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Old 03-10-2019, 03:29 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Random tidbit that may save you some headache later on...
Not sure what year your 2dr is but you cant gear an 89 or older sidekick case. Everything appears the same but the case is just a tiny bit thinner in the area you have to grind out to accept the larger gears.
Good to know

I'm planning on using the 4 door case behind the 3spd. Brent said it will bolt up, but has different rear out put splines and the electronic speed sensor.

Would you want to part with your 2 door? Or at least the 3spd? Wilson is still kind of looking for one for his Sami.

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Old 03-10-2019, 07:43 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Good to know

I'm planning on using the 4 door case behind the 3spd. Brent said it will bolt up, but has different rear out put splines and the electronic speed sensor.

Would you want to part with your 2 door? Or at least the 3spd? Wilson is still kind of looking for one for his Sami.


I'm saving it for the 3spd and power steering for my little samurai
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Old 03-10-2019, 08:21 PM   #53 (permalink)
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I'm saving it for the 3spd and power steering for my little samurai
I thought you were dropping the 2.0 in? Would it be easier to just use the 4spd with the 2.0 then?

You can have all the power steering stuff from my 2 door if you don't want to tear that one apart.
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Old 03-12-2019, 11:51 AM   #54 (permalink)
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I thought you were dropping the 2.0 in? Would it be easier to just use the 4spd with the 2.0 then?

You can have all the power steering stuff from my 2 door if you don't want to tear that one apart.

Really no idea right now, haha. But orrigonal plan was 3spd behind the 1.6 that's already in the sami but who knows. I have a house to build
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89 and carbed with a 4 speed. That's like saying the hooker was great, but she had a penis and herpes.
Wait, you Toyota fags are into that.
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Old 03-13-2019, 09:22 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Really no idea right now, haha. But orrigonal plan was 3spd behind the 1.6 that's already in the sami but who knows. I have a house to build
Speaking of that, let me know if you need that ecu. I can throw it in a flat rate box.
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Old 03-14-2019, 03:12 PM   #56 (permalink)
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If your not building the 2dr I'd like it back.

On another note it would be cool if you did a good writeup with pictures and details on the hagen mod and getting the CVS to work. I dont think all of the info exists in 1 easy to follow spot.
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89 and carbed with a 4 speed. That's like saying the hooker was great, but she had a penis and herpes.
Wait, you Toyota fags are into that.
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Old 03-15-2019, 04:45 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 2big bronco View Post
If your not building the 2dr I'd like it back.

On another note it would be cool if you did a good writeup with pictures and details on the hagen mod and getting the CVS to work. I dont think all of the info exists in 1 easy to follow spot.
X2.

Some of it did on izook, but that site is likely dead now.


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Old 03-15-2019, 05:12 PM   #58 (permalink)
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If your not building the 2dr I'd like it back.

On another note it would be cool if you did a good writeup with pictures and details on the hagen mod and getting the CVS to work. I dont think all of the info exists in 1 easy to follow spot.
OK, just text me your address and I'll get it in a flat rate box.

The kit showed up yesterday, machine work looks very nice, packaged nice, looked very complete and even had easy to follow instructions.

I actually got 2 days off this week so I'm hoping to get a bunch done at least one day.

I did also find a local source for good used cv's, I guess I need the hubs also, for some reason I thought the suzuki hubs were the same splines.
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Old 03-15-2019, 09:01 PM   #59 (permalink)
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OK, just text me your address and I'll get it in a flat rate box.

The kit showed up yesterday, machine work looks very nice, packaged nice, looked very complete and even had easy to follow instructions.

I actually got 2 days off this week so I'm hoping to get a bunch done at least one day.

I did also find a local source for good used cv's, I guess I need the hubs also, for some reason I thought the suzuki hubs were the same splines.

Yes, stock hubs should work
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89 and carbed with a 4 speed. That's like saying the hooker was great, but she had a penis and herpes.
Wait, you Toyota fags are into that.
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Old 03-15-2019, 09:28 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Yes, stock hubs should work
That's what I thought, but the directions say that I need Toyota locking hubs.
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Old 03-16-2019, 09:54 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Toyota cv's do NOT fit the suzuki hubs. The Toyota stub is just slightly bigger Iirc toy is 27 spline and zuk is 26. The hub bodies and dials are the same though.

Edit: I realized that I checked the Toyota cv's to the 2 door hubs, but not the flanges on the 4 door. Maybe they are bigger?

I picked up 2 good used factory cv's, 1 aftermarket one that looked like it had never been installed, 2 Toyota hubs and 1 lock out for $90, so that was cool.

Got the trans and tcase in. It's funny how you can bolt a 1990 auto trans between the 1999 engine and tcase that was a 5 spd, with only a slight mod and spacer between the flex plate and converter.

The 3 spd auto is about 1.5" shorter than the 5spd. Luckily the front drive line from the 2 door will work. For the rear I'll probably just order a spacer. I know they are kinda ghetto, but lots of people use them without issue. I would just have the driveline retubed, but since the tubing has a bell on each end. The OD of the ends is only like 1.5"

I think I might try to button up the trans swap and put everything together to make sure that it drives OK before doing all the front end work.

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Old 03-17-2019, 07:36 AM   #62 (permalink)
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With the correct bolts I've never had an issue with the spacers at all. Pretty sure I've ran spacers on all my zuki rides. The front tube has a cardboard core for some reason and it couldn't be easily retubed when I put the Sammy t-case in my 2 door, so I just ran a spacer on each end to make up the difference and it works just fine.
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:01 AM   #63 (permalink)
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With the correct bolts I've never had an issue with the spacers at all. Pretty sure I've ran spacers on all my zuki rides. The front tube has a cardboard core for some reason and it couldn't be easily retubed when I put the Sammy t-case in my 2 door, so I just ran a spacer on each end to make up the difference and it works just fine.
Front Sami drive shaft? Track kicks are slip yoke front and rear
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:35 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Front Sami drive shaft? Track kicks are slip yoke front and rear
Yes, I had to build a hybrid. The samurai shaft is to short on its own, and obviously the tracker shaft won't work. So I had the slip spline from the samurai front shaft machined down to fit the ID of the tracker tube. Even leaving the tracker tube full length It ended up an inch short. So I used two 1/2" spacers, one on each end to make it have enough spline engagement to make me feel warm and fuzzy.
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Old 03-17-2019, 09:29 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Yes, I had to build a hybrid. The samurai shaft is to short on its own, and obviously the tracker shaft won't work. So I had the slip spline from the samurai front shaft machined down to fit the ID of the tracker tube. Even leaving the tracker tube full length It ended up an inch short. So I used two 1/2" spacers, one on each end to make it have enough spline engagement to make me feel warm and fuzzy.
Gotcha.

Everything I see says either 86-89 or 90-95. I assume that my 99 is the same as the 90-95?

Edit: my 90 2 door has the same driveline pattern as the 99 4door. I'm not sure why they are designating 90-95 instead of 90+

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Old 03-17-2019, 10:19 AM   #66 (permalink)
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Some kind of wannabe sxs build (side by sidekick?)

The long side inner axle will be your next weak point with the Toyota cv mod. Cycle that suspension after the Hagen mod, some guys still donít have enough room on the pass side due to how deep they make the stub adapter.

Otherwise I love the kit.

Also, 03+ is not a sure thing to for a steel front diff. Manual gv or xl7 will have a steel front diff. Some xl7 04-05 have steel front diffs but gv auto 03+ wonít have them. If they do, it was swapped in. I scowered alot of junk yards following the 03+ info and it never added up.

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Old 03-17-2019, 03:24 PM   #67 (permalink)
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The long side inner axle will be your next weak point with the Toyota cv mod. Cycle that suspension after the Hagen mod, some guys still donít have enough room on the pass side due to how deep they make the stub adapter.

Otherwise I love the kit.

Also, 03+ is not a sure thing to for a steel front diff. Manual gv or xl7 will have a steel front diff. Some xl7 04-05 have steel front diffs but gv auto 03+ wonít have them. If they do, it was swapped in. I scowered alot of junk yards following the 03+ info and it never added up.
Good to know, I'm not planning on full on wheelin this thing, but who knows. I just liked the Toyota cv idea since I'll be doing the hegan mod anyway.

Funny you mention the front diff, I was under there today, spinning the front driveshaft and noticed that the tires weren't spinning. Spin the tires and they seem totally disconnected from each other and the driveshaft, yet no noise or drag I'm 99% sure that the 4wd worked fine the little I drove it around. Do these have some kind of disconnect that I can't see?

So if I call wrecking yards what do I ask for? Did the make the housing and 3rd steel at the same time or do some have one and not the other?
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Old 03-17-2019, 04:29 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Modified the crossmember for the ~1.5" shorter trans.





The auto shifter almost bolted up to the 5spd boot holes. The holes were the same width but the auto shifter was a little longer, I just notched the front of the hole about 3/4" and used some extra factory self trappers. Tcase shift boot worked fine, it gets a little close to the auto shifter in 2 high but clears.

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Old 03-17-2019, 05:17 PM   #69 (permalink)
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I'm posative the 4wd worked in that thing. Does that one have the fancy auto locking hubs? I dont remember.
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89 and carbed with a 4 speed. That's like saying the hooker was great, but she had a penis and herpes.
Wait, you Toyota fags are into that.
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Old 03-17-2019, 06:52 PM   #70 (permalink)
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I'm posative the 4wd worked in that thing. Does that one have the fancy auto locking hubs? I dont remember.
No, flanges, and the cv's spin with the tires like they should. It's like the pinion is sheared perfectly or something
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Old 03-17-2019, 06:59 PM   #71 (permalink)
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It's like the pinion is sheared perfectly or something
Hope not. Haha. For your sake
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89 and carbed with a 4 speed. That's like saying the hooker was great, but she had a penis and herpes.
Wait, you Toyota fags are into that.
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:01 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Good to know, I'm not planning on full on wheelin this thing, but who knows. I just liked the Toyota cv idea since I'll be doing the hegan mod anyway.



Funny you mention the front diff, I was under there today, spinning the front driveshaft and noticed that the tires weren't spinning. Spin the tires and they seem totally disconnected from each other and the driveshaft, yet no noise or drag I'm 99% sure that the 4wd worked fine the little I drove it around. Do these have some kind of disconnect that I can't see?



So if I call wrecking yards what do I ask for? Did the make the housing and 3rd steel at the same time or do some have one and not the other?


Oh your building the 2nd gen now? I thought you were building the first gen till I saw your latest posts.

The Toyota cv conversion will not work without massive adjustments. The diff mounts hit horribly even if you do just the driver side stub shaft mod (the cvís from a Toyota hit even worse). Also the Hagen mod will make things worse trying to make the Toyota cvís fit. You will have to shift the diff to the driver side a bit as it is not centered after you put the stub shaft in. The driver side cv will not be long enough and the pass side will be too long. Also the bushings that come with the kit to hold the cv in the back of the spindle will not fit as Suzuki changed the bore diameter so you will have to make new bushings. Basically, you have a ton of work to make the toy cvís fit. Been there done that on my second gen.

As for calling the yards, wonít do you any good unless you get someone who actually has some smarts. I ordered 2 diffs off eBay because I was told ďthey are steelĒ. Showed up at my shop and they didnít pass the magnet test. Back they went. These were actual junk yards selling on eBay. At that point I just went to the u pick its but I actually found my current one on here. I did pull a second one from a friend in the JY not long after.

The front diff in these is air actuated. There is a bladder that inflates and engages the carrier to the ring gear. So turning one tire only turns one tire till you fill the bladder with air. You can not put a locker in one and the bladder is known to leak. You are better off swapping the carrier to a first gen or samurai (samurai will need machining). Then you can run a locker in there.
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:35 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Oh your building the 2nd gen now? I thought you were building the first gen till I saw your latest posts.

The Toyota cv conversion will not work without massive adjustments. The diff mounts hit horribly even if you do just the driver side stub shaft mod (the cvís from a Toyota hit even worse). Also the Hagen mod will make things worse trying to make the Toyota cvís fit. You will have to shift the diff to the driver side a bit as it is not centered after you put the stub shaft in. The driver side cv will not be long enough and the pass side will be too long. Also the bushings that come with the kit to hold the cv in the back of the spindle will not fit as Suzuki changed the bore diameter so you will have to make new bushings. Basically, you have a ton of work to make the toy cvís fit. Been there done that on my second gen.

As for calling the yards, wonít do you any good unless you get someone who actually has some smarts. I ordered 2 diffs off eBay because I was told ďthey are steelĒ. Showed up at my shop and they didnít pass the magnet test. Back they went. These were actual junk yards selling on eBay. At that point I just went to the u pick its but I actually found my current one on here. I did pull a second one from a friend in the JY not long after.

The front diff in these is air actuated. There is a bladder that inflates and engages the carrier to the ring gear. So turning one tire only turns one tire till you fill the bladder with air. You can not put a locker in one and the bladder is known to leak. You are better off swapping the carrier to a first gen or samurai (samurai will need machining). Then you can run a locker in there.


Well, thanks for the heads up. Guess I got $800-900 worth of useless parts in the garage. This stupid project has just gotten out of hand. I really wish I would have just gotten a cheap beater and thrown some tires and a rear spool on it.
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:37 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Sorry, didnít mean to be a Debbie downer. Your welcome to glance through my thread (the grand tracker) and see what Iíve been doing to make all that work. 2nd gens are a bitch since no one really makes shit for them
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Old 03-17-2019, 09:12 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Sorry, didn’t mean to be a Debbie downer. Your welcome to glance through my thread (the grand tracker) and see what I’ve been doing to make all that work. 2nd gens are a bitch since no one really makes shit for them
No worries, I'd rather know now than when I'm trying to put it together.

And honestly I'm a little pissed that the $500 locker and $350 Toyota cv kit I bought for this rig didn't specify that they wouldn't work with my rig.

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