|01-26-2007 09:43 AM|
I would find one with a 304 and th400. HP and autos seem to be the big trend in 4 wheeling these days as opposed to 4 bangers and gearing. Spinning big tires takes a big engine. The problem with these '7s is the fact that they only came with q-track t-cases and narrow track axles. The q- track isn't all that bad if you get the mile marker part time kit. It's got about a 2.5:1 low range(if equipped with the reduction unit), it's chain driven and aluminum so it's comparable to the np231 in some ways.
You can swap in a dana 20 with junkyard parts for about $200 if you find the right deals. There hasn't been a perfect jeep built yet. The Rubicon is close but lacks V8 power. CJs,YJs, and TJs all have thier shortcomings. If you're in the market for a CJ, go with wheelspeed(V8/auto trans). It works in mud, sand, snow at times, and it's finding it's way into the rocks. Just ask the BTG rockcrawlers.
|01-25-2007 06:50 PM|
|cj5 kid||My '76 cj has a boxed frame rearward to the shock mount on the frame where it becomes "c" channel to the end. The front last 8 inches or so at the bumper are also the "c" channel. Oh and i see you are in Ontario. If that is anywhere near Northern Ontario, you may want to put in some sort of auxilliary heater.|
|01-25-2007 12:08 PM|
|01-25-2007 09:50 AM|
Oh...you meant two years ago...
|01-25-2007 06:46 AM|
I hear 1980 was a bad year for CJ's also, they changed a bunch of common parts for 1 year and now they are hard to find
brake parts, bolts
|01-25-2007 05:54 AM|
Surf through this site: http://www.jeeptech.com/ A lot of good info.
Last year for the 304 was 1981.
The Dana 300 Tcase is a very good case, as the Dana 20 was. The aftermarket has 'cloned' the 300 into excellent products, IE: Atlas II, and STaK. However, you can lower the stock 2.03:1 gearing in the Dana 20 to 2.46:1 using a combination of Bronco 20 gears and Dana 18 gears. 3.15:1 is available from TeraFlex. There used to be a place called O'Brien's Off road that made an 'extreme' kit for the Dana20, but I can no longer find them on the web.
Jeep chose to abandon the Borg-Warner T18 (with it's 6.32:1 non-syncro low gear) in 1979 and the best truck-like trans you could get was the T176 (3.52:1 low-but synchronized), which was a medium duty trans that Ford also used.
In 1981 Jeep dumped the good Warn Premium 6 bolt front hub and swapped in a cheapo Warn 5 bolt version. It's not just a matter of swapping the hubs to get back to the six bolt design, you gotta change out the spindles/stubs/etc.
The AMC20 gets a lot of 'bad press'. I won't argue that in stock form the Dana44 is a better rear end. However, toss a set of 1-pc axles in the 20, weld the tubes and add a brace (and some protection for that wimpy rear cover) and you've got a good rear end. And IIRC, you can gear it as low as 4.88:1.
I own a 76. If I was looking for another CJ, I'd stay away from the 76-77 model years, as there are certain items that are unique to them. Translation: hard to locate in the aftermarket.
|01-24-2007 09:39 PM|
|01-24-2007 09:10 PM|
|jeepin jay||Im in the prosess of building a new frame for my cj5 i used 2x4 1\8 wall and used 2x2 1\8 wall for the rear sec. of the frame and all my steel was under 250.00 not sure how its going to work.|
|01-24-2007 08:22 PM|
|PizzaFarno||ive got a '84 cj-7 and the frame works great. nothing wrong with them, and if you take care of it the frame works.|
|01-24-2007 02:49 PM|
Mine's a 79 and the boxed frame is in good shape. Here's a recent shot for an example of a CJ (5) with SOA on Waggy/Scout 44's on 35's. I plan to go to 37's soon.
|01-24-2007 02:39 PM|
|01-24-2007 11:11 AM|
|zenjeep||the fenders on mine are psc tube fenders. i just bought the hood and grille and support rods.|
|01-24-2007 10:51 AM|
grill hood and fenders for the swap?
Doesn't look like much in the way of CJs around here. All high priced or rusted out.
|01-24-2007 10:28 AM|
i agree with the yj frame and tub. i have a cj grille and hood on mine. you will have to do a 1" body lift on the yj body to make it line up right and notch the grille around the steering box.
|01-24-2007 09:49 AM|
I think they started that in late 76
I also like the idea of buying a YJ for the frame and the tub
and swapping a CJ grill in
someone correct me If I am wrong, but the YJ tubs are galvanized, and you will have better luck finding a YJ tub in better shape than a older CJ tub
When I found my CJ 2 years ago, It had been sitting out of the weather in a horse stall,in a barn, and had not been driven since 1992
It was an original owner Jeep with 83,000 miles, an old farmer had it and hardly ever took it off his property, evidently he died in 1992 and his son had no interest in the Jeep
I bought it for $1500
|01-23-2007 09:44 PM|
Look for a later Yj to build. Stronger frame, I-6 already fuel injected, and you can put a CJ front clip on it for cheap, way cheaper than finding a clean CJ and trying to equal the YJ.
Old school look and newer better stuff
|01-23-2007 09:21 PM|
In 1972 the frame and body was extended to accommodate the I6 and the AMC 304. A plate was welded to the inside of the U channel frame to accept the motor mounts. It is not uncommon to find 72 through 75 CJ5s with cracked frames just behind the front axel. It is repairable but some of the patch jobs I have seen would require much more work to make right than it would have taken to do a proper job in the first place.
From 1976 on, all the CJ frames were boxed. All YJ frames are also boxed but the frame rails are wider apart and the material is a little heavier. A YJ will be a more stable ride right out of the box than a CJ.
1976 and newer CJs will have the most after market parts available. (More than 1975 and older) 1976 came with drum brakes all way around. 1977 switched to disk fronts but 1978 has larger brakes than the 77. (And So On)
When looking for a jeep, try and find one that has the most goodies on it for the buck AND HAS NOT BEEN HASHED. (Unless you plan to hash it more I guess.) Not only are the parts expensive to put on in the first place, but they donít get any cheaper when you have to replace them from abuse either.
|01-23-2007 08:25 PM|
When I say axle swap, I don't mean full width axles, I don't need them for the trails I'm running, d44s or a hp d44 and 9" would be perfect.
Throttle down Kustoms frame looks sweet though.
|01-23-2007 06:40 AM|
Yeah, I've 'heard', 'read', and actually seen a few pics, from all the internet wheelers how they did their SOA for next to nothing. Unless you own a huge junkyard, got a couple Dana 60's sitting in the garage, have a decent shop with all the equipment and skills to do a SOA correctly, or you've got a bottomless bank account: It's gonna be expensive. I've done enough research to realize that to do it the correct way, so that you aren't endangering yourself, your passengers, or the general motoring public: Takes more skill, knowledge, and money than I wish to spend.
And if I was really going to jump into that level...I'd go four link anyway. Screw the leaf springs.
Get an updated copy of Moses Ludel's Jeep Owner's Bible, there is lots of good information about Jeeps in general. My original version doesn't have all the new goodies that are available in the aftermarket.
But most importantly have a plan how you want the Jeep to be used. And go from there. Switching directions during a build can get very costly. Trust me on this.
|01-22-2007 08:44 PM|
|chadburgin||if you want to adress the frame buy a yj... or i guess a tj too|
|01-22-2007 07:59 PM|
on a more serious note, on my frame everything ive added i bolted and welded with quarter inch plate or angle iron. motor mounts, crossmembers, everything. i am also going to put in a 8 pt cage tied directly to the frame to make it more stronger.
|01-22-2007 07:28 PM|
as long as its a post 79' it should have a fully boxed frame w/ the exception of the front 12" or so, these frames were considerably stronger than the earlier models, but yes they can still use some strengthening. Just use 1/4" plate on the sides
also creating a tubular skidplate that covers from the oil pan all the back to the back of the t-case will help add strength as well as protect your vitals
|01-22-2007 04:08 PM|
School Me On CJs
Never ever had a CJ but I like simple and old school Jeeps.
Think I might buy one for my next trail rig but what to look for.
I'd like a CJ-7. Plans are SOA, Axle swap and 37-38" tires max.
I've heard the frames aren't too great, how can one address this?
Give me all the info you can or even links to read.