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Old 09-28-2009, 09:57 AM   #151 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPOM View Post
All the crap on it is from me getting rid of excess stickout
I do the same thing on my ground clamp. If I'm clamped to the table I will hit it instead.

Last edited by Jeep07; 09-28-2009 at 10:09 AM.
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Old 09-28-2009, 06:29 PM   #152 (permalink)
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I don't get it. It's a cheapo copper clamp, not rusty steel. All the crap on it is from me getting rid of excess stickout, so it kind of buildsup. Does kind of look like barnacles though. Is there any benefit to upgrading to a better one?
thought it was steel,my bad.
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Old 09-29-2009, 02:50 PM   #153 (permalink)
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those are very sweet!
Very nice!
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Old 09-30-2009, 10:00 PM   #154 (permalink)
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Heres my tube bender. It's made of 2x2 tube and 3/4" plate and a hf air ram. It uses jd2 model 3 dies and cost me about $150 plus dies of course!
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Old 10-01-2009, 01:51 PM   #155 (permalink)
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Spend the money and get a better ground clamp. I melted one of those, replaced it and havent had a problem since.
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Old 10-01-2009, 08:58 PM   #156 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 300sniper View Post
that turned out nice!
Thanks, I finally got a chance to use it for a project. It bent 1/4"x8" wide nicely.

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Brian,

What did you use for a bottom die?
what diameter are your vertical rods
any bushings inside the DOM for your sliders?

the design in my head is almost exactly like what you built...including the table and back-gauge.
2 pieces of 1" cold rolled round bar
3/4" guide rods
3/8" "drill rod" for the back guage
no bushings, there is a little slop so it doesnt bind and the springs are able to push it back up.
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Old 10-01-2009, 09:21 PM   #157 (permalink)
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Great tools guys!! Heres a shop air line dryer I made for my shop. I decided I needed an air dryer for my shop. I luv to build machines and tools so I thought why not build the air dryer I need. I thought about the action of removing moisture from air and decided that the best option was to condense the water out. Thought about using a little fridge to cool of a coil of air line and some how drain the water off the bottom of the coil with the help of gravity. I didnt like the idea of another appliance running sucking up power, I do enough of that with my oven. I then had the idea to use the fridge I was already running in my shop to cool our drinks, just had to make it so the fridge was still usable for this purpose. Heres what I came up with.

Ok, so this is an easy one I'm sure all of you can do. All that is needed is a refrigerator (this can be the one you currently put your beer in) and some piping or hose.

In the pics you see some pvc piping inside the fridge, this is cooled by the fridge. As the warm moist air enters the moister condenses in the cooled pipe. It is collect in the resivior at the bottom outside the fridge and the dry air goes to the shop. Simple as that.







If I had to do it over I would use metal for the piping for better efficiency. But as you can see from the last pic, it does work! The water you see was drain from the resivior after using the sandblaster for a couple hrs the first day the dryer was installed. I have been using this for a few months now, and have not had even a drop of water in my lines anywhere!!!! Even on the hottest most humid days, running the sandblaster nonstop. I have no complaints concerning the pvc.

As far as it being needed for the plasma, I now very rarely have any misfires and consumable life seems to have increased.





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Old 10-02-2009, 10:31 PM   #158 (permalink)
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http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn25/rigger777/CIMG0018.jpg

Heres my tube bender. It's made of 2x2 tube and 3/4" plate and a hf air ram. It uses jd2 model 3 dies and cost me about $150 plus dies of course!
Looks good! Do you have some more pictures of it and some measurements? Im in the process of building my own tube bend also
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Old 10-03-2009, 04:15 PM   #159 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JC-Jeeps View Post
Looks good! Do you have some more pictures of it and some measurements? Im in the process of building my own tube bend also

There is an entire (long) thread in this section with probably 50 or so of the same style benders built.
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Old 10-04-2009, 12:34 AM   #160 (permalink)
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Looks good! Do you have some more pictures of it and some measurements? Im in the process of building my own tube bend also
The base is 2' x 3'. The arms are 3/4" plate with 1" pins. It is 2 1/2" wide between arms, and handles 2" dom. If you want to see or know anything specific let me know.
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Old 10-04-2009, 10:31 AM   #161 (permalink)
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http://www.mediafire.com/file/tdzglyqkte2/ball turner prints .pdf
YouTube - Ball turner.wmv
https://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...649&highlight=

http://www.mediafire.com/file/w0gtjwm5nji/die holder prints.pdf

http://www.mediafire.com/file/zaxzyy1unqw/mill stop prints.pdf

http://www.mediafire.com/file/oxz1y2mojdz/mini ring roller prints.pdf

http://www.mediafire.com/file/zyiti2mzqly/press brake prints.pdf
YouTube - mini brake Movie.wmv
https://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...441&highlight=
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Last edited by Rob G; 10-04-2009 at 10:38 AM.
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Old 10-04-2009, 10:58 AM   #162 (permalink)
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6"x8"x3" angle plate machined and ground(not shown in pic).

Lathe radius cutter.
YouTube - TUBE DIE.wmv
https://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...444&highlight=

Ball peen hammers.

smaller one: brass head. Big one: aluminum bronze head.
Handles are aluminum and stainless.
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Old 10-04-2009, 11:22 AM   #163 (permalink)
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Tubing notcher:

https://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...123&highlight=



Torch circle cutter:



Large bearing puller:



Search my user name and you will find more.
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Old 10-04-2009, 12:16 PM   #164 (permalink)
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When I was working on my pinion brakes and needed a pinion flange to get the mounting of the rotor sorted out. Only problem was I don't have a 2-1/4" socket handy, the thirds are loose so no way to get them to hold still, and the nuts are stupid tight.

Basically the recipe here is.
A piece of 2-1/4" exhaust tube, 6 pieces of 1/4" flat stock 1-1/4" long, welder, and some scrap boxtube.
The pictures tell the rest, the second piece is to lock the pinion still so that I could pull the nut, and it bolts to the flange itself.







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Old 10-04-2009, 05:59 PM   #165 (permalink)
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ROB G............Thanks for sharing. Great stuff
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Old 01-01-2010, 01:28 PM   #166 (permalink)
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Here is my modded jack stands. They are harbor frieght 6-ton jack stands. I welded a 2"x4"xQuarter inch tube to the stand and used 1"xquarter inch flat bar for a brace. I drilled holes through the tube for safty pins.
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Old 01-01-2010, 06:24 PM   #167 (permalink)
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wearing gloves while your putting your hands on or near a turning piece of metal is very dangerous. don't wear gloves unless you want to get body slammed into the wall by your lathe. all it needs is a small string to grab a hold of and your going for a ride.
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Old 01-02-2010, 03:56 PM   #168 (permalink)
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wearing gloves while your putting your hands on or near a turning piece of metal is very dangerous. don't wear gloves unless you want to get body slammed into the wall by your lathe. all it needs is a small string to grab a hold of and your going for a ride.
I'll second that..........I was at a factory today talking with some guys in the maintenance shop that told me about 2 people that had their hands ripped off when their gloves got caught.
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Old 08-22-2010, 03:07 PM   #169 (permalink)
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i've used the vehicle press before too. we were breaking down an mrap tire and the runflat/beadlock (think humvee rim on steroids) wouldnt let the tire come off. we tried chaining the rim to one 7ton and the tire to another then doing a tug of war. we actually tore the rim where the chain passed though (1/4" grade 90) i ended up putting the tire on jackstands and using the 7 ton truck and a 20 ton bottle jack to press the rim out. other than that a humvee rear bumper (ambulance and up-armored models as well as 1152's) work well for bending small stuff like rebar, flat stock, 1/2" tubing, etc. for a sheet metal brake i use bed frame angle iron and a boat trailer with probably a 4" c channel frame. basically just put the sheet metal between the 2 and hammer the angle iron over the corner of the trailer frame. i also made a bead unintentionally this way doing my trans tunnel. my measurement was off so after i made the bend i had to flatten it out some and try again. that's just using 20 gauge though
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Old 08-22-2010, 05:19 PM   #170 (permalink)
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Here is my modded jack stands. They are harbor frieght 6-ton jack stands. I welded a 2"x4"xQuarter inch tube to the stand and used 1"xquarter inch flat bar for a brace. I drilled holes through the tube for safty pins.
now thats fucking scary!!
make the base wider.
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Old 08-22-2010, 05:25 PM   #171 (permalink)
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now thats fucking scary!!
make the base wider.
sat on those 3 months, suc it
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Old 08-22-2010, 05:43 PM   #172 (permalink)
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sat on those 3 months, suc it
all it takes is once man.
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Old 08-22-2010, 06:06 PM   #173 (permalink)
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i agree about those jack stands. i dont even trust them completely even at the stock height. at any rate i also made this to reach the bottom bolt on my ve injection pump. i was half tempted to get that new wrench craftsman came out with even though it's chinese. this is made in china too but was free and i dont plan on using it much. most people use a dog bone or s wrench but i have an air compressor instead of a vacuum pump.
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Old 08-22-2010, 06:50 PM   #174 (permalink)
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wearing gloves while your putting your hands on or near a turning piece of metal is very dangerous. don't wear gloves unless you want to get body slammed into the wall by your lathe. all it needs is a small string to grab a hold of and your going for a ride.
same reason I cringe when I see people wearing gloves when spooling their winch up
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:40 PM   #175 (permalink)
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Bushing drivers, bench block, near zero clearance slitting saw arbor, and a two sided quick change tool post (still in progress).
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