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Old 01-13-2020, 07:20 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shefron View Post
Your progress is looking good. How heavy do you think it will be in the end?


Friday I should be picking up a plate 1/4 steel flat bar for the side plates, 1/8 steel plate for the body and maybe 1/4 pipe for spacers between the casters. For the casters I may pick up 12 - 5in or 6in polyurethane on cast iron wheel on ebay for about $240. Little more pricey then making them but time saver and wrong equipment to make them with ease.

Probably will end up with the 6in casters.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Caster-Wh...t/292974160736

Debating on solid mount for the caster wheel or a suspension system.
I think around 500-600lbs without armor.

Do you know what gear ratio, tq, mph yours will have? My minimum is to have tractive effort equal or more than vehicle weight.

What is your ground contact patch size? The track frames I built keep the sprocket and idler off the ground a little bit. This should help with turns and help climb over logs, curbs, etc and keeping a tank type look.

Suspension is cool, but it adds a bunch of complex time consuming parts. Maybe in v2.0. I just want to see this thing roll.
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Old 01-13-2020, 05:21 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Making a little progress each day. Welded in the idler centers and pressed in the bushings.
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Old 01-13-2020, 07:50 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dethmachinefab View Post
I think around 500-600lbs without armor.

Do you know what gear ratio, tq, mph yours will have? My minimum is to have tractive effort equal or more than vehicle weight.

What is your ground contact patch size? The track frames I built keep the sprocket and idler off the ground a little bit. This should help with turns and help climb over logs, curbs, etc and keeping a tank type look.

Suspension is cool, but it adds a bunch of complex time consuming parts. Maybe in v2.0. I just want to see this thing roll.
I received a reading 90 RPM from the measurement tool while running 12V which should be ~173 RPM at 24V. Was hoping the gear reduction was 32:1 but 21:1 will be fine. The motors should be the MP36 ElectroCraft MobilePower motors with the following specs.
Gear ratio: 21.33:1
S2 Torque (15 min) (Nm): 20.94
350 Watts continuous
1000 Watts peak
Weight: 13.8 LBS

Weights
53 LB SK500 tracks each
10 LB Drive sprocket

Not to sure how much it will weight in the end. Still trying to decide on the design. But should have something more solid come friday so I can machine a few parts.
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Old 01-13-2020, 08:13 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Shefron View Post
I received a reading 90 RPM from the measurement tool while running 12V which should be ~173 RPM at 24V. Was hoping the gear reduction was 32:1 but 21:1 will be fine. The motors should be the MP36 ElectroCraft MobilePower motors with the following specs.
Gear ratio: 21.33:1
S2 Torque (15 min) (Nm): 20.94
350 Watts continuous
1000 Watts peak
Weight: 13.8 LBS

Weights
53 LB SK500 tracks each
10 LB Drive sprocket

Not to sure how much it will weight in the end. Still trying to decide on the design. But should have something more solid come friday so I can machine a few parts.
So you should get 5.68mph if you use an 11" sprocket.
The tq seems off, I think it should be higher, probably rated at peak efficiency.
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Old 01-13-2020, 09:03 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dethmachinefab View Post
So you should get 5.68mph if you use an 11" sprocket.
The tq seems off, I think it should be higher, probably rated at peak efficiency.
It might be a little slower but pretty close due to load on the motors.

Our sprockets are fairly similar in size and shape. The teeth on mine are little skinner and a tad longer but should work fine for now. Thank you for the file. I can move forward on the build knowing that it will work.
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Old 01-14-2020, 11:27 AM   #31 (permalink)
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So you should get 5.68mph if you use an 11" sprocket.
The tq seems off, I think it should be higher, probably rated at peak efficiency.
the time stipulation makes me think that's not the max output, but the max sustainable for fifteen minutes before you melt the motor down, or put it into thermal protection.

as you're all going to 24v you can toss all that stuff right out the window.

some temperature monitoring on the motors might be a good idea if you intend to drive it around for extended time.

I'm not sure on that radio choice above, but on the taranis receivers there are some analog pins that you could tap for real basic temp data in the transmitter.

if you go full on controller you could use the pixhawk to read that and send it back, and setup protection modes that would shut it off if temps ran too hot for too long.
also batery voltage , signal loss and tip over protections to shut everything off.
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Old 01-14-2020, 07:39 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 87manche View Post
the time stipulation makes me think that's not the max output, but the max sustainable for fifteen minutes before you melt the motor down, or put it into thermal protection.

as you're all going to 24v you can toss all that stuff right out the window.

some temperature monitoring on the motors might be a good idea if you intend to drive it around for extended time.

I'm not sure on that radio choice above, but on the taranis receivers there are some analog pins that you could tap for real basic temp data in the transmitter.

if you go full on controller you could use the pixhawk to read that and send it back, and setup protection modes that would shut it off if temps ran too hot for too long.
also batery voltage , signal loss and tip over protections to shut everything off.
I'm looking forward to using some of those features. I looked up the transmitter you mentioned, and a few others. What do you suggest for fpv set ups?

As far as overloading the motors, the speed control has thermal protection and should come on before the motors I'm running melt down.
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Old 01-14-2020, 07:44 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Modified the track frames. Track was too close to rubbing on the frame by the idler. Put them in the shear and cut a taper on them. I think they look better this way too. Mocked up a tensioner assembly.
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Old 01-14-2020, 09:37 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I'm looking forward to using some of those features. I looked up the transmitter you mentioned, and a few others. What do you suggest for fpv set ups?

As far as overloading the motors, the speed control has thermal protection and should come on before the motors I'm running melt down.
does it actually monitor motor temp?

if the speed controller is capable of handling more wattage hen the motor and it doesn't monitor the actual motr you can still cook things.

for FPV I would probably stick with a 5.8ghz setup.
do you want goggles or a screen, or both?

5.8 would probably do fine with just a dipole antenna for as far as you want to go.

the taranis and the one posted above both use open tx, so it's well documented how to connect them directly to a pixhawk. basically you can connect one lead to the pixhawk and have all 16 channels ran through it.
it's like drive by wire, by remote control.

you're probably going to want an on screed display as well if you go FPV. it overlays data from the pixhawk into your video feed.
cool shit like heading and distance. plus all your battery info and what not.

https://ardupilot.org/rover/docs/apmrover-setup.html

is where you should start reading.

here's the minim osd board:
https://www.getfpv.com/lumenier-dlux...n-display.html
it also functions as a power supply for your VTX and FPV camera.

full power transmitter
https://www.getfpv.com/lumenier-tx5g...er-switch.html

I've had good luck with the runcam stuff, and they make some cool low light nightime shit too:
https://www.getfpv.com/fpv/cameras.h...nufacturer=436

then pick a set of goggles or a screen, or a receiver to hook up to your own screen.
just make sure it's 5.8ghz and it will work.
there's video switchers that you can run with a switch on the transmitter if you want more than one camera.
you can do pan tilt and slave it to one of the sticks with a switch.
all kinds of super cool shit.

My own taranis I modified to take a multi position knob for flight controller modes instead of having a three position switch.
voided the warranty right off the bat.
lets you change what the transmitter does. So if you have a quad like me I can turn the knob and it will automatically put itself into self holding mode and then switch my FPV feed over to my camera gimbal, slaves my right stick to the camera gimbal and changes how my left stick works so I get strafe instead of yaw.

could be used to switch to turret motors on the stick?
I dont know.
lots of cool shit these days that transmitters do that 10 years ago wasnt even a thought in anyone's head.
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Old 01-14-2020, 10:49 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87manche View Post
does it actually monitor motor temp?

if the speed controller is capable of handling more wattage hen the motor and it doesn't monitor the actual motr you can still cook things.

for FPV I would probably stick with a 5.8ghz setup.
do you want goggles or a screen, or both?

5.8 would probably do fine with just a dipole antenna for as far as you want to go.

the taranis and the one posted above both use open tx, so it's well documented how to connect them directly to a pixhawk. basically you can connect one lead to the pixhawk and have all 16 channels ran through it.
it's like drive by wire, by remote control.

you're probably going to want an on screed display as well if you go FPV. it overlays data from the pixhawk into your video feed.
cool shit like heading and distance. plus all your battery info and what not.

https://ardupilot.org/rover/docs/apmrover-setup.html

is where you should start reading.

here's the minim osd board:
https://www.getfpv.com/lumenier-dlux...n-display.html
it also functions as a power supply for your VTX and FPV camera.

full power transmitter
https://www.getfpv.com/lumenier-tx5g...er-switch.html

I've had good luck with the runcam stuff, and they make some cool low light nightime shit too:
https://www.getfpv.com/fpv/cameras.h...nufacturer=436

then pick a set of goggles or a screen, or a receiver to hook up to your own screen.
just make sure it's 5.8ghz and it will work.
there's video switchers that you can run with a switch on the transmitter if you want more than one camera.
you can do pan tilt and slave it to one of the sticks with a switch.
all kinds of super cool shit.

My own taranis I modified to take a multi position knob for flight controller modes instead of having a three position switch.
voided the warranty right off the bat.
lets you change what the transmitter does. So if you have a quad like me I can turn the knob and it will automatically put itself into self holding mode and then switch my FPV feed over to my camera gimbal, slaves my right stick to the camera gimbal and changes how my left stick works so I get strafe instead of yaw.

could be used to switch to turret motors on the stick?
I dont know.
lots of cool shit these days that transmitters do that 10 years ago wasnt even a thought in anyone's head.
Thanks a ton for the links I appreciate it. Fpv will be set up to a screen, multi camera and I'd like to have some other sensors relay info back. Maybe incline, temp, etc. I've been out of the rc scene for about 15 years so this is all new.

Speed control is close match to the motors, undersized by a small amount. Running two 1500w motors max 62.5a each. Speed control is rated 60a per channel constant, and peak 120a. I will keep an eye on it.
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Old 01-15-2020, 07:37 AM   #36 (permalink)
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inclinometer and shit is all built into a pixhawk.
3 axis gyro is used for flight control already.
Can have that overlaid onto OSD if you want, or you can just have it shown using the pixhawk telemetry.

I use the flightdeck plugins in opentx for my ardupilot telemetry so I can have voice alerts from my TX.
C&T FlightDeck | Craft and Theory, LLC

lets me keep the minimum on my OSD, basically I have heading and distance, RSSI and battery voltage in my OSD.
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Old 01-15-2020, 04:18 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Mock up with tensioner and track on it.
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Old 01-17-2020, 05:20 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Two assembled track frames. I ordered two 10:1 hollow shaft worm gear reduction boxes that will go on each shaft. They are 56c type so it will need some adapting. I hope they will hold up. Rated at 2.06 hp each but usually only run 1750 rpm. My motors should spin 5k at 24v. If it fails I will go back to the chain reduction plan.
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Old 01-17-2020, 10:19 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Had today off from work so I was able to pick up some metal today. 1 stick of 1/2" x 12" x 10', 2 sticks of 1/4" x 12" x 10'.

Knocked out the rear idle wheels and picked up 12 casters from the local store in town for about 15 dollars more than ebay and probably a higher quality. Also changed up the design a little from mounting the drive sprocket to wheelchair motor wheel flange to using the bar with 4 flange bearings. Using the wheel flange would require a 3.5in spacer and wouldnt be able to regear if needed but there is another train of thought to just place the motors inside the side plates to open up more room inside the middle area between the tracks.

Still trying to decided how I want to do the track tension and will probably just copy your design in the end.


Found a program online called Sprocketeer2 for creating DXF of the sprocket for machining.

Also have a selection of end mills from Maritool arriving on Monday since 90% of my current ones were 3 flute for Aluminum.
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Old 01-17-2020, 11:40 PM   #40 (permalink)
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thanks for posting about the sprocket program........ got something in the shop that may be a handy tool for!.......
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Old 01-18-2020, 10:13 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Mother fucking solidworks 2020 is complete trash right now. Been fighting modeling issues every day but switching back to 2019 to avoid all the mating issues, views and other problem. Off the rant box now.

Hopefully I will have one side plate machined today.
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Old 01-18-2020, 05:16 PM   #42 (permalink)
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thanks for posting about the sprocket program........ got something in the shop that may be a handy tool for!.......
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shefron View Post
Mother fucking solidworks 2020 is complete trash right now. Been fighting modeling issues every day but switching back to 2019 to avoid all the mating issues, views and other problem. Off the rant box now.

Hopefully I will have one side plate machined today.
Sprocketeer is one of my favorite free programs. I also loved a free rectangle to round transition program that generated a dxf, but lost it with my old laptop and can no longer download it because the site is gone.

Not much progress here, just waiting on gearboxes. Trying to figure out how to design the lower hull to attach to the track frames but still access tensioners and bearings while maximizing clearance. I'm trying to make this super easy to fab and lend itself to mass production. Sort of like the ak of rc tanks.
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Old 01-18-2020, 09:28 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Machined the left side of the inner side plates and should be machining the right side once I figure out the tension system. Found some take-up bearings on Surplus Center for 12.10 each and I could weld a guide onto the side plates to make it easier.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Bearin...1-205-16-T.axd

Will be ordering the chains, hub adapters, 4 bolt flange bearings and some split collar clamps tomorrow.
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Old 01-19-2020, 12:49 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Placed a large order with surplus center for majority of the drive parts. Total came to $360 and should be here in a week since ABQ is a black hole for shipping. Once the parts arrive I will be verifying the size of the parts before machining the right side of the plates.


Still need to design the jigsaw puzzle for the spacer between the side plates. I did cut 2 - 1/4 x 3in slots into the inner side plate to help with location during welding. Should have them designed up tonight and maybe cut out tomorrow. Did realize that I forgot to cut some vertical slots in the inner plates also.
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Old 01-19-2020, 08:18 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Figured out the side plate spacer unit to go between the 2 side plates. Will be adding some extra bolt hole locations so I can secure plate down in mill before profiling the pieces out of 1/4 late. I do have a buddy with a press break but I hate to take some of his time up since he has a business to run with it.

Left a opening for the casters if I decided to add suspension later on.
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Old 01-21-2020, 05:40 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Mounted the gear reducers. I hope they will hold up to the higher rpms of the motors I am using. I need to make a 56c adapter plate, and make a shaft adapter. The gearbox is 5/8" with a 3/16" key and the motor is 1/2" with a 1/8" key.
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Old Yesterday, 04:42 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Keyway cut. Using a 1/43/16 key to work with the spacer.
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