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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-28-2011 08:30 AM
Taco-Runner That depends on you, are you measuring what you built or building what you designed. Using measurements like that which were put into the calc and rearranged based on the vehicle would give you something to built to.
09-28-2011 06:09 AM
GoingBacktoCali
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdavis View Post
Let's try this - first, the link pictures I am using are for a mock up, and are not final. So let's ignore the fab portion, ok?

you need to take a bunch of measurements.

First, a rough guess of the CG - One rule of thumb is to measure to the top of the bell housing.

Second, a rough guess of weight.

Get Excel, open the spreadsheet. Put the CG number in field named "Vehicle CG Height"; place the weight in Vehicle Mass. Also fill in wheelbase and Tire rolling Radius (height of tire divided by 2).

Okay, now for the measuring part. You need 12 measurements.

First, the front to rear numbers you need to look and measure from this picture:



Measure from the ground, how high the lines A, B, F are. They go through the bolts holding the links in place. The measurements are straight from the axle or ground to the mounting points; they are NOT link lengths. Run string and pull tight to each mount point if needed.

Line A is the 'Z' field of Frame End of Lower Links
Line B is the 'Z' field of Frame End of Upper Links
Line F is the 'Z' field of the Axle End of Upper Links.

Measure from the axle center line, the length of lines C, D, E and the distance from the axle center line to line F.

Line C is the 'X' field of the Frame End of the Lower Links
Line D is the 'X' field of the Frame End of the Upper Links
Line E is the 'X' field of the Axle End of the Lower Links
Line F is the 'X' field of the Axle End of the Upper Links.

Measure from G (axle center line) to the ground. One tip - I used the same number as the tire rolling radius here.

Line G is the 'Z' field of the Axle End of the Upper Links.

At this point, you are still short 4 numbers. These numbers are the distance between the links. You measure just like this picture:



Measure the length lines H, I, J and K. They go from center of link to center of link (or for ease, left side of link to left side of link on other side.)

Line H divided by 2 is the 'Y' field of the Frame End of the Upper Links
Line I divided by 2 is the 'Y' field of the Axle End of the Upper Links.
Line J divided by 2 is the 'Y' field of the Frame End of the Lower Links
Line K divided by 2 is the 'Y' field of the Axle End of the Lower Links

Fill in these into the spreadsheet, and you should see some numbers come out in the Geometry Summary.

If you check the VectorCalculations Sheet, you will find the link lengths there.
I hope this helps..
I know this thread is old as shit, but i have one basic question: Are these measurements supposed to be taken after you have the axle sitting under the vehicle, and the height you want, or the measurements the truck currently has?
02-09-2009 07:43 PM
ErikB High spring rate, or a winch/limit strap.

AFAIK, the main reason it will rise is the weight transfer.

AS/AD might have a little TINY bit to do with it, but only IF you have enough traction that it could torque against the springs enough to do anything (not likely if its a steep climb).
02-09-2009 06:38 PM
Taco-Runner Question for anyone that know's

How do you keep your 3link front end from rising in a hillclimb?

Roll Center?
Instant Center?
Anti Dive?
Anti Squat?


?????????????????????????
02-09-2009 06:17 PM
Booger Weldz try this thread, different peoples setups and problems/characteristics listed..sort of trying to help eachother out and links to the calculator:

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=722117
02-09-2009 03:13 PM
SHAWNB dam I wanted more pictures and maybe some cal. numbers, so I can see how far off I am with my front link numbers
02-09-2009 03:10 PM
Hyena it worked quite well but he sold it.
02-09-2009 02:59 PM
SHAWNB I'm doing home work for link on my 86 runner and I'm wondering how things turned out on this rig?
02-16-2006 10:13 PM
Jeffh555 i knew there wasnt a lock on the shed last week, but i didnt know that was perminent.

i hear the scale is pretty acurate, a guy in my vibes lab weighed his friend to within 10lb.

and of course my truck isnt ready for AZ, i still have 31 days and i'm about to waste a perfectly good 3 day weekend studyin for 3 midterms and writing a lab report

[/hijack]
02-16-2006 04:11 PM
TRD ps. Jeff is your truck ready for AZ?

I'm jelouse I wont be able to make it
02-16-2006 04:10 PM
TRD little heads up, there is no lock on the shed

I could have but I dont know how accurate it is and I never felt like towing it over there. I dont think the SAE scales are rated high enough for a vehicle


for mine I got the fore/aft cg on the ballance thing at hollister. Then I guessed the height. I guess and did the rear suspension. I seemed to be in the ball park so I used the same guess on the front. If I had more time I would have found the cg height. It didnt really matter since I was limited by space anyways. Plus it is adjustable within all the available space.
02-16-2006 04:01 PM
TheBandit
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffh555
couldnt you use the drive-on scale at poly? obviously you'd have to find someone who has keys to the little shed, but it doesnt seem that dificult to get access to.
SAE should have scales you can use. Ask George and he'll hook you up.

I prefer to drive my truck off a cliff with a high speed camera watching. The point about which the truck rotates as it's going through the air is the COG.... problem is you have to remove the suspension before you do it... plus aero drag can cause some problems. Better just to launch and do it in space...
02-16-2006 01:23 PM
Jeffh555
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRD

If anyone in/around SLO has wheel scales I can find my exact CG then we can draw even more accurate conclusions...
couldnt you use the drive-on scale at poly? obviously you'd have to find someone who has keys to the little shed, but it doesnt seem that dificult to get access to.
02-15-2006 10:29 PM
samm-man nice pics and info so far guys

I'm doing a 4link in my '90 4runner and I have some newbie questions for you.

Whats a good size of tube to use? I know that stuff is expensive, but what is my best bet?

What did you guys do for gas tanks? I'm almost 100% sure I need to get an aftermarket tank, or fab one. I would rather just buy one though.

Anyone buy an aftermarket tank for this application, if so what did you get? part numbers? Dimensions?

Anyone have pictures of a 4 link showing the aftermarket tank and its placement?

Would most people suggest RE or Jonny joints? I want them to be rebuildable and fairly easy to do so. I heard Jonny joints are a huge pain to rebuild. Is this true?

Thanks a lot guys, cant wait to get this done for my bday in March.
01-04-2006 09:01 PM
93yota i like that
01-04-2006 06:04 PM
sarge
01-04-2006 06:03 PM
sarge you can buy all the brackets that mount on the axel from hendrix
01-04-2006 06:02 PM
sarge I dont know if you have the clearance but I am super happy
01-04-2006 06:00 PM
sarge Im loving my 4 link that hendrix made
01-04-2006 03:59 PM
lil-bronc
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopperman
For all of those out there like me that need some learnin' LOL

I just realized that I was running my numbers at 30 PSI ( rolling radius ) I went to Ghettowheelers and measured his 4D's at 3 PSI and it took 2 inches out of my rolling radius which changed EVERYTHING. Running the numbers again. LOL Damn, I'm learning alot about linked front ends.

I am still curious as to why some say AD should be 90 and others say 45 ?

Lil-Bronc. You type like your drinking the JD
JD's mine frienddddddd.....
01-04-2006 02:51 PM
born loser I agree w/ booger about the licking of nuts and firing up the welder.
01-04-2006 01:41 PM
TRD basically with the toyota situation

Mount the lowers under the frame and centerline on the axle
Mount the upper as high on the frame and low on the axle

all within reason
and you will have something that works

most of the unloading is from weight transfer not suspension geometry. But with too much anti-dive the front end with go to full droop when comming up to a vertical wall. A good example of this is Troy Muse's buggy
01-04-2006 01:37 PM
TRD

the 4-link calculator is not capable of that. However there are other programs that are way more indepth that can tell you stuff like that. Mitchell and Adams are two of the programs.

I would just look at 4 inches of compression and 4" of droop too make sure the numbers are still acceptable.

My upper link is adjustable. Maybe one of these days I will adjust it and use it to show what happens with different values.

If anyone in/around SLO has wheel scales I can find my exact CG then we can draw even more accurate conclusions...
01-04-2006 01:29 PM
Booger Weldz
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRD
your anti squat and anti dive also change with travel, that is why you look at bump and droop values before building

so wtf do you do when one set of links are stuffed and the other side of the axle is drooped(all articulated). one side of the vehicle has AS/AD of 200% and the other 20?? and the opposite on the other axle? how do you figure how the suspension si gonna work on the calculator?

my brother figures all this shit out about his junk and says he has is dialed on droop/compression as well. i told him to lick my nuts and went back out to the garage and fired up the welder...
01-04-2006 01:10 PM
TRD your anti squat and anti dive also change with travel, that is why you look at bump and droop values before building
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