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Old 01-18-2019, 01:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Lets talk Little tractors

Bought me a JD 1025 a couple years ago.
Sure it has its limitations but nothings broke on it yet. It's making me a little money doing water service lines and some other trenching.
I heard there's a way to turn up the hydro pump a little? Anybody done this and was it worth the effort?
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Old 01-18-2019, 02:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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My 1020 MF had a check valve on the loader valve that i was able to turn in to be able to have more power to the loader. Not sure if you can increase the pressure on the pump itself.
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Old 01-18-2019, 02:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You can shim the system pressure relief valve on some equipment and itís a nice improvement as long as you didnít go wild, the factory sets compact tractors up very conservatively to keep Johnny homeowner from turning them over.

I upped my system PSI. by 250 lbs. and it made a big difference on my little Kubota BX25.
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Old 01-18-2019, 03:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You can shim the system pressure relief valve on some equipment and itís a nice improvement as long as you didnít go wild, the factory sets compact tractors up very conservatively to keep Johnny homeowner from turning them over.

I upped my system PSI. by 250 lbs. and it made a big difference on my little Kubota BX25.
Thats what I had in mind. Just to give the backhoe a little more nuts.
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Old 01-18-2019, 03:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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My 1020 MF had a check valve on the loader valve that i was able to turn in to be able to have more power to the loader. Not sure if you can increase the pressure on the pump itself.
Where was this valve? I have a 1010 with a 1014 loader and it's painfully slow to lift and tilt. It's also hydrostatic and pretty anemic in the drive department. Pretty sure it's the same pump. I'd love to give it a little more go juice.
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Old 01-18-2019, 03:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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had a 2305 for a long time and switched to a 1025R for the drive over deck - had a bum arm for about a year.

2305 had the ergonomics of a turd, but imho was a much better tractor. I'm not much impressed with the 1025, so I'll be following this.
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Old 01-18-2019, 04:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Bought me a JD 1025 a couple years ago.
Sure it has its limitations but nothings broke on it yet. It's making me a little money doing water service lines and some other trenching.
I heard there's a way to turn up the hydro pump a little? Anybody done this and was it worth the effort?
Sell it and buy a bigger tractor. Or go to a PTO pump.
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Old 01-18-2019, 05:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Sell it and buy a bigger tractor. Or go to a PTO pump.
I figured you'd show up with some useless gum flapping.
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Old 01-18-2019, 05:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Where was this valve? I have a 1010 with a 1014 loader and it's painfully slow to lift and tilt. It's also hydrostatic and pretty anemic in the drive department. Pretty sure it's the same pump. I'd love to give it a little more go juice.
It was on the back of the loader valve IIRC. A 8mm slotted stud with a jam nut. When I got it it wouldn't pick up a full bucket of dirt, after a couple turns of the screw it would pick up the back of the tractor. I'm pretty sure mine had the 1014 loader.
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Old 01-18-2019, 07:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Where was this valve? I have a 1010 with a 1014 loader and it's painfully slow to lift and tilt. It's also hydrostatic and pretty anemic in the drive department. Pretty sure it's the same pump. I'd love to give it a little more go juice.
The hydrostatic drive will be its own pumps (main and charge) and motor, sometimes all in one case. It is a closed loop system, whereas the remainder of your machine is open loop.
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Old 01-18-2019, 07:35 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I figured you'd show up with some useless gum flapping.
As long as it's not a charge pump based system, which I don't think it is, you'd be fine to adjust up a little from 2000psi. The adjustment is a screw on the loader valve in a hard to get to spot. Do you have a pressure gauge to make sure you're getting 2000 now? I have always wanted to put a permanent gauge in my 4300 someday just to keep an eye on load limits, might be a good idea if running over the factory setting.
Check and see what elses uses that BH if you're worried, or see if you can find the manual and find out if it was put on something with more pressure.

This adjustment won't really speed up anything except when you are near the pressure limit. If you want faster, get a PTO pump.

And of course you know this is how nice things get broken.
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Old 01-19-2019, 06:28 AM   #12 (permalink)
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There is a reason the manufacturer sets the relief where they do. Cranking it up is only a recipe for failure of something. Spec is 1986psi, there is no +/- on that, so Id recommend keeping it under 2000.
That is basically a riding lawn mower with a loader and backhoe on it, you are expecting too much from it.
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Old 01-19-2019, 07:36 AM   #13 (permalink)
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There is a reason the manufacturer sets the relief where they do. Cranking it up is only a recipe for failure of something. Spec is 1986psi, there is no +/- on that, so Id recommend keeping it under 2000.
That is basically a riding lawn mower with a loader and backhoe on it, you are expecting too much from it.
1986PSI? Per TractorData.com John Deere 1025R tractor information the OP's tractor should be set to 2000PSI.
Often it will be off from the factory, so one will need a gauge to check the current pressure, then adjust it a little and check it again.
With a loader and a backhoe, they will both have separate relief's so both will need to be adjusted.

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Old 01-19-2019, 08:35 AM   #14 (permalink)
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That is basically a riding lawn mower with a loader and backhoe on it, you are expecting too much from it.
This. Don't push those very hard or you'll be scattering part #'s all over the place!
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Old 01-19-2019, 09:52 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Thats what I had in mind. Just to give the backhoe a little more nuts.
Before you do any adjusting Iíd add a gauge and see what your attachment circuit is running from the factory, sometimes they are very conservatively set from the manufacturer.

I misspoke before , I have a Kubota 2230 with a L211 loader and when I installed my gauge I found that I was about 100 psi under the factory 1,750 psi spec. from the get-go.

I made a bunch of relief shims at work and started adding and checking till I was at 2,000 psi , the change was a much sharper operating loader with way more break-out power. The rest of the components are rated at a max. operating psi of 2,200 so I should be fine .. my only real worry is the front differential because I use it like a D9 Cat dozer now!

For what itís worth I did this mod. over 12 years ago and have had no broken parts and my tractor gets used a lot.
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Old 01-19-2019, 11:10 AM   #16 (permalink)
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It was on the back of the loader valve IIRC. A 8mm slotted stud with a jam nut. When I got it it wouldn't pick up a full bucket of dirt, after a couple turns of the screw it would pick up the back of the tractor. I'm pretty sure mine had the 1014 loader.
Definitely going to look at it this weekend. The lift cylinders will stall before it can lift the ass off the ground. The tilt seems to have a little more power so when I'm trying to pick something heavy up off my trailer, I usually have to use the tilt to do it.


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The hydrostatic drive will be its own pumps (main and charge) and motor, sometimes all in one case. It is a closed loop system, whereas the remainder of your machine is open loop.
Makes more sense. I know they share the same fluid reservoir and I didn't think much beyond that.

It's a beater tractor that I picked up a for a couple grand on ebay about 5 years ago. It's more than paid for itself and is pretty much overkill for my little 1.5 acre lot, but man it's pretty damn convenient and I can't see myself not having at least a little machine like this on any property.
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Old 01-19-2019, 12:29 PM   #17 (permalink)
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1986PSI? Per TractorData.com John Deere 1025R tractor information the OP's tractor should be set to 2000PSI.
Often it will be off from the factory, so one will need a gauge to check the current pressure, then adjust it a little and check it again.
With a loader and a backhoe, they will both have separate relief's so both will need to be adjusted.

Aaron Z
Service advisor-Deere service tool shows 1986psi. Its actually rated in BAR, so someone likely rounded up. Were talking 14psi... You will get that much fluctuation in gages.
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Old 01-19-2019, 08:02 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I just ordered a gauge and quick connect setup. If it's close to the factory spec I'll just leave it.
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Old 01-20-2019, 07:10 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I just looked up the spec and for a 1025R the relief valve spec is 2050 - 2250 psi
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Old 01-24-2019, 01:21 PM   #20 (permalink)
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any write-ups on this? im curious about adding the shims and where/how to check the factory pressure. i would love to get a (little) more juice from my BX23S.
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Old 01-24-2019, 07:07 PM   #21 (permalink)
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any write-ups on this? im curious about adding the shims and where/how to check the factory pressure. i would love to get a (little) more juice from my BX23S.
BXpanded makes a kit for your tractor: https://bxpanded.com/pressure-tester

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Old 02-12-2019, 06:18 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Its not a pressure thing, its a flow/volume issue. My koyker loader comes with either 1.5 cylinders or 2.0 cylinders, the 2.0" cylinders are rated for more lift weight capacity but half the speed of the 1.5 cylinders. Its not a direct correlation due to valves and hose sizes are not proportional. I have a Jinma 184 chinese tractor, I looked at updating and it truly requires a pump, valve and hose changes to take advantage of the faster speeds you want. Tim

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Old 02-12-2019, 06:34 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I'm surprised that the little tractor can dig deep enough to put in a water line.

I rented a John Deere once, forget the model but was about 35hp. I wasn't expecting it to work as well as a skid steer, but it was almost laughable. Couldn't even fill the small bucket 3/4 full of dry topsoil without it standing on the front axle. That was even with landscape rake on the back.
Bucket held maybe 1/3 of a yard, so ~600-700lbs.
It would have been utterly useless if it hadn't been 4wd.

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Old 02-13-2019, 07:00 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I wasn't expecting it to work as well as a skid steer, but it was almost laughable.
How much weight is hanging off the back of a skid steer behind the axle vs a tractor? Its an issue with alot of the newer tractors that have tried to make them shorter wheelbases and compact them.

We usually ran the brushchopper on the back or a bin of wood. Both of these put the weight back at least 4 feet and added leverage to that weight.

Newer ones also all need their tires loaded from what I have seen.
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Old 02-13-2019, 07:16 AM   #25 (permalink)
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How much weight is hanging off the back of a skid steer behind the axle vs a tractor? Its an issue with alot of the newer tractors that have tried to make them shorter wheelbases and compact them.

We usually ran the brushchopper on the back or a bin of wood. Both of these put the weight back at least 4 feet and added leverage to that weight.

Newer ones also all need their tires loaded from what I have seen.
Yep, you have to have weight when using a loader on something like that. I've got a JD 4300 and it will tricycle if there isn't plenty of weight on the 3-point. I've got the wheel off a box car laying down on a 3-point platform carrier with a stack of car batteries on it plus it has a hard cab. That is about the right amount of weight for loading heaping buckets of sand in a 1/3 yard bucket in 2wd and feeling safe. If I try to pick up something really stupid with the forks on, it will still lift the rear wheels but it takes a FIBC of wet sand.
You have to know the limits, and capabilities of the machine. Sometimes you need to fire up the 6v71 in the clarke 175 and do work.
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