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Old 02-13-2016, 06:22 AM   #1 (permalink)
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New Barrel Break In

The subject of new barrel break in comes up here a lot. Usually with regards to accuracy and barrel life. There are as many ways to do this as there are shooters, and opinions vary widely. The reason I am posting this here is because it is the best readable explanation I have seen. You will note that this barrel manufacture prefaces the advice shown below with the statement that "whatever works for you, use that method." The advice given below is just that. Worry and despair not, ye sloths and lazy ones. Read the last sentence. It is your get out of jail card. Happy Fouling !!!

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BREAK-IN & CLEANING:
With any premium barrel that has been finish lapped -- such as your Krieger Barrel --, the lay or direction of the finish is in the direction of the bullet travel, so fouling is minimal compared to a barrel with internal tooling marks. This is true of any properly finish-lapped barrel regardless of how it is rifled. If it is not finish-lapped, there will be reamer marks left in the bore that are directly across the direction of the bullet travel. This occurs even in a button-rifled barrel as the button cannot completely iron out these reamer marks.

Because the lay of the finish is in the direction of the bullet travel, very little is done to the bore during break-in, but the throat is another story. When your barrel is chambered, by necessity there are reamer marks left in the throat that are across the lands, i.e. across the direction of the bullet travel. In a new barrel they are very distinct; much like the teeth on a very fine file.

When the bullet is forced into the throat, copper dust is removed from the jacket material and released into the gas which at this temperature and pressure is actually a plasma. The copper dust is vaporized in this plasma and is carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited in the bore. This makes it appear as if the source of the fouling is the bore when it is actually for the most part the new throat.

If this copper is allowed to stay in the bore, and subsequent bullets and deposits are fired over it, copper which adheres well to itself, will build up quickly and may be difficult to remove later. So when we break in a barrel, our goal is to get the throat “polished without allowing copper to build up in the bore. This is the reasoning for the fire-one-shot-and-clean procedure.

Every barrel will vary slightly in how many rounds they take to break in For example a chrome moly barrel may take longer to break in than stainless steel because it is more abrasion resistant even though it is a similar hardness. Also chrome moly has a little more of an affinity for copper than stainless steel so it will usually show a little more color if you are using a chemical cleaner. Rim Fire barrels can take an extremely long time to break in, sometimes requiring several hundred rounds or more. But cleaning can be lengthened to every 25-50 rounds. The break-in procedure and the cleaning procedure are really the same except for the frequency. Remember the goal is to get or keep the barrel clean while breaking in the throat with bullets being fired over it.

Finally, the best way to tell if the barrel is broken in is to observe the patches; i.e. when the fouling is reduced. This is better than some set number of cycles of shoot and clean as many owners report practically no fouling after the first few shots, and more break-in would be pointless. Conversely, if more is required, a set number would not address that either. Besides, cleaning is not a completely benign procedure so it should be done carefully and no more than necessary.
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Old 02-13-2016, 06:38 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Below is the next paragraph. Note the attention paid to observing the color and condition of the early patches. Summary of the advise is that fouling should be removed before excessive subsequent shots bury the base fouling and corrode the throat metal. Virtually every barrel manufacturer and has similar if less detailed recommendations.

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BREAK IN:
The following is a guide to break-in based on our experience. This is not a hard and fast rule, only a guide. Some barrel, chamber, bullet, primer, powder, pressure, velocity etc. combinations may require more cycles some less. It is a good idea to just observe what the barrel is telling you with its fouling pattern and the patches. But once it is broken in, there is no need to continue breaking it in.

Initially you should perform the shoot-one-shot-and-clean cycle for five shots. If fouling hasn't reduced, fire five more cycles and so on until fouling begins to drop off. At that point shoot three shots before cleaning and observe. If fouling is reduced, fire five shots before cleaning. Do not be alarmed if your seating depth gets longer during break in. This is typical of the “high spots in the throat being knocked down during this procedure. It is not uncommon for throat length to grow .005-.030 from a fresh unfired chamber during break in.

Stainless
5-10 one-shot cycles
1 three-shot cycle
1 five-shot cycle

Chrome moly
5 - 25 - one-shot cycles
2 - three-shot cycles
1 - five-shot cycle
Edit: https://kriegerbarrels.com/faq#breakin
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Last edited by Lil Uzi; 02-13-2016 at 06:47 AM.
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Old 02-13-2016, 08:33 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 02-13-2016, 10:00 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredy_C View Post
+1
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Old 02-13-2016, 12:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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i was expecting 3 min of mag dumps for proper break in, but his method seems to work well also. about how i treat everything i own
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Old 02-13-2016, 12:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I also like this one

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Old 02-13-2016, 01:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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"This rifle has a bull barrel. A lot of rifles come with cow barrels, but you want a bull barrel."
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Old 02-13-2016, 03:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Fredy_C View Post
Heh Heh Heh. Let's let you and me do that. I get to throw the weapon, and it's not landing softly ike that. Have a few frostys, Keystone is my pleasure, start the day. Toss the gun. The $399 Savage with scope toss. Then, then, let's shoot some golf balls at 600 yards. Yih Yee !!!
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Last edited by Lil Uzi; 02-13-2016 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 02-13-2016, 03:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil Uzi View Post
Heh Heh Heh. Let's let you and me do that. I get to throw the weapon, and it's not landing softly ike that. Have a few frostys, Keystone is my pleasure, start the day. Toss the gun. The $399 Savage with scope toss. Then, then, let's shoot some golf balls at 600 yards. Yih Yee !!!
Sounds like you have had more than a few...
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Old 02-14-2016, 04:07 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I also like this one

well i know the scope was a US optics which i cant afford, who makes the rifle?
I want one
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Old 02-14-2016, 06:33 AM   #11 (permalink)
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This is one of this subjects that get debated too much and there is no one answer, kind of like muzzle brake design. We all know lots of holes work best, especially for barrel break in.
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Old 02-14-2016, 07:18 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Eh, I shoot until groups open up and then clean. The foul-out makes scrubbing the bore a thing of the pay anyways.
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Old 02-27-2016, 08:37 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Dissenting Opinion on Break In

I know, I read it on the web so it has to be true

http://www.accurateshooter.com/techn...k-in-a-barrel/

here is a good intro to get you reading becoming more expert in every way

Quote:
Gale McMillan, of McMillan Stocks fame, was one of the finest barrel-makers and benchrest shooters of all time. Gail argues that elaborate barrel break-in procedures do more harm than good.
Comments collected from Gale’s Gun Forum postings.
As a barrel maker I have looked in thousands of new and used barrels with a bore scope and I will tell you that if every one followed the prescribed [one shot, one clean] break-in method, a very large number would do more harm than good.
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