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Old 01-22-2020, 06:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Partitioning a steel building

I am in the process of ordering a 50x80x16 steel building. Half of it will be storage with the other half my heated shop.
I will need to partition it down the center to give me 2 40x50 areas, the building manufacturers I am working with dont really care to offer a partition wall and tell me I am better off using steel studs or something similar.
Ive never used steel studs before and am wondering how tall they can span? The center of the building will be around 22' tall, I cant find any steel studs over 12'.

Is there a better way to do this than steel studs? I would prefer to avoid wood, however it could be an option as well.
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Old 01-22-2020, 06:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I just built a 50 x 100 and my manufacturer was able to build a full height, insulated demising wall with siding on one side fully sealed so each half is independent from each other. One side is shop the other is living quarters.

I would find a different builder / manufacturer as mine turned out great.
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Old 01-22-2020, 07:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Steel studs are available to 24'. Other option are LSL Timberstrand Studs.
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Old 01-22-2020, 07:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I just built a 50 x 100 and my manufacturer was able to build a full height, insulated demising wall with siding on one side fully sealed so each half is independent from each other. One side is shop the other is living quarters.

I would find a different builder / manufacturer as mine turned out great.
Theyre willing to do it, just being a pain in the butt about it. This is 3 different manufacturers all telling me to just frame it myself. Id rather have what you are describing as it sounds much easier. The first manufacturer came back with $4k to do the wall, which is about 15% of the total price.
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Old 01-22-2020, 07:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Does the storage area have to be full height and free span... having a second story above your storage area would be pretty awesome...
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Old 01-22-2020, 08:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I just built a 50 x 100 and my manufacturer was able to build a full height, insulated demising wall with siding on one side fully sealed so each half is independent from each other. One side is shop the other is living quarters.

I would find a different builder / manufacturer as mine turned out great.
Builder?
I designed my ultimate man cave/shop that will fit within a 60x90 (60x32 residence, 60x58 shop) building and am very interested.
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Old 01-22-2020, 08:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acm05 View Post
I just built a 50 x 100 and my manufacturer was able to build a full height, insulated demising wall with siding on one side fully sealed so each half is independent from each other. One side is shop the other is living quarters.

I would find a different builder / manufacturer as mine turned out great.
mind listing the builder you went with? ... Ive been taking quotes for the last month and had less than stellar service from the 5 places i have talked to so far.
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Old 01-22-2020, 09:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Run light steel beams or box tubes for posts down the center and weld angles horizontal between them. Then attach your tin or panels to it. This is how I do it when a customer wants a room or area sectioned off.

Last one i built was with 4x4x1/8" box tube posts and 3x3x3/16 angles welded between. Cheap and easy to put up. On this building the top attached to the bar joist with a stud and poly isolators between to allow some movement. Customer is a food facility, the walls were pvc extruded panels for a fully washdown room.
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Old 01-23-2020, 01:22 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I’ve done a 20’ wall with steel studs and it will be fine. The studs seems long and wobbly at first but once 12’ of rock went on it was solid.

+1 on planning for a mezzanine, even if you just put the beams in the wall for now and build it later.

It’s a bitch once the rock is in and you decide you want one.
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Old 01-23-2020, 01:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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On ours we just used some light wall rectangle tubing as the uprights to the truss and then ran 6" purlins between the rectangle tubes to anchor the tin to.

You can even make your own by welding 6" purlins lip to lip to make a box.
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Old 01-23-2020, 07:36 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Builder?
I designed my ultimate man cave/shop that will fit within a 60x90 (60x32 residence, 60x58 shop) building and am very interested.
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mind listing the builder you went with? ... Ive been taking quotes for the last month and had less than stellar service from the 5 places i have talked to so far.
Guthrie Buildings out of Spring Texas. I dealt with Nathan, he is the son of the owner. My exact building was a little less than 50 wide by 80 long with an additional 20 of lean too on the short end. Also has a full 12 by 40 porch on one side. 12 side walls with almost 18 peak. 3 roll up doors, full insulated with a ridge vent and louvers on the ends. 5 slab with 2 grade beams turn key was about $30 a square foot. I highly recommend him but not sure how far he will travel as he is a local guy but went 75 miles out of Houston for me.
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Old 01-23-2020, 11:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info
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Old 01-24-2020, 05:20 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Just put up pallet racking and screw sidding to one side of it. You get your wall and some storage all in one.
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Old 01-27-2020, 07:25 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Use the stiffening bars that go in the steel studs and you will be fine.
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Old 01-27-2020, 11:21 AM   #15 (permalink)
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After going round and round with 2 different manufacturers Ive decided to skip having a wall included, it was going to be closer to $6k all said and done which isnt worth it.
I am leaning towards wood for ease of building it, and I could easily tie a mezzanine into it.
However I do like the idea of steel tube, either 4x4 or 3x3. For those that went the steel route how did you tie into the ceiling rafters? Did you weld it or ? I am a little concerned about movement in them, as I will probably have a floating slab. I could build a U bracket at the top to allow for some expansion/contraction and stuff some backer rod or something similar in there.
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Old 01-30-2020, 08:40 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I hear that Jim Haulman will put up a building with a divider wall pretty cheap.

I think about your last building every time I go by that crook's place.

In all seriousness, steel studs are very simple and fast to work with. There's a bit of a learning curve, but if the price is comparable and you don't need a load bearing wall I prefer to use them. Pioneer Materials West has long steel studs IIRC.
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Old 01-30-2020, 10:19 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepermat View Post
After going round and round with 2 different manufacturers Ive decided to skip having a wall included, it was going to be closer to $6k all said and done which isnt worth it.
I am leaning towards wood for ease of building it, and I could easily tie a mezzanine into it.
However I do like the idea of steel tube, either 4x4 or 3x3. For those that went the steel route how did you tie into the ceiling rafters? Did you weld it or ? I am a little concerned about movement in them, as I will probably have a floating slab. I could build a U bracket at the top to allow for some expansion/contraction and stuff some backer rod or something similar in there.
On ours we just welded the wall studs (rectangle tubing) directly to the truss and to anchors in the floor. If it was going to move it isn't now! It's not really any different than an end wall on your building...
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Old 01-31-2020, 03:53 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepermat View Post
After going round and round with 2 different manufacturers Ive decided to skip having a wall included, it was going to be closer to $6k all said and done which isnt worth it.
I am leaning towards wood for ease of building it, and I could easily tie a mezzanine into it.
However I do like the idea of steel tube, either 4x4 or 3x3. For those that went the steel route how did you tie into the ceiling rafters? Did you weld it or ? I am a little concerned about movement in them, as I will probably have a floating slab. I could build a U bracket at the top to allow for some expansion/contraction and stuff some backer rod or something similar in there.
Are you bar joist or beams? I used poly isolators in the connection on the last job. This was because the 2nd floor i was partitioning was under built and would bounce with forklift traffic. I wanted to minimize the transfer to roof.

Just build caps for the vertical tubes, with a hole centered and nut welded to back side. Thread stud in. Isolators on both sides and your attachment in the middle.

I'm doing another one in a few months. I will take pics if you haven't finished yours by then.
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Old 01-31-2020, 04:31 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Are you bar joist or beams? I used poly isolators in the connection on the last job. This was because the 2nd floor i was partitioning was under built and would bounce with forklift traffic. I wanted to minimize the transfer to roof.

Just build caps for the vertical tubes, with a hole centered and nut welded to back side. Thread stud in. Isolators on both sides and your attachment in the middle.

I'm doing another one in a few months. I will take pics if you haven't finished yours by then.
They will be beams. Isolator idea sounds good, as we have expansive soils here and the slab will be floating.
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Old 02-09-2020, 08:00 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Be sure to post build progress pics, I've been researching more steel buildings for a shop\home combo in the future.
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Old 02-10-2020, 05:08 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I hear that Jim Haulman will put up a building with a divider wall pretty cheap.

I think about your last building every time I go by that crook's place.

In all seriousness, steel studs are very simple and fast to work with. There's a bit of a learning curve, but if the price is comparable and you don't need a load bearing wall I prefer to use them. Pioneer Materials West has long steel studs IIRC.
That POS's X Wife recently tried to refinance their home. I had a call from a title company asking where to send my judgement payoff check from him. I assume they changed their mind after adding up all of the judgments he has against him, by my math it was upwards of $200k.

Do you have any concrete contractor recommendations? I know of 1 that I would trust, but he is really high.
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