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YotaAtieToo 03-19-2019 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44367538)
The cj wide track is not the same width as his current rear axle. Wide tracks are 56 wide. His rear is 60 as stated before

Are you positive they are 60"? Because I have a 3rd gen 4runner that is 60" wms and it looks huge compared to the zuk, both use deep back spaced wheels.

I guess I'll measure mine to be sure. :flipoff2:

2big bronco 03-20-2019 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44367220)
Maybe I'll just sell it back to you when I'm done :laughing:

If you get it locked front and rear on 32s with a steel diff and toyota CV shafts I'll have a hard time not buying it from you. Dont forget to fear the t-case for me

chevy1925 03-20-2019 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44367572)
Are you positive they are 60"? Because I have a 3rd gen 4runner that is 60" wms and it looks huge compared to the zuk, both use deep back spaced wheels.

I guess I'll measure mine to be sure. :flipoff2:

100%. ive measured my old axle many time when i was setting up my suspension program to dial in the link and shock placement. stock axle is 60" on 99-05 rear axles.

YotaAtieToo 03-20-2019 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44367868)
If you get it locked front and rear on 32s with a steel diff and toyota CV shafts I'll have a hard time not buying it from you. Dont forget to fear the t-case for me

We'll have to see, this thing would be a blast at Hollister hills

2big bronco 03-20-2019 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44367896)
We'll have to see, this thing would be a blast at Hollister hills

20 min from my house. I know every square inch of that place including some "hidden" spots/trails. Finish it and come down

YotaAtieToo 03-20-2019 02:12 PM

Does anyone know what triggers the front diff to engage? Is it the 4wd light or a vaccum line? I can't for the life of me find the wire that went to the 4wd sensor and there is a vaccum line looking thing that came out with the trans and tcase. It may also be the breather, not sure.

I would like to drive it around before I tear the front end apart as it sits right now I'm going to install the mini spool and coil spacers, then I'm just waiting for the driveline spacer, which should be here today.

chevy1925 03-20-2019 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44368394)
Does anyone know what triggers the front diff to engage? Is it the 4wd light or a vaccum line? I can't for the life of me find the wire that went to the 4wd sensor and there is a vaccum line looking thing that came out with the trans and tcase. It may also be the breather, not sure.

I would like to drive it around before I tear the front end apart as it sits right now I'm going to install the mini spool and coil spacers, then I'm just waiting for the driveline spacer, which should be here today.

4wd trigger on the t-case does it. the rubber line is just a breather. sensor triggers the ecm, ecm triggers 4wd light and air pump which engages the front diff carrier.

if you pull the air pump connection, 4wd will not illuminate. you have to jump 2 wires at the plug to make the light come on (forget what 2). obviously if you unplug it and you are still running the factory carrier, it wont engage either.

YotaAtieToo 03-20-2019 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44368442)
4wd trigger on the t-case does it. the rubber line is just a breather. sensor triggers the ecm, ecm triggers 4wd light and air pump which engages the front diff carrier.

if you pull the air pump connection, 4wd will not illuminate. you have to jump 2 wires at the plug to make the light come on (forget what 2). obviously if you unplug it and you are still running the factory carrier, it wont engage either.

I must have lost the 4wd light harness, I don't remember seeing it hanging down when the trans was out :confused:

I was thinking about wiring up a switch for the front end so I could have 2 low, but it's not really worth it if I'm going to put the locker in soon.

Also, I will say the rear bearing design is complete shit compared to a Toyota. I had to hammer the backing plate to get the bearing out, then hammer it back in, stud fell out, what a pain.

Also, it has 4.62s, not 5.13s :( 2big owes me big time now.

Actually, it's not a huge difference, plus the 2 door should be the same so I have spares.

YotaAtieToo 03-20-2019 10:40 PM

Got the shifters in, I thought I posted this, but didn't see the pics. The auto shifter almost lined up, the 2 rear holes worked, but the auto shifter was a little longer so I had to notch the tunnel a little and use self tap screws on the front 2 holes. Tcase shifter didnt move enough to really make a difference.

https://i.postimg.cc/MGbbF7pw/20190317-130533.jpg

Mounted the trans cooler, I used 2 hard mounts and 2 of those ghetto zip tie like deals that they come with, so it's only half ghetto :flipoff2:

https://i.postimg.cc/BvN1gQNQ/20190320-104958.jpg

Pit the coil spacers in, these were on the 2 door no idea what brand they are but the lip just didn't work, I ended up cutting it off all 4 of them. The rears were about 2.5" and the fronts were about 2" I think the front might be too much, it didn't move at all when I sent it down :laughing: I won't be messing with those things again with out a coil compressor, what a pain.

https://i.postimg.cc/N0Lrdvn6/20190320-153915.jpg

Finally sitting on its tires again, just waiting on my driveline spacer and I can test drive.

https://i.postimg.cc/X7pSN2t2/20190320-201814.jpg

2big bronco 03-21-2019 03:31 PM

I suppose I could walk outside and look at mine but how hard would it be to just make some new a-arm mounts that reach a little further out to get you the right width for the toy axles

YotaAtieToo 03-21-2019 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44369650)
I suppose I could walk outside and look at mine but how hard would it be to just make some new a-arm mounts that reach a little further out to get you the right width for the toy axles

That's where the hegan mod comes in. The problem is that the diff mounts are really close to the tiny stock cv's so they are in the way of the much larger Toyota cv's

I'm thinking about measuring the stock bushings and ordering some ruff stuff bushings to build new mounts.

YotaAtieToo 03-22-2019 10:54 AM

Driveline spacer came last night, but I'm trying to deal with the trailer. Came from out of state, so dmv wants to do a Vin verification. Well the manufacturer only put on a sticker, and not surprisingly, after 20 years you can read it :rolleyes: well I stamped the Vin in the frame and went back to dmv and said "oh, I found the vin"

Nope, have to go to CHP :shaking: what a joke.

2big bronco 03-22-2019 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44370592)
Driveline spacer came last night, but I'm trying to deal with the trailer. Came from out of state, so dmv wants to do a Vin verification. Well the manufacturer only put on a sticker, and not surprisingly, after 20 years you can read it :rolleyes: well I stamped the Vin in the frame and went back to dmv and said "oh, I found the vin"

Nope, have to go to CHP :shaking: what a joke.

What kind of asshole sold you an out of state trailer? I'll bet the sidekick didnt even come with a pink slip. Hopefully you didnt pay a penny over 1k for the pair :flipoff2:

YotaAtieToo 03-22-2019 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44370710)
What kind of asshole sold you an out of state trailer? I'll bet the sidekick didnt even come with a pink slip. Hopefully you didnt pay a penny over 1k for the pair :flipoff2:

The biggest asshole ever!

Suzuki was an easy change over.

Took her for a spin just now, it's running like total shit once it warms up. Like hit the gas and it just sputters. I thought maybe the muffler was plugged up with rat nests, so I unbolted the exhaust right before it, no change. I know the cat is good because I had it out for the trans swap.

It threw a cel too p0300 random misfire or multiple cylinder misfire(off to Google)

Any ideas?

It did it a little once before, I thought it was related to the alternator dying.

2big bronco 03-23-2019 02:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44371358)
The biggest asshole ever!

Suzuki was an easy change over.

Took her for a spin just now, it's running like total shit once it warms up. Like hit the gas and it just sputters. I thought maybe the muffler was plugged up with rat nests, so I unbolted the exhaust right before it, no change. I know the cat is good because I had it out for the trans swap.

It threw a cel too p0300 random misfire or multiple cylinder misfire(off to Google)

Any ideas?

It did it a little once before, I thought it was related to the alternator dying.


No idea it always ran great. Last trip was all the way to koh and back....... my guess is its somehow related to sitting for a year or rats chewed something. Old gas?

YotaAtieToo 03-23-2019 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44371992)
No idea it always ran great. Last trip was all the way to koh and back....... my guess is its somehow related to sitting for a year or rats chewed something. Old gas?

It's weird because it seems to run OK when it's cold, but once it's all the way warm it's terrible. Like it won't even move on flat ground and barely wants to start.

When I googled the code people said maybe coil packs, vacuum leak, egr or a few others. Egr makes the most sense to me since it's only once it's warm. But I wonder if I have more than one thing working against me. Maybe I'll start will filling it up with good gas and replacing the fuel filter.

YotaAtieToo 03-24-2019 04:20 PM

Filled the tank up with good gas and 2 bottles of fuel injector cleaner, changed the fuel filter and plugs, cleaned the map (I'm assuming, back of the intake manifold) and maf, plus unplugged the egr. Drove around for a few hours and it ran great. I plugged the egr in just now when I got back and it seemed to still run good, so maybe it was just a combination of all the other stuff making it run bad. I'll have to see next time I get a chance to drive around.

It's still not perfect though

Trans will sometimes not react with slight amount of throttle and then bang into gear, it will do this a few time then seem good.

Tires rub (obviously) the front isn't as bad as I thought, but will need attention before any real trails.

Shocks are too short front and rear, it's basically topped out just sitting there. Longer shocks for the rear are no big deal, I may space the bump stops down also to help with rubbing. I know they make spacers for the front, but I'm wondering if that's a bad idea with the stock cv's? They look pretty steep as it is.

It definitely needs way more gearing even low isn't really low enough for cruising down tight trails. High is OKish for the road but not great. Basically, exactly what I have been saying for a while is that a Sami case with ~1.6 high and 4.xx low would be perfect. It is tempting to just drop some 4.24 gears in the stock case and go. Sami cases are getting hard to find, plus I'd have to figure out drive shafts, source and intermediate shaft, a tcase mount, a trans mount, ect. But the use able high range might be worth it.

My 6 year old helped in the paint job a little more :laughing:

https://i.postimg.cc/J0m7nb8P/20190322-144312.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/KY6v66HX/20190324-120624.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/SK2xtSV7/20190324-121617.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/FzZrJ7sm/20190324-124645.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/qBXMFZcY/20190324-132936.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Kztvx061/20190324-132950.jpg

YotaAtieToo 03-25-2019 03:05 PM

Working a deal right now to get a 4.16 Sami case for this thing. I was hoping for 4.9s but I think it will work well for what I'm doing. If this thing progresses I'll just switch to a track kick doubler. In fact, I'm thinking about just mounting the sami case behind the stock case divorced and then just lop off the stock front out put and cap it. :laughing:

Probably not though. Just the Sami case would work perfectly. After driving on the road in low (1.8) its not bad, but anything over 30 its revving a little. So the 1.55 or so of the 4.16s should be great. Plus low is about 2.5 times lower, which should be plenty with the auto.

YotaAtieToo 03-25-2019 06:30 PM

https://i.postimg.cc/NFdMq0nN/20190325-164849.jpg

Went out for another hour or so with the egr plugged in and it ran great. Which is nice because I have to smog it to get it registered.

The tires are definitely bad ass for the wet slick shit, it's actually pretty hard to get them to spin. :laughing:

YotaAtieToo 03-25-2019 08:35 PM

So since you guys got my head all spinning on building a steel front diff, or at a minimum basically completely remounting what I have. I've thought about using the 2 door rear axle to build a front center, which would be cool.

But why not just use a Toyota ifs center?

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.pir...html%3Famp%3D1

They are everywhere, cheap and 4.56s weren't too un common in the 2nd Gen 4runner. The cv's would obviously bolt up, spartan lockers are available and cheap.

YotaAtieToo 03-26-2019 08:39 AM

I had another thought about this stupid diff..... :homer:

Remember when everyone was breaking Sami tcases? Then someone realized that you just needed to brace the case. I'm thinking about hard mounting the diff and adding as much bracing as I can. Now obviously the difference is that there are steel diffs available, which is just a better option, but I'm just curious as to how much the aluminum diff will take with some bracing.

chevy1925 03-26-2019 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44375480)
So since you guys got my head all spinning on building a steel front diff, or at a minimum basically completely remounting what I have. I've thought about using the 2 door rear axle to build a front center, which would be cool.

But why not just use a Toyota ifs center?

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.pir...html%3Famp%3D1

They are everywhere, cheap and 4.56s weren't too un common in the 2nd Gen 4runner. The cv's would obviously bolt up, spartan lockers are available and cheap.

i would have gone toy if they made 5.13 gears but 5.29 are too far apart to run high speed in 4wd and not break shit. i also didnt like the fact id spend all that time putting a new diff in only to gain .5 larger ring gear.

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44375954)
I had another thought about this stupid diff..... :homer:

Remember when everyone was breaking Sami tcases? Then someone realized that you just needed to brace the case. I'm thinking about hard mounting the diff and adding as much bracing as I can. Now obviously the difference is that there are steel diffs available, which is just a better option, but I'm just curious as to how much the aluminum diff will take with some bracing.

all you gotta do is brace the pinion. its strong till you have to back up and front end is in a bind, thats when the pinion mount breaks and shit gets floppy. ive seen guys strap the top of the pinion down to the other side of the frame and have no issues.

YotaAtieToo 03-26-2019 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44376132)
i would have gone toy if they made 5.13 gears but 5.29 are too far apart to run high speed in 4wd and not break shit. i also didnt like the fact id spend all that time putting a new diff in only to gain .5 larger ring gear.

I realize it's not s huge increase in strength. I have 4.62s in both rigs so a factory toy 4.56 diff would be perfect.

My thought was that if I have to redo all the mounts to move zuk diff and clear the Toyota cv's, just mounting up a different diff wouldn't be that big of a deal. Plus it already has the right cv flanges, so I could probably sell my adapters. The spartan is ~$250 instead of $550.

I already found a 4.10 diff for free that I could use for mock up. When you start thinking about trying to track down a steel vitara diff and 3rd then still be limited to the one $$$ locker, the Toyota diff makes more and more sense.


all you gotta do is brace the pinion. its strong till you have to back up and front end is in a bind, thats when the pinion mount breaks and shit gets floppy. ive seen guys strap the top of the pinion down to the other side of the frame and have no issues.

But...... This it what I'm thinking. Honestly, as it is, it will do 75% of what I want. I really just don't want to shred these tires on the firewall. So I may as well rework the front end and add a the locker I already have.

chevy1925 03-26-2019 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44376198)
But...... This it what I'm thinking. Honestly, as it is, it will do 75% of what I want. I really just don't want to shred these tires on the firewall. So I may as well rework the front end and add a the locker I already have.

i have a very bad case of "if im in there, lets over build". I did that with my samurai, worked well. i tried to do just enough on the tracker and its biting me in the ass so im back to the over building again. So it just comes down to what you feel is enough for ya. obviously guys can go well above what i did and put a damn currie 9" ifs diff in front with 934 cv and so on.

YotaAtieToo 03-26-2019 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44376326)
i have a very bad case of "if im in there, lets over build". I did that with my samurai, worked well. i tried to do just enough on the tracker and its biting me in the ass so im back to the over building again. So it just comes down to what you feel is enough for ya. obviously guys can go well above what i did and put a damn currie 9" ifs diff in front with 934 cv and so on.

I'm the same way. It served me well with my 4runner as I never had to get drug out of the woods or leave it over night or anything. Obviously stuff still breaks, but I think it was pretty reliable.

This rig just has a different goal. I don't plan to load up my whole family in it (I couldn't even if I wanted too :laughing: ) and take off to the middle of no where like I did in the 4runner. It's supposed just be a fun little rig to thrash around with and not care about. We have a 99 4runner on 33s with an elocker that will take us almost as many places as this rig, but all the trail around the property are over grown and the 4runner is too nice to drag through the brush.

For now I'm just going to screw with it as it is. I'm working on getting the Sami tcase and associated parts. I'm going to keep an eye out for a 4.56 diff. Once I get all the stuff for the Sami case together, I'll do the yota cv's and either modify the stock diff mounts or try to mount up a Toyota diff.


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