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Old 09-23-2013, 12:08 PM   #51 (permalink)
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So I got the rig pinched bad on WH3 at Sierra Trek and heard some popping in the front. I wheeled the rest of the weekend with no problems. A few weeks ago I installed a TK1 sway bar in the rear and took the rig out testing at Hollister. The testing lasted about 5 min till the front end completely let go. So it was time to take it apart. Ont of the nice things about the Tundra brake swap I did a while back is now I get to see how easy it is to take apart.



First thing is to remove the tire and the 2 bolts hold the brake caliper on. Then hang it somewhere out of the way.


Slide off the brake rotor.


In my case remove the drive flange dust cap and snap ring. If your running hub is would be the outer dial and snap ring.


Remove the 8 spindle bolts and the entire bearing housing comes off. Then you can pull the birf and axle.




This is all I had to remove. No need to mess with the steering arm, or wiper seals.


The Trail Gear Dirty 30's looked good as new.


Ring gear not so good. This was a Superior Gear and Axle set. I have had good luck with these gears, but they are out of business now.


Ordered my new parts up through Luke @ Frontier 4x4. Parts were delivered the next day. I decided I was going to give the Trail Gear ring and pinions a shot.
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Old 09-23-2013, 03:18 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Tick Tock! Better hurry up!
Good luck this weekend!
Jake
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:05 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Tick Tock! Better hurry up!
Good luck this weekend!
Jake
Thanks, but I'm not going to make it to Nationals this year, $$ is just way to tight. Going to finish up a bunch of stuff on the rig and run the full series next year.
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:36 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Cut a hole in the housing to make it easier to fill.



Plugged the hole with one of these.


Picked up my 3rd member from a friend of mine. Loaded with Trail Gear 5:29 gears that I picked up through Luke at Frontier 4x4.



Better shot of the slightly worn gear that was replaced.


Then managed to get the 3rd member installed and driveline hooked up.
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:13 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Nice build
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Old 10-08-2013, 11:20 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Nice build
Thanks
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Old 10-08-2013, 12:53 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Very nice build can't wait for more update
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:31 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Bump'n this thread so people start to get the word. Most of this rig will be up for sale starting Nov 11th. I have one last trip of the year.

List of what I know for sure
Complete front axle see this thread for specs
Engine Lee Built Stage 2 1.3 w/got propane system tanks are available for pick up
Link to photos of the engine build
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...8890036&type=3
Trans stock
T-case new heavy duty front output, Rock 4x twin sticks, Trail Tough rear drive live disconnect.
Possibly the chassis

PM me if your interested.


I'll throw some recent photos in for now. I broke the front output on the t-case my last trip out. So to get the t-case out I need to pull the seats and floor. While they are out I'm taking some time to move a few other things around. Mounting the stereo amp in the dash so it is our of the elements. If I get motivated enough I'm also going to build a sub box into the dash and have the sub downward firing. By moving the sub box it will allow me to move both the seats back a couple of inches to make for some more leg room.

New output shaft


Poor sub has gone through hell.


Doing some t-case work
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:07 PM   #59 (permalink)
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What brought the part out on? Are you gonna build a new rig?
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:20 PM   #60 (permalink)
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What brought the part out on? Are you gonna build a new rig?
Yep going to build something slightly faster. After attending a few Nor-Cal rock races, I have the bug to do it. I don't have the $$ to build a 4400 rig. Most likely something for the sportsman or Mod class.
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Old 11-05-2013, 08:36 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Which manifold/header are you running? Mine has a pacesetter long tube that is preventing a sweet spot for mounting a link on the inside. The Clayton 3 link that's on it works fine, but I'd like to lower the front and can't with the clayton kit.
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:46 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Which manifold/header are you running? Mine has a pacesetter long tube that is preventing a sweet spot for mounting a link on the inside. The Clayton 3 link that's on it works fine, but I'd like to lower the front and can't with the clayton kit.
Stock manifold. There is no way I could fit an after market header and the upper link.
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Old 11-06-2013, 12:16 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Stock manifold. There is no way I could fit an after market header and the upper link.
I'm noticing that as well. My 3rd link is on the outside of the frame and would hit everything if I went any lower. And the header is in the way of trying to run a 4 link, or moving it inside the frame. Thanks for the quick help. Any reason you decided not to run it on the passenger side?
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Old 11-06-2013, 03:16 PM   #64 (permalink)
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I'm noticing that as well. My 3rd link is on the outside of the frame and would hit everything if I went any lower. And the header is in the way of trying to run a 4 link, or moving it inside the frame. Thanks for the quick help. Any reason you decided not to run it on the passenger side?
Driveline
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Old 11-06-2013, 03:46 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Also, I saw where you replaced the exhaust, but never mentioned with what. Mine has some ricer tip and is annoying after an hour or two on the trail. Would like something quieter, but have a decemt sound. Your videos don't seem annoying like mine is.
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:28 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Basically running a 2" long piece of flex pipe just after the stock manifold, then a few feet of 1 3/4" pipe to a MagnaFlow muffler, and a short turn down, but angled more towards the side than down.

Mufler

Sound is ice and somewhat quiet. I get a bunch of people that comment on how quiet it is. This video is the old mufler, but the new one is just slightly louder. I may get some video of it this weekend.

Going throught the last section at Hollister Hills - YouTube
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:31 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Driveline
It's actually a little more than just the drive line. On the passenger side I also have the diff, and have all my steering behind the axle as well. There is just a bunch less stuff on the driver side.
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:35 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Thank you, a new video would be nice.
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Old 11-20-2013, 12:28 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Thank you, a new video would be nice.
Sorry, took me a couple of weeks to download one of the vids. Here you can hear the exhaust.

One of the any times I tried making WH3 @ Fordyce November 2013 - YouTube
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Old 11-22-2013, 07:59 PM   #70 (permalink)
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I like that much better thanks. Poor camera man...
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Old 12-30-2013, 03:57 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Old 12-31-2013, 04:46 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Nice buggy

I see you are running the sami T-Case. How is it going, strenghwise ?

I'm planning a build and can make myself to the idea of running this tiny case with tons and 40"...

People keep saying me no problem, but, you know...

I absolutely hate breakage.

Thanks
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Old 12-31-2013, 06:24 AM   #73 (permalink)
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Nice buggy

I see you are running the sami T-Case. How is it going, strenghwise ?

I'm planning a build and can make myself to the idea of running this tiny case with tons and 40"...

People keep saying me no problem, but, you know...

I absolutely hate breakage.

Thanks
I don't know how anyone can make this case last behind anything other than a 1.3. I have broke 7 or 8 back half of the cases, 2 of the front of the cases, 4 front output shafts. That being said I get it in all kinds of situations. Most of those breaks were with the original high mile engine. I think if your easy on things it could work with more power, but not for me. There have been 2 things with this rig that have frustrated me one of them is breaking the t-case, and the other is the front r&p.
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Old 12-31-2013, 07:27 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Toy axles were a no no to me as the R&P are so small...

So, no sami T-Case either... I'm leaning towards a Dana300 and a LoMax gearset but I'm affraid that even with 5,43 in the axles it won't be low enough... And Toy cases are rare were I live...

All I have to buy now is a 5.0 atlas, right ? Damn !

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Old 12-31-2013, 08:16 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Toy axles were a no no to me as the R&P are so small...

So, no sami T-Case either... I'm leaning towards a Dana300 and a LoMax gearset but I'm affraid that even with 5,43 in the axles it won't be low enough... And Toy cases are rare were I live...

All I have to buy now is a 5.0 atlas, right ? Damn !
Are you still running the Samurai engine? I'm not sure what kind of wheeling you do, but for crawling a Dana 300 with the 4:1 is not going to do it. I considered a 5:1 Atlas at one point.It would be nice for a little more wheel speed, but not low enough for real technical stuff. Plus it does not have any reduction in high range. A 4speed Atlas would work great, but they don't offer it in a divorced option like the standard 2 speed. I'm sure someone could make a adapter though. Here is a good calculator for playing with all the numbers. It allows you to change everything and see what it will look like. From my experience I think 100:1-130:1 is a good range for the stock engine.

Suzuki Samurai Gear Calculator
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