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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-13-2020 04:43 PM
DozerDan I just used my Hobart 140 last night to weld up a fuel tank for my buddies F800. 0.023 wire and it was awesome. I forgot how nice it is to be able to 'burn' a weld in without blowing through thin stuff.

Best $500 I ever spent on a welder, esp since the first job I did with it paid $600!!!
02-13-2020 11:08 AM
Provience yes, copper/brass would be better than aluminium, but AL works also. thicker is better until it won't fit where you need it to. even 1/8" would be helpful for doing 18 or 20 gauge.

I've used 1" steel as a backer for 1/8" steel before. kind of depends on the setup but the idea is that you are welding on low enough amps that you aren't going to appreciably bond to the backer. copper is dis-similar so it naturally doesn't want to bond to steel, just so long as it is thick enough that it can dissipate the heat
02-13-2020 08:22 AM
Axhammer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Provience View Post
buy the smaller wire, use a backing strip if you can so that it is twice as thick and/or use a heat sink.

I've done had good luck with zap....zap....zap....zap stuff to fix holes and cracks and such in cars. just a matter of going slow, lower heat, fast enough wire.
What is the best material to use when it is used as a heat sink?

Copper, brass or aluminum? something else? Thicker is better?

My 1985 CJ-7 has duplicate holes drill in the tub that I want to weld up in the future, when I pull the tub off and go through everything with a fine toothed comb. Apparently it had two different soft tops installed in its previous life.
02-13-2020 07:40 AM
GLTHFJ60 I've had no problems doing down to 18ga with my Hobart Ironman 210 with .023 solid wire. Haven't had a need to do thinner than that.
02-12-2020 11:22 PM
ISDTBower Another believer in 110 for thin metal. Auto body shop says only 110. My miller 218 or something could never do the thin stuff on 200Volt. I bought the convertible 110/220 unit and never looked back.
02-12-2020 09:46 PM
CSP
Quote:
Originally Posted by PROJECTJUNKIE View Post
I need to fill 20 or so screw holes, maybe 3/16"
Small flat washers with an aluminum pop rivet in the center hole to have something to hold it in place while you tack it. Don't install the rivet, just use it to hold the washer in place. Tack it, remove the rivet and fill the center hole.
02-12-2020 07:51 PM
Provience
Quote:
Originally Posted by PROJECTJUNKIE View Post
I need to fill 20 or so screw holes, maybe 3/16" in the rockers and lower panels of a pickup that had old man fiberglass running boards.

Doesn't need to be perfect, just getting a $500 paint job and a for sale sign.

I don't have access to the back side for a piece of copper

I have a big mig with .035 wire, and a little 110v with .030 flux.

I have a couple welding rods I was thinking of using as filler, redneck tig

I could also plug them with bondo worms

Suggestions?
bondo worms would be the easiest thing.

i'd do that, and have done similar, with 0.030 flux core. go slow, seems like about half a loop is the max in one pull. just take your time and work around, eventually it will fill in the hole, sand it back down as you see fit
02-12-2020 07:48 PM
Provience
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiScouter View Post
Brazing sounds interesting but web search said I need pure Argon it will be a while before I can fill an empty tank with it. Ill probably give 023 a shot in the meantime.


braze with an oxy-fuel rig and flux. low heat, softer stuff.


I can't think of a good reason to tig weld with the nickle bronze stuff. seems like a pricey adventure and the electric heat is still pretty high. it does flow nice though
02-12-2020 07:31 PM
YotaAtieToo
Quote:
Originally Posted by PROJECTJUNKIE View Post
Maybe, but I'd still need filler metal right?
Meh, 3 or 4 tacks should do it.
02-12-2020 09:43 AM
Johann How about rubber/plastic plugs?

No welding or painting. Just For Sale As IS and move on with your life.
02-11-2020 11:33 PM
PROJECTJUNKIE
Quote:
Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo View Post
Button head allens

What kinda truck? Toyota tin can thickness or older full size? Toyota thickness is tricky. Can you put your regulator and bottle on the 110v and get some 023?
Maybe, but I'd still need filler metal right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterhall View Post
Nails can work well for this. Place head in hole. Spray some weld around. Cut/grind it smooth.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
This is a pretty damn good idea
02-11-2020 10:22 PM
Peterhall
Quote:
Originally Posted by PROJECTJUNKIE View Post
I need to fill 20 or so screw holes, maybe 3/16" in the rockers and lower panels of a pickup that had old man fiberglass running boards.



Doesn't need to be perfect, just getting a $500 paint job and a for sale sign.



I don't have access to the back side for a piece of copper



I have a big mig with .035 wire, and a little 110v with .030 flux.



I have a couple welding rods I was thinking of using as filler, redneck tig



I could also plug them with bondo worms



Suggestions?
Nails can work well for this. Place head in hole. Spray some weld around. Cut/grind it smooth.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
02-11-2020 10:22 PM
YotaAtieToo
Quote:
Originally Posted by PROJECTJUNKIE View Post
I need to fill 20 or so screw holes, maybe 3/16" in the rockers and lower panels of a pickup that had old man fiberglass running boards.

Doesn't need to be perfect, just getting a $500 paint job and a for sale sign.

I don't have access to the back side for a piece of copper

I have a big mig with .035 wire, and a little 110v with .030 flux.

I have a couple welding rods I was thinking of using as filler, redneck tig

I could also plug them with bondo worms

Suggestions?
Button head allens

What kinda truck? Toyota tin can thickness or older full size? Toyota thickness is tricky. Can you put your regulator and bottle on the 110v and get some 023?
02-11-2020 09:59 PM
PROJECTJUNKIE I need to fill 20 or so screw holes, maybe 3/16" in the rockers and lower panels of a pickup that had old man fiberglass running boards.

Doesn't need to be perfect, just getting a $500 paint job and a for sale sign.

I don't have access to the back side for a piece of copper

I have a big mig with .035 wire, and a little 110v with .030 flux.

I have a couple welding rods I was thinking of using as filler, redneck tig

I could also plug them with bondo worms

Suggestions?
02-08-2020 01:58 PM
tnbndr Had a welding instructor show me to use flux core wire with C25 gas for thin metals. Produced super nice welds.
Haven't done it in years though.
02-07-2020 06:54 PM
CSP ESAB EZ grind in 0.023
02-07-2020 03:57 AM
arse_sidewards
Quote:
Originally Posted by Action Fab View Post
I did a bunch of research on buying a little 110v welder recently. These came up and apparently they're great. I actually found nothing but good things about Klutch. I had initially heard about them when I was shopping a 210+ machine. Their 250S looks pretty sweet for the price.

Mainly it's my experience with northern. They have a really good parts counter system at their physical stores. We have one local. It's made owning equipment sold by them very easy and honestly, they put my LWS to shame in that respect.

So it really just comes down to my opinion being: It's the best budget minded option for a guy at home if he has a Northern near him.
I agree here with one caveat, pretty much all the 120v welders use the same cheap Chinese parts inside and are basically disposable when they break (even the red and blue). In light of this you're probably best off getting the cheapest machine that fits a 10lb spool and then slapping a big fuckin cap and rectifier in it if it's not DC (which it almost certainly won't be if you buy a cheap machine).
02-06-2020 07:17 PM
Benny
Quote:
Originally Posted by Action Fab View Post
I did a bunch of research on buying a little 110v welder recently. These came up and apparently they're great. I actually found nothing but good things about Klutch. I had initially heard about them when I was shopping a 210+ machine. Their 250S looks pretty sweet for the price.

Mainly it's my experience with northern. They have a really good parts counter system at their physical stores. We have one local. It's made owning equipment sold by them very easy and honestly, they put my LWS to shame in that respect.

So it really just comes down to my opinion being: It's the best budget minded option for a guy at home if he has a Northern near him.

Good to know. Thanks. I don't have a northern tool near me though

I wish I could swing a Miller 211. 5x the price kinda sucks
02-06-2020 06:01 PM
Action Fab
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny View Post
What is the deal on klutch welders? Are they made my someone else? Are they their own brand/manufacturer? Can you get parts for them? How long have they been around?

I am looking for a dual voltage inverter wirefeed. I want a lighter weight setup for mobile work. My Hobart 175 is to heavy.
I did a bunch of research on buying a little 110v welder recently. These came up and apparently they're great. I actually found nothing but good things about Klutch. I had initially heard about them when I was shopping a 210+ machine. Their 250S looks pretty sweet for the price.

Mainly it's my experience with northern. They have a really good parts counter system at their physical stores. We have one local. It's made owning equipment sold by them very easy and honestly, they put my LWS to shame in that respect.

So it really just comes down to my opinion being: It's the best budget minded option for a guy at home if he has a Northern near him.
02-06-2020 05:41 PM
jaluhn Biggest thing I've found is gap & warping - if you can get it to have no gap and stay that way it's not that bad, but as soon as you get more than about 0.025" gap it's going to be a sob to keep from getting an ugly bead no matter what. And it warps super easy, so even if you start with good fit up, it's going to be hard to keep the joint that way for the entire weld.
02-06-2020 05:16 PM
yblow I use .030 as my go2 on 18ga sheet all the way to 1/4 with 75/25 .
02-06-2020 01:16 PM
BeatCJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by OscarJr View Post
From what I read, they are reliable units in general, folks on the welding forums that have them seem to like them. As far as I know "Klutch" is the house-brand for Northern Tool, so they are likely made over-seas by someone else. For parts, you have to contact the Northern Tool parts department. So you have to make sure you can get what you need like drive rollers for solid and/or knurled rollers for flux core wire before-hand.
I called about a new gun, you can get one through Northern tool. Turns out cleaning grit out of the trigger fixed it. Mine didn't come with a knurled roller, but the smooth one flips for 0.025 wire. I have always used gas with mine. It's an inverter welder, better than what Hazard Fraught had at the time. Mine is about 6 years old, been beat on by my now 22 year old son and his friends for most of that time. My wife gets pissed when she comes home and a shitheep sami is in her spot in the garage with sparks flying under it. It works just fine on a 100' extension cord, too.
02-06-2020 12:02 PM
OscarJr
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny View Post
What is the deal on klutch welders? Are they made my someone else? Are they their own brand/manufacturer? Can you get parts for them? How long have they been around?

I am looking for a dual voltage inverter wirefeed. I want a lighter weight setup for mobile work. My Hobart 175 is to heavy.
From what I read, they are reliable units in general, folks on the welding forums that have them seem to like them. As far as I know "Klutch" is the house-brand for Northern Tool, so they are likely made over-seas by someone else. For parts, you have to contact the Northern Tool parts department. So you have to make sure you can get what you need like drive rollers for solid and/or knurled rollers for flux core wire before-hand.
02-06-2020 09:58 AM
Johann
Quote:
Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60 View Post
First time I ever heard of this was on an IG post last night by kanekid.

Yes, it's brazing. Idea is that brazing is more than strong enough for body panels structurally, and brazing requires less heat than welding, which will help reduce the tendency for panels to warp.

No clue if that works long term.
Some Triumph Spitfire sheet metal unions were brazed from the factory. It used to be just the thing to use where you couldn't get the spot welder tongs into.
02-06-2020 09:37 AM
ChiScouter Brazing sounds interesting but web search said I need pure Argon it will be a while before I can fill an empty tank with it. Ill probably give 023 a shot in the meantime.
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