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Old 09-16-2015, 11:03 AM   #1 (permalink)
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tracker hack

Onesickpuppy was one of the guys who got me thinking about suzuki/toyota stuff, and I like his build/thread so what the heck, thought I'd throw this into the mix.

Making some progress so time to post it up. Drove this home from Vic last summer: 2wd 250k leaks oil like a sieve, ran pretty good on the way home. Straight and rust free, ready for the sawzall.



Picked up the standard toy crap and a sami tcase. Did a bunch of measuring and planning, chopped it up some, here's where I'm at.

Cut the front frame off, inboarded some 2x4 tube to get the toy IFS steering box inboard a bit, got the front links tacked in and ready for some 14" air shocks eventually, coils and shocks for now.



Front and rear lower link mounts are inboard of the frame rails, rears aren't in yet, but I wanted the links nice and flat while staying as low as possible, didn't want link mounts hanging off the frame.



full bump with the 33s, these are not the tires I chose for this project, they are leftovers bought for a street TJ that got sold. 35s are the target for this thing, maybe 37s a few years down the road.



few more full bump shots, the upper link is just shy of the alternator when both sides are at bump, the track bar passes just in front of the front pulley. Marlin high steer setup.





Stock rad with taurus fan will fit well, raised and angled back a bit from stock location so the lower outlet still clears the drag link at bump. Winch will mount as low as possible out front and winch mount will tie in the frame/reinforce the steering box mounts.

Last edited by mossdawg; 09-16-2015 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 09-16-2015, 11:05 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The engine is dropped down 2" and moved back 1". I did this to improve the output angle to the sami tcase so I could run the intermediate shaft nice and straight. lowers the CG a bit too, but it was mostly to improve the driveline angle otherwise the sami case would have dropped below the frame rails. This lets me have a flat skid across the frame. Got another sami case with 4.3:1 gears that will be going in, this is a stock case I grabbed.





Pics always look wierd, but the tranny output and the sami input are lined up well. I have left about 8" of tube in the intermediate shaft to play with if the powertrain changes. This might give me the option to run a longer engine/tranny combo down the road without re-working the tcase/driveshafts/link mounts. Will just need to further shorten the sami intermediate shaft.



The remains of the front clip are just holding the hood for now, have to run the a-pillar hoops before I cut it out and put a hood hoop in.
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Old 09-16-2015, 11:12 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Here's where its at now: its a roller again, sitting on coils, no shocks yet, still mostly tacked together but the front end is partly done. One of the doors is hacked to fit.

Boatsided, hacked about 4" off the bottom of the door, hope I can shorten the window regulator and still roll the glass down most of the way. Doors will be off for most trails anyways.

Sitting on stock junkyard rear 4-door tracker coils in the front, the original rear coils in the rear. 12" 5125s for the front and 14" for the rear are sitting in the garage. I like the height, but worried the front coils are way too soft, looking for other options that will keep it low, fit the stock buckets that I have reused.







Trying to keep it streetable to get to/from trails, and comfortable enough for backcountry camping, so I'm compromising by not going full tube buggy/truggy. Also want to maintain the ability for a rear hard top to still fit for camping/snow wheeling/easy trail runs. I might even air condition the little bastard at some point.

Next is more cage work and t-case mount. Tons of welding and gusseting to do everywhere. Cage will get an x on the top, will bolt through the body to an x behind the seats, gusseted a pillar, tie across the b pillars behind the seats, and braced from the seat crossbar to the floor just inside the doors. Been watching video of some ugly rolls on our local trails.

Last edited by mossdawg; 09-16-2015 at 11:22 AM.
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Old 09-16-2015, 03:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I like where your going with this. Some of it is standard fare for these, but guys don't seem to document it, they just do it.

I'm gearing up to work on mine soon, I hadn't thought about boatsiding it.
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Looks cool. Keep up the good work.

Too bad you're on the Island...



One thing I kind of don't get is the panhard and drag link relation.

Looks like your panhard could use a couple of inches of drop on the frame side.

It may be just the pic angles fucking with my perception as it's not super clear to see.

The one pic of the "flex shot" certainly spells bumpsteer. Not good for a street rig.
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Old 09-17-2015, 05:15 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Can you get some pictures of your link and spring mounts? I just got my 11 year old twins a tracker and plan on doing something like this over the winter.
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Old 09-17-2015, 10:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Awesome looking trackick!!! You going to be at islandcup in a few weeks?
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Old 09-20-2015, 08:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Looks cool. Keep up the good work.

Too bad you're on the Island...



One thing I kind of don't get is the panhard and drag link relation.

Looks like your panhard could use a couple of inches of drop on the frame side.

It may be just the pic angles fucking with my perception as it's not super clear to see.

The one pic of the "flex shot" certainly spells bumpsteer. Not good for a street rig.
Not sure what you mean. At ride height, panhard and drag link are level. Length is within a quarter inch. will post up some more pics later in the week.

edit: I think you're talking about the one with the wheel cranked hard passenger, this raises the drag link due to the caster angle, with wheel straight should be OK. Okay, camber angle, not caster...

Here's one with the wheel cranked back, you can see the track bar and drag link line up, although now the knuckle end of the drag link is low due to being cranked hard driver.


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Old 09-21-2015, 09:25 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Can you get some pictures of your link and spring mounts? I just got my 11 year old twins a tracker and plan on doing something like this over the winter.
Will snap some for ya this weekend. I cut the coil buckets and mounts off the stock tracker at both ends and re-used them, plasma cut the coil locations out of the front lower control arms to make a quick coil mount. I still need to brace directly above where the bumpstops are and gusset the mounts at the axles, but will show you what I did.

Quicker and easier way to go is to use leafs up front, I got stuck on the idea of links to get it lower but in the long run, a quick sas up front with leafs and long-arm rear is probably the best way to get wheeling quickly if anyone is looking to cut into one of these.
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Old 10-21-2015, 04:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The hack continues. Trash pile keeps growing:



Some more tube work done, a harness bar will go horizontally between the b pillars through existing body holes, and a triangle "A" will come up behind the seats to meet these top braces and bolt through the body tin:



front shocks located:



Stock radiator with taurus fan will fit, bottom outlet sits clears drag link at full bump, will need some rollover protection to keep the top tank from breaking if something punches the hood in...



Clamping the light covers on is kind of stupid, but that's how I roll. Getting to the "project fatigue" stage, but still plugging away...

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Old 10-27-2015, 07:52 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Hey, that's looking pretty good for a tracker! You've un-kicked it well. Front clip looks great.
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Old 01-12-2016, 06:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Progress is slow, but more cage welding has happened, and I have the t-case cradle done-ish:



Made the tabs large, then filled in with sch. 40 1" pipe for structure and cut the excess off the tabs.





My engine is dropped 2" from stock, improving the angle a bunch, and allowing a straight intermediate shaft while keeping the case well up between the frame rails for a flat belly.





May add a couple plate gussets to stiffen it up, but it should be OK for the 70HP or whatever the beat-to-death 8V will be putting out...

Last edited by mossdawg; 01-12-2016 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:12 PM   #13 (permalink)
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What a cool looking rig. I miss mine. Doing the 2x4 or 6 is the way to go when building. Mine leaked like a siv. No matter how much I sealed stuff.

I might just have to build one of these again some day. Keep it up. I will be watching.
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:16 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Old 01-19-2016, 12:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Looking good. I like the reused coil buckets and the Sammy tcase. This was a 4wd right? So dual cases? Subscribed.
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:59 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Looking good. I like the reused coil buckets and the Sammy tcase. This was a 4wd right? So dual cases? Subscribed.
Started as 2wd, stock 5spd, sami case with 4.3 gears to go in. Will wheel it for now, collect built 5.29 or 4.88 thirds as they come up on the local boards or c/l.

Coil setup re-using the junk I sawed off the frame is just a time saver. Not really all that strong, but the final plan is air shocks at both ends so the mounts will get the sawzall anyway.

Coils are sitting at a good ride height, but they are short, will have to figure out how to retain them but let them droop. Thinking bolted at the axle and some strap up top that will allow the coil to drop down but not clear the bumpstop and fall out... figure it out later. Driveshafts and some more welding next.

Nuther earlier couple pics with less tube work done that shows working ride height, will settle a bit more with fuel, more tube, battery, etc. added in. About 17" to belly on 33s, lower control arms inboard of frame rails, hopefully it will slide around well on the belly:




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Old 01-20-2016, 07:10 AM   #17 (permalink)
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That is looking great. Simple lines and clean....
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Old 01-20-2016, 08:22 AM   #18 (permalink)
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^ what he said!
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Old 01-20-2016, 02:24 PM   #19 (permalink)
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A buddy of mine did what he calls basically missing links for Coils. The lower coil mount has two round plates that bolt to the bottom coil with nylocks and the bolt goes down into the mount about 4". So under droop it drops away, but stays aligned. The top of the coil is retained by a simple hold down. I have a 2wd kick I'm tempted to throw a Sammy tcase in.
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Old 01-20-2016, 05:21 PM   #20 (permalink)
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A buddy of mine did what he calls basically missing links for Coils. The lower coil mount has two round plates that bolt to the bottom coil with nylocks and the bolt goes down into the mount about 4". So under droop it drops away, but stays aligned. The top of the coil is retained by a simple hold down. I have a 2wd kick I'm tempted to throw a Sammy tcase in.
Thanks for the coil retaining ideas. Once this thing is a runner I'll be able to figure something out.

You should build your 2wd, the sami case is a good match. I will be cutting the slip yoke from the stock 2wd driveshaft- it looks like the diameter of the yoke is the same as the sami intermediate shaft so I hope to hack off the sami shaft and pop the tracker end on it. You can use the sami shaft and just shorten it, but you need a different seal for the tranny output as the splines are the same but the sami OD is smaller. Not a big deal, google will know what the smaller seal is.

I think we are going to see more builds with this trackick junk. Not too many samis around anymore, especially with clean title if you want to build a streetable rig. Trackicks are kinda wide though, about the same as a yota, so I sometimes wonder why I didn't just pick up a yota and build that... or dig a little deeper for a sami.

I guess this thing will end up a bit lighter, but then again it will have less power potential than the 22r. I try not to think too much about why I started this and not another YJ or a toyota, just want to finish it and wheel.

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Old 01-20-2016, 06:54 PM   #21 (permalink)
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another option for the coils is to retain them on the bottom and have the bump stop un the middle on the top long enough to keep the coil lined up when you droop
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Old 01-20-2016, 08:36 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Only problem with that setup:


They don't make ramps long enough to fully flex it out:

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 01-21-2016, 09:04 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MudKick View Post
Only problem with that setup:


They don't make ramps long enough to fully flex it out:

[IMG][/IMG]
What is that a 10 degree ramp? Fake flex is useless.....
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Old 01-21-2016, 09:16 AM   #24 (permalink)
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It's a 20 degree...

Yes, I flexed it like it was 2005! Back then this was all the rage.



Here is some more awesome old school fakeness for ya.... Even earlier, prior to the body makeover.

This is on top of a mountain on Vancouver Island and more colour appropriate for the Original Poster....




PS. Sorry for the sidetrack.
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Old 01-24-2016, 09:09 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Aren't the u joints the same from the tracker to the Samurai? I was thinking you should be able to use the tracker slip yoke on the samurai intermediate shafts pretty easily.
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