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Old 06-23-2006, 07:29 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Built a truntable to plasma out my beadlock rings....



Simple but works great.
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Old 06-23-2006, 08:17 PM   #27 (permalink)
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homemade stick welder

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Old 06-24-2006, 06:09 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xjmark
I did all my axle work on this thing from disassembly and cleaning, to bracket work, to hanging the axles under the rig. It's One of the most labor saving tools I have put together. Ever tried positioning a D60 on a floor jack?

(posted up earier this year, but the thread is buried)
I converted an old folding chair cart into a rolling axle stand.
Welded an angle iron upright with a 3" muffler clamp to the base.
The other (left) upright is welded to a sliding mount that can be moved from 6" to 48" apart to fit any axle/bracket combo. The muffler clamps lock the axle in place, and is good for grinding, setting up brackets, or gear setup. The axle can rotate 360* and lock into place with the twist of a 9/16 wrench.
Moving the whole thing around without losing preset working angles is a piece of cake.

I built something similar to this for my axle projects

It's just a few pieces of 2" square tube, and an old creeper frame.


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To hold the axle steady, I just old u-bolts tightened down.
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Old 06-24-2006, 06:20 AM   #29 (permalink)
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For my out of truck engine maintenance, such as clutch replacement, rear main seal, yada yada. I just slapped some angle iron together, so that engine will rest on the lip of the oil pan. Worked great for the tranny swap I did last Jan.


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Old 06-25-2006, 05:16 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Plane of bend tool. Not as cool as some on here but it works pisser. Got the idea from SmashMetal on OFN.





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Old 06-25-2006, 08:27 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Left to right, the tool creeper, for when you have a bunch of tools to drag around. Also comes in handy as a ground level creeper seat. I did have some diamond plate in it for a bottom, but it has been awhile since I worked in the shop and I misplaced it.

Next, what started out as a cheater pipe for my ratchet I modified for a steering box input shaft seal driver for semi truck steer boxes.

The two bars with the small ends are for tensioning the springs on overhead doors. I wanted to do it right and turn them down on the lathe but I ended up using a pedestal grinder.

Last is an anchor pin bushing driver. It is used for doing brake jobs on semis and semi trailers. I did use the lathe on this one, and a torch to cut the notch. The notch is so it will fit around the hub.

I did make a few pullers here and there, but I must have either given them away or tossed them in the scrap when I was done.

Last edited by Urban Wheeler; 06-25-2006 at 08:29 AM.
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Old 06-26-2006, 07:28 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I'm building my first full cage from scratch, and math isn't one of my strong points. (had to threaten the math teacher to graduate H.S. 17 years ago)
I've been uising the Bendin' Tube 101 tech write-up with great results, until I got to a compound bend. Tried doing the math, but the beers ain't helping any. Tried holding the tubing up in the air and measuring what I needed, but that didn't work either.

So, I trimmed off an old stock xj draglink joint, shaved and welded it to some 1 3/4" tubing. Took another section of tubing, and welded a washer and matching castlenut to the end of it. To get a little more usable angle, I trimmed a groove into the inner edge of the joint with a carbide bit.

I now can clamp this gauge into position on the rig, and take measurements off of it. The joint holds steady where you set it, and now gets from 0* to 25* of range.


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Old 06-28-2006, 10:41 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Not mine, but a handy tool nonetheless.
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Old 06-28-2006, 09:05 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Ive posted this before but here it is again...

My home brew axle stand...

14bolt on my stand...


&
RC60Hp on my stand too...




AW
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Old 06-28-2006, 09:25 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AprilzWarrior
My home brew axle stand...

14bolt on my stand...





AW
Fuck the stand Did you make that 14 bolt truss/DS skid ! That is sweet!
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Old 06-28-2006, 09:51 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaBass44
Fuck the stand Did you make that 14 bolt truss/DS skid ! That is sweet!
that's a BTF offering, very good peice.
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Old 06-28-2006, 10:11 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gouky
that's a BTF offering, very good peice.

I saw the look of BTF to it, but have never seen that one before, nice!
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Old 06-29-2006, 07:48 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaBass44
I saw the look of BTF to it, but have never seen that one before, nice!

Yeah BTF Truss and Disk monts.
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Old 06-29-2006, 08:49 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AprilzWarrior
My home brew axle stand...

14bolt on my stand...
AW
Nice work,do you have any pictures of the bottom of it? Kinda wondering how big the base needs to be.
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Old 06-29-2006, 07:19 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Home made tap handles
small on is made of 5/16" key stock, large one is 1/2" key stock
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Old 06-29-2006, 10:32 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsloth
Nice work,do you have any pictures of the bottom of it? Kinda wondering how big the base needs to be.
Stands 43" tall 42" wide and 18" deep, 6" from the ground.
Mostly 2"x2" square stock .025 wall. Thats what I had and some expanded steel 1/8"

Link to original thread...
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=432876

Thanks
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Old 07-01-2006, 10:43 AM   #42 (permalink)
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A friend of mind something similar with two pieces of flat stock bolted together. You can go 0-180 with it.
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Old 07-01-2006, 01:24 PM   #43 (permalink)
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I put this third membrer holder together about 5 years ago....



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Old 09-19-2006, 06:44 AM   #44 (permalink)
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I needed a "tumbler" for some bulk rifle and pistol brass, but didn't have the change to pick up one of the new ones that hold enough to do the job. Small rotary ones (typically for polishing rocks) don't hold enough and are worthless, so I built my own.

I took a small freon canister, pulled the valve to make sure it was not pressurized, then used a saber saw to cut a "door" in the side of the cannister. I tack welded a pair of steel hinges to one side of the door and an old tool box latch (the wire strap that snaps shut, holding the lid down) on the other side. I cut an old piece of rubber to cover the door, extending it just a tad larger than the cut out opening so that it doesn't leak the tumbling media.

I next cut off the handles to the cannister, and used the valve mounting spud as the bearing end of the tumbler. My particular canister had a round spud where the valve went into the can, so it was a natural bearing point. If your particular canister doesn't have this, it would be no big deal to puncture the can with a piece of round stock, welded in place.

The "frame" for this tumbler is made from 2 x 6 lumber. Cheap and simple, just screw it together in the appropriate size. I just drilled an upright to hold the spud, stuck in some grease and stuck the spud right into the wood. That suffices for a bearing in this case, but you could easily upgrade that part if need be.

On the opposite end (the bottom) I drilled, then filed a square hole the size of a bar-b-que rotisserie drive (I actually used an old one laying around for stock). And, yes, I used the rotisserie motor to direct-drive the drum. It works very well, and you can always find them at rummage sales for a buck or so if they burn out. I mounted the motor on an upright opposite of the one that holds up the top of the drum, allowing the rotisserie motor to support that end. It turns it perfectly.

For media, almost anything could be used depending on what you wanted to polish. For rusty nuts and bolts, a person could just throw in a small scoop of sand. For the brass, I used ground corn cob media, which is soft enough to not etch the brass, but it sure did polish it nicely. I added some "Brasso" polish to the media to make it work better and I got a great shine on some very dull brass. I guess you could throw in a bunch of BB's, sawdust (for gentle polishing) sand, glass beads, aluminum oxide, etc., for almost any polishing task.

I'll try to add a few pictures in the next couple of days. We're right in the middle of a move and when I unearth the tumbler, I'll get a shot posted.

My total cost for this project was under $10. I built this over 15 years ago and it has run all those years with no problems. I just grease the hole for the bearing spud once in a while, and I've had to replace one rotisserie motor over that time. Otherwise, it has performed flawlessly and it holds about 10 pounds of "stuff."
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Old 09-19-2006, 08:59 AM   #45 (permalink)
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On that stick welder ... how big is that motor? What do you think you could get away with,motor wise? And lastly how big is the alternator?

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Old 09-20-2006, 09:44 AM   #46 (permalink)
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A set of low profile torque adapters. In my aircraftin days, I used to have to torque the jamnuts on some bulkhead fittings that were in a real crowded area. I cut off a tappet wrench and the drive end of a bit driver and welded them together. Since I broke up the set of wrenches, I made a whole set of torque adapters out of them.
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Old 09-20-2006, 07:57 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Ball joint adjuster tool for D44.
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Old 09-20-2006, 08:00 PM   #48 (permalink)
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D60 locknut socket support bushing. Makes torquing the locknut a lot easier. Put the socket on the locknut, slide the bushing over the socket and it fits the hub holding the socket centered.

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Old 09-20-2006, 08:02 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Angled grease gun extension.

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Old 09-21-2006, 03:45 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Simple, but handy! Portable vise. Rolls to where you need it, and even has a ground lug and MIG holster
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