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Project: Zuburban

64K views 299 replies 44 participants last post by  WOODZUK 
#1 · (Edited)
In Honor of a fallen Soldier & Friend Art Lilley (aka:NCZUK)

This build is for him.....Thanks buddy for your friendship

- frame / body stretched 22"
- 1.6 16 valve in // modified harness
- tranny (Rock4x Tranny Crossmember)
- IFS rear toyota axle in the rear (spooled)
- 1982 front axle w/ 1.5" spacers (lockrite)
- Trail tough YJ missing links front and rear
- hybrid YJ 5-packs
- FJ60 P/S box
- Marlin Crawler steering arms
- 35 x 13.50 x 15 BFG Krawlers // 15x8 steel rims
- rear axle disk breaks / Monte Carlo calipers / Chevy rotors
- line lock
- proportioning valve for rear disk breaks
- TC style pump
- Spider Trax 1.6 TC pump bracket
- 2 1/4" exhaust from header to glass pack // 2" from glasspack to tip
- Dodge Neon seats
- Huculiner exterior / Second Skin bed liner interior http://www.secondskinaudio.com/products/diy-bedliner.php
- stretched CV style toyota d-shaft for front
- stretched regular "straight" toyota d-shaft for rear
- racing seats http://shophyperformance.com/cgi-bin/hp/cat/Racing_Seats/Cheap_Racing_Seats.html
-


thats all for right now. Me and Ben (aka:zukitough) are welding in the new panels I had made up for the sides and I also had a new top panel made up.

I will try to post up pics as soon as I can, I will be working like mad to get this rig done by Thursday.


Dave
 
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#4 ·
pics tomorrow of the new panels welded in ...... bed liner goes on tomorrow and the ORANGE PAINT !!

I have a problem though (off topic kinda)

I have tried using different wording, but for the life of me I cannot find anything on installing the 16 valve radiator in a Zuk.

I have tried the following:

- 1.6 radiator install
- 16 valve radiator install
- 1.6 16 valve radiator install
- radiator install

I think there are one or two more, but can someone post up some pics of fabbed brackets when installing a 16 valve radiator into a samauri?

I will have to do everything from scratch....I have no stock zuk brackets or 16 valve brackets. I took some 2x2 square tubing and cut (2) 2" pieces. drilled out 1 hole in each to match the 2 rubber gromets at the bottom of the radiator, but have no real idea on what to do for the side bracket for mounts.

Dave
 
#6 · (Edited)
I am going to install this thing becasue I don't have a stock zuk radiator. I guess I will take pics of the install and maybe this will help somoene else out in the future.

Deadline for this thing to be done is this Thursday.....so with that said I do have a donor tin top that I can only use the body from, but I could (in a pinch) use the radiator and brackets to get to the Zuwharrie and then just put them back <---thats if worst comes to worst and the donor is a from a friend of mine and he would not mind at all.
 
#7 · (Edited)
here is some pix of my work. oh yeah, thats David in the pix grinding, not me.
 

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#13 · (Edited)
Keep the pics coming. I am interested to see how this turns out.
 
#14 ·
geeesh it seems like I didn't accomplish anything today. I literally sanded the outer body to almost bare metal and primed // installed spidertrax upper rear shock mount // started installing front calipers.
 
#15 ·
I have a problem.

The PCS // TC style pump bracket I have isn't lining up right :mad3:

The bottom 3 triangulated holes line up, but the top portion of the bracket is interfering with the exhaust manifold and the package did not come with any instructons.

Has anyone installed the PCS // TC STYLE pump bracket on a 1.6 16 valve ??

if you have can you post some pics of how you installed it please.

I have searched with no luck.

David
 
#17 ·
yup demo you are right.

after satisfying the frustration I managed to figure it all out and the bracket is installed now. I got a looong nite tonight.

David
 
#18 ·
Well.....as my luck would have it. I am at work and I was supposed to not be in until tonight. I might not even be able to go to the Zu Event either. I will know by tonight.

I pick up the modified toyota drive shafts after work today.

this just sucks butt :shaking:
 
#19 ·
One thing about it though. I can take my time and not rush any part of the build. With that said....... I hope to have it running by Monday. That is if I have time off this weekend.

as stated earlier........ I have to see how the schedule for this weekend looks.

progress:

- had to cut and re-mount the rear t-case bracket on the long arm side and
also cut and relocate the short arm side. While doing that I re-inforced both
arms

- got the proportioning valve installed (not plumbed yet)

- installed the TC pump bracket

- got holes drilled in the plates that I am using for the FJ60 pump

- rig is primed and ready for paint

might get done today:

- plating the frame for the FJ box

- installing the line lock

- welding lower shock mount on rear axle
 
#20 ·
Progressing nicely........

- installed FJ60 P/S box
- fabbed up the steering shaft
- installed front calipers
- installed the TC style pump
- plumed up the passenger side caliper / up to the "T" fitting on front axle
- almost done with lower part of body work / had to cut and weld lower part

I want to try and get this thing rattle can painted today or at least the bed liner.

I will have pics prolly Wednesday.

Dave
 
#21 ·
Eye Doctor

Well after a long morning at the eye Doctor today (drilled out a piece of steel from my eye)

I managed to start putting the bed liner on. I got (driver side) - (hood) and (front grill area) done today b-4 I had to come in to work. I will post up some pics in the morning.

I done some searching about line lock (line routing) but wasn't able to find any info about it.

I was thinking about putting the (Manual Line Lock) on the tranny tunnel on the drivers side for easy access.....what do ya'll think?

Dave
 
#22 ·
I'm using the electric line lock it was as easy as plumbing it in after the master cylinder
I have a manual i plan on addind to the tranny tunnel so i can use it when my rig is off or the battery is dead (thinking it would be good on the trailer)
 
#24 · (Edited)
Thanks Man !!

I had a local metal fab shop do them on a metal break. This fella knows what he is doing thats for sure. He even put the tight roll in the molding instead of the sharp corners.

I was thinking about the line lock.........would it be better to just by-pass the break manifold (passenger Frame) all together and run the line straight to the rear axle?
 
#31 · (Edited)
Thanks and I will be running full stock doors, but plan to make some 1/2 doors for the summer. Also if I can't get my hands on another tin top rear door I plan on making a 1/2 rear door also. The plan for spring is to comp cut the rig with full internal cage and maybe a sliding canvas rag top.


Dave
 
#37 ·
Thanks Man !! I got tired of seeing it with no paint so I had a little time yesterday afternoon after me and babydoll got back from getting some hunting stands and got to painting.

I can't paint again till Wednesday so I will be yanking all of the old stock break lines out tonight.

Dave
 
#39 ·
yes, the steel in the eye bit, eh? I discovered the wonder the face shields at the local welding shop.
as to the brakes, seems like a manual would be reliable as long as it won't accidentally get bumped off.
according to my info(I forget where) the manifold is where the lines get crossed so that one circuit of the master cylinder operates opposite cornered wheels, and the other circuit the other wheels.
if you bypass this, then one circuit will operate the rear, and the other-the front.
 
#41 ·
Going to try and see if the local auto glass shop can get me some blacked out lexan for each side.

I plan on putting hinges at the top alsong with (2) small hydraulic arms for each window. At the bottom I need to figure out a latching system to keep the windows secure.
 
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