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Old 06-03-2015, 12:01 PM   #26 (permalink)
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If you are doing links use a passenger side tie-rod end with the extended end that has a hole reamed for a drag link end and run T-link steering. Done. If you are doing leaf springs you need some flat-top knuckles to put the drag link above the leaves, just the way it is.
Thanks, I'm in fact doing leafs and am currently on the hunt for some chevy flat top knuckles, parts are harder to come buy here in eastern Canada. I'm slowly tearing down the axle and creating a build sheet of things I need.
Current plans are to take the 4.9 third member from an R50 pathfinder and match the 44 front to 4.88
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Old 06-29-2015, 09:05 AM   #27 (permalink)
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My bad all, this whole time I thought I was getting an f250 axle and it's in fact an F150 axle.


The only thing I haven't yet figured out is what I'm going to do about steering, i'm keeping the ford knuckles unless I can find chevy knuckles around here but that's doubtful. Problem is the for knuckle is a driver side flat top and not passenger side so I have no idea how i'm going to run a tie rod and drag link

That's the same as an F250 axle - it has leaf perches. F150 Super cabs ran leaves instead of coils, so if it is an F150 piece, it's from a super cab.

If using leaves, the tierod under leaf spring clearance is really tight if you don't cut and turn knuckles and run the recommended 6 degrees of caster.

I just recenly swapped one of these axles into my Frontier in place of the waggy axle that used to be under there.

Here's a link to the full axle build.

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Old 12-08-2015, 09:40 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Yesterday brought bad news bears for me and my truck. Let me start out by saying my actual build thread is located in my sig. I thought i'd keep this thread going as this is the more offroad oriented forum.

I cracked a leaf spring off on a snow run this weekend but was unaware at the time, after a day or so the leaf split from the pack and took out my gas tank, and a brand new 35" tire. The gas tank I don't care about but I'm really bummed out that I have to spend a paycheck or so on another tire.

The only real upside to this is it forces me to begin my SAS, I was planning on doing that soon anyway, but now I'll have to get started. Within the next few weeks I should be picking up a 91 wagoneer dana 44 for parts, so I can make the 79HP a 6 lug outer. I have a 4.9 third member to drop in the back and I'll be updating the leaf packs with better leafs, moving the front axle centerline forward about 1-2 inches and swapping in front leafs. Hopefully all goes well, and I'll try to update this thread as I go along.

Roadkill inspired to do list, i'm sure I'm forgetting a few things.

Ruined tire

gas tank

Before the incident

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Old 12-21-2015, 09:03 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Gas tank fixed, but no new tire in the budget yet, not with christmas this week.
However I did take the liberty of purchasing a set of trail gear creeper joint shackle mounts for the front leaf spring swap and took the opportunity to drop the rear third member in preparation for 4.9 gears. Oh I also made my own front shackles out of some 5/8 plate welded together.
Just need to find some new leaf springs now and hopefully find another dana 44 for parts and i'll be good to start the swap.

I never realized how big the pinion and ring gear actually are in the h233b axle. I knew the axle was comparable with the ford 9" but the ring gear actually comes in at 9.17"
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Old 12-21-2015, 05:33 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Are you going to use those creeper joints in the front when you do the SAS? If so, its going to suck. They will move side to side when you steer and make it handle like crap, just an FYI.

Nissan labeled their axles after how wide the ring gear is in MM. 233mm=9.17".
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Old 12-22-2015, 06:28 AM   #31 (permalink)
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They're brand new joints so I can't see how they have play like that, and they're fully rebuildable. If they end up having slop like that I'll replace them but I got them for fairly cheap
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Old 12-22-2015, 07:56 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I never realized how big the pinion and ring gear actually are in the h233b axle. I knew the axle was comparable with the ford 9" but the ring gear actually comes in at 9.17"
The number in the axle code is the ring gear size in millimeters. 233mm = 9.173". Same goes for all their axles, the R180/190/200/230, C200, M226, H190/233/260, etc.
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Old 12-22-2015, 09:01 PM   #33 (permalink)
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They're brand new joints so I can't see how they have play like that, and they're fully rebuildable. If they end up having slop like that I'll replace them but I got them for fairly cheap
There are a few threads in the toyota section about this very subject. The general consensus is that it is a bad idea. In fact, many of the toyota guys actually run delrin leaf spring bushings to help increase stability.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...int-front.html

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...-bad-idea.html
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Old 12-23-2015, 05:47 AM   #34 (permalink)
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The number in the axle code is the ring gear size in millimeters. 233mm = 9.173". Same goes for all their axles, the R180/190/200/230, C200, M226, H190/233/260, etc.

H260 FTW!!!1one
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Old 12-23-2015, 05:49 AM   #35 (permalink)
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There are a few threads in the toyota section about this very subject. The general consensus is that it is a bad idea. In fact, many of the toyota guys actually run delrin leaf spring bushings to help increase stability.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...int-front.html

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...-bad-idea.html
Thanks for that, a good read for sure. I never even considered this could cause a delay in steering input but it seems most people were talking about doing both ends of the springs and a few guys talking about running revolver shackles. I only have the 2 joints so i'll be mounting them on the rear shackle of my front spring. It wont be as flexy or unstable because i'll still have rubber bushings up front. I'm still going to give it a try because I think it will work fine with my setup and if it gives me major problems i'll swap it out. This truck isn't my daily so I should be fine
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Old 12-23-2015, 07:02 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Stock YJs have a track bar up front even though they are leaf-sprung for the same reason, to keep the axle centered and stable. Of course, most people take them off for wheelin'.
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Old 12-23-2015, 07:34 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Exactly, I'm sure I can keep the truck stable enough even with those mounts. I'm probably going to run a sway bar with a quick disconnect for street driving, that will also help keep everything in check. When I bought my ford 44 I got the entire front half of the frame, including sway bar and links, steering box, etc. Also i'm running a 4 pack of 57" ford leaf springs that are 3" wide. I may remove one leaf but they are fairly stiff.
I'm currently still trying to purchase a 6 lug D44 for parts off of someone who doesn't seem like he's in a hurry to sell it. After I get that and scrap it for parts I'll have everything I need to start my swap other than ball joints and other small parts.
The only real decision I still need to make is do I want to run the Ford Saginaw steering box (which requires more fab and trying to mate it to the Nissan power steering lines and steering column), or Just keep my Nissan steering box which is obviously not as strong but is a lot newer than the 79 piece.
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Old 12-23-2015, 05:27 PM   #38 (permalink)
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The only real decision I still need to make is do I want to run the Ford Saginaw steering box (which requires more fab and trying to mate it to the Nissan power steering lines and steering column), or Just keep my Nissan steering box which is obviously not as strong but is a lot newer than the 79 piece.
I am running an AGR-built '78 F-150 forward-swing box. It makes the steering geometry easier to deal with than the stock rear-swing box. I did gut my entire steering system except the column and start over with a new pump and hydraulics for it. That box makes it easier to accommodate sliding the axle forward but can make installing a trackbar tricky if you link it later. Think it though before you start swapping.
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Old 01-03-2016, 06:12 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Got the axle mostly mocked up, mounted the 57" ford leafs, cut the crossmember for the front and gussetted the C's, still trying to find some parts for the thing before I do any cutting into my truck

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Old 01-12-2016, 10:16 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Crap, those C's look horrible.
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Old 01-12-2016, 10:38 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Crap, those C's look horrible.
Agreed. If they rusted so bad that large chunks of material are missing (and it looks that way) then I'd knock those off and replace them. Failure waiting to happen.
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Old 02-12-2016, 09:48 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Sorry for the delay in updates but I rarely look at this forum because this section is fairly dead, I wish there was a bigger Nissan following on here. For anybody who actually wants to read a detailed version of my build you can find it in my sig.
At this point in time the axle is under the truck and I'm waiting on a few more parts to come in before I can put the wheels and tires back on for a 2wd test run. I'll just let the pictures do the talking here.

Moved the axle after this photo to get better caster and shackle angle


weight on the axle here

Before gusseting


testing shock mounts and painting up the frame

knuckles milled flat, spindles and ball joints are in, tie rod mocked up in stock location for now.
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Old 02-12-2016, 04:58 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Unless it's an optical illusion it looks like your lower shock mount will bind on the shock body when you flex it upward? That will pivot quite a bit and it looks like the bottom of the shock will contact the mount.
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Old 02-12-2016, 06:58 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Unless it's an optical illusion it looks like your lower shock mount will bind on the shock body when you flex it upward? That will pivot quite a bit and it looks like the bottom of the shock will contact the mount.
It's not actually as close as the picture makes it look but the hole may need to be moved up when I check for clearances
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Old 03-22-2016, 06:36 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Haven't updated this in a while so why not, I built a ladder bar for the rear axle (slip and twist style) to hopefully put a damper on my axle wrap.

Dropped the axle back out and put all fresh rubber bushings in

got some 13" travel shocks for the girl and installed those, 5" of uptravel with 8" of down.

Finally got some parts together and threw the tires on just to check out how far they will stick. happy with the overall look now to go back in and finish weld everything, get my brake rotors from the parts store and take the girl out for some clearance testing. Shock mounts on the axle side might have to be moved and I'm going to fab up some sway bar links to deal with body roll. The truck is sitting on it's own weight at least.
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Old 03-25-2016, 09:31 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Good deal.
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Old 03-28-2016, 11:03 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Old 03-28-2016, 11:17 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Do yourself a huge favour and flip the u-bolts, you're going to get hung up on everything with it like that and bash the hell out of your splines. Make some ubolt plates, get some rounded ubolts instead and flip them. Well worth the bit of extra cost for new bolts.


Im also really surprised its holding up that well with only a 2pack leaf. I started with 4 in mine and after everything settled and some real big drops I'm up to a 7 leaf pack (53" long custom 3/8" thick main leaf).
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Old 03-29-2016, 06:04 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Do yourself a huge favour and flip the u-bolts, you're going to get hung up on everything with it like that and bash the hell out of your splines. Make some ubolt plates, get some rounded ubolts instead and flip them. Well worth the bit of extra cost for new bolts.


Im also really surprised its holding up that well with only a 2pack leaf. I started with 4 in mine and after everything settled and some real big drops I'm up to a 7 leaf pack (53" long custom 3/8" thick main leaf).
I actually have 3 leaves in the pack right now and the 4th is on my garage floor if I end up needing it. the Ubolt flip I will probably do in a few months once I get the gears and driveshaft in the truck.
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Old 04-08-2016, 07:06 AM   #50 (permalink)
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A little test flex because i'm impatient, so far everything clears but I haven't got the front driveshaft or front 4.88's in the truck yet. however the truck drives great and there's very little body roll


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