Anyone use these weld on beadlocks? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 11-29-2016, 11:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Anyone use these weld on beadlocks?

Beadlock Kit for 15 Inch Wheel

Stumbled across these the other day. I figured it would be great for the snow, light and cheap considering it comes with hardware.
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Old 11-30-2016, 08:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Did you notice material thickness was .1875? Too thin for me... I have not used any rings that thin, but that's my opinion.
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Old 11-30-2016, 08:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Same answer that I got when I asked about using the light weight dirt track beadlocks. Cheap and light, but probably not strong enough.
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Old 11-30-2016, 08:34 AM   #4 (permalink)
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So 1/4" is strong enough to get abused in the rocks, but 3/16 isn't strong enough for the snow?

While I was searching, I actually found that some popular diy beadlocks are 3/16 standard and you pay extra for 1/4.

They don't seem to much different from the old school Eaton or Bart bead locks.
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Old 11-30-2016, 09:03 AM   #5 (permalink)
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These were the ones that I was asking about, but they don't seem to have 6 lug

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/aeo-53-184530
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Old 11-30-2016, 03:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo View Post
Beadlock Kit for 15 Inch Wheel

Stumbled across these the other day. I figured it would be great for the snow, light and cheap considering it comes with hardware.
I bought a set for some 15x12 steel wheels I have. $300 for snow wheels is a lot better than the cheapest beadlock option (almost $1200 ) I think they will be just find in the snow.
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Old 11-30-2016, 06:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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These were the ones that I was asking about, but they don't seem to have 6 lug

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/aeo-53-184530
I can see those not holding up because of how thin the centers and shell look.
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Circle track wheels take a decent beating... Especially the right rear on a dirt modified...
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:37 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Circle track wheels take a decent beating... Especially the right rear on a dirt modified...
Right, kinda like 10 bolts will hold 1000hp on a drag car.
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Old 12-02-2016, 05:39 AM   #10 (permalink)
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The only this I'm worried about with the speed way beadlock kit is the bead on the rockers being too big and not getting the tire to seal. I'm ASSUMING car racing tires are light and therefore have skinnier/thinner beads...
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Old 12-02-2016, 05:49 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 86chevyjoe View Post
The only this I'm worried about with the speed way beadlock kit is the bead on the rockers being too big and not getting the tire to seal. I'm ASSUMING car racing tires are light and therefore have skinnier/thinner beads...
Yes. Assumption correct.
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Old 12-02-2016, 09:19 AM   #12 (permalink)
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@hadfield4wd ran a set on his XJ for a few years. He upgraded them to grade 8 bolts, but never had any issues, that i recall.

The Allied beadlocks look to be about the same, and many folks run them. One guy here bent the crap out of his Allied ring in the rocks. We had to hammer it back flat for the tire to seal up.
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Old 12-02-2016, 11:07 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Wow blast from the past there.

Yes I used them on my old rig.

Here is a write up I did in 2011.

Well I have needed beadlocks for a long time. Just about every trip I lose a bead or bend a rim or both. I have had an extra set of rims around the house in order to get a weld-on kit. However I have a problem with the weld-on kits. They all are very heavy. Anywhere from 20-28 lbs. Added to a rim and youíre talking about a close to 40lb rim. I already break shafts so that much added rotational mass would only add to the situation.

So I have spent a lot of time looking into the different options. I thought about going to aluminum rims and internal beadlocks like the Inner Air locks. But I felt Iíd need a strengthening ring to weld to the outer lip so I didnít break a rim. That is when I stumbled on Aero Race Wheels (http://www.aeroracewheels.com).

They build wheels for dirt track cars. They only come in 15Ē. They have a DIY kit that is relatively inexpensive and is very light comparatively. The DIY kit they sell is only 7.2lbs with hardware, which is amazing. Also because the outer ring has a shape to it, you donít need to worry about coning or centering the tire. Also if you want to go even lighter they have an aluminum outer ring that will save you another 1.5lbs. Anyway here is a chart that I did to compare the weights.



You can see that buy going aluminum I wouldnít save any weight. I weighed my rims after I welded the beadlocks with the hardware and they are right at 28lbs. Now keep in mind there is a lot of variation in rim weights. The unbeadlocked steelies I took off were considerably heavier than what I started with. They weighed in at 26lbs. So I had a net gain of 2.5lbs per wheel. Iím pretty happy with this.

Ok back to Aero. I was very pleased with the quality. The inner ring holes all had nutserts installed so no need to use a box wrench on a nut on the back side when torqueing down the bolts.



One thing I was surprised by was that the inner ring only had 16 nutserts and holes and the outer ring had 32 holes. If I had read their webpage better I would have seen this. The other thing I was surprised about was that the bolts were 5/16ís and not 3/8ís like most other manufacturers recommend. In addition the bolts were just case hardened and not grade 8. So I went to the local Fastenal and bought 64, grade 8 5/16ís flange bolts. I spoke with tech support at Aero and they donít think the number or size of the bolts will make a huge difference for my application. The bolt heads are protected from rocks by the ring and they use this setup on 800hp sprint cars. They did suggest checking the torque regularly as most of their users change tires every week. Only time would tell.

The powder coating on the outer rings is very good. These are 1/8Ē but with the pressed outer, that adds a lot of strength over a flat piece of steel like most DIY kits. There is also a mounting flange for a mud cover that Iím not using and was tempted to cut off. Maybe Iíll do that at a later date. In addition all my valve stems had to be relocated. With the beadlocks on they pointed directly at the inner ring. It would make it virtually impossible to fill with air. So I used a solid rod to fill the gap and welded the holes closed. Then I redrilled holes out of the way.

The welding was pretty easy. I took my time and prepped everything well. Ground the rim and the inner ring then wiped them down with acetone. Due to the fact that these are not ľĒ thick they sit further down in the rim than other DIY kits so I tacked them in then very carefully cut 3/16Ē off of the rim. This way the weld surface was flush. Here are the pictures completed and mounted on the Jeep.









If youíre interested in Aero Race Wheels they donít sell directly you have to go through a vender.

Also on a side note they have complete beadlock rims in 5 x 4.5 and 5 x 5. The 2 most popular Jeep bolt patterns. They have various backspacing and colors. They are also really light at 23lbs each.

The current owner is still using these with 38's now. Taking a beating


CLIFF NOTES***

I used them
Changed hardware to grade 8
Were light
Took a beating
Still on rig today with new owner.
I'd use them again.
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Old 12-02-2016, 11:59 AM   #14 (permalink)
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That's for the info. By the looks of the rig, you weren't using them exclusively in snow?

I think you made a good choice going grade 8. My current wheels used 18 5/16" bolts, I grabbed a bag of grade 5 bolt from my work for cheap. After a few months I started breaking a lot of bolts. Didn't seem to be related to what or how I was driving, I'd just randomly noticed broken bolts.

I figured if I was going to replace them all I mine as well step up to 3/8". No issues since with grade 8 3/8".
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Old 12-02-2016, 12:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I agree the lighter ring would have its benefits all around, especially in the snow. I use my 36" bias irocs and 1/4" rings year round rocks and snow. I was just up in the snow and there were a lot of logs and rocks that I was hitting just under the snow. I like the piece of mind I get for the heavy duty rings...1 ring to rule them all...
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Old 12-02-2016, 03:39 PM   #16 (permalink)
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That's for the info. By the looks of the rig, you weren't using them exclusively in snow?

I think you made a good choice going grade 8. My current wheels used 18 5/16" bolts, I grabbed a bag of grade 5 bolt from my work for cheap. After a few months I started breaking a lot of bolts. Didn't seem to be related to what or how I was driving, I'd just randomly noticed broken bolts.

I figured if I was going to replace them all I mine as well step up to 3/8". No issues since with grade 8 3/8".


Never used in snow. Only on rocks and some local grass roots rock racing.
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Old 02-09-2019, 10:53 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Forgot I even started this thread....

I bought a set of these for a little sidekick project. I plan on adding them to some stock samurai wheels and mounting 32" utv tires on them. They are definitely light weight. The inner ring looks to 1/8x1 1/4 flat bar rolled in a circle. The one thing I'm not to stoked on is that there is damn near 1/2" gap between the outside of the ring and the lip of the wheel. No way I'm going to fill that with weld on these thin wheels and rings. Not sure exactly what I'm going to do yet.
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Old 02-09-2019, 10:59 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I ran the Bart speedway weld ons. They held up decent for quite a few years. I mangled one pretty bad, ripped a hole in the tire. Beat the ring with a hammer and got it to seal.

Would I run them again for a budget beater? Yes.
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Old 02-09-2019, 11:29 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Did you have a huge gap between the outside of the ring and the lip of the wheel?
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Old 02-10-2019, 12:00 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Did you have a huge gap between the outside of the ring and the lip of the wheel?
About a 1/4Ē or so yes.

I used small nuts in 4 spots around the ring to help center it.
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Old 02-10-2019, 09:52 AM   #21 (permalink)
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About a 1/4Ē or so yes.

I used small nuts in 4 spots around the ring to help center it.
Other weld on beadlocks I've done/seen had 3/16-1/4" gap which works pretty good for a weld on the thicker material. I have about 1/2" and a much thinner wheel and ring.......

Using some nuts to center the ring is a good idea. I am contemplating doing that, tacking the rings on and then trimming the lip of the wheel off. Manufactured beadlocks are similar and much easier to mount and dismount the tire. My last weld on beadlocks were a giant pain to dismount, I always ended up taking them to the tire shop and even then was worried about ripping the beads.
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Old 03-17-2019, 10:59 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Well I welded up all 4 and mounted the tires.

Tacked rings



Cut off lip



Welded every other span, then grind a bevel about 1" into the ends of the weld.



You over lap the welds to help it seal. That way you are nice and hot by the time you get to the end of the last weld. If you try to start in the same spot, it will leak, every time.

I'm sure some people are wondering why in the fuck I cut the lip off the wheel. Well for one, there was a huge gap that I felt would have been too much to fill. 2nd, I always hated how hard my last weld on beadlocks were to mount and dismount compared to a manufactured beadlock. I've noticed that manufactured beadlocks have a smaller OD on the outer lip, it doesn't need to be the full OD since it's bolted in place. I'm confident I won't have any problems, but we will see.

Looking like something finally



Tires were easy to mount just like a manufactured beadlock. Over all these kits are very light duty. I think they will work great on this little rig, but personally I wouldn't run the on a normal crawler in the rocks.
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