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Old 02-15-2013, 06:16 PM   #26 (permalink)
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You should take some overall pictures of his rig. Turned out awesome. Gotta love when a 1.3L is at the top of backdoor with no winch.
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:28 PM   #27 (permalink)
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You should take some overall pictures of his rig. Turned out awesome. Gotta love when a 1.3L is at the top of backdoor with no winch.
Yep completely stock 1.3 other than propane. Yeh I really need to get some pics of it. When I wheel I tend not to stop to take them. Mist of the time I even forget to turn on my GoPro.
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:36 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Yeah i hear you on that. Im guilty of that myself. This rig deserves the attention though. How do you like 110 on the 37s? Do you have belly issues? im setting the wb on mt new rig now, and have been kicking around what to make the wb. I'll be on 37s for awhile, but wanna jump to 39s eventually.
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:10 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Yeah i hear you on that. Im guilty of that myself. This rig deserves the attention though. How do you like 110 on the 37s? Do you have belly issues? im setting the wb on mt new rig now, and have been kicking around what to make the wb. I'll be on 37s for awhile, but wanna jump to 39s eventually.
I really like being at 110, but with all the steering angle Toyota asked have it really helps having a rear disconnect in the tight stuff. I hit the belly every now and then, but tend to hit the rear lower links more. With the rig being real light belly dragging really isn't too big of an issue. For the extreme break overs I cone across once in a while I may have to really give the rig hell and play with the front and rear winches. Overall I wouldn't change anything. Now I just need to get some good seat time in the rig to see what it will really do.
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:21 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I'll be close to, if not 110. Better take a copilot with to take pictures! Once again, good looking rig.
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:34 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I'll be close to, if not 110. Better take a copilot with to take pictures! Once again, good looking rig.
Thanks
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:55 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Put the rig on some corner scales Saturday.
rig is 2888 no driver
49.7% driver 1434
50.3% passenger 1455
56.7% front 1639
43.3% rear 1250


3083 with me
51% driver 1599
49% passenger 1483
56.1% front 1730
43.9% rear 1352

Then took my son out to play for a few hours at Hollister.















Lifetime LED 13.5" spot beam mounted on the front. The table is about 60 feet


Lifetime LED 41.5" combo flood/spot same 60 feet. It could be adjusted up a tad, but I didn't bring anything for tools. Tons of light though.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:22 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Rhino got some video of you. 6:30
Section8Krawlers Carnage Run Hollister Hills 3.2.2013 - YouTube
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Old 03-05-2013, 01:39 AM   #34 (permalink)
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)88 Ranger, 2.9liter,1350/1354 doubler, HP 60 with Plated knuckles, chromos, PSC Hydro, 3 link, Rear H072 44" Pitbulls on H1's
Section 8 Krawlers
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:20 AM   #35 (permalink)
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So George came over on Saturday to lend a hand with the rig. We pulled the t-case and swapped out case halves. The case that was in the rig had epoxy holding it together since last July. It was starting to leak so I figured it was time to swap it out.

Getting it ready to pull the t-case out


The old roof makes a great workbench


The epoxy and doubler along with some left over KOH dust


George going to town on the donor case


Parts



My Boxer about ready to snatch the pizza out of George's hand


I also got a set of seat sliders for the rig from Luke at Frontier 4x4. I can't wait to get these installed.
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:54 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Ready to go





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Old 04-22-2013, 06:45 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Great looking rig. Any chance of getting measurements of your 102" setup?
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:42 PM   #38 (permalink)
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When it was at 102 it was sitting on stock width Yota axles, Detroit lockers, 3.5 inch Deaver YJ springs with a couple of the removed, Celica steering box, 37" Boggers for a while then 37" Krawlers. If there is something else you need to know let me know and I'll see what I can remember.
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Old 04-23-2013, 06:42 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I was assuming it was four linked at 102" but thank you for your detailed reply.
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:57 PM   #40 (permalink)
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I was assuming it was four linked at 102" but thank you for your detailed reply.
No problem. When it got linked it went to 110"
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:41 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Video from a few weeks ago out at Hollister Hills.

Going throught the last section at Hollister Hills - YouTube

Backwards through the middle section at Hollister hills part 1 - YouTube
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:21 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Here is the full brake write up

So here is the deal with the brakes. When I added the disk brakes on the rear they got better, but I didn't have enough master cylinder. SO I researched what the Samurai guys have been doing an chose to upgrade to a Subaru Legacy Master. Stock was 3/4 bore the Subaru is 1 1/16. The brakes got better, but I found that I didn't have the braking force to hold the rig on some of the stoopid climbs and descents at comps. I had the traction, but the tires would just continue to roll. So I started to do some more research and found that I went too large with the master cylinder. The larger MC moves more fluid, but generates less pressure. Now there are two ways to fix that. One is to switch to a smaller MC or two is to increase the size of the wheel cylinders. I chose to go with the later and if it's still not good enough at that point, then mess with the MC again.

Now there are a bunch of options for upgrading Toyota solid axle brakes. One is to switch to FJ40 rotors and calipers. This is the most common upgrade that most people do. I decided to skip all the options in the middle and go for the biggest thing I can get on there.

List of parts to swap stock Toyota solid axle calipers and rotors to 04-06 Toyota Tundra calipers and rotors.

One set of 86-95 Toyota IFS bearing hubs.


One pair of 2004-2006 Toyota Tundra rotors. You can pick whatever style you want I chose to go with some drilled and slotted rotors because the price was right and the were available.


Here is a photo of the new rotors sitting on top of the old solid rotors.


One pair of 2004-2006 Toyota Tundra calipers. I chose to go with a set original Toyota 13WL calipers. These are the 231MM calipers. The earlier Tundra calipers were 199mm. either one will work, but a different spacer (shown later) will need to be used. Here is a photo showing the difference in size compared to the stock calipers.


One set of 2004-2006 brake pads. I went with some Hawk pads I have always liked.



One set of the Tacoma brake kit from FROF
With the Tundra rotors you need a 1/8" spacer along with the kit. It's not listed on the site, but you can call and order it with it. I chose just to make my own.
Front Range Off-Road Fabrication




Dis-assembly is fairly straight forward. Remove your hub or drive flange, remove the spindle nut and remove the old brake assembly.


Now it's time to start bolting the new stuff on. I re-used my wheel bearings in the IFS spindle. Remove the bolts holding onto the spindle. The outer seal will not be re-used. Bolt the caliper bracket where this seal was mounted. With the trail gear knuckles I had to cut one set of ears off the knuckles. With the stock knuckles you will need to switch them from left to right. In these photos I am mounting the caliper on the front just to make sure everything fit. after fit up, I switched my knuckles. The O.D. will need to be turned or ground down to around 6.7" dia to allow the rotor to slide on.




Next slip the rotor on and bolt the caliper onto the bracket. Makes sure to shim the caliper with the 1/8" shims if you didn't purchase the shim from FROF.
These photos were after I fit tested everything and swapped the knuckles so the calipers will be in the back. Just an FYI my tie rod is also on the back side.






Now this is a great brake upgrade. Another benefit of this upgrade is when you brake a birf or axle.
1)Remove the dust cap on the drive flange, or the outer locking knob on a regular hub
2)Remove the outer snap ring.
3)unbolt the caliper and hang it out of the way.
4)remove the rotor. This just falls right off
5)unbolt the spindle studs
POW your in and changing parts.
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:26 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Nice set up
Wish I woulda done some more research before I throw the FJ brakes on mine.
Are you still using the GM brakes in the rear?
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Old 06-03-2013, 01:26 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Put a nice clean hood on it Saturday. Then found out that both of my propane tanks have been recalled, and I'm ass out. No refund or exchange. Fawk! Needless to say I didn't do chit on it after that.

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Old 08-26-2013, 03:10 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Nice set up
Wish I woulda done some more research before I throw the FJ brakes on mine.
Are you still using the GM brakes in the rear?
Sorry looks like I missed this. Yes I am still running the Trail Gear rear brake kit, although I have been wanting to upgrade them as well to the same Tundra brakes as the front. I have just been too lazy.
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Old 08-26-2013, 03:22 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Haven't updated this thread in a while. I took the rig up to the Rubicon for the Zukafari in July.



When I got back I bought a Set of PRP Podium seats and PRP 5.3 belts.


Then I also upgraded my original 1.3 with a used Lee Built Stage 2 1.3 that I got a good deal on.


Pulled the old one


And installed the new one.


I also replaced the slightly worn exhaust.


After all that I took the rig up to Fordyce for Sierra Trek. The rig ran like a champ all weekend.



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Last edited by Blue Devil Toyota; 10-23-2013 at 12:57 PM.
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Old 08-26-2013, 03:55 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Cool Rig!
Jake
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Old 08-26-2013, 03:59 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Cool Rig!
Jake
Thanks
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Old 08-26-2013, 05:00 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Sweet little rig.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:05 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Sweet little rig.
Thank You
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