fit your handle.

commonly used on retail display cases and such.
03-03-2020 01:53 PM
CarterKaft That app/device? is cool really.

I wondered about the high voltage issue, I have heard allot of worry wart types talk about equalizing there batteries with everything off for that reason, I had not put much thought into it.
03-02-2020 01:19 PM
Java Rolled in late Friday night, nuking snow! Ending up with 7-8" and it kept snowing all day.





Snow was amazing. We skied. A lot.



Fun little cornice to drop off of.


Saturday was gorgeous weather, so we skied then too.



And I learned more new things..... With the truck now charging at higher voltages for the cold temps, the maxfans now turn off. They have a high voltage cutout..... I will need a resistor or some sort of DC-DC voltage regulator.
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