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Old 11-18-2018, 08:08 AM   #1 (permalink)
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My new used $175 table saw

I have been using my Father-in-Law's table saw, but I just wanted my own table saw. I felt funny about hogging his saw, even though he wasn't using it. His is a portable jobsite saw, and I bought a 2004 cast iron top craftsman table saw. I was looking at buying the Hitachi jobsite saw, but decided to see what I could find on craigslist and came across this one. It has a built in router table and I am planning on using that as well.

This saw was in the previous owners basement for 14 years and said the last time he used it was 10 years ago. most of the top is still caked with the shipping grease.

I still need to read the manuals and figure out what some of these accessories are for. So, what do you think, good deal for $175?

Also, what would I clean off the grease with and apply to protect the surface?




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Old 11-18-2018, 01:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I think it's worth the $175. Is it belt to a 1-1/2 (aka sears rated 3hp)hp motor or direct drive?

Cast iron top and router extension alone, upgraded fence from the earlier crapsman shit. Lot of people have done a lot on a lot less. Take some time to clean it up and dial it in. Aligning the blade to the miter slots, the fence to the blade. Plenty of utubes out there for that.

Grease if a lot, scrape with plastic putty knife, credit card, bondo spreader, spatula from $1 store.

I like mineral spirits & rag (steel wool is often mentioned) after that. Brake cleaner works where there isn't paint/plastics. Paste wax to protect the metal. Be sure not to use automotive wax, you'll run into issues with wood finishes. Woodworking forums should give some brand recommendations.

Is there a splitter/guard?
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Old 11-18-2018, 06:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yes, it came with a splitter and blade guard. We had to remove it, along with the base to get it out of his basement. Also, I just noticed today that the router table attachment is on the wrong side. It is supposed to be on the left side of the saw. It also came with the router mounting kit, and I do plan to attach my $70 Ryobi router to it.

Edit: Yes, it has the belt drive with the motor hanging off the back. I would have preferred direct drive, but to buy a new saw like this would have cost $600 and would not have the router extension.

Looks like I am going to have to take the saw off the rolling stand and flip it over to swap the extension tables around.

Also, it came with a $40 Diablo 10" 60 tooth blade, which I would have purchased with any saw I ended up buying anyway.
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Last edited by thedonn007; 11-19-2018 at 05:17 AM.
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Old 11-19-2018, 12:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i'd say that most woodworking weekend warriors have the same saw or a version of that saw, i've had mine since new in 1981
as mentioned that fence is a definite upgrade, though most of us get by with the oem version just fine
belt drive is the better of the 2, you can cut a 4x4 vs only 3" with the direct drive
belt drive has more oomph and in a jam (literal) the belt will slip

i had the router on my extension table and didn't like it to well
setup times doubled or more when your using the same table for both
look at my low $$ router table, been using this version for many years
just a melamine board screwed to the workbench with the router mounted underneath
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Old 11-19-2018, 12:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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For most folks these are great saws. Having the cast iron router wing is a bonus. Once you mount a router in it, you may notice that it wants to tip to that side when rolling it around. Shouldn't want to tip when sitting on its feet.

Things to upgrade.

Determine if the pulleys are aluminum or not. if they are, replace them with machined cast steel, then run a link belt. This will reduce vibration to almost nothing.

With the open back and the motor hanging off it, dust collection is nearly impossible. It is easy to seal it up with a thin sheet of anything, but you have to take it off to cut angles. I tried rare earth magnets to mount the sheet of thin plastic, but there was enough vibration that it would slide. I should have just pinned it on each side, but decide to use screws. I wrote a note on the front where the release lever it to remind myself to remove the dust shield.

Johnson's paste wax works great on all the old iron I have.
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Old 11-19-2018, 07:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I think you did well. I would move the fence over, I don’t think you need that much fence on the left side of the blade.

Paste wax and make yourself some push sticks. Nice enough to want to use them but not nice enough to care when you run a blade through one.

It seems like you are used to using one but my saw still scares me more than any other cool, including a chain saw. The bigger the saw the easier is will cut your fingers off. Use the guard and riving knife and pay attention.
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Old 11-19-2018, 08:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I had a similar one, the cast iron top is nice. I wish mine had a riving knife on it though, I like those.

I don't have a table saw anymore, but I'd like one.
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Old 11-20-2018, 05:04 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _ogre View Post
i'd say that most woodworking weekend warriors have the same saw or a version of that saw, i've had mine since new in 1981
as mentioned that fence is a definite upgrade, though most of us get by with the oem version just fine
belt drive is the better of the 2, you can cut a 4x4 vs only 3" with the direct drive
belt drive has more oomph and in a jam (literal) the belt will slip

i had the router on my extension table and didn't like it to well
setup times doubled or more when your using the same table for both
look at my low $$ router table, been using this version for many years
just a melamine board screwed to the workbench with the router mounted underneath
From the pictures I can find online, I believe the fence is factory. Maybe it was a factory upgrade? A router accessory kit was included with the saw and it looks like there is a router fence that attaches to the table saw fence slots.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yakataga View Post
For most folks these are great saws. Having the cast iron router wing is a bonus. Once you mount a router in it, you may notice that it wants to tip to that side when rolling it around. Shouldn't want to tip when sitting on its feet.

Things to upgrade.

Determine if the pulleys are aluminum or not. if they are, replace them with machined cast steel, then run a link belt. This will reduce vibration to almost nothing.

With the open back and the motor hanging off it, dust collection is nearly impossible. It is easy to seal it up with a thin sheet of anything, but you have to take it off to cut angles. I tried rare earth magnets to mount the sheet of thin plastic, but there was enough vibration that it would slide. I should have just pinned it on each side, but decide to use screws. I wrote a note on the front where the release lever it to remind myself to remove the dust shield.

Johnson's paste wax works great on all the old iron I have.
Thanks I will have to buy some of that paste wax. I will clean off the 14 year old grease and slather it with the wax. I have been doing some research on the dust collection, and that is one thing that I do not like about this saw. However, I am not even up to the weekend woodworker level yet so hopefully I can rig something up as you suggested.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tab2 View Post
I think you did well. I would move the fence over, I donít think you need that much fence on the left side of the blade.

Paste wax and make yourself some push sticks. Nice enough to want to use them but not nice enough to care when you run a blade through one.

It seems like you are used to using one but my saw still scares me more than any other cool, including a chain saw. The bigger the saw the easier is will cut your fingers off. Use the guard and riving knife and pay attention.
Thanks, yea, I have some experience with table saws, but every time I use one I am concerned about getting hurt. Same goes for my compound sliding miter saw and circular saw. I could have taken my wife's grandfather's radial arm saw, but let her uncle take it. Radial arm saws "scare" me the most.
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Old 11-20-2018, 12:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The earlier ones came with a really cheap fence. The single guide tube (biesemeyer) in the front really improved the usability and accuracy (repeatability) of homeowner tablesaws.

Before all the political signs are gone, go grab some. Make an inverted pyramid funnel for underneath dust collection and cut some up to seal the back. You have to leave a slot for the belt to ride when tilting the blade, but you can get creative with a piece that covers the slot and is attached to any of the tilting parts so it keeps the slot covered.
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Old 11-20-2018, 07:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Well, I was able to tip the table saw over on its top, and back on its legs again to swap the router and sheet metal extensions. The router extension is now on the correct side. I also adjusted the fence rails to maximize the rip capacity. I need to fix the one off switch, it is only held on by one screw to the fence rail.

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Last edited by thedonn007; 11-20-2018 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 11-23-2018, 06:26 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Here is a short video of what the top looks like now. The plastic scrapper was not cutting it, so I used a metal scraper. I then used WD-40 and a scotch pad.

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Last edited by thedonn007; 11-23-2018 at 03:24 PM.
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