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Old 03-07-2017, 10:10 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Ah yes, as we call it, reverse building a buggy! Soon to have firewall and dash left and nothing else!

Looks good, I put a full exo on mine in hoping to keep the body around longer.........yes its heavier but it works for what I need!
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Old 03-08-2017, 05:16 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Ah yes, as we call it, reverse building a buggy! Soon to have firewall and dash left and nothing else!

Looks good, I put a full exo on mine in hoping to keep the body around longer.........yes its heavier but it works for what I need!
Haha, ya, Couldn't bring myself to try building a full tube chassis having never bent tube before starting this tube.
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Old 03-10-2017, 01:08 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Haha, ya, Couldn't bring myself to try building a full tube chassis having never bent tube before starting this tube.
I just have a few buddies that ended up doing the exact same thing, eventually its a full tube buggy, every time you need to change something more of the old body is cut away.

Looks good tho, will be interesting to see how it works. I've been resisting putting links in the rear of mine. Right now with the trackbar I built and all the weight it really hooks up well in the rear for leafs. I know I'd get more droop but considering at full stuff my cage/fender in the rear is the bumpstop theres only so much I'd gain with links.

My next big project will be an LS and a T400 but thats still a ways off.
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Old 05-14-2017, 10:05 PM   #29 (permalink)
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The time came to steal the good parts off my original Pathy. It will be sad to take it to the scrap heap, but the time has come. It was my first vehicle and the one I really learned how to fix/fabricate on. Owned it for 9 years and it had been straight axle'd for 7 years.



Got the t-case setup out of it along with the front axle, rear third member, and some other goodies.



Little more work on the cage. Got the roofbars in.





Tied to cage into the door hinge mounts.



Got some more goodies: Trail-gear orbital, mount, & column and 2"x2" FOA bumpstops.





Been slowly working on cutting all the un-needed junk off the front:



Finally got the front suspension cut out of it today.


Next step is to get the front of the frame cut-off in front of the motor-mounts, get the new front frame-rails built, then mock up the front axle/suspension.
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Old 07-06-2017, 02:42 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Very Nice! I may have to steal a few ideas from you. I have an 88 I just started on.
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Old 05-17-2018, 07:07 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Glad to see photobucket changed their linked images policy. I will update this with some fresh pictures! Haven't made as much progress as I wish but starting to move forward pretty good now.

Onto pictures!

Manual transmission TX-10 t-cases have this little lip on the input of the t-case. Auto TX-10 t-cases simply have this lip removed. So I cut the lip off my manual TX-10 range box and it bolted up perfectly to my auto trans.





Took the old rig to scrap, was a sad day, it was my first vehicle and I had owned it almost 10 years, 8 of those being SAS'd. It taught me a lot about wheeling and fabrication.



Came home with a fresh load of tube



Finished out some tube work in the rear





Built a mount for my 26 gallon fuel cell

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Old 05-17-2018, 07:16 PM   #32 (permalink)
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More parts arrived



Some sweet Ruff Stuff gussets



And a heavily discounted Ruff Stuff aluminum rear facing lightbar



Started work on the front end. Chopped the frame just behind the motor mounts and started my tube frame.



Started eyeballing the radiator placement



Custom motormounts built



Front radiator support hoop coming together



Hoodline bars in



And cross tubes/support tubes that I will build the front coil mounts off


Last edited by boardbysled; 05-17-2018 at 07:18 PM.
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Old 05-17-2018, 07:41 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Mock'd up the t-case setup. The D300 will allow for a flat belly, but the range box sits about 1.5" below the frame. We will see how it ends up.



Couldn't find a frame side panhard bar mount for tube I cared for, so I started building this one



Front axle all cleaned up and started the cut and turn. Shooting for 8-10* of caster.



Started on some custom high steer on the D44 knuckles.



Got some sweet 2 1/8"x36" 7075-T651 aluminum round bar for $26 a piece off Amazon! Should make some sweet bling-bling links.



Got the Speedway radiator mounted top and bottom along with the Derale 2 speed fan and shroud mounted




And that pretty much catches us up. Next up is getting the steering ram mounted, front links setup, and then the front shocks and bumpstops mounted. Then need to work on getting the PSC steering pump and GM 1-wire alternator mounted.
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Old 05-19-2018, 10:10 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Thanks for the updates....thats a killer price on link material if you have the means to turn it down for cheap.
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Old 05-19-2018, 08:27 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Today's progess:

Got the steering ram mount built and one of the tie-rods built as well.

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Old 05-23-2018, 01:19 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Nice build!!! Its coming together well.
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Old 06-20-2018, 07:04 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Little more progress.

Got a PSC TC pump mount made.



Single wire GM 110 amp alternator mount made.



Dragged the axle back under the front to start mocking up the suspension.



At full bump, axle pumpkin gets into the alternator mount.

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Old 06-20-2018, 07:16 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Decided to sleeve the passenger side frame rail for the track-bar mount.



Track-bar mount built.



Got my China-Spec power steering cooler mounted.



Oil pan hangs way too low. Looks like a 2wd pan will be a good replacement and give me some clearance.



And a current overall view

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Old 07-07-2018, 09:51 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Slow progress, mocked up the passenger upper link. Barely clears the starter and will have to be clearance'd for the PS pump. Checking where the shocks/bumpstops will end up. Shocks are 2.5"x14" FOA coilovers with reservoirs and bumpstops are 2"x2" FOA bumps.

Long tube headers won't fit stock, gonna have to cut them down to mid-length.



Got the lower links in. Also got the orbital mocked up. For what it is worth, the steering column adapter for the orbital meant for toyota pickups fits the Nissan splines. Orbital is a little close to the header, will wrap the header and build a simple heat shield.



Tack'd the driveside mounts in using cool lower knuckle gusset/shock mount combo from Motobilt. Pretty happy with how everything is shaping up. Looks like I will end up with a 22" belly with 5" of uptravel in the front.


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Old 07-08-2018, 09:26 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Got the winch mount built as well as the front bumper today.





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Old 07-22-2018, 09:33 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Got the transfer case mount mocked up. Had the D300 mounting plate cut locally. Plan on making a plate over the front output cover plate to stiffen it up.

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Old 07-29-2018, 09:31 PM   #42 (permalink)
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A little tech on the Nissan WD21 H233b rear axle third members. (Gasp! I know, Nissan tech!) There are two bolt patterns for the third member studs/bolts. The early H233b's use 8mm? bolts and the later pattern use 10mm studs. The patterns are not interchangeable.

I started with a older style third member and a later style housing. My third member had the correct gearing and a locker and I am better at fabbing then diff work so here is what I did.

First you have to remove 4 studs shown. None of them line up with the diff pattern.



Then weld up the holes for these studs. The holes are very close to overlapping with the holes you will need to drill, so you will have to weld them up. Go slow and don't add a ton of heat to the housing and you will be fine. Try not to build the weld up too much because you will just have to grind it flat.



Drill the holes on the third member out to 10mm. Install the third member and mark the missing hole locations. I used a tight fitting center punch. Remove third member and drill & tap holes. Studs are 10mmx1.25 pitch. You need an 8.5mm drill bit for this size tap. Studs appear to be tapered, but the main method of alignment is the third member to flange.



Then install studs and rock out! Short side of stud goes in the housing. Don't forget locktight! I am replacing the bottom stud with a bolt because I deleted the drain plug from my housing.





Hope that helps someone. Really wasn't that bad of a task.
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Old 09-15-2018, 08:16 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Got the my 22 gallon RCI fuel cell mounted and a Summit Racing fender fill kit with a sweet Motobilt bracket. Also got my Grififin transmission cooler mounted, pretty well built unit.

Also got all the rear link stuff pretty well buttoned up as well as the 2.5"x16" FOA coilovers. The 2.5"x2" bumpstops are tacked on but will need moved a little bit before they are finally burned in.

Great to finally make some visible progress. Of course, all this will have to come off once more for the final weld up.








Last edited by boardbysled; 09-15-2018 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 09-16-2018, 06:51 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Got my fuel pump and fuel filter mounted. Fuel pump is your standard E2000 with a couple fancy mounts I found on Amazon. Fuel filter is a Jeep YJ filter.



Decided to use the filter I bought for my steering as an auxiliary transmission filter. Will get another one for the steering. They are $12 for the mount and filter from Surplus Center. Also mounted a wye off it that has the temp sender for the Trans fan. May change that still, I will need a second sender for my temp gauge.



Also got my rear lightbar mounted that I got from RuffStuff. Pretty slick unit and fits perfect.

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Old 09-17-2018, 01:21 PM   #45 (permalink)
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have a summit link for that fuel filler?
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Old 09-17-2018, 06:14 PM   #46 (permalink)
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have a summit link for that fuel filler?
Fender Fill, few bucks cheaper then the Jaz fender fill:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-290202/overview/

Bracket:
https://www.motobilt.com/motobilt-re...ler-mount.html

I used an aluminum 45* on the filler neck so I didn't have to swap the filler neck to an angled one.

Last edited by boardbysled; 09-17-2018 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 09-18-2018, 08:06 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Fender Fill, few bucks cheaper then the Jaz fender fill:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-290202/overview/

Bracket:
https://www.motobilt.com/motobilt-re...ler-mount.html

I used an aluminum 45* on the filler neck so I didn't have to swap the filler neck to an angled one.
you da man, thank you sir
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Old 10-13-2018, 07:28 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Progress

Modified the stock shifter to allow shifting into reverse without depressing the button on the shifter, just made the gate between N and R a ramp instead of a step. Also disabled the brake safety switch. There is a little tab that activates it that is you bend out of the way will disable it.



Got all the shifters mounted as well as a cheap hydraulic handbrake. Made a plate that brought the stock shifter up and angled it back so I can reach it while belted in.



Overall shot of how it currently sits.


Last edited by boardbysled; 10-21-2018 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 10-21-2018, 06:34 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Little more progress.

Got the passenger seat mounted as well as the headrests. Also mounted a 30 cal ammo can as a waterproof center consule.





Got wore out on the interior stuff and decided to play with tube again. Got the passenger door bars mocked up.





Started work on the dash and got the windshield bars in. Also got the cheap Amazon switch panel mounted. This panel will just be for accessories, I will have a separate panel for winch controls and ignition.



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Old 10-25-2018, 09:03 AM   #50 (permalink)
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looking awesome, love the fact that this is off the beaten path for builds.
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