|Yesterday 01:41 PM|
Finished up the welding on the exhaust. Used 3 'j' bends from summit racing. The cross sectional shape is not a perfect circle so weld joints aren't perfect looking but strong enough. Half ass ground the welds and hosed some header paint on it. Too cheap for stainless.
Tail pipe exists under fuel tank, it's tight to clear axle. Plan to add a tip to extend further and add some bling.
Used ford style rubber hangers.
V-band location works well now.
t-case is rusting, oh no!
|04-07-2020 03:02 PM|
Got started on the exhaust system. Decided to go with L&L 'shorty' headers that allow starter access and clear the tires. The fenderwell type would rub the tire at full lock and bump. They are designed to have both pipes on the right, so not to interfere with the front driveshaft, transfer case and traction bar. Used a V-band to make a short piece removable, so the system can be removed for maintenance.
They have 1.75 primaries and nice thick flanges. Came with complete, decent hardware. I turd polished flanges and repainted. For this motor and application, bigger headers or piping provide little to no benefit, IMO. Muffler is a Jones max flow stainless straight through design. Reversed to get twin 2.5 in and 3" out, case is 20" which is their 'medium' size. The muffler also provides a bank balancing (H/X pipe). I put the muffler far enough back to be under the bed and not the cab. 3" tube is about a 20% less area/flow than twin 2.5", but is lighter weight. Tail pipe is only about 3.5'
I cut and fit the system back to muffler. Upon fitment of the right side, it just didn't seem right. the collector exits at a strange angle. Looked more at cab, and realized the collector was likely designed to clear the cab floor. So cut it all out and started over with the pipe straight out of collector and down below frame rail.
I finish welded the left side then realized that the system couldn't be removed with cab on. So I chopped it back up and moved the V band back behind the cross member. This allows the system to drop down before moving back. I noticed if I worked late enough, I could just get back to where I was the day before.
|03-30-2020 10:22 AM|
After much deliberation I made simple reinforcements for the traction bar mount out of plate. Used the same radius edge design as the next forward plates, which fits well around the cab mount cross member. Same bracing on other side.
Hopefully that's it for frame mods. Trying to decide if rear bump stops need additional support. An 'X' brace over the rear axle could be done I guess....
|03-27-2020 01:44 PM|
But if hide the bling of the resi's, I loose my street cred with the bro's
|03-27-2020 12:58 PM|
|350TacoZilla||Is there enough hose on shocks to put the reservoirs on the tube crossmember you made, maybe driver side one on passenger side and pass side on driver side? Just thinking they would be up out of harms way more and could still use the mounts you have if tube diameter is same as shock bodies.|
|03-27-2020 11:22 AM|
Not sure I needed to, but I made some reinforcement plates for the rear shock mounts. The tube ties into the vertical part of the frame but not much.
Made a simple shape out of 3/16"
|03-23-2020 01:46 PM|
Decided on a plan for the traction bar forward mount. Went with the lower 2" bar below the shackle, so just a main cross bar was needed above. To clear driveshaft it needed to be up quite high, I again used the slice method to attach. Tube is some leftovers I found, 1-5/8 OD, 0.225 wall DOM.
Since chassis is light it sits up 4" higher than planned ride height. This impacts the geometry, so some compensation is needed to build at a different height. I set shackle angle to be vertical at ride. Started to tie the cross bar into the left radius arm mount, but put that on pause for now. The traction bar will only apply a vertical load, however it will want to lift the whole chassis at bar attachment point. Plan to add some type of reinforcement.
Fit, welded, painted and installed the links. Also cleaned the center section of the frame including the only 2 remaining factory cross members. Didn't fill any more holes, for now.
The lower link is 60" which is right about what driveshaft will be. Angle is similar, will keep pinion pointed at TC at all times. It seems to hang low, but driveshaft will be right there too.
Installed the rear shocks.
Put the reservoirs on the shock bodies for now.
The published compressed dimension of the 12" travel shock didn't include the 'bumper'. So effective travel is under 11.5", and at 12" horizontal offset yields a little over 13" of vertical travel. Bump stop will limit up travel to prevent shock from bottoming out.
|03-23-2020 12:26 PM|
I started to make templates to box and then my engineering brain wanted to justify the weight gain for the improvement in strength. Many of the areas didn't provide much gain, so I reconsidered. Boxing also makes running the plumbing more of a hassle.
It was box the whole thing or only as needed. I chose 'as needed' with goal of not further degrading frame integrity. If full box, might was well just make a new frame out of rec tube. For my intended use boxing isn't really necessary, and I'm trying to keep it looking like an old truck.
|03-23-2020 09:19 AM|
Man, attention to detail is phenomenal. Loving this build.
Why no boxed frame tho?? Had to ask
|03-20-2020 01:02 PM|
Got the diff hacked up and brackets installed.
Moved the perches for -1 pinion angle and welded up the shock brackets. Threw some paint on it and re-installed the axle. I positioned the brackets such that nothing hangs below the tube. Everything should fit...
Went forward with traction bar links. Welded on the bushing sleeves and test fit to see what to do with the frame end.
|03-19-2020 04:25 PM|
It's hard not to go extra overkill, but most often that just pushes out time frame to get behind the wheel. I want to drive/break/fix this thing at some point.
Ya, big is fill vent, the 3rd little line is a vent/charcoal canister. Probably just vent to atmosphere.
|03-19-2020 01:35 PM|
progress is looking good as always
nothing wrong with a good set of leaf springs, for what you are building i think linking it would have been a waste of time and money. plus like you said it would be a shame to cut the box up.
looking at the chevy fuel tank and pump set up and im liking it for an upcoming build i got planned. the 2 other lines on the sender are for what? im guessing the larger one is a vent line, but what is the smaller one next to the feed/return lines?
|03-19-2020 11:25 AM|
Burned in the shock mount bar and was forced to miter and cap the ends, well because.
I guess I have to paint each step so it feels like progress is made. Or something like that.
Tacked the lower shock mounts onto the axle such that they do not go below the axle tube. Angled them (and uppers) in so the shock end bearing are almost straight at ride height.
Pulled the assembly to make it easier to work on. Have to re-clock the spring perches, weld up the shock mounts, and get the trac bar brackets on.
Even on a full size rig space is tight between the diff, trac bar, shock, brake line and so on. Plan to cut some of the diff housing off to keep the bracket in the shown location. This will allow me to weld the inside of the inner bracket to the tube itself.
So at this point the smart people are wondering why I didn't' just link the rear. Before buying the leaves and making the hangers I considered but did not for the following reasons;
- The leaves will perform well enough for my application
- Link kits are over $1000 not including truss, springs/coilovers and so on.
- Don't want to hack up the bed for a good coil over mount geometry.
- Didn't want to go to the cost and effort to link and use regular coils, although air bags would be a decent option. Then I would need a air system and so on.
|03-18-2020 02:22 PM|
Semi-committed to rear shock frame mount scheme. Made a measurement/math error on horizontal part of the shock dimension and ended up ordering a 12" travel shock for a 30* installed angle. The bed cross rail is right in the way of the area where frame is bent to clear. Ended up putting the mount in front of the bed rail which ended up being the right distance anyhow so it all worked out. Since the bar needed to be up high I sliced it like the engine cross member which gives lots of weld area. Ground out the tabs to mount at a slight angle and positioned to clear the reservoir hoses. Plan to mount both reservoirs on the cross bar
|03-16-2020 02:40 PM|
Getting fuel tank mounted. Used some cardboard to space and locate tank and upper stops. Plan to use some 1/4" rubber to isolate tank from frame. Mounted the upper pieces at an angle to center and prevent a pressure point on tank.
Used the press to bend a pair of tabs for the rear mount. Simple mount now that the tube was relocated.
Also used the press to make some angled brackets for the front. Bent both legs at an angle to get the center perpendicular to the tank strap studs.
|03-10-2020 10:48 AM|
|03-10-2020 10:20 AM|
What's up with that oil pan wall art/ tool holder?
|03-10-2020 09:49 AM|
My 77 bronco had only a 14 gallon tank and I never ran out of fuel, even getting 10 mpg. So twice that plus clearing the diff seemed like the best option.
|03-09-2020 06:22 PM|
|bobbywalter||your shop makes the clinic i do my dot physicals in look like shithole crack hotel....|
|03-09-2020 05:57 PM|
|vwmopar||Love the tank. I have a suburban 42 gal going in mine.|
|03-09-2020 03:23 PM|
Got some work done on the chassis around the fuel tank. After getting the actual tank in place, I decided to go ahead and remove the 2nd rear factory cross member and build another out of 2x4 3/16 wall rec tube. I debated actual location and ended up putting it forward about 3" of the original, about where the lower frame bends start to prevent a decent attachment point. The tank hangs down enough to hit diff, and the location provides about 2" of horizontal clearance at bump. There is wiring on the left side so I made provisions with some 2" tubing.
Then I accepted that the rear most cross member was not in the ideal location and carefully cut it out so it could be moved forward about 4". This solved a few issues, reduces weight and will simplify tank mounting.
The rear most bed bolts were blocked and accidentally welded shut, so I re-drilled them and can use typical bed bolt.
I had drilled some mounting holes for the bumper/hitch, but a few now interfered with the wiring pass-thru, so moved them. This area will get boxed so captive nuts were welded in.
Moving the cross member closer to the rear hangers helps reduce flex, so I did minimal boxing between the two wih 3/16 plate. cut a vent so dirt and crap can't get trapped in it. I think the rear part of chassis is at least as strong and rigid as it was. Had to paint the frame as I went to make it feel like progress was being made, as opposed to just re-doing stuff.
I wasted a lot of time filling pretty much every hole in the rear end of the frame. Should make the wheel well look better. For some reason I feel compelled to fill holes from the items I have removed.
At this point I think the 40g tank could be made to fit but would need longer bump stops to prevent diff contact, ultimately reducing up travel. So the 31g fits nice and should give 250-300 mile range.
Next step is provisions for tank mounts and straps. Plan to mimic the blazer/burb mounting system with some flat bar welded to the rec tube, and some mounts for the tank strap studs. Moving the rear tube made this easier and will match the other end. The forward tube provides a nice place to put the fuel filter.
|03-09-2020 10:30 AM|
I guess I don't really care which side the fuel fill is on. Half of my Fords have on the right.
I did end up moving it forward as far as it made sense, for the reasons you stated.
|03-09-2020 10:24 AM|
|03-08-2020 12:25 PM|
|03-06-2020 03:24 PM|
|bobbywalter||are those the indy 101 mags like jegs sells? i want those for my ranger.|
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