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Old 01-26-2020, 07:41 PM   #76 (permalink)
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72" wide

Still trying to some what fit on trails.
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Old 01-26-2020, 07:53 PM   #77 (permalink)
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72" wide

Still trying to some what fit on trails.
Yep, if I was any wider than 64" I would be fuckered on majority of trails I go on.
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Old 02-13-2020, 11:23 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Fwiw, honda refused my sub trans warranty at 150 miles because I have 32s on it

Luckily the dealer covered it. Still pisses me off that honda copped out with such low miles.

Also, I couldn't pick it up today because it developed a new issue on the test run. It was fine for about 30 mins, but started not shifting over 6k rpm. Dealer tried a few things, but was stumped.

I definitely can not recommend buying a talon to anyone. I'm to the point where I'm not even excited to get it back because I'm so afraid it's going to break and be in the shop for another month, while I cross my fingers that warranty will cover it.
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Old 02-14-2020, 03:24 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Fwiw, honda refused my sub trans warranty at 150 miles because I have 32s on it

Luckily the dealer covered it. Still pisses me off that honda copped out with such low miles.

Also, I couldn't pick it up today because it developed a new issue on the test run. It was fine for about 30 mins, but started not shifting over 6k rpm. Dealer tried a few things, but was stumped.

I definitely can not recommend buying a talon to anyone. I'm to the point where I'm not even excited to get it back because I'm so afraid it's going to break and be in the shop for another month, while I cross my fingers that warranty will cover it.
That sucks man. I was reading YT comments with Pioneer owners saying they had 5,000-10,000-25,000 miles on their machines with no issues.

The Talon is relatively new. Kinks will probably get worked out.
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:06 AM   #80 (permalink)
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That sucks man. I was reading YT comments with Pioneer owners saying they had 5,000-10,000-25,000 miles on their machines with no issues.

The Talon is relatively new. Kinks will probably get worked out.
There are some high mile talons out there also. Not sure if mine was started on the Friday before a 3 day weekend and finished up hung over on Tuesday or what.

Either way it's bullshit they refused the warranty for 32s, even the dealer was stumped.

Also, from everything I've seen on the honda sxs forums, most of these pioneer guys a dorks who just drive around on basically dirt roads. Yet they think whatever new part won't hold up to their riding style

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Old 02-14-2020, 07:58 PM   #81 (permalink)
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There are some high mile talons out there also. Not sure if mine was started on the Friday before a 3 day weekend and finished up hung over on Tuesday or what.

Either way it's bullshit they refused the warranty for 32s, even the dealer was stumped.

Also, from everything I've seen on the honda sxs forums, most of these pioneer guys a dorks who just drive around on basically dirt roads. Yet they think whatever new part won't hold up to their riding style
I believe it. We got some of them around here.
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Old 02-15-2020, 01:05 AM   #82 (permalink)
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Every time I post an update or a thread with a new issue. They all get bent out of shape, then say I'm butthurt so I should sell it to them for $5k. They crack themselves up like hyenas. I have thick skin, I just don't see the humor. There are a handful of guys who are actually pretty knowledgeable.

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Old 02-15-2020, 09:12 AM   #83 (permalink)
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Every time I post an update or a thread with a new issue. They all get bent out of shape, then say I'm butthurt so I should sell it to them for $5k. They crack themselves up like hyenas. I have thick skin, I just don't see the humor. There are a handful of guys who are actually pretty knowledgeable.


And now they deleted a bunch of threads I started with my issues because all their retarded poster boys can't handle honda failures. The mods excuse was that I started too many threads. I started a thread for each issue idiot, that way people can easily find them in a search.

And people wonder why forums are dying.
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Old 02-16-2020, 11:35 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Went and stayed with friends near Carson city, NV this weekend. Brought the talon and got a decent amount of use in in the desert. Man do they have an amazing area out here. Trails for days.

Also did some crawling at prison hill (similar to moon rocks) basically 24 grit sand paper rock formations. I've said before, but not I really believe it, I4WD SUCKS especially for crawling. Many time it will not give power to the wheel that has traction. Other times, you're crawling your line and then the 3 tires spin and before the other grabs, you fall off line.

Anyone who thinks I4wd works great, would be fine with an open diff, because they aren't actually wheelin.
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Old 02-17-2020, 06:33 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Welp, that sucks...... Insurance, gas and a match will make your headache go away.




I'm glad I decided to turn mine into a track toy and not try to turn it into a rock crawler like I had originally planned.


On another note..... I got my racing seat and PRP harness in the other day. After a little trimming of the plastic under the factory seat, it looks like I'll he able to lower my ass about 5". That should really help handling! 😎

Still debating on where to buy my cage tubing. If I buy 8ft lengths of what I need it's almost cheaper to order it online. I'm traveling for work all week so nothing is going to get done any time soon.
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Old 02-17-2020, 06:43 PM   #86 (permalink)
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BTW..... Has anyone looked at the LOORRS UTV class rules regarding cages??? They suggest the rollcage of a UTV to be made out of 1-3/4" x .120 wall tube. 1-1/2" x .120 wall is their minimum. Are they fawkin high??? Race ready your looking at something that weights 1600-1700lbs max. Nascar cup cars are built with 1-3/4" .095 tube that is sanded down to .090 to meet minimum specs and save weight. Those cars go 200mph and weigh 3250 race ready. I dont get it at all.

I'm using 1-3/4" x .095 for the main structure, .083 for the belt line and .063 for X bracing and I think even that is slightly excessive. Luckily the tracks/series I plan to race does not use LOORRS cage rules, so I'm good to go with my current plan.
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Old 02-17-2020, 06:56 PM   #87 (permalink)
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BTW..... Has anyone looked at the LOORRS UTV class rules regarding cages??? They suggest the rollcage of a UTV to be made out of 1-3/4" x .120 wall tube. 1-1/2" x .120 wall is their minimum. Are they fawkin high??? Race ready your looking at something that weights 1600-1700lbs max. Nascar cup cars are built with 1-3/4" .095 tube that is sanded down to .090 to meet minimum specs and save weight. Those cars go 200mph and weigh 3250 race ready. I dont get it at all.

I'm using 1-3/4" x .095 for the main structure, .083 for the belt line and .063 for X bracing and I think even that is slightly excessive. Luckily the tracks/series I plan to race does not use LOORRS cage rules, so I'm good to go with my current plan.
When I trashed my rzr, I did a hell of a number on the aftermarket .095" wall 1.75" DOM cage. The crossbar at the A-pillar actually ruptured--twisted half in two. The ready-made aftermarket cages on these aren't designed like Nascar--not nearly as reinforced, and some stuff is flat dumb. For instance, the B-pillar with a bend designed in it. Or the simple fact that they provide zero side coverage--the side of your head is nearly flush with the side of the cage.

My replacement one was .120" wall Cro-moly. Ridiculous, I know, but I couldn't readily find a 2" one, and I wasn't going to buy all the stuff to do it myself.

Last edited by OHV Wildcat; 02-17-2020 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 02-17-2020, 07:08 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Welp, that sucks...... Insurance, gas and a match will make your headache go away.




I'm glad I decided to turn mine into a track toy and not try to turn it into a rock crawler like I had originally planned.


On another note..... I got my racing seat and PRP harness in the other day. After a little trimming of the plastic under the factory seat, it looks like I'll he able to lower my ass about 5". That should really help handling! 😎

Still debating on where to buy my cage tubing. If I buy 8ft lengths of what I need it's almost cheaper to order it online. I'm traveling for work all week so nothing is going to get done any time soon.
Ya, I don't know, I had fun in the desert. I think I'm just bitter about this thing.

They really do need to issue a recall for the shift gate, I have no doubt there will be a ton of issue once these things get more popular.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SLOWPOKE693 View Post
BTW..... Has anyone looked at the LOORRS UTV class rules regarding cages??? They suggest the rollcage of a UTV to be made out of 1-3/4" x .120 wall tube. 1-1/2" x .120 wall is their minimum. Are they fawkin high??? Race ready your looking at something that weights 1600-1700lbs max. Nascar cup cars are built with 1-3/4" .095 tube that is sanded down to .090 to meet minimum specs and save weight. Those cars go 200mph and weigh 3250 race ready. I dont get it at all.

I'm using 1-3/4" x .095 for the main structure, .083 for the belt line and .063 for X bracing and I think even that is slightly excessive. Luckily the tracks/series I plan to race does not use LOORRS cage rules, so I'm good to go with my current plan.
Nascar uses a crazy amount of braces and is no doubt designed on a computer. For how open these cages are a little extra beef is probably OK.

Fwiw, the stock cage is 2"
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Old 02-17-2020, 08:01 PM   #89 (permalink)
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When I trashed my rzr, I did a hell of a number on the aftermarket .095" wall 1.75" DOM cage. The crossbar at the A-pillar actually ruptured--twisted half in two. The ready-made aftermarket cages on these aren't designed like Nascar--not nearly as reinforced, and some stuff is flat dumb. For instance, the B-pillar with a bend designed in it. Or the simple fact that they provide zero side coverage--the side of your head is nearly flush with the side of the cage.

My replacement one was .120" wall Cro-moly. Ridiculous, I know, but I couldn't readily find a 2" one, and I wasn't going to buy all the stuff to do it myself.


I dont plan on building any sort of bolt on cage for it. I grew up racing & working in a circle track chassis shop. I completely understand what is safe as far as cages/chassis designs go, and these SxS's are NOT safe stock. I plan to make mine very safe before I go full send at the MX track. I'm retarded, but not stupid.

I'm cutting the A & B pillar bungs completely off the chassis side and inserting the new tube inside that. It will be plug welded and welded at the cut off joint. Factory 1-3/8" tubes running above the engine towards the rear bumper are getting cut out and replaced with 1-3/4" x .095 supported with 1-3/8" .095. C pillar bars will tie into that as well as the rear suspension/diff bulkhead. I'm going to install a "beltline" bar running from A to B pillar and then X below that to the chassis rails. Doors will not open anymore when I'm done. I'll be climbing in through the window like a proper racecar. It's getting properly mounted SFI window nets also. Seat will be mounted to the cage in 5 spots including the back. /\ bars at the center of the windshield are going to be tied into the factory dash bar mounted below the cowl. From there they will meet up with the front bulkhead. Roof and behind the seat will get an X brace. There is more but I'm sick of typing.

Last edited by SLOWPOKE693; 02-17-2020 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 02-18-2020, 04:03 AM   #90 (permalink)
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I dont plan on building any sort of bolt on cage for it. I grew up racing & working in a circle track chassis shop. I completely understand what is safe as far as cages/chassis designs go, and these SxS's are NOT safe stock. I plan to make mine very safe before I go full send at the MX track. I'm retarded, but not stupid.

I'm cutting the A & B pillar bungs completely off the chassis side and inserting the new tube inside that. It will be plug welded and welded at the cut off joint. Factory 1-3/8" tubes running above the engine towards the rear bumper are getting cut out and replaced with 1-3/4" x .095 supported with 1-3/8" .095. C pillar bars will tie into that as well as the rear suspension/diff bulkhead. I'm going to install a "beltline" bar running from A to B pillar and then X below that to the chassis rails. Doors will not open anymore when I'm done. I'll be climbing in through the window like a proper racecar. It's getting properly mounted SFI window nets also. Seat will be mounted to the cage in 5 spots including the back. /\ bars at the center of the windshield are going to be tied into the factory dash bar mounted below the cowl. From there they will meet up with the front bulkhead. Roof and behind the seat will get an X brace. There is more but I'm sick of typing.
Man, I have no prior race experience, no experience building or designing cages, but I do know how to build structures and dabble in some furniture, and from day one looking at these SXS's I said to myself, "Those stock cages are NOT safe." If anyone hops into a SXS thinking they got a race ready cage that will keep them alive at high speed roll overs, they're nuts. Obviously those people exist as you can see plenty of videos on YouTube.

Last edited by FleshEater; 02-18-2020 at 04:04 AM.
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Old 02-18-2020, 07:55 AM   #91 (permalink)
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I dont plan on building any sort of bolt on cage for it. I grew up racing & working in a circle track chassis shop. I completely understand what is safe as far as cages/chassis designs go, and these SxS's are NOT safe stock. I plan to make mine very safe before I go full send at the MX track. I'm retarded, but not stupid.

I'm cutting the A & B pillar bungs completely off the chassis side and inserting the new tube inside that. It will be plug welded and welded at the cut off joint. Factory 1-3/8" tubes running above the engine towards the rear bumper are getting cut out and replaced with 1-3/4" x .095 supported with 1-3/8" .095. C pillar bars will tie into that as well as the rear suspension/diff bulkhead. I'm going to install a "beltline" bar running from A to B pillar and then X below that to the chassis rails. Doors will not open anymore when I'm done. I'll be climbing in through the window like a proper racecar. It's getting properly mounted SFI window nets also. Seat will be mounted to the cage in 5 spots including the back. /\ bars at the center of the windshield are going to be tied into the factory dash bar mounted below the cowl. From there they will meet up with the front bulkhead. Roof and behind the seat will get an X brace. There is more but I'm sick of typing.
Good deal, sounds great. I'm assuming the race rules are built around people that do a bolt-on cage upgrade. So that's why I was guessing that they're putting a high dimensional spec on it--because they expect it to be under-designed.
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