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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-26-2019 04:10 PM
KWTMECH Same locker, I'm not doing anything crazy anymore, sold my landcruiser couple years back, just doing day trips here and there. Sport was getting too expensive for me, especially when you're breaking stuff all the time. Down to 33'' tires and 4.56 gears. Have an extra cab 'yota that needs an engine rebuild soon...clocking 230k+ on it
06-26-2019 08:33 AM
CDA 455
Quote:
Originally Posted by KWTMECH View Post
Slips some what, more like gives way in a turn. Front applications have the internal gears swapped around.


NO maintenance required, just a quality oil

What are you running in the rear?
06-26-2019 07:38 AM
KWTMECH
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDA 455 View Post
Does a Tru-Trac actually slip even though it has gears?

Is it a set-and-forget set up; meaning there's no special maintenance once installed?

I'm looking into Tru-Trac.
Slips some what, more like gives way in a turn. Front applications have the internal gears swapped around.


NO maintenance required, just a quality oil
06-25-2019 09:24 AM
Mieser
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDA 455 View Post

As in a Detroit Locker?
In general yes, Detroit Locker, Yukon Grizzly, or even a lunchbox locker depending on budget.
06-25-2019 08:49 AM
CDA 455
Quote:
Originally Posted by KWTMECH View Post
Weld the front.....NO
Spool....NO
ARB---------- been there, done that, more expensive air actuated spool, nicer when disconnected. Running a tru-trac in the front now. Less breakage.

Also, way to bring back an ancient thread
Does a Tru-Trac actually slip even though it has gears?

Is it a set-and-forget set up; meaning there's no special maintenance once installed?


I'm looking into Tru-Trac.
06-25-2019 08:33 AM
KWTMECH Weld the front.....NO
Spool....NO
ARB---------- been there, done that, more expensive air actuated spool, nicer when disconnected. Running a tru-trac in the front now. Less breakage.

Also, way to bring back an ancient thread
06-24-2019 07:23 PM
CDA 455
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mieser View Post
My current favorite combo is an automatic front locker and a selectable rear locker.

I think this works better in a lot of '3-wheel drive' situations than even a selectable/selectable combo. The rear axle is always going to be pushing you straight ( unless you have rear steer ), while the front axle is going to be pointing in the direction you want to go. I am a big proponent of 'front locker first' off-road. You can do this even with a selectable/selectable combo, but you will need more steering force to deal with the scrub of the tire. Everything will feel more bound up. By using an automatic locker in front, with the rear diff open 99.9% of the time, it is happy to just do its automatic locking and unlocking as needed. This reduces steering force and gives a slight edge in maneuverability in 3wd because the front can still ratchet to deal with any tire speed differential ( including u-joint speed differences when turning )

The one downside to an automatic front in my opinion is 'tire toss' situations when climbing really steep stuff. If the tire is weighted-unweighted-weighted under a lot of power the tire can spring forward causing the locker mechanism to ratchet. If you come down at the wrong time you can risk some locker damage. The newer designer of the Yukon Grizzly seems to solve this vs the Detroit design.

Add rear left/right/both cutting brakes and you can add another layer of maneuverability to the chassis along with reducing the need for a rear locker for a lot of technical crawling sections. The next step would be using a transfer case that allows controlling each axle independently for drive. That is about the peak for maneuverability in a single steer axle car outside of more complex brake systems like tank steer.
As in a Detroit Locker?
06-24-2019 06:12 PM
Mieser My current favorite combo is an automatic front locker and a selectable rear locker.

I think this works better in a lot of '3-wheel drive' situations than even a selectable/selectable combo. The rear axle is always going to be pushing you straight ( unless you have rear steer ), while the front axle is going to be pointing in the direction you want to go. I am a big proponent of 'front locker first' off-road. You can do this even with a selectable/selectable combo, but you will need more steering force to deal with the scrub of the tire. Everything will feel more bound up. By using an automatic locker in front, with the rear diff open 99.9% of the time, it is happy to just do its automatic locking and unlocking as needed. This reduces steering force and gives a slight edge in maneuverability in 3wd because the front can still ratchet to deal with any tire speed differential ( including u-joint speed differences when turning )

The one downside to an automatic front in my opinion is 'tire toss' situations when climbing really steep stuff. If the tire is weighted-unweighted-weighted under a lot of power the tire can spring forward causing the locker mechanism to ratchet. If you come down at the wrong time you can risk some locker damage. The newer designer of the Yukon Grizzly seems to solve this vs the Detroit design.

Add rear left/right/both cutting brakes and you can add another layer of maneuverability to the chassis along with reducing the need for a rear locker for a lot of technical crawling sections. The next step would be using a transfer case that allows controlling each axle independently for drive. That is about the peak for maneuverability in a single steer axle car outside of more complex brake systems like tank steer.
06-24-2019 05:59 PM
Mieser
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith View Post
Ok, more fuel for the fire.....
What about Ackerman? One tire turning more than the other..... Will that cause unmatched angles and therefore bind as well?
Not so much more bind, but there will be a change in the velocity of the output axle shaft from side to side. That speed change is pretty dependent on angle, but I am not sure you would notice it with the difference in angle from ackerman steering side to side.
06-24-2019 05:40 PM
Burb Man What if you use RCV axels?
11-17-2013 07:07 AM
the glassman OMG the bs is heavy in this old ass thread..........

It all boils down to money......

No money......weld the dam thing
money....arb

Detroit works great until you pop a shift and grenade the dam detroit.......It took me two before I learned

are is the way to spend some extra coin

your rig will "push" because your rear is Pushing the dam thing in a straight line....

Twin sticked rig .....just run around in front wheel drive, simple as that...........why is it such a big ordeal to figure this cap out
11-17-2013 06:20 AM
artj123
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfield View Post
Yes weld or spool the front is a good idea so you can keep braking axles and joints to keep us guys in business.
this...
build it right dont cheep out. it is only money! i like to be able to turn.
ARB....
11-16-2013 11:49 PM
78jeep02 Strictly a hardcore off-road rig? If so weld it. If not I highly recommend arb.. I love my arb selectable lockers.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
11-16-2013 07:31 PM
Jadkins99
Response to Weld, vs Spool, Locker or ARB

Building a 97 TJ. LS2 Auto Trans, and Dana 60s Front and Rear. Intend to put Detroit Locker on front with fully hydraulic steering and spool in rear on 40x18 Boggers. Does that sound like a good way to go?
09-18-2007 07:02 PM
Longfield Yes weld or spool the front is a good idea so you can keep braking axles and joints to keep us guys in business.
09-18-2007 05:44 PM
jpcrawleram Going with a full spool front and rear. $ is my only factor.
I am going to linelock it and just front burn which I do now with my current Detroit anyways.

Once you go ARB you will probably never go back but if you dont know any different than......

ARB someday for me but for now its larger shafts yet more front Burns
09-18-2007 12:41 PM
94stepsideford Weld it and don't look back.


Bunch of sallys
09-18-2007 12:41 PM
theydontstop
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigblacktj View Post
Welding is cheap
Spool is strong and light
ARB is amazing when working
Detroit always works
Personally, I've seen more Detroits break(without shafts breaking) than ARBs that don't work(only seen one not work and it's because it was installed without the o-rings). Just saw another Detroit explode last weekend.
09-18-2007 12:24 PM
projectfreedom Nobody has mentioned the Ox Locker. I have been debating also on which locker to use in the front. I am between the full detroit or the Ox. If I get the detroit, then I have money left over for the hydro assist. With the Ox, there is no money left over.
09-18-2007 10:05 AM
6.2Blazer From my experience having a welded front axle and keeping one hub unlocked doesn't work so well. The same basic principles apply if you have a front locker and break a shaft on one side. It is NOT the same as having an open front diff. You get some really strange steering pull and handling, plus the mobility is much less then a regular open diff. Just like already said, the tire with the hub unlocked is completely dead and acts like a chock. Both myself and others with locked front ends always had more trouble than guys with open front diffs getting off the trail when in 3wd.
09-18-2007 07:26 AM
pik
Quote:
Originally Posted by jopes View Post
line locks and a twin stick tcase, you can turn sharp without any problems. been wheeling for 5 years with a welded front and I love it.
X's 2
Welded my front 60 last year. I do have twin stick for my dana 300. Saved myself enough coin to get beadlock rims. Just have to front dig around corners, no biggie.
09-16-2007 07:47 PM
88burban
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRKelly View Post
Lock the right front hub in. Leave the left front unlocked. Hop out and lock in the left one when needed. If your cheap, you can't be lazy.
this is what i do... except i have spicer hubs....was thinking about getting a set of warns and puting one on the driver side and carrying a spare and just leaving the bomb proof spicer on the pass side. the only down side to doing this is, as i found out on the con last month, that when you un lock one of the hubs that tire is dead weight.if you roll up to a rock of any noteworthy size it acts like a wheel chock and is a bitch to get over.

at least with an open diff both wheels have the power available to them and can pull themselves over small rocks. go selectable, run it open for now, and just save up for the big ticket item. it will be worth it.
09-16-2007 07:17 PM
jopes track loc is nothing more than dana's version of a limited slip unit.
09-16-2007 05:52 PM
carlosg_hn
Follow Up

It's been quite some time...
My project is moving, last week the CJ finally runs by itself, just small details pending to finish phase 2.
Phase 3 is installing the big axles (wheels and tires are ready), so I took them apart (the axles), fixed brakes, changed every seal and bearings.
The D60 happened to be using a "Trak Loc", according to some military manual of sorts.
Question came up:
Is it an good option?
or is this the same as a Gov-Loc?
Any aditional comments will be welcome.
08-16-2006 01:30 PM
Keith
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mh4Runner
A side note, how come nobody has brought up the idea that if you loose traction in one direction, you have lost in in all directions. A welded or spooled front end creates more scrubing situations than selectable or automatic lockers hands down.
you lost me there.....
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