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Honda Talon 1000R........ Talk me out of buying one

35K views 105 replies 12 participants last post by  SLOWPOKE693 
#1 · (Edited)
I think I want one. The JKUR I built for my wife is fun to wheel, but if I drive it like I want to, I'll probably break it in half. It's a great family camping/exploration rig, but it's no U4. :laughing: I have zero time to build a buggy and hate buying used stuff that needs a pile of work before its reliable. So I'm at a crossroads.......

Local dealer has a few 2019 2 seater leftovers they are willing to part with at what I consider a reasonable price. I have a low milage/hours 2016 KTM 350 EXC-F with both a dirt and supermoto wheel setup I'm thinking about trading in. I have used the bike 1 time in the last year, so I'm thinking it time for it to go.

Plan would to be leave the Talon mostly stock, add 30-31" tires, beadlock wheels and possibly build a real cage for it. Would be used at the local offroad parks like Hot Springs, Barnwell Mtn, Disney ect. May also attempt to enter it in local SxS races once I own it for a while. The racing itch came back a few years ago and I have been ignoring it hoping that it would go away. Most of you know how that goes.... A stock class SxS seems like a reasonable way to get back into racing.

Am I crazy?
 
#2 ·
Just bought a 4 seater for most of the same reasons.

I say do it, but mines in the shop with a list of problems at ~150 miles, so I'm not sure how I feel about the purchase yet.

If I could have got a 2 seater, I would have taken a much harder look at the textron xx. Especially if you are thinking about racing.
 
#3 ·
Your sort of the reason for this thread. Looked like you were having to much fun...... :flipoff2:


What problems is yours in the shop for?


That Textron XX is fugly. No matter how bad ass it might be, I would not be caught dead in it. :barf:

The only reason I'm even considering a SxS is the price of this particular one and the fact that it's a Honda. If I were to go all in on a SxS purchase it would be a Can-Am X3. I'm not looking to spend $28k but at $17k I'm very intrested in one.

I was also thinking 30-31" tires. Not sure where I came up with 33's.
 
#4 ·
You're welcome :flipoff2:

The biggest issue is that it had issues grinding in low, which I believe may have damaged something, because now it will engage fine, but has popped out a few times. (it's a problem with the shift gate design imo)

The "I4wd" isn't working correctly (sounds like it may just be a loose connection or bad switch/sensor)

Rear diff has a leak (pretty lame, but shit happens)

Textron isn't my favorite looking, but they had them at the dealer I got my Talon and they do look better in person. I think some fender trimming and a bumper would make a huge difference.

130 hp na Yamaha 3 cyl, basically scaled down class 1 buggy suspension, race legal cage stock, ect.

I thought I liked the x3s also, but the more I looked into them, I'm not so sure. The biggest thing is they are massive, the 2 seater is only 10" shorter wb than my 4 seat talon. The 4 seater is just dumb at 135" :barf:
 
#5 ·
I have said it a few times, switching from a decent built Jeep (CJ5 locked on 38s), to a sxs (800 Rzrs) was one of the best decisions we made. It was easier to transport, easier to drive (wife Loved driving the rzr), less breakage and overall just more fun. It would do about 70-80% of what the Jeep could do, but it would do it better and faster. :smokin:

I never got a chance to take it to barnwell, but I think it would give that place hell. I know it would struggle a bit there too. :eek: My buddy has taken his wildcat to Disney a few times and loves it. It’s just so much easier to deal with than a full size rig. If ours wasn’t stolen, I would still be trashing on it or even upgraded by now.
 
#6 ·
The down side is, anyone not in a side by side will hate you, even your friends and everyone here. :(
 
#15 ·
None of them are really out of the question, although I have no use for a CVT transmission and want low range. I chose the Honda for a few different reasons, price and Honda quality being the biggest factors. I can get a leftover 19 at the local dealer for $16,900 plus tax. Everything else in that category, that is localish $20,000 and up. I'm going to put wheels/tires and a winch on whatever I buy, so I may as well start with the more affordable option and go from there.
 
#18 ·
I stopped at a Honda dealer in Dallas today to look at one in person and sit in it. They had 2 leftover 2019's on the floor. Both internet priced at 18,699. Both had extras on them & sales guy said that added to the price listed........ huh? Doesnt say or show that shit in the ad. Another local dealer (that's not open today) has 2 of them advertised for 16,999.

First one had an aluminum HRC front bumper & HRC full metal doors. Second one had a HRC metal front bumper, HRC winch and some gay ass lightbar on the roof. I told the sales guy I'd pay the 18,699 if they throw the winch on the one with the full doors & aluminum bumper. I'm going to send them pics of my bike when I get home and see what #'s they come up with.
 
#20 ·
Lightbars are really nice. These sit fairly low and the lights get covered in mud, dust, and are pretty much useless night riding if you ride in a group.

They've designed lower gearing for the YXZ, hence why I mentioned it. But, we can get those here for about $15,500+tax. My Yamaha Wolverine replaced a Honda Rancher that I trail rode. Never expected to get into hard trail riding, and I liked the driveshaft and shifting, but putting the machine in low or high and going is nice for when you just want to ride carefree. Plus, the Wolverine was only $13,300+tax, so that was a no brainer...and it has a locked rear axle AND diff lock.

Shifting a YXZ does look like fun, though. Seen a few run KOH, too. Those Honda Talons look good, but I'm not sold on Honda SXS's yet. Feel like they have some stuff to work out.
 
#36 ·
In Texas we have PLENTY of room to turn. Not many pesky trees or hills to maneuver around, so I should be good. :laughing:

2 seat X has less suspension travel and a shorter WB if I read the brochure correctly. That would be ok if I lived back in New England, but out here there is lots of desert, and I wanna go fast!
 
#38 ·
I've been playing dealer games all day. So far the best out the door price is $18,109. Funny how they all tell you $20k out the door with freight, assembly, tax, title ect until you laugh and hang up on them. Both times I've done that today I've gotten callbacks in less than an hour with WAAAAAY better numbers. Funny how that works.....

Took the low quote of the day and emailed it to another local dealer I stopped at yesterday, and told them that if they sold me the one they had on the floor with Honda Racing doors, aluminum front bumper, roof and rocker guards for $19k out the door, I'd drive to their store tomorrow instead of buying one from their competitor. Hopefully I'll get a positive response to that in the morning. :grinpimp:

If all goes well I should be sitting in one of these by end of week. :smokin:




Btw..... YotaAtieToo, this is all your fucking fault, thanks! :flipoff2:
 
#43 · (Edited)
The deed is done. :grinpimp:

Bought a 2019 Talon 1000R with Honda Racing full steel doors, aluminum bumpers, nerf bars and roof for $20k out the door.

I pissed off every dealer within a 100mi radius of me yesterday playing them all like a fiddle. When I walked into the dealer this afternoon the owner asked me; "Do you think we dont talk to each other? You cant be telling other dealers fake prices I never quoted you on and vise versa to get what you want." I said, That's funny, I'm here buying exactly what I want at the price I wanted to pay. Seems like it worked just fine. Who's the fool now? :lmao:

Picking it up tomorrow after work. I cant wait to take it for a spin!! :bounce2:
 
#45 ·
Well I hope it works out for you better than me. I just talked to the dealer and they are still stumped on just the first issue with the i4wd/hill start, they haven't even touched the popping out of low issue. They've had it a week. They've had it 2 times before that. I bought it on the 28th or so. I feel like they've had it almost as much as me. I even started researching atv lemon laws.

All my buddies in their Polaris' have been out ridding.
 
#51 ·
Yes :flipoff2:

If you look at any given suv (xj, 4runner, ect) the rear passengers are sitting over the rear axle. The sport sxs's are down lower.

Also, I think they are trying to keep as much as possible the same, basically just add in a row of seats to the middle. I'm sure they could shorten the wb a little bit on the 4 seat, but the shock is pretty close to the rear firewall, so you'd need a longer shock, different trailing arm, ect.
 
#59 · (Edited)


Maybe this will help. Stock 28s look so funny. :laughing:

Weight bias might be the biggest issue. I've heard they are already rear heavy, with no cargo. Take 17" out and add cargo, it probably wouldn't steer.

Also, the rear diff can't be shoved forward anymore.

Like I said, nothing against the wolverine, but it's apples to oranges. It's like saying that they make a mid size suv with a 100" wheel base, why can't they make a 4 door sports car with a 100" wb.
 
#66 ·
It's been a busy week. First chance I had to drive it was yesterday. Broke it in according to the manual and then started "testing" it in the 50 acre field behind my shop. No leaky diffs, no grinding or popping out of gear and the "locker" in mine works like it should. Its dumb, but works.

I'm impressed. This is the first vehicle I have ever owned that I can drive like I want to and not break it in half! By mid afternoon yesterday I was full throttle, 70mph assaulting the terrain in that field thinking I was Robby Gordon. :smokin:

My only complaint is the rear suspension. It loads up off jumps and tries to toss the ass end over the front. :eek: NOT COOL! I messed with the ride height and rate stops and got it slightly better, but it's still not the way I want it. The top springs on the rear shocks are short little fuckers and need to be swapped out for longer ones. Shock Therapy has a new spring kit for the F&R that eliminates this problem. After 5pt harness, that's going to be my next mod.

I'm happy with my purchase. :D
 
#78 ·
Fwiw, honda refused my sub trans warranty at 150 miles because I have 32s on it :rolleyes:

Luckily the dealer covered it. Still pisses me off that honda copped out with such low miles.

Also, I couldn't pick it up today because it developed a new issue on the test run. It was fine for about 30 mins, but started not shifting over 6k rpm. Dealer tried a few things, but was stumped.

I definitely can not recommend buying a talon to anyone. I'm to the point where I'm not even excited to get it back because I'm so afraid it's going to break and be in the shop for another month, while I cross my fingers that warranty will cover it.
 
#83 ·
:laughing:

And now they deleted a bunch of threads I started with my issues because all their retarded poster boys can't handle honda failures. The mods excuse was that I started too many threads. I started a thread for each issue idiot, that way people can easily find them in a search.

And people wonder why forums are dying. :rolleyes:
 
#84 ·
Went and stayed with friends near Carson city, NV this weekend. Brought the talon and got a decent amount of use in in the desert. Man do they have an amazing area out here. Trails for days.

Also did some crawling at prison hill (similar to moon rocks) basically 24 grit sand paper rock formations. I've said before, but not I really believe it, I4WD SUCKS especially for crawling. Many time it will not give power to the wheel that has traction. Other times, you're crawling your line and then the 3 tires spin and before the other grabs, you fall off line.

Anyone who thinks I4wd works great, would be fine with an open diff, because they aren't actually wheelin.
 
#85 ·
Welp, that sucks...... Insurance, gas and a match will make your headache go away. :laughing:




I'm glad I decided to turn mine into a track toy and not try to turn it into a rock crawler like I had originally planned.


On another note..... I got my racing seat and PRP harness in the other day. After a little trimming of the plastic under the factory seat, it looks like I'll he able to lower my ass about 5". That should really help handling! 😎

Still debating on where to buy my cage tubing. If I buy 8ft lengths of what I need it's almost cheaper to order it online. I'm traveling for work all week so nothing is going to get done any time soon.
 
#88 ·
Ya, I don't know, I had fun in the desert. I think I'm just bitter about this thing.

They really do need to issue a recall for the shift gate, I have no doubt there will be a ton of issue once these things get more popular.

BTW..... Has anyone looked at the LOORRS UTV class rules regarding cages??? They suggest the rollcage of a UTV to be made out of 1-3/4" x .120 wall tube. 1-1/2" x .120 wall is their minimum. :eek: Are they fawkin high??? Race ready your looking at something that weights 1600-1700lbs max. Nascar cup cars are built with 1-3/4" .095 tube that is sanded down to .090 to meet minimum specs and save weight. Those cars go 200mph and weigh 3250 race ready. I dont get it at all.

I'm using 1-3/4" x .095 for the main structure, .083 for the belt line and .063 for X bracing and I think even that is slightly excessive. Luckily the tracks/series I plan to race does not use LOORRS cage rules, so I'm good to go with my current plan. :smokin:
Nascar uses a crazy amount of braces and is no doubt designed on a computer. For how open these cages are a little extra beef is probably OK.

Fwiw, the stock cage is 2"
 
#86 ·
BTW..... Has anyone looked at the LOORRS UTV class rules regarding cages??? They suggest the rollcage of a UTV to be made out of 1-3/4" x .120 wall tube. 1-1/2" x .120 wall is their minimum. :eek: Are they fawkin high??? Race ready your looking at something that weights 1600-1700lbs max. Nascar cup cars are built with 1-3/4" .095 tube that is sanded down to .090 to meet minimum specs and save weight. Those cars go 200mph and weigh 3250 race ready. I dont get it at all.

I'm using 1-3/4" x .095 for the main structure, .083 for the belt line and .063 for X bracing and I think even that is slightly excessive. Luckily the tracks/series I plan to race does not use LOORRS cage rules, so I'm good to go with my current plan. :smokin:
 
#87 · (Edited)
When I trashed my rzr, I did a hell of a number on the aftermarket .095" wall 1.75" DOM cage. The crossbar at the A-pillar actually ruptured--twisted half in two. The ready-made aftermarket cages on these aren't designed like Nascar--not nearly as reinforced, and some stuff is flat dumb. For instance, the B-pillar with a bend designed in it. Or the simple fact that they provide zero side coverage--the side of your head is nearly flush with the side of the cage.

My replacement one was .120" wall Cro-moly. Ridiculous, I know, but I couldn't readily find a 2" one, and I wasn't going to buy all the stuff to do it myself.
 
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