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Old 04-04-2013, 09:26 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Ohmic starts to be more convenient at 22 gauge with our Z axis, but the machine will cut up to 26ga. The problem with Ohmic is that is doesnt bode well with a water bed or a surface film or rust. The option for CandCNC calls out a second slide and a switch in case the ohmic sensor doesnt pickup the dc voltage when it hits the plate.
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Old 04-04-2013, 11:32 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Did you happen to order the feather touch system with the electronics? Worth the extra cost.
i installed this last week on a system for a buddy........ biggest thing it did was help tighten up the cut consistency. he noticed right off the bat things were looking better cuz the torch height was way more consistent. without getting the whole weight of the torch touching pieces there is much less chance of the piece being cut deflecting at all while doing the touch off at the start of a cut. yes it helps on thin steel but even a large piece of 10ga can flex slightly leading to non proper heights at the start of a cut. the bit i was there to check it out first hand really was impressive how little contact was needed to get things to make contact at the start of a cut. i dont have much time with the setup once it was running but im thinking its worth the minor cost of the upgrade.
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Old 04-05-2013, 04:38 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Ohmic starts to be more convenient at 22 gauge with our Z axis, but the machine will cut up to 26ga. The problem with Ohmic is that is doesnt bode well with a water bed or a surface film or rust. The option for CandCNC calls out a second slide and a switch in case the ohmic sensor doesnt pickup the dc voltage when it hits the plate.
I did turn off the z collision detection due to my water table since I have the breakaway setup. The splashing water can cause issue if you have the z collision detection on. Once I've had the rust issue but then I just splash the plate with a little bit of water.
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Old 04-05-2013, 07:54 AM   #29 (permalink)
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i installed this last week on a system for a buddy........ biggest thing it did was help tighten up the cut consistency. he noticed right off the bat things were looking better cuz the torch height was way more consistent. without getting the whole weight of the torch touching pieces there is much less chance of the piece being cut deflecting at all while doing the touch off at the start of a cut. yes it helps on thin steel but even a large piece of 10ga can flex slightly leading to non proper heights at the start of a cut. the bit i was there to check it out first hand really was impressive how little contact was needed to get things to make contact at the start of a cut. i dont have much time with the setup once it was running but im thinking its worth the minor cost of the upgrade.
It is nice and can be alot better depending on the Z axis backlash, slat spacing and software. We make our own zero backlash nut assemblies here so that takes care of the backlash and in sheetcam you can actually put in your switch travel offset (a number added to pierce height) so it automatically comps for any extra slide travel. Then you have to take into account the slat spacing. Because we have customers who do HVAC we offer slat holders in two different slat spacings. If the slats get too far apart the material will definately warp and ohmic is the only answer. Ohmic sensing has its place but with a big motor and thrust bearing Z axis it isnt ideal to continually load the Z anytime the ohmic sensing fails.

The other side of things is we can tweak the distance travelled before it ever touches off again in sheetcam.
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Old 04-06-2013, 10:16 AM   #30 (permalink)
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overall shot of current progress.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:47 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:08 AM   #32 (permalink)
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awesome job...

I need to mount my control box, someday. How did you attach the plastic box to the bracket?
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:28 PM   #33 (permalink)
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awesome job...

I need to mount my control box, someday. How did you attach the plastic box to the bracket?
Thanks. There are 4 threaded (10-32 iirc) inserts in the plastic box.

First cut(s)!!!

Started cutting and the height on the z-axis went up for some reason so had to stop. Second cut over the first did a bit better. Last pic was with the height control off and looks nice.



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Old 04-11-2013, 05:38 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Made a part and played around with the machine.

I'm sure there will be a learning curve and unexpected things come up, but I can draw and cut a bumper part easily.

Waiting for some slat holders and slats for the table and then I'll filler up. Have about 1/2" of water in there right now.
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Old 04-13-2013, 05:57 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Finished?!

Needs some paint, odds and ends, and the cords arranged neatly but I'm cutting parts.
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:47 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Cut the first 3/8 plate today.



Fresh off the table with no slag removal or grinding...I'm happy with it.

Got a few issues to work through but I'm cutting with it.

The Bobcad is relatively intuitive for me ,at least for the parts we do.

-James
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:16 PM   #37 (permalink)
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The torch splashes water through already cut pieces close to the edge.

Something that is going to happen, but I didn't like that the trucks/bearings were in the line of fire.



Scuzzy area around the trucks^^

My solution (Cut on the table of course. Aluminum):



In action:



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Old 04-22-2013, 06:46 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Still going good, still learning:



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Old 04-22-2013, 07:27 PM   #39 (permalink)
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come on many, you can cluster your parts tighter and get more money per sheet! haha..... looking good
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Old 04-23-2013, 06:31 PM   #40 (permalink)
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come on many, you can cluster your parts tighter and get more money per sheet! haha..... looking good
Thanks.

That's only the second full sheet we've run and the parts were cut one (or two) at a time...we'll get better.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:23 AM   #41 (permalink)
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To keep splash down, I bought a vinyl tarp with fireproof coating and cut it down to make skirts on the sides and ends of my table. They are angled to where they drain into the table. They are all quickly removable with grommets and the tarps can be lightly stretched into place so they are tight. The end skirts are removable for metal loading into the machine.

I am not finished with the installation, but you get the idea.
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:15 AM   #42 (permalink)
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MC, I like the look of your gantry and the build these guys did. I might need one of these soon.

-Dan
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:52 PM   #43 (permalink)
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MC, I like the look of your gantry and the build these guys did. I might need one of these soon.

-Dan
Dan let me know when your ready. There are customers building 5x10 full tables for less than some 4x4 or even 2x2 machines are going for and are getting way more performance.
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:36 PM   #44 (permalink)
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This thing cuts everyday. No problems. Minor learning curve stuff on occasion. I know I still have a lot to learn.



Time to clean the table.



Wet dross in a cardboard box. Not my best idea today:

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Old 06-25-2013, 01:45 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Its time to clean mine too. I am dreading it even more now.
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Old 02-18-2015, 08:45 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Needing to cut some lexan panels and want to use a sacrificial board and screw the lexan down to it...

Anyone have the scoop or link to tutorial on routing with one of these?

Would also like to drill 3/16" holes.

Lexan will be .125 max

Will need to be walked through it
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Old 10-15-2015, 07:22 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Still going strong in the new shop.

Should have gone with a stainless water pan or painted it from the start. Getting some corrosion in it but went ahead with cleanout and maintenance.

Trying to extend the life a few more years. Got some epoxy paint and rolled it on after cleaning out the pan. Had almost a 55 gallon drum full of slag this time.

Also put some stand offs in the pan and welded angle around the perimeter of the water table with holes punched in.

3 reasons:

1. To attach fixtures for cutting tube/spoilboard for routing.

2. It helps keep the water in a bit more.

3. I'm going to bolt a plate atop this out to the limit of the travel to line my sheet up against. This will further help with splashing and no more measuring plate.

It turned out to be a very good idea to caulk the water table and the rails with silicon. I did the rails from the start but the water table only after I knew it was getting under there.

Pic shows new flange, new slats going in and one of the standoffs in the center of the table.


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Old 10-15-2015, 09:08 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Awesome ideas. When you have a chance, can you get some more pics of the angle perimeter idea? I think I get it, but a few pics would really help me.

Great job, as always!
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Old 10-16-2015, 07:03 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Thanks. Here you go:



I'll try to get another pic up when I get the strip cut and bolted to the sides. Piece of metal sitting there represents that.
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